Jump to content

DLT's SR Locos - Another Z-Class, DMR Kit


Recommended Posts

The new motion plate has been fabricated, using the remains of the existing one, plus two additional crosspieces and some brass angle.  Once the mounting points for the motion have been completed, I will cut and file away the excess brass.

 

1651354099_IMG_4747small.jpg.1029edfcbf5a3db4a7e8140c0bb887e2.jpg

 

2147088188_IMG_4748small.jpg.ceb92c3b6d2f878e9d41fce303b0c746.jpg

 

1235266412_IMG_4750small.jpg.552077ffa4d79d1e157cbe9506c08f03.jpg

 

Next job is to offer-up the slidebar etches and assemble the cast whitemetal cylinders

Cheers, Dave.

  • Like 5
  • Craftsmanship/clever 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Jack, I know its taking a while, but garden shed building, and a new puppy have taken up most of my time over the Easter holidays.  Back to work today, but the shed still isn't finished...

  • Friendly/supportive 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • RMweb Gold
4 minutes ago, DLT said:

Thanks Jack, I know its taking a while, but garden shed building, and a new puppy have taken up most of my time over the Easter holidays.  Back to work today, but the shed still isn't finished...

 

You've done more in a couple of weeks than I'd managed to do in a year! Plus it's all looking very, very good. So please take your time!

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
24 minutes ago, Stubby47 said:

It's looking fantastic, as always, but I'm not sure it will fit on my DM4MS at Taunton.

 

We could try it in the exchange siding??

Or we could try this one,  https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/35253-dlts-ng-workbench-back-to-the-hunslets/page/24/  (bottom of page) but it might be a bit big...

Edited by DLT
Link to post
Share on other sites

The motion is coming along nicely, (photos later) looks accurate and fits together well.  Unfortunately the cylinder castings aren't great.  They look ok, and are the correct size, but the centre spacing of the pistons doesn't match.  It's about 24mm on the casting and nearer 30mm on the etch.  So I'm narrowing one and widening the other, to achieve a spacing of 28mm.

Apart from that its fine!

 

Still hoping to have it running for RMweb on Sunday.

Cheers, Dave.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 29/04/2019 at 06:44, Jack P said:

You really seem like you're up against it! Looking forward to seeing your solution, sorry for lumping you with the sh*tty bit!

 

No Probs Jack!

I took the N15X to the RMweb Members Day on Sunday, and it was much admired.  When I mentioned your thoughts about stripping it and repainting, most people were horrified! 

The general consensus was that the painting, lining and general finish were excellent; and the whole thing looked superb.

Cheers, Dave.

  • Agree 1
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • RMweb Gold

Well that's very kind of them, (makes me wish I'd sent the tender along too!) I'll have to see what it looks like next to the H2, and then make my mind up about stripping.


Looking forward to any photo you might have snapped!

Link to post
Share on other sites

I didn't actually take any photos on Sunday, can't think why.  Others did, I will appeal.

I think I've worked out a way of sorting the slidebars, but I don't want to say any more about ti until I've tried it!

Cheers, Dave.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Right, some progress at last!  The etched slidebars are a long "U" shape, designed to be bent outwards at the end to form the motion bracket.  They were a bit short as they were, even before they were bent.  Being a bit on the flimsy side and only attached at one point, they waved around in the breeze and I was constantly worried about breaking them.

So, I decided to laminate another layer of NS strip on to them, bent outwards at the rear and with another piece soldered across the end  This had the effect of lengthening the bars and making them a great deal stronger.  Then all I had to do was file away the rear of the end bracket to clear the connecting rod.

 

1100442962_IMG_4754small.jpg.5e53daeca20748004c356d8edfbdde28.jpg

 

1576785528_IMG_4755small.jpg.96e0f3fd58b550072a7f6ba11f91dce1.jpg

 

The slots in the Romford crossheads needed opening out slightly for the thicker slidebars, but that was a quick job with a junior hacksaw blade and thin needle file.  And thus we now have some working motion.

