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DLT's SR Locos - Lord Nelson Craftsman Kit


DLT
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Might be worth going back to page 1 and inserting that at the top of the first post Dave, or in a few pages you're going to struggle to find the index ;)

 

Good point!

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Dear All,

 

As this thread has now passed 50 pages, I’m struggling to find things on it myself.

So here is an index with links, to what has gone before.

 

I hope it is helpful,

Dave.

 

 

Page 1 – S15 - PDK, O2 - SEFinecast, E1/R - Chassis SEFinecast: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos/

 

Page 1 – 3:  W - SEFinecast: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos/

 

Page 3 – 6:  S15 - DJH: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos/page-3

 

Page 6 – 8:  Q - Body SEFinecast: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos/page-6

 

Page 9:  B4 - SEFinecast: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos/page-9

 

Page 9 – 11:  Z - DMR: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos/page-9

 

11 – 16:  U - DJH/SEFinecast/Hornby: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos/page-11

 

16 – 18:  S15 - DJH Rebuild: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos/page-16

 

18 – 20: A12 Jubilee - Nu-Cast: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos/page-18

 

21 – 29: 700 - PDK: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos/page-21

 

29 – 31:  O2 - SEFinecast Completed: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos/page-29

 

31 – 33:  E1/R - SEFinecast Completed: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos/page-31

 

33 – 44:  E5X - SEFinecast Conversion: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos/page-33

 

44 – 53:  K10 - EJ Sharp:  http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-sr-locos/page-44

Thanks, the list will be very useful as I have some of the above kits to build myself and looking at how you’ve done them may assist me too!

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Well, it's been an excellent 'topic' Dave, you've even been successful in making me feel guilty giving up modelling Southern !! :sungum:

 

I didn't realise you had !

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Might be worth going back to page 1 and inserting that at the top of the first post Dave, or in a few pages you're going to struggle to find the index ;)

 

Now done Paul, index is at the top of page 1.

 

Cheers, Dave.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Hi Jack, 

 

It was 10thou (0.25mm) brass sheet, and the beading was the thinnest brass wire I could find at the time (0.45mm)  

The wire was carefully bent to shape while keeping it as flat as possible and soldered on.  Then I scraped away as much solder as I could.

 

Cheers, Dave.

 

PS  I have now found some 0.3mm wire

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  • 4 months later...
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The T6 class is out of my time period, but a long time ago, and before I had settled on what I was trying to do, I bought an old, second-hand Jidenco kit for a T6 and sent it to an alleged "professional" kit builder. He will remain nameless, but his work was quite appalling - the lining is wiggly, various parts are not straight, it has no weight in it, the central driving wheels are the only ones it picks up through and they don't touch the track because the front bogie is set too high, etc etc! It taught me a lesson, but I have kept it as a sharp reminder that not everyone who advertises a service is capable of delivering on what they say:

 

post-14629-0-53604500-1532358940_thumb.j

 

One day, when I need to let off steam I will perhaps hit it with a sledge hammer!

 

 

Making a start on Tony's non-working T6.  A number of issues with this kit, (which I will list later) but the accumulation of problem made the thing a total dead duck.

Its stripped on the workbench at the moment, I'll do some photos later.

 

Cheers, Dave.

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Some of the issues with this model come down to poor kit design, others to poor assembly. So:

 

It's got odd driving wheels!  Same diameter but different crank-throw (about .5mm)  Unfortunately they were mismatched on both sides, so it was never going to run.  I can  get round this by matching the throws on each side (long throw one side, shorter throw the other)

The connecting rods are too long, so the crossheads are jamming against the cylinders, preventing full rotation of the wheels.  I can shorten the connecting rods.

Slidebars on one side are not parallel, getting closer together towards the cylinder, causing the crosshead to jam between them.  Attempt to ease them apart.

There's precious little room between the slidebars each side for the bogie to swing.

There's about 2mm sideplay on every axle.

One of the pickup plates has come adrift.

 

Each of these issues would prevent the loco from running, but taken all together its a dodo.

 

However, none of these problems are insurmountable, indeed some are an easy fix, although the bogie might be more of a challenge.

 

I will report as I go.

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited by DLT
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Some of the issues with this model come down to poor kit design, others to poor assembly. So:

 

It's got odd driving wheels!  Same diameter but different crank-throw (about .5mm)  Unfortunately they were mismatched on both sides, so it was never going to run.  I can  get round this by matching the throws on each side (long throw one side, shorter throw the other)

The connecting rods are too long, so the crossheads are jamming against the cylinders, preventing full rotation of the wheels.  I can shorten the connecting rods.

