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Jamie

Coaches for Culreoch

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My layout Culreoch really needs a more accurate collection of passenger stock. I currently rely on Bachmann's Mk 1 range, but these made only limited incursions into Galloway in the early 1960s so I ought to replace them with ex-LMS Stanier designs, which near-monopolised both the PP&W mainline and Kirkcudbright branch. So, I'm making a start down the road of a) learning to build coaches and b) learning to build brass kits. I should add that I've had a few abortive attempts with bits of other brass kits before, but think I'm probably going to see this one through successfully. Hopefully!

 

First up will be this Dia 1720A BCK, and partly in parallel is a CK (forget the diagram, but is a true "porthole" version) for use in separate rakes. I've slightly c*cked up the build sequence of the CK, need more heat than my iron can provide to get two mis-assembled bits apart again...

 

Today saw the basic sub-assemblies of body and underframe 'roughed out'.

post-6670-011426400 1287860357_thumb.jpg

 

Only problems encountered were

- fitting the bases to each end such that the body sat at the correct height and sat square, and

- folding the solebar made the 'lip' a bit wavy, despite valiant efforts with straight edges, clamps and all sorts. Hopefully won't be too noticeable.

So it's off to a good start, I think.

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Guest stuartp

Looking very neat and tidy so far. I hesitate to suggest it after your Dali-esque 26 but if you've got a gas ring that can be used for unsoldering things. Get a baking tray from the pound shop to stand the errant bit on, stops solder dripping all over the hob. Or use a blow lamp. Mind you, I'm hardly the one to be giving advice on etched kit building after some of my bodges !

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Looking very neat and tidy so far. I hesitate to suggest it after your Dali-esque 26 but if you've got a gas ring that can be used for unsoldering things. Get a baking tray from the pound shop to stand the errant bit on, stops solder dripping all over the hob. Or use a blow lamp. Mind you, I'm hardly the one to be giving advice on etched kit building after some of my bodges !

 

Hi Jamie,

 

I'm with Stuart on this...

 

Get a baking tray and choose:-

 

Put the whole lot in the oven to rais it all to a good heat

 

Then use the soldering Iron to apply spot heat to the joint you want to part.

 

or

 

Put the whole lot on a baking try and apply the blow torch to the joint you want to unsolder.

 

Thanks

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Instead of bending teh solebars up - try using soem brass channe; fro Eileens Emporium - its easier to fasten it on and it has straight edges...

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Guest Max Stafford

Otherwise you're off to a good start here, Jamie. If you've already got this far, I really can't see you having any serious problems with the rest of the job.

A nice, simple paint job too for the most part. Any thoughts on how you're going to line it?

 

Dave.

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Morning gents,

 

I'm hoping to get the use of a gas blowtorch from my Dad, carefully applied it should sort dis-assembly of the CK.

 

I'll have a look at Eileens' channel range - broke three drill bits in 5 minutes yesterday, bringing progress to a grinding halt, so I need a few of those from the same source.

 

Lining will be fine. I have CCT waterslide transfers, and intend to line *before* fitting too many interfering projections on the bodyside. I'm more worried about the paint finish. Orange peel is my speciality.

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Nice to see another Coachmann type thread Jamie! - And you picked a good couple of starters for 10 from the LMS...... I'd avoid like the plague much more than Phil suggests - a heat up in the oven (followed by the soldering iron) - you would surprised how little heat it takes to distort those fine glazing bars!

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Or use a blow lamp.

Beware of using a traditional blow lamp or burner. Too much heat and you will change the brass sturucture and it will become too easy to bend.

 

A better tool is one of these pencil-like flame soldering torches - but even then proceed with caution. Remember you are only trying to melt the solder not heat the brass up so hot it glows.

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I appreciate the thoughts on dis-assembly.

 

All I require to do is remove the ends from the base where I have soldered what is meant to be a bolted connection between body and floor. If it comes to it, I can use the alternative removable-roof construction method, but for the moment wish to build as-per the designers' recommendations.

 

A quick flash with the gas should gently heat the joint, there are no delicate bits in the vicinity.

 

I am happy to write off these first-builds to experience in any case, should the worst happen :)

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Midweek - I followed up Chessieliner's recommendation for brass channel, looks ideal for my purposes and not as thick as I'd expected either.

Less pleasingly I also re-checked the picture books, looks like I mis-identified another coach as being a BCK.

 

All to be fixed over what looks to be a dreich wet weekend ahead.

 

Edit, buggrit: if I'm having DMUs I can have a BCK.

Edited by Jamie

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Guest stuartp

Less pleasingly I also re-checked the picture books, looks like I mis-identified another coach as being a BCK

 

Go on, giz a clue...;)

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In characteristic style I have a vague handwritten note (made some time ago) of what formations I could glean from my usual books. Upon trying to find such a photo, well, it ain't there.

 

--

 

Also have the bogies to sort out - not entirely sure of the concept of the compensation wires given in the instructions, but I'll suck it and see.

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Good luck with the build Jamie and do keep us(me!!!) informed.

 

I have just ordered a 1011W 4mm Cooper Craft DiaQ1 Provender Wagon for Hay and Straw - which I hope is in brass?????? in order to cut my teeth on kit building.

At £5.60, if I lash it up, then I won't be losing any sleep over it.

 

In the meantime, I look forward to your updates on this build of yours.

