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DLT's SR Locos - Lord Nelson Craftsman Kit


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4 hours ago, hayfield said:

DLT

Very cleaver, thanks for sharing

 

Many thanks, but I can't take the credit for that dodge or removing the spring hangers.  I saw it somewhere recently, but can't remember where!  RMweb?  MRJ?

But my thanks to whoever it was.

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Chassis completed, brakegear and sandpipes added.  Front pickup was a bit too short and not springing enough, so replaced with one that doubles back.

 

1555670531_IMG_7251Small.jpg.a31f56cf957fd938933aeb9dc859a124.jpg

 

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Edited by DLT
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Just a bit of weathering to add now, plus of course the usual touching up of the footplate edge.  How DO you stop the paint chipping???

 

1855036448_IMG_7257Small.jpg.8021001e367d24ca321bc82c6fc04a6c.jpg

 

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Edited by DLT
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11 hours ago, DLT said:

plus of course the usual touching up of the footplate edge.  How DO you stop the paint chipping???

 

One of the great mysteries of human life.. from memory you wrote that you use an etch primer once blackening is complete? Maybe a varnish over the top?

 

Where did you get the brake block hangers for the G6? Or did the kit come with them?

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Hi Jack,  When the paint chips off the footplate edge, I roughen the edge with an abrasive block (Garryflex)  followed by running a brush-full of Carrs metalblack along it, and then matt-black.

Do this LAST, just before the loco goes into service!

On my narrow gauge locos I'm experimenting with making the footplate edge from black plasticard.

 

The G6 brakegear was in the kit, but if you need SR brakeblocks, Mainly Trains did a very nice etch, now available from Wizard Models:  https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/shop/locomotive/mt182/

 

All the best, Dave.

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16 hours ago, DLT said:

Just a bit of weathering to add now, plus of course the usual touching up of the footplate edge.  How DO you stop the paint chipping???

 

942346337_IMG_7257Small.jpg.379d88739d876a8e4bc0c02d943588f1.jpg

 

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871390606_IMG_7269Small.jpg.bef7062b89f391ae0a6a031ab3a17fec.jpg

 

I was once told that whenever Guy Williams visited Pendon Museum one of the jobs he regularly did was to go round the working locos with a black felt tip marker and touch up the worn footplate edges.  I don't know if that is actually true but I have certainly done that with my own models.

 

Gerry

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On 05/09/2021 at 20:40, DLT said:

Just realised I havent done the injectors!  However all that is visible in ANY of the photos is a couple of bits of pipework below then footplate.

 

Heres a recipe for "a couple of bits of pipework"; fairly self-explanatory, three holes drilled in a piece of brass angle, and offcuts of copper wire left over from Markits clack-valves.  Soldered from behind and then filed flush

Size roughly gauged from photos (it varied a lot) and compared to the model.  The assembly is 7mm wide.

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Super-glued to the chassis frame just below the footplate.

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Edited by DLT
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Hi Folks,

Trying to kick this topic back into action.  Workinjg on a Craftsman Lord Nelson kit now, but nothing much to show yet.

Does anyone know, or have any photos, of the top/inside of the tender?  The kit has a flat top for the tender with no hopper, the idea is that you simply fill it with coal to hide it, but we want it mostly empty.  

I've been looking at Lord Nelson in its current form, but I'm not sure how err, "historically accurate" that is.

Cheers, Dave.

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Hi David,

 

There's a weight diagram in the back of The Book of The Lord Nelson 4-6-0s that shows the top of the tank/bottom of the coal space as a broken line, but that's about as good as it gets.

 

In any of the photos that might have been useful, one's view is obscured by several tons of coal.

 

Very inconsiderate!

 

However, 30850 is part of the National Collection and, given the NRM's well documented insistence upon faithful retention of other features when it was restored to working order, you should be able to rely on its authenticity. Internally, it should also (TTBOMK) match the tenders running with the Maunsell S15 on the NYMR and 30777 Sir Lamiel.

