DLT's SR Locos - Lord Nelson Craftsman Kit

[DLT]

Hio Richard,

 

Thanks for your comments.  Much as I admire the BR lined black livery, this one will be in SR lined green, and the target loco is 483.  The PDK kit will build the original batch 482 - 491, or the rebuilt E14 No.335

I have the Maidment and Bradley books, but not the Peter Swift one.  Sounds like you are recommending that as the best one to get?

 

All the best, Dave.

[Graham_Muz]

With respect to the nickname the term “Tavies” generally referred to all the locos used on the Tavistock goods that was often a haunt of both the many H15s from Salisbury or also sometimes S15s. 

[30368]

Hi Dave,

 

I think all three books are good. I used to work with Peter Swift a long time ago when we commisioned the HST sets from Derby, so perhaps I am biased!

Building 483 would be the easiest requiring no changes to the PDK kit. 335 would be a lot trickier. Firstly it had the longer wheelbase. That is straitforward for the excellent PDK kit frame etching has alternative wheelbases. The much larger problem relates to the tender which will probably have to be scratch built. It was fitted with Drummond's prototype 8 wheeled tender of 4500 gallon capacity. You probably know this already so sorry if you do!

 

H15 30335 with partners. Have since aded 30491 to the collection. 335 is a PDK kit with scratch built tender.

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

[DLT]

Hi Richard,

Lovely model!

Yes indeed, the tenders are a different kettle of fish.  I don't think anyone does a kit for 335's tender; although is it the same one as used by the T14s? 

I keep trying to nudge SEFinecast into re-doing the NuCast T14, as I'm convinced there would be a BIG demand for it.  I built one for a friend years ago, not an easy kit, but made a terrific model:  My Paddlebox Model

If I was doing the H15 in BR black i would be tempted to go for 489, as that was the last one to keep its original tender.

Cheers, Dave.

[Denbridge]

1 hour ago, DLT said:

Hi Richard,

Lovely model!

Yes indeed, the tenders are a different kettle of fish.  I don't think anyone does a kit for 335's tender; although is it the same one as used by the T14s? 

I keep trying to nudge SEFinecast into re-doing the NuCast T14, as I'm convinced there would be a BIG demand for it.  I built one for a friend years ago, not an easy kit, but made a terrific model:  My Paddlebox Model

If I was doing the H15 in BR black i would be tempted to go for 489, as that was the last one to keep its original tender.

Cheers, Dave.

When I last spoke with Dave on the subject, he said the moulds were shot and that they didn't receive all the masters when they acquired the range. He doubted the T14 would be one that would reappear. 

[Michael Edge]

1 hour ago, DLT said:

Hi Richard,

Lovely model!

Yes indeed, the tenders are a different kettle of fish.  I don't think anyone does a kit for 335's tender; although is it the same one as used by the T14s? 

I keep trying to nudge SEFinecast into re-doing the NuCast T14, as I'm convinced there would be a BIG demand for it.  I built one for a friend years ago, not an easy kit, but made a terrific model:  My Paddlebox Model

If I was doing the H15 in BR black i would be tempted to go for 489, as that was the last one to keep its original tender.

Cheers, Dave.

I think 335's tender was unique, I remember working it out to build my 7mm model of 30335.

[DLT]

4 hours ago, Denbridge said:

When I last spoke with Dave on the subject, he said the moulds were shot and that they didn't receive all the masters when they acquired the range. He doubted the T14 would be one that would reappear. 

 

That's a shame.  Many of the NuCast kits have been superseded by later kits or rtr, but the T14 is a big loss.

 

3 hours ago, Michael Edge said:

I think 335's tender was unique, I remember working it out to build my 7mm model of 30335.

 

Ooo, any photos we can see Mike???

[Michael Edge]

I'll have to dig it out of its box, don't seem to have any photos of it on here. It hasn't run since the demise of our old club layout "Regis Bay".

