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DLT's SR Locos - Lord Nelson Craftsman Kit


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As you may have read over on Tony's layout topic, the T6 has been returned to its "home shed", so this topic will be going quiet for a bit, while I get on with some narrow gauge.

All the best, Dave.

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image.png.64fe4611af19c5ba2ab0f67edb230468.png

 

A bit of a long-shot folks.!

 

Jack.P has passed his superb N15X (see https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/120327-southern-railway-modelling-lbscsecr/page/16/ ) on to me to assemble the valvegear etc, but there is a problem!  The large motion plate that everything is mounted on has been cut up for some reason (not by Jack I hasten to add!) but by a previous owner.

All I've got to go on is the exploded diagram in the kit, which shows quite a complicated assembly.  I'm sure I can fix it and rig something up myself, but what would be a help is to actually see one!

 

Please can I ask if anyone has got one of these locos that they might be able to photograph the motion bracket for us to see?  Or even better, if anyone has an unbuilt kit, could they scan the valvegear fret for me?

 

I know its a long shot, but if anyone could help I would be eternally grateful!

Thanks very much,

Dave.

 

 

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On 03/04/2019 at 10:36, Tony Teague said:

Hi Dave

Is this any use?

This was in stock but I can take some more if wanted.

Tony

 

Thanks very much Tony, that's a great help.

I THINK I've got all I need for the moment, but I'll let you know once I get started on the valvegear.

Cheers, Dave.

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Taking a look at Jack's N15X; Jack has made a splendid job of the kit so far, and what is needed to complete is motorisation.

The chassis is beautifully built, and with it is a Mashima 1428 motor and an assembled Highlevel gearbox.  So I need to fit this, add pickups and get it working, and then assemble the valvegear. 

The kit has old style brass frames (which are quite shallow) with whitemetal spring detail added, so fitting a conventional pickup plate isnt easy.  Additionally, Jack has made a super job of assembling the brakegear, and I may have to remove it in order to fit the pickups.

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You're very complimentary  Dave, especially considering this was the first kit I ever built! hopefully it's not too much of a hassle having to remove the brake gear, I obviously haven't learnt to do much futureproofing.

 

Also, if it's easier to strip the chassis of paint, feel free, i'm happy to repaint it.

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Apologies for the lack of recent updates folks, but progress is being made.  I will get some photos up shortly.

Building a shed for the wife and the arrival of a new puppy are slowing things down a bit.

Cheers, Dave.

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3 hours ago, DLT said:

Apologies for the lack of recent updates folks, but progress is being made.  I will get some photos up shortly.

Building a shed for the wife and the arrival of a new puppy are slowing things down a bit.

Cheers, Dave.

So is the wife going into the shed to make room for the puppy?:blink:

(or have I misunderstood?)

Tony

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1 hour ago, Tony Teague said:

So is the wife going into the shed to make room for the puppy?:blink:

(or have I misunderstood?)

Tony

 

Errr, probably best not to comment...

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Right, just to prove that something IS happening, Coupling rods etc have been fitted with Romford crankpins and bushes.  A quick push shows that Jack has created a lovely free-running chassis.

 

 

Cheers, Dave.

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First job towards a running chassis is pickups.  Very little provided in the kit and even less to fix them to.

My go-to method is a pcb plate with nickel silver wire wipers on the wheel backs.  With the gearbox mounted on the centre axle, we needed two separate plates.

For the front plate I've fixed a vertical captive screw through the frame-spacer, that will hold the motion above and the pickup below the frame.  behind the gearbox I've added a brass sheet spacer, with a captive nut, to secure the rear plate.

The photos should explain!

 

420939750_IMG_4622small.jpg.384e45bf35502cd595bc964527bd914b.jpg

 

687883299_IMG_4623small.jpg.d384dd3705f3410518835eb3ab02ed95.jpg

 

Looking at it, both plates could be longer, allowing the wipers to likewise be longer.

Cheers, Dave.

Edited by DLT
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Mark-two pickup plates fitted, longer to fill the available space, and for longer pickup wires.  Actual wires curve back on themselves, dictated by the chassis design and the choice of gearbox on the central axle.

Jumper-wires between the plates are now needed, plus wires from the end to the motor terminals, and we should be in business!

Yes I know the fixing screws are bridging the insulating gap, but three will be a plasticard washer underneath.