 

John

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  • DLT changed the title to DLT's SR Locos - Lord Nelson Craftsman Kit

Hi Dave.

It was good to have a chat with you at the Exeter show. As I have never fired to a Lord Nelson when I was a fireman at Feltham MPD. I made contact to an old fireman friend and he said it slops.  I am not sure of the design but being it is a Maunsell design perhaps you may look at another tender of a different class of engine by Maunsell.

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1 hour ago, RAY NORWOOD said:

Hi Dave.

It was good to have a chat with you at the Exeter show. As I have never fired to a Lord Nelson when I was a fireman at Feltham MPD. I made contact to an old fireman friend and he said it slops.  I am not sure of the design but being it is a Maunsell design perhaps you may look at another tender of a different class of engine by Maunsell.

Dave. I have had someone else come back and said it also slop at both sides which as you now that normal on tenders.

Edited by RAY NORWOOD
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Thanks for the tender info gents, the actual interior layout can be deduced from the distortion caused by the weld joints visible on the outside, also the interior battering its received from being coaled from a great height.

These crops (with thanks to the original photographers) show the original and modified internal slope, also the position of the sloping side-plates.

158745947_30850lord-nelsonTenderCrop.jpg.b30c04e920ae8678a0f726d133309e57.jpg

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441808776_30856TenderCrop.jpg.5d7da47a1577eb4c89f11e281a5e4686.jpg

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At last some action to show!  My usual method is to begin with then loco footplate and make a cradle from plywood for it to sit flat and level on:

915309645_IMG_7573Small.jpg.3ebd416ce67b729c2d4526d7f7bcac35.jpg

 

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And so to the subject of much study, the tender interior.  Or rather the lack of it!  There is no coal space in the kit, the idea being that you pile it high with coal so that no-one is any the wiser. 

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However we wanted it empty, so with the first-hand information supplied by Ray Norwood and drawings from Jack.P, plus that gleaned from study of photos I can start on the interior. 

These tenders started out as standard Maunsell, but were converted by Bullied to "self-trimming".  Meaning that the coal space was made into a deeper, slope-sided hopper, and the coal gravitated to the shovel-plate.  So the fireman didn't have to climb on top to pull it forward.

 

Bogies are rather nice whitemetal castings, but the mounting bosses need reducing in height as the tender currently sits too high.

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Plenty to keep me busy!

 

Cheers, Dave.

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7 hours ago, DLT said:

At last some action to show!  My usual method is to begin with then loco footplate and make a cradle from plywood for it to sit flat and level on:

915309645_IMG_7573Small.jpg.3ebd416ce67b729c2d4526d7f7bcac35.jpg

 

1743427871_IMG_7575Small.jpg.fd4370bba83b71e4dba41ac7248f93c1.jpg

 

 

 

Cheers, Dave.

 

Dave

 

I have used a similar method to support whitemetal footplates both in 4mm and 7mm scale, using a ply base and strips of soft wood, I have a couple of etched kits to build and will try using a ply former as you have. 

 

Thanks for the tip

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3 hours ago, hayfield said:

 

Dave

I have used a similar method to support whitemetal footplates both in 4mm and 7mm scale, using a ply base and strips of soft wood, I have a couple of etched kits to build and will try using a ply former as you have. 

Thanks for the tip

I generally use plywood as I have a large supply of bits.  The main need is that its consistent in thickness and stays flat (and you can solder on it)  The saw-cuts across this one are to help flatten it as that piece had a slight curve.

Cheers, Dave

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Temporary halt on the tender while waiting for some parts, so on to the mainframes.

 

Designed for a large open-frame type motor, there are large cutouts to be filled in with bits of left-over etch from the scrapbox:

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Having assumed it was etched nickel-silver, yellow brass started appearing when I filed and abraded it, so its actually plated brass.  One wonders why?

 

There is one long frame spacer that runs almost the whole length.  This provides a strong and square structure, but it still took a little while to ensure the axle holes aligned.

 

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Spring detail needs adding, but the long flat base provides a good location for adding everything, including a long pickup plate.

Edited by DLT
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