DLT's SR Locos - Lord Nelson Craftsman Kit

[Daddyman]

Like all things there are more than one way to skin cat. As you see from DLT's builds. I would never of used PCB unless making a master where you need bulk. But Dave uses it to great effect, and seeded some ideas for me on another project.

Agreed. Super thread you have, by the way: 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/100390-scratch-building-the-way-i-do-it/

[DLT]

By way of an extra illustration of PCB footplates, here are some photos of my 7mm-scale narrow gauge Single Fairlie.  Here the footplate is actually used as a circuitboard, with power from the rear bogie pickups transmitted through extra wipers to the footplate.  On this type of loco the footplate is stepped, and its made in two parts with the screws holding it together transmitting the power to the other side.

I THINK the photos are self-explanatory!

 

 

 

 

Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT

[jrg1]

Top marks for lateral thinking!

[Pebbles]

As I have had problems with PCB de-laminating, what solder do you use?

[DLT]

As I have had problems with PCB de-laminating, what solder do you use?

 

Are you using the fibreglass type?  Its WAY stronger than the old paxolin type.

I have had it de-laminating when using it for soldered track with hefty rail, but the demands on it for loco building are more in line with its intended use.  I use pretty normal solder for just about everything, only using low-melt when absolutely necessary.

Hope this helps,

Dave.

[jrg1]

You may find that Carr's 145 detailing solder useful for PCB soldering, possibly used with Orange label flux (Non-corrosive). 

[bigbadbadge]

_{Hi Dave}

 

_{Very nice indeed, great solution, I had never thought of using the Fibreglass backed PCB, may well have to look at that. The O2 looks great by the way.}

_{All the best
Chris} 

[DLT]

Back to the construction; my Highlevel order has arrived, and first job was the gearbox, a 60:1 Roadrunner-Plus, with a Mashima 1426 motor.

 

Highlevel have subtly changed their gearbox design, as I have described on this thread:  http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/48114-high-level-gearbox-assy/?p=2515345  

 

As this model is going to be DCC fitted, i need to make sure there's room for the Chip to be installed.  I don't know the size of the chip yet, but they seem to be getting smaller and smaller; so there should be plenty of space in the sidetanks, or even stuck on top of the motor.  Still, I think I need to start assembling the body before fixing the motor position, just to make sure!

 

 

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT

[DLT]

Here's tonights update.

I'm separating the body components by cutting and filing the footplate away, then making sure they are all square and correctly proportioned.

Splasher done, tank has had top and end soldered on, cab not looked at yet. I was hoping to use the tanks as they stood, but its looking increasingly like they will need a brass overlay, same as I intend doing with the cab.

 

 

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 5, 2022 by DLT

[DLT]

Sorry for recent lack of updates; lot of non-modelling activity in my household at the mo.

 

Anyway, back to the footplate.  Top surface in the process of being fixed in place.  I usually solder, but great care is needed not to heat up the metal strip too much, or  you can end up with a banana-shaped footplate due to differential expansion.  So tried Araldite this time, and clamping flat while drying.  Edges done, front and rear bits to add.

 

 

Cheers, Dave.

[DLT]

Footplate is finished, with buffer beams added, soldered to length of angle accross the ends of the PCB.  

Photos SHOULD be self explanatory!

 

 

 

 

Cheers,

Dave.

 

 

[DLT]

The top plate will of course be filed back to exact size.  Now at last i can get on with the bodywork.

Cheers, Dave.

[number6]

Splendid stuff. Do you save the measurements for these parts?

 

Not to detract from the impressive metalwork resting on it but I have always thought that we should have an exhibition of heavily worked cutting mats at Tate Modern or somewhere. Yours in particularly impressionistic.

[DLT]

Splendid stuff. Do you save the measurements for these parts?

 

Not to detract from the impressive metalwork resting on it but I have always thought that we should have an exhibition of heavily worked cutting mats at Tate Modern or somewhere. Yours in particularly impressionistic.

 

I guess my cutting mat has "seen a lot of action" over the years.  Its also been cleaned a few times, mainly to remove the lumps of glue and dried paint to restore its flatness.

 

I keep all the drawing/sketches etc from loco builds, this includes printouts of drawings and photos with my notes and dimensions etc written on.  It doesn't necessarily follow that I can remember what they mean if I refer back to them some time later though!

Perhaps I should be more careful about record keeping.

Cheers, Dave.

[Tony Teague]

Impressive work Dave!

[DLT]

Moving on to the boiler barrel, I was supplied with an appropriate part, the etched and rolled boiler from a C2X kit.  Unfortunately this had suffered from some over-enthusiastic packing at some point and was looking somewhat squashed.  

