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DLT's SR Locos - Lord Nelson Craftsman Kit


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Oh boy!

 

Dave that really looks the business! Tony will be hugely pleased i'm sure.

 

I appreciate the insight on the ultrasonic cleaner - i've been meaning to get my hands on one for a while now, do you find the 1.4L tank to be too big/small or about right?

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10 hours ago, DLT said:

Hi Bryan,

I'm not sure if it helps much, but this is the one I've got:  https://www.amazon.co.uk/James-Ultrasonic-8000-High-Cleaner/dp/B000XXVWTM  I'm assuming its not produced any more. 

I've had it a long time, and I can't remember where I bought it or what it cost!  I know it was a step up from a basic home/jewelry model, but I expect they've improved in the intervening time.

All the best, Dave.

 

I had one of the cheap Lidl jewelry cleaners for several years - it was fine for components, but too small for a full mechanism.

 

I now have a model JPS-30A 6.5 litre tank model - these cleaners seem to be marketed under a bewildering number of brands.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-Thermostat-Stainless-JPS-30A-Ultrasonic-Cleaning-Machine-6L-with-Basket-/152509156691

 

A 6.5 litre tank cleaner will hold a complete loco chassis - much more practicable - and it has a heater so that the fluid is kept warm / hot.

 

A tank cleaner is more expensive than what is basically a jewelry cleaner - though you may well find a JPS-30A at a cheaper price if you search around - but, in the long run, it's money well spent.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

 

 

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3 hours ago, Michael Edge said:

That looks superb - but I'm not very keen on the visible screw heads, are they staying like that?

 

Thanks Mike.  Screw heads can be an issue, but they are less obvious when you look at the model.  I will probably fill the slots with something.

Cheers, Dave.

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10 hours ago, Jack P said:

I appreciate the insight on the ultrasonic cleaner - i've been meaning to get my hands on one for a while now, do you find the 1.4L tank to be too big/small or about right?

 

9 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

 

I had one of the cheap Lidl jewelry cleaners for several years - it was fine for components, but too small for a full mechanism.

I now have a model JPS-30A 6.5 litre tank model - these cleaners seem to be marketed under a bewildering number of brands.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-Thermostat-Stainless-JPS-30A-Ultrasonic-Cleaning-Machine-6L-with-Basket-/152509156691

A 6.5 litre tank cleaner will hold a complete loco chassis - much more practicable - and it has a heater so that the fluid is kept warm / hot.

A tank cleaner is more expensive than what is basically a jewelry cleaner - though you may well find a JPS-30A at a cheaper price if you search around - but, in the long run, it's money well spent.

Regards,

John Isherwood.

 

 

My tank is approx 6.5inch x 5inch x 2.5 deep.  Big enough for 4mm scale locos, and I can get most of my 7mm narrow gauge models in it, apart from the coaches.  Size/shape of the tank is probably the important factor when choosing one.  

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5 hours ago, DLT said:

 

 

My tank is approx 6.5inch x 5inch x 2.5 deep.  Big enough for 4mm scale locos, and I can get most of my 7mm narrow gauge models in it, apart from the coaches.  Size/shape of the tank is probably the important factor when choosing one.  

 

Thanks Dave & John

 

I have found one which is a bit of a compromise between size and cost which seems to fit the bill, it is a GT Sonic 3L which has a tank (9.6inch X 5.6inch X 4inch (24CM X 14CM X 10CM), not quite as big as John's but the price (on E-bay) comes in at around £83 (the 6L ones seem to be around £200).

Do you have to buy the additive fluid or can you use just water?

 

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58 minutes ago, gz3xzf said:

 

Thanks Dave & John

 

I have found one which is a bit of a compromise between size and cost which seems to fit the bill, it is a GT Sonic 3L which has a tank (9.6inch X 5.6inch X 4inch (24CM X 14CM X 10CM), not quite as big as John's but the price (on E-bay) comes in at around £83 (the 6L ones seem to be around £200).

Do you have to buy the additive fluid or can you use just water?

 

 

As most of the models that I clean have been soldered, I add a few crystals of washing soda to neutralise the acid flux, and a drop of washing-up liquid to remove greasy finger marks.

 

John Isherwood.

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13 hours ago, DLT said:

 

Thanks Mike.  Screw heads can be an issue, but they are less obvious when you look at the model.  I will probably fill the slots with something.