[DLT]

Just a quick update to show my method of fixing the boiler.  I've soldered in front, rear and middle formers to maintain the shape, and an extra crossmember at the front carries a captive screw to be secured through the footplate.  At the rear, a brass pin in the rear former goes through a hole in the cab front to locate the back end.  This is only to make the boiler removable for painting and lining; once its all done I wouldn't anticipate ever having to remove it again.

 

 

Edited September 6, 2022 by DLT

[DLT]

Hi Richard, Mike, or anyone who can help!

Is there in existence anywhere a photo of the cab interior of an H15?  For some reason the cab floor assembly supplied in the kit is way too high, over 2mm above the level of the running plate when it should be slightly below it.  Which begs the question, what else is incorrectly positioned? 

I have photos of a couple of S15 cabs, and I'm making an educated guess that the layout didn't change by a huge amount.

Many thanks, Dave.

[DLT]

Just remembered where my initial information on the H15 came from, a question I asked back in 2010  https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/27678-urie-h15-chonker/

A very clear and concise summary of the variations was provided by "JE", and an excellent drawing by Mike Edge.

I can't believe it was ten years ago, no wonder i took a while to find it!

 

[30368]

Hi Dave,

 

Re cab. You are correct, the cab layout of the H15 is very similar to all of the Urie designs. I think the PDK kit may have a compromise or two regarding the cab floor and rear wheel splashers/seats. This picture may be useful -

 

 

Can't remember where I located it, I think it is a 7mm N15.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[Michael Edge]

9 hours ago, DLT said:

Hi Richard, Mike, or anyone who can help!

Is there in existence anywhere a photo of the cab interior of an H15?  For some reason the cab floor assembly supplied in the kit is way too high, over 2mm above the level of the running plate when it should be slightly below it.  Which begs the question, what else is incorrectly positioned? 

I have photos of a couple of S15 cabs, and I'm making an educated guess that the layout didn't change by a huge amount.

Many thanks, Dave.

PM sent just now.

[30368]

Dave,

 

Something else to note if you build 335. Unlike every other Uris/Maunsell 4-6-0 with eight wheeled tenders, 335's has a handbrake column and not the usual wheel.

 

My word, I have improved my soldering techniques since 2016! And before cleaning!

 

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

[DLT]

Thanks very much for all the info guys, its confirmed a fair bit of my guesswork. 

The PDK cab floor is a bit of a compromise, due to the need to accommodate the rear end of the chassis.  I think I can improve it though.

Cheers, Dave.

[Michael Edge]

As requested above, a few photos of my 7mm Chonker.

30335 was scratchbuilt, mostly from steel in 1997. Driving wheels are machined from iron castings and motion work all sawn out and machined from steel sheet. I painted and lined it, Paul Fletcher did the weathering.

Thanks to 30368 above I now know that the tender handbrake is wrong but I don't think I'll bother altering it.

[DLT]

Wow, what a stunner Mike!  Dont think I've ever seen one of these in 0-Gauge, very impressive.  And a proper engineering job in iron and steel to boot.  Why do you keep it packed away?

And its answered a lot of questions for me as well, that aren't obvious in the classic 3/4 front photos of the real thing.

 

In my 0-Gauge Group, we have a huge mix of prototype interests,  but the "Big Engine" enthusiasts are mostly LMS, GWR and BR orientated.  The Southern guys model Drummonds and Bulleids, but nobody seems to be doing Urie or Maunsell.

 

Thanks very much, that's brilliant.

Cheers, Dave.

[Michael Edge]

I don't have an O gauge layout to run it on, it was used for years on our club layout "Regis Bay" and it had a run out on Holiday Haunts at an exhibition once. I have built a few Southern locos, they will be out again when our new club layout appears but since this is an engine shed one based on Plymouth Friary they won't go very far.