 

698563583_IMG_4757small.jpg.417ceabe6b6786f875ec4dbd05912c47.jpg

 

1882274738_IMG_4759small.jpg.2ae21248fce8e322e9ad465544fa4412.jpg

 

Next job is to assemble the rear end of the valvegear before moving on to the cylinders.

Cheers, Dave.

Edited by DLT
Edited for spelling, looked like I wrote it in the dark!
  • Like 4
  • Craftsmanship/clever 5
Link to post
Share on other sites
7 minutes ago, Jack P said:

That looks absolutely fantastic Dave!!

 

As long as you don't look too closely and spot the chips in your beautiful paintwork....

The slidebar bracket is now somewhat overscale, but this is an advantage at what was an extremely weak location.

You may have noticed that the crossheads are back to front, with the plain flat surface on the outside, instead of the detailed side.  The reason is that I will have to solder on the etched droplink from the kit.  This will be much simpler on a flat surface, and will cover most of it anyway.

Cheers, Dave.

Edited by DLT
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • RMweb Gold
On 02/05/2019 at 17:45, DLT said:

 

No Probs Jack!

I took the N15X to the RMweb Members Day on Sunday, and it was much admired.  When I mentioned your thoughts about stripping it and repainting, most people were horrified! 

The general consensus was that the painting, lining and general finish were excellent; and the whole thing looked superb.

Cheers, Dave.

 

I totally agree @DLT I was one whom admired @Jack P ‘s painting and lining and certainly no need to start again.  

 

All I can following the subsequent posts is great work by you both. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • RMweb Gold

Thank you Graham, Dave is certainly doing a great job of finishing it off, and I appreciate your compliments on the painting/lining! 

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Done some more to the motion-bracket; I've strengthened the radius-rod (the bit that goes along the outside) by doubling up it's thickness, meaning that I could remove the (now redundant) remaining bit of brass angle.

 

The expansion-links should be mounted inside a hefty bracket, and I've represented this by adding an L-shaped bit of NS each side, with the bracket soldered on the outside.  I cheated by soldering on an oversize bit of NS with a hole in it, and filing the bracket shape afterwards. 

I'm not sure how clear that sounds, but the photos should help.

 

280643816_IMG_4794small.jpg.8663f2dd37f3beef5ca167631b0c0726.jpg

 

1339956853_IMG_4795small.jpg.667dfae916f63fdd3b6d92c97bab34ff.jpg

 

1112808205_IMG_4796small.jpg.b89ec1353bb3424d171c7b8a173dbcd6.jpg

 

Right and left eccentric assemblies.

1018738687_IMG_4797small.jpg.38f09f072ecd26c5ddf02fd14050224b.jpg

Edited by DLT
  • Like 4
  • Craftsmanship/clever 7
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • RMweb Gold

Just when I thought that maybe there was a silver that I could've done that myself - that motion bracket looks like a real silk purse.

Edited by Jack P
Link to post
Share on other sites
20 hours ago, DLT said:

Whilst working on the valvegear, I thought a quick tutorial sequence on assembling using soldered rivets might be of general interest?  Many folks seem to be put off kitbuilding by the thought of assembling valvegear.

I wondered about putting this in a different section, but I guess here on my Workbench is as good as anywhere.

 

The component parts: two bits of valvegear (in this case, Expansion Link and Eccentric Rod) and a 0.8mm diameter brass rivet.  the buts where solder needs to stick (rivet and back of Expansion Link) are clean and shiny, and the rear hole is slightly countersunk to allow a pool of solder to form.

1527564025_IMG_4767small.jpg.6c0804195353eba3c8779527c7a9defd.jpg

 

Rivet inserted from the front

615126103_IMG_4769small.jpg.22d61f32d5b308b95dd6cb690e2c3cc0.jpg

 

A paper "washer" put over the rivet.  This creates some clearance to allow the joint to rotate, AND prevents solder penetrating the moving bit.