 

1258530286_IMG_4632small.jpg.e448d9cbc5107e183b91131f5159de95.jpg

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited by DLT
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No problem with the brake gear, it was about thirty seconds with a soldering iron and a fingernail to remove it.

the pickup plate would have been easier to fit if I had put the gearbox on the rear axle, but (a) the cast spring detail was in the way, and (b) when driving the middle axle there is far less chance of any binding in the coupling rods.  The chassis was designed (as they all were in those days) to take a big open-frame motor sitting on the frames and driving Romford type worm & wheel gears on the middle axle.

 

Cheers, Dave.

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11 minutes ago, CHAZ D said:

Do the bolts not short out across the PCB's?  Beautiful workmanship.

 

Thanks Chaz.

Currently yes;    Usually I cut away the copper where the screwhead/nut seats, but on this occasion I thought the area was too small to do that.  So instead they will have an insulating washer under them.

And the holes in the pcb are countersunk sufficiently for the screw portion not to touch the copper.

Cheers, Dave.

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Two bridging wires fitteds, linking the two pickup plates together.  One is visible in this picture, also the plasticard washers under the fixing screw and nut.

 

691933383_IMG_4638small.jpg.150141d2af5c908311edd20fc6f61fa5.jpg

 

To hold the motor in position I've added another small frome spacer, on which is pressed a small blob of Blue-Tack that holds the motor down comfortably.

 

1561069603_IMG_4634small.jpg.b33f1254938d0859ef81c9ea7abda463.jpg

 

1190413322_IMG_4641small.jpg.4ffbfb01b9bfdad85f30fe07adaeedb3.jpg

 

Cheers, Dave.

 

Edited by DLT
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After all that fiddling with the pickups, a quick polish of the wheel treads and backs was followed by this:

 

 

 

And the the REAL moment of truth, testing with Jacks beautifully finished bodywork on top:

 

 

Everything fitted perfectly!  there is a very minor clearance issue with the coupling rods touching the footplate, but that's easily solved.  Additionally the 1428 motor doesn't intrude into the cab as I feared it might.

Cheers, Dave.

Edited by DLT
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Of course, all the above means that I now have to start on the cylinders and motion.  I think I've got enough material to work with now, thanks very much to Phil "Wilton" for supplying a photo of an untouched etch for this loco here:   https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/120327-southern-railway-modelling-lbscsecr/&do=findComment&comment=3514791

The coupling rods in the kit are fishbellied, but the prototype has straight rods in all the photos I've seen, although in some views they could be VERY slightly fishbellied.  I will use the supplied items, they need a bit of filing down.

Cheers, Dave.

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Starting with Phil "Wilton"'s photo of the etch:

 

1619204573_MotionEtchVERSION1.jpg.d9dc2aef35c68c4e1e95ac5f698ea341.jpg

 

Some manipulation in Photoshop created a view of the motion plate:

 

923142602_MotionEtchFINAL.jpg.09e3ff343bfdc9651c26bce6786dd7d6.jpg

 

I will probably fabricate this with brass angle and add the existing bits rather that make a whole new one.

I'm hoping to bring this model along to the RMweb day in Taunton next weekend, so I'd better get on with it...

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited by DLT
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Dave,

I don't know what help this will be but I have dusted down my v.old ACE products N15X kit. A few pictures of the motion:

 

IMG_4876.JPG.c72503570377b8382169c0fc554e2536.JPG

 

IMG_4878.JPG.143b81457145c6a0aa72e54d06be2277.JPGIMG_4877.JPG.278fa94b066cccd8cd415470b24231a7.JPG

 

I started this a long time ago and have learnt much since! I fabricated the cylinders since those supplied were not too good. I intend to complete in the not too distant future and hope to learn from your experiences. First change will be a two stage gearbox!

 

Good luck and regards,

 

Richard B

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Started it a long time ago and have learnt much since, as you will notice! I fabricated the cylinders since those supplied were not too good. 

 

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The new motion plate has been fabricated, using the remains of the existing one, plus two additional crosspieces and some brass angle.  Once the mounting points for the motion have been completed, I will cut and file away the excess brass.

 

 

1846752714_IMG_4747small.jpg.c9c44df2efa2d384d6a43f46489a44c0.jpg

 

795950114_IMG_4748small.jpg.82dc95adbe7930f15e9a1b441efe325c.jpg

 

2127458671_IMG_4750small.jpg.dc11c79e1de776da8dcc0b404fab73d6.jpg

 

 

 

Next job is to offer-up the slidebar etches and assemble the cast whitemetal cylinders

Cheers, Dave.

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Thanks Jack, I know its taking a while, but garden shed building, and a new puppy have taken up most of my time over the Easter holidays.  Back to work today, but the shed still isn't finished...

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