Slidebars on one side are not parallel, getting closer together towards the cylinder, causing the crosshead to jam between them.  Attempt to ease them apart.

There's precious little room between the slidebars each side for the bogie to swing.

There's about 2mm sideplay on every axle.

One of the pickup plates has come adrift.

 

Each of these issues would prevent the loco from running, but taken all together its a dodo.

 

However, none of these problems are insurmountable, indeed some are an easy fix, although the bogie might be more of a challenge.

 

I will report as I go.

 

Cheers, Dave.

regarding bogie swing. On my still under construction Adams 4.4.0, I solved the bogie swing issue by making the chassis effectively a 2.6.0 with just the front bogie wheels pivoting. It's barely noticeable and solves the clearance issue perfectly.
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regarding bogie swing. On my still under construction Adams 4.4.0, I solved the bogie swing issue by making the chassis effectively a 2.6.0 with just the front bogie wheels pivoting. It's barely noticeable and solves the clearance issue perfectly.

 

Thanks Denbridge, that would do the trick.  The bogie in this kit is pretty minimalist in terms of the amount of metal and structural integrity, so it may be a "start again" job.

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I've got a Jidenco T3 to build.

It will have the same bogie clearance issues as this beast.

I'm going to follow this build very closely!!

                                           Chris.

 

Hi Chris,

And I will be interested to follow yours!

This one is more of a "get out of jail" project than a new construction, but is proving interesting already.

Cheers, Dave.

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So far so good, we have a rolling chassis!

 

post-5825-0-45985200-1541807341_thumb.jpg

 

I shortened the connecting rods by cutting off the big-end and soldering it back on on top of the rod.  Then simply drilled through the crankpin hole again.  Result, rod shorter by about 2mm, and a more three-dimensional big-end, rather than the flat etch.  The photos should explain.

 

post-5825-0-78981000-1541807357_thumb.jpg

 

post-5825-0-83583900-1541807373_thumb.jpg

 

Thus the crosshead is no longer hitting the front of the cylinder.

 

post-5825-0-61265900-1541807349_thumb.jpg

 

Cheers, Dave.

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In 4mm Dave I always pivoted the bogie on or just behind the rear axle. If you then put an arched slot for the central fixing screw, it can either be sprung or used as the point of the triangle for compensation. Which is my preferred method for 0-4-4 or 4-4-0s.

I was going to scratch build a T6 in 7mm, but will instead be going for an X6.

Watching with interest.

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Pickups have been sorted, gearbox cleaned up, lubricated and fitted, and I'm happy to report that the T6 now runs under power.  Probably for the first time!

 

Now I need to file down the gearbox sides so that it fits in the frames without hitting the pickup plates.  Which was probably what knocked them off in the first place...

 

Cheers, Dave

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Pickups have been sorted, gearbox cleaned up, lubricated and fitted, and I'm happy to report that the T6 now runs under power.  Probably for the first time!

 

Now I need to file down the gearbox sides so that it fits in the frames without hitting the pickup plates.  Which was probably what knocked them off in the first place...

 

Cheers, Dave

I'm just amazed! :swoon:

I had totally written this loco off! :banghead:

 

Tony

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Gearbox now slides between the frames, so the motor sits low enough for the body to be fitted.  This exposed another issue, the crossheads now foul the footsteps.

Comparison with photos shows that the steps have been fitted too far inboard on the model.  I should be able to move them outwards to create enough clearance behind them.

Cheers, Dave.

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Gearbox now slides between the frames, so the motor sits low enough for the body to be fitted.  This exposed another issue, the crossheads now foul the footsteps.

Comparison with photos shows that the steps have been fitted too far inboard on the model.  I should be able to move them outwards to create enough clearance behind them.

Cheers, Dave.

 

Could you perhaps list the things that were done right on this build (if any!)?

It might be a shorter list!

 

Tony

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Footsteps removed.  The top bit of the etch had been bent the wrong way (outwards instead of inwards) so the steps were too far behind the valence.  On one set I managed to bend them the other way(hardly any solder on them) but the other one I had to file off.  

Anyway, now refitted to the loco, tucked neatly behind the valence and fixed with a blob of 145-degree solder.  Crossheads now free to travel.

Next...!

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And the next is....

The splasher boxes inside the cab.  On one side the driving wheel flange is scraping the top of the box.  A quick look shows that the boxes are different heights, and one is too low....

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