 

Regards

 

David

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I have just ordered a 1011W 4mm Cooper Craft DiaQ1 Provender Wagon for Hay and Straw - which I hope is in brass?????? in order to cut my teeth on kit building.

At £5.60, if I lash it up, then I won't be losing any sleep over it.

 

No, it's (very nicely moulded) plastic and should go together nicely.

 

Adam

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No, it's (very nicely moulded) plastic and should go together nicely.

 

 

But not with a soldering ironlaugh.gif

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Play nice now Mr Pennine...

--

 

Yep, I tend to post most attempts whether they sink or swim David, so you can always watch how not to do it. But hopefully not.

 

I believe you're already watching Coachmann's masterclasses, others to watch for are Stuart's thread here: Link and MaxStafford's coaches here: Link

Which both pushed me over the edge to pick up the soldering iron.

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For unsoldering things you need something that delivers heat to a local area fast and I mean fast. I have an 85watt iron on standbye. By the time smaller irons have got things hot, the whole darn coach is to hot to handle.

 

Also glad to see more coaches being built. I like the D1720A, it's a useful coach for through services and branchline use in Scotland.

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A resistance soldering unit is very helpful for unsoldering, as well as soldering...:rolleyes:

 

When I got my LRM unit, the first thing I did was to unsolder all my failed attempts at etched kit building and then do them properly.

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Another couple of hours yesterday saw the bogies made up, and the roof cut to length and prepared. (I've since climbed down from my rejection of the BCK - I'm taking bigger liberties elsewhere in the fleet after all!)

 

post-6670-025008700 1288442390_thumb.jpg

 

I'm still surprised at how simply it is going together, turns out it's not actually rocket science after all. Albeit the sides are fitted about 0.2mm too low, leaving a gap along below the roof - this afternoon's task is to fix that, attach roof and arrange the bogie fixings.

 

Mustn't forget those bufferbeams either.

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Jamie, the D1720A was a re-skin job from a Period II full panelled coach and so it retained rivetted bogies and original roof with arched rainstrips either side.

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Thanks, I'll look out for a pair of rivetted bogies to replace these. I'm sure I'll find another vehicle to use them on over the winter ;)

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Thanks, I'll look out for a pair of rivetted bogies to replace these. I'm sure I'll find another vehicle to use them on over the winter ;)

Bachmann do an excellent LMS bogie, accessories pack 36-024 LMS Bogies (x2). They just need a peice of 80thou plastikard gluing into the top recess, then drill it in the centre to clear the Comet bolt.

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I discovered a set of rivetted LMS bogies in amongst the Composite bits, so they've been built up and fitted. I believe, but will check, that the welded ones can be used on the BR-built CK. (noting Coachmann's porthole CK discussion ongoing elsewhere - which worries me a bit)

 

So it still looks much like in the photo above, only all stuck together, and without the gaps along the rainstrip. No point in another photo tonight.

 

--

 

Next: underframe detailing, roof detailing and reinforcing the spring-hangers (?) on the new bogies, which are in great danger of breaking off. All that excitement and more, next weekend.

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Coming on well Jamie. I've chosen the coward's way out and gone for overlays where possible. Can't afford to go "full fat" as they say! I've got a set of these D1720A sides myself as it happens, so I'm watching it with interest smile.gif.

 

I discovered a set of rivetted LMS bogies in amongst the Composite bits, so they've been built up and fitted. I believe, but will check, that the welded ones can be used on the BR-built CK. (noting Coachmann's porthole CK discussion ongoing elsewhere - which worries me a bit)

 

I've got such a coach ready to do at this end too. Knowing the survivor at the SVR rather well (24617), it's quite different when you view the entire rake. http://timeaster.fot.../p67385134.html is about the most recent I can lay my hands on but it does show the significant differences rather well.

 

So it still looks much like in the photo above, only all stuck together, and without the gaps along the rainstrip. No point in another photo tonight.

 

--

 

Next: underframe detailing, roof detailing and reinforcing the spring-hangers (?) on the new bogies, which are in great danger of breaking off. All that excitement and more, next weekend.

 

I'll be interested to see how you tackle the underframe here. I've got several (tons) to do myself! blink.gif

 

Cheers,

Tim

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Coming on well Jamie. I've chosen the coward's way out and gone for overlays where possible. Can't afford to go "full fat" as they say! I've got a set of these D1720A sides myself as it happens, so I'm watching it with interest https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/public/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif.

 

I've got such a coach ready to do at this end too. Knowing the survivor at the SVR rather well (24617), it's quite different when you view the entire rake. http://timeaster.fot.../p67385134.html is about the most recent I can lay my hands on but it does show the significant differences rather well.

 

I'll be interested to see how you tackle the underframe here. I've got several (tons) to do myself! https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/public/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif

 

 

Thanks for the prototype shot. I see enough from that to understand I need to do a lot more studying. These vehicles aren't covered by my sole coaching stock book: the relevant Historic Carriage Drawings volume. Luckily the CKs are usually quite clear in my prototype picturebook collection. I considered the overlay route, but reckoned it was actually more work than the full-on kit build. Whether I'll go brass for the thirds and brakes I don't know, may be less financially risky than repainting the brown ( :rolleyes: ) Hornby models.

 

Underframe will be whatever comes out the cardboard box - this is me we're talking about <_<

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