Most of my scratchbuilding was done with steel shim for many years, etching has replaced a lot of it now, partly on the back of what goes through for our kits. I haven't done much wheel machining lately, for a long time most of my 7mm output was on AGH wheel castings but now it's almost all Slater's.

Scratchbuilt 0395 0-6-0 and the test etch for 11001 both seen on Regis Bay, I have an E1/R 0-6-2T as well but thta's packed away in a box somewhere.

[DLT]

Hi Mike, 

I don't think I ever saw Regis Bay.  I will look forward to seeing the new layout with your locos performing, I hope in the not TOO distant future.

Many thanks, Dave.

[DLT]

At last, an update!  Boiler unit is pretty much done, just awaiting a dome (inexplicably missing from the kit) to match that gorgeous turned brass chimney.

 

 

 

In the cab, mounting the floor at the correct level means I've had to step it over the rear end of the mainframes, so it matches the footplate.  Various modifications to the fittings followed, to ensure all were at the right height.  Markits supplied the beautiful brass "bacon slicer" reverser.

 

 

And we have a rolling chassis.  I turned down the flanges on the centre drivers so that they didn't touch the front ones.  Now there's barely a fag-papers clearance. 

Can't do any more to it until the motor and gearbox arrive.

 

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 6, 2022 by DLT

[bgman]

Very nice work Dave.

 

G

[DLT]

The bacon-slicer reverser is a beautiful piece of machined brass from Markits.

It didn't come out very well in the photos last night, so here's another one.

Its soldered to an un-prototypical but handy sized, hunk of whitemetal to position it in the corner of the cab.

 

 

Now the cab is done I can fit the roof and give it a lot more strength.

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 6, 2022 by DLT

[30368]

Wonderful work Mike and David. 7mm 30335 is a great piece of work and I rather like the Adams 0395 too. Sorry about the handbrake!

David, Which version of the H15 did you decide to build?

 

I have started my Ace Products N15X which will be 32331 the last in service. The etches for this kit are all in Nickel Silver which is easier to solder.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

 

 

[NBR906]

18 hours ago, DLT said:

At last, an update!  Boiler unit is pretty much done, just awaiting a dome (inexplicably missing from the kit) to match that gorgeous turned brass chimney.

Curiously my H15 kit also was mising its dome.

It was bought secondhand off Ebay with all the bags still sealed, still I accept I will need to pay for one.

 

I emailed PDK on 30th January enquiring as to availability of a replacement I could purchase as it is not yet listed on their parts list but never heard back. Really should chase that up so I can complete the body.

 

Other than the missing dome, a really nice kit to make though bending that footplate to match the valance is an interesting challenge. 

[DLT]

3 hours ago, 30368 said:

Wonderful work Mike and David. 7mm 30335 is a great piece of work and I rather like the Adams 0395 too. Sorry about the handbrake!

David, Which version of the H15 did you decide to build?

 

I have started my Ace Products N15X which will be 32331 the last in service. The etches for this kit are all in Nickel Silver which is easier to solder.

Kind regards,  Richard B

 

Thanks Richard,

We are going for one of the original H15 batch, as covered by the kit.  Possibly No.483, although that one carried a stovepipe chimney for much of the SR period.

 

3 hours ago, NBR906 said:

Curiously my H15 kit also was mising its dome.

It was bought secondhand off Ebay with all the bags still sealed, still I accept I will need to pay for one.

 

I emailed PDK on 30th January enquiring as to availability of a replacement I could purchase as it is not yet listed on their parts list but never heard back. Really should chase that up so I can complete the body.

 

Other than the missing dome, a really nice kit to make though bending that footplate to match the valance is an interesting challenge. 

 

Our replacement dome arrived today and was promptly fitted, its a very nice whitemetal casting.   You probably should follow that one up.

 

Shaping the footplate wasnt that difficult, its got very accurate bend and fold lines etched in it.  You will need a good straight edge to bend it over, and some bits of rod to help form the curves, but the etched valences make a very good profile former.

 

Best of luck!

Dave.