544158870_IMG_4773small.jpg.64cff2585c33ebc6b5f1228d1de3e0c9.jpg

 

The expansion link added.

1621081642_IMG_4775small.jpg.ace239f38a68f8b843bb69d476312272.jpg

 

Flux added to the joint area, and a small amount of solder on the tip of the iron applied.  The hotter/more powerful the iron, the quicker the joint will be formed.  In this case it is almost instantaneous.

1066022525_IMG_4777small.jpg.c7a45be1ab579d7a3552dcf5aedc12a5.jpg

 

When done, the paper can be cut/torn out, and it should look like this.

584529095_IMG_4779small.jpg.4f07bde26e53000e89531314cff9533d.jpg

 

The rivet is cut back and filed down.  It does not have to be filed flush in this case.

1430348397_IMG_4780small.jpg.bc2b0537b5a95634afb3e43aba69258c.jpg

 

Turn over, and it should look like this from the front.

232877208_IMG_4783small.jpg.126b0fb7e86032e496ff6aafea96626c.jpg

 

Is that useful in any way?

Cheers, Dave.

Very much so, thanks Dave!  One of those jobs that you read about frequently but rarely see demonstrated so clearly.

 

Thanks for sharing,

 

Ben

Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, BenW said:

Very much so, thanks Dave!  One of those jobs that you read about frequently but rarely see demonstrated so clearly.

Thanks for sharing,  Ben

 

Thanks Ben, glad it's of use.  I've added it to the Index on page 1 of the Topic.

Cheers, Dave.

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 06/05/2019 at 16:54, DLT said:

Whilst working on the valvegear, I thought a quick tutorial sequence on assembling using soldered rivets might be of general interest?  Many folks seem to be put off kitbuilding by the thought of assembling valvegear.

I wondered about putting this in a different section, but I guess here on my Workbench is as good as anywhere.

 

The component parts: two bits of valvegear (in this case, Expansion Link and Eccentric Rod) and a 0.8mm diameter brass rivet.  the buts where solder needs to stick (rivet and back of Expansion Link) are clean and shiny, and the rear hole is slightly countersunk to allow a pool of solder to form.

1527564025_IMG_4767small.jpg.6c0804195353eba3c8779527c7a9defd.jpg

 

Rivet inserted from the front

615126103_IMG_4769small.jpg.22d61f32d5b308b95dd6cb690e2c3cc0.jpg

 

A paper "washer" put over the rivet.  This creates some clearance to allow the joint to rotate, AND prevents solder penetrating the moving bit.

544158870_IMG_4773small.jpg.64cff2585c33ebc6b5f1228d1de3e0c9.jpg

 

The expansion link added.

1621081642_IMG_4775small.jpg.ace239f38a68f8b843bb69d476312272.jpg

 

Flux added to the joint area, and a small amount of solder on the tip of the iron applied.  The hotter/more powerful the iron, the quicker the joint will be formed.  In this case it is almost instantaneous.

1066022525_IMG_4777small.jpg.c7a45be1ab579d7a3552dcf5aedc12a5.jpg

 

When done, the paper can be cut/torn out, and it should look like this.

584529095_IMG_4779small.jpg.4f07bde26e53000e89531314cff9533d.jpg

 

The rivet is cut back and filed down.  It does not have to be filed flush in this case.

1430348397_IMG_4780small.jpg.bc2b0537b5a95634afb3e43aba69258c.jpg

 

Turn over, and it should look like this from the front.

232877208_IMG_4783small.jpg.126b0fb7e86032e496ff6aafea96626c.jpg

 

Is that useful in any way?

Cheers, Dave.

 

Hi dave

 

I use a very similar method myself when soldering up valve gear, but I add a small drop of oil to the paper, which I find helps to stop the solder for getting where you don’t want it to get.

 

I do like the countersinking idea though, I might try that next time. 

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.