Cheers, Dave.

 

A few years ago, I read on another thread on here (I’m sorry but I can’t remember who’s it was) a method to disguise the screw heads. He used small discs of paper sprayed the same colour (and at the same time) as the loco. These were then glued over the screw heads to hide them. They could easily be removed with a knife if necessary later. 

Edited by BSW01
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On 15/06/2020 at 11:35, DLT said:

 

 

 

The whole thing is expertly built and looks fantastic, but that front end captures the look of the prototype perfectly!

Edited by Jack P
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At long last I think I've run out of bits to stick on.  screw-link coupling on the front, and lastly the whistle. 

Weight has been added to the chassis by four large chunks of lead fixed into various cavities. The intention was to line the large boiler cavity above the drivers with lead sheet, as there's plenty of room around the motor, but I seem to have run out of sheet.  I'm sure I had a piece almost six inches square but I can't find it anywhere

 

A final couple of photos to show the slide-out cab detail; cruelly blown up to show the whitemetal limitations, but featuring the beautiful Markits reverser.  The reason for the pipework not reaching the floor is that the floor as supplied was too high.  This was presumably to clear the driving wheels, and not to require splashers or have the wheels intruding into the cab.  I'm sure a driver and fireman will be added, who will hide the issue.

 

341464648_IMG_6153small.jpg.d90750f9f08e811f6b3fa34f214f175c.jpg

 

1498192734_IMG_6146small.jpg.edd72695255d663d61ed0a31197c2c5d.jpg

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited by DLT
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Here's a quick video to prove that it's all together and working.

 

 

And if you're wondering why the scenery looks a bit overscale, its running on my 7mm narrow gauge layout.

Edited by DLT
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12 hours ago, DLT said:

And if you're wondering why the scenery looks a bit overscale, its running on my 7mm narrow gauge layout.

 

As the standard gauge buffer stop came into view I was thinking "somethings wrong here!". :D:D

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As this is one of my favourite kitbuilds, please excuse my indulgence in putting up some more photos before it is dispatched to it's new "home shed". 

I've definitely run out of things to stick on now, its got a whistle, front screw-link coupling, lead sheet lining the boiler etc.

 

1184642281_P1070589small.jpg.3f1accc7f539fa7f4b7d86ab7683a2a6.jpg

 

326424885_P1070591small.jpg.50ed568ddbaaa9d6eaf4f419a30ef3ae.jpg

 

1563866451_P1070592small.jpg.8c89f27a26de50263d2a99c40bf13c4f.jpg

 

685328435_P1070604small.jpg.7e581bf646afccb7c8174c42b98bf64c.jpg

 

1073346068_P1070612small.jpg.a2872cba8556d76158db119203b5a2d6.jpg

Edited by DLT
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In original as-built condition, the smokebox door was in the centre.  With these locos having parallel boilers and consequently massive smokeboxes, I'm assuming the door was a bit high for easy access and working.  Certainly all the photos I've seen of these locos in SR & BR days, show the smokebox door in the lower position.  And this gives the smokebox an even more massive appearance!

Cheers, Dave.

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Getting started on the next job, another Maunsell Z-Class 0-8-0, from the excellent DMR kit.  I probably won't do a blow-by-blow account with this one, (famous last words) as it will be much the same as the Z I built some years ago, and detailed earlier on this thread starting here:  Z-Class, DMR Kit 

Instead I will do some general progress reports and photos, and detail anything that I do differently.  I've ordered one of Highlevel's new 1320 coreless motors, and a Loadhauler-Plus gearbox.

Cheers, Dave.

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23 minutes ago, DLT said:

Getting started on the next job, another Maunsell Z-Class 0-8-0, from the excellent DMR kit.  I probably won't do a blow-by-blow account with this one, (famous last words) as it will be much the same as the Z I built some years ago, and detailed earlier on this thread starting here:  Z-Class, DMR Kit 

Instead I will do some general progress reports and photos, and detail anything that I do differently.  I've ordered one of Highlevel's new 1320 coreless motors, and a Loadhauler-Plus gearbox.

Cheers, Dave.

 

Looking forward to seeing this Dave, I've been meaning to order one of the DMR Z's for a while.

 

I'd love to see some in depth info on how you sort out the back of the bunker to keep the cab/bunker sides straight. Also interested to see the new 1320.

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