 

 

I managed to carefully open out the squashed bits and gave it a run through my GW Models rollers.  This restored the roundness almost perfectly.  I rolled it slightly undersize so it could be sprung open and would grip the brass discs that I filed up to fit the internal diameter.  These were soldered in and resulted in a very strong tube.  The lower rear section was then cut away where it fits between the sidetanks.

 

 

The smokebox front features a ring of rivets around the door, these were done by eye with a riveting punch, on a 16mm diameter scribed circle.  The PCB disc fits the internal diameter, these two will be soldered together before Aralditing into the smokebox front; and then the brass disc will be filed down to the right diameter.

Smokebox door casting is from the H-Class kit; its the correct pattern, but very marginally on the small side (less than 1mm on the diameter)  However its look fine sitting within the rivet ring.

 

 

Cheers, Dave.

 

 

[Daddyman]

That's a very round boiler to say it came out of GW rollers. I can't get mine to form a perfect circle - and neither could GW himself when he was demonstrating it to me at a recent show. I notice that you haven't even annealed it. Can you give any tips on how you get such a good cylinder? Thanks! 

[jrg1]

The GW roller and also the rivet press are first-class tools, in my opinion.  As you say, rolling slightly undersize allows for springing.  I do not use brass discs for the internals, preferring to turn solid brass and RS together-plenty of weight,, easy to set up and cut outs as necessary for the motor and gears. 

[Daddyman]

The GW roller and also the rivet press are first-class tools, in my opinion.  As you say, rolling slightly undersize allows for springing.  I do not use brass discs for the internals, preferring to turn solid brass and RS together-plenty of weight,, easy to set up and cut outs as necessary for the motor and gears. 

Yes, the roller is undoubtedly a first-class tool, but it takes some learning to use, and when its maker is reduced to saying "it's near enough, no one will see that underneath", and when none of the demonstration tubes on his stand are as round as DLT's, that underlines the difficulty of using the tool well. 

[jrg1]

Yes, the roller is undoubtedly a first-class tool, but it takes some learning to use, and when its maker is reduced to saying "it's near enough, no one will see that underneath", and when none of the demonstration tubes on his stand are as round as DLT's, that underlines the difficulty of using the tool well. 

Interesting.  i have never had any problems with mine.  Perhaps N/S sheet or softer grade brass (Thinner?) might solve the problem.

[N15class]

If you use oversized material and then cut the flat bit off. Or if precut use a piece of card that's oversized under the boiler you will lose or get less flat areas. It's the space between the rollers that cause the flat.

[Deano747]

If you use oversized material and then cut the flat bit off. Or if precut use a piece of card that's oversized under the boiler you will lose or get less flat areas. It's the space between the rollers that cause the flat.

 

Very true Peter. The card also protects any etched detail such as rivets or boiler bands!

 

Regards, Deano.

[Daddyman]

If you use oversized material and then cut the flat bit off. Or if precut use a piece of card that's oversized under the boiler you will lose or get less flat areas. It's the space between the rollers that cause the flat.

Interesting. Will try that, thanks! I have actually tried rolling round a piece of thin-walled brass tube, of the sort usually used by modellers for boilers, but I still got flats. 

 

If I rolled an oversize piece of brass or N/S as you suggest, what would be the best way to cut the excess off? Most methods I can think of risk distortion. Thanks. 

[DLT]

I've never encountered any problems using the GW Rollers;  this particular boiler was already rolled but squashed.  I managed to bend out the squashed bit, and bend the already opened-out firebox sides back into the curve and then put it through he rollers.  I was surprised how good the result was!  You may never get it perfectly round, which is why I soldered in the discs.  By squeezing the tube against the discs while soldering you get a perfectly round tube (or perfect enough for our purposes.)  I wrapped a strip of card around the tube to provide some insulation while soldering, or you could use a Jubilee Clip or twisted wire or similar.

I will try to take a photograph.  If I can find enough hands...

[Daddyman]

I've never encountered any problems using the GW Rollers;  this particular boiler was already rolled but squashed.  I managed to bend out the squashed bit, and bend the already opened-out firebox sides back into the curve and then put it through he rollers.  I was surprised how good the result was!  You may never get it perfectly round, which is why I soldered in the discs.  By squeezing the tube against the discs while soldering you get a perfectly round tube (or perfect enough for our purposes.)  I wrapped a strip of card around the tube to provide some insulation while soldering, or you could use a Jubilee Clip or twisted wire or similar.

I will try to take a photograph.  If I can find enough hands...

Much appreciated, thanks!