Kadee Couplers

[Budgie]

Agreed.

Number 5s (and AFAIK only #5s) are also supplied in bulk packs as they are the size that fits nearly all US H0 stock.

This information is out-of-date. Go to http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/coupler.htm and scroll down a bit and you will see a list of all the couplers Kadee supply in bulk packs.

 

Incidentally, there is a "whisker" equivalent of the No.5; it is the No.148, and is available in a bulk pack of 50 pairs. The "whiskers" are attached to the coupler and replace the copper spring that the No.5 requires to centre it.

Edited December 20, 2015 by Budgie

[Ray H]

Can I ask someone to explain what the "Whisker" is (and what constitutes the "gearbox"?

 

Many thanks in advance.

[Dunsignalling]

Can I ask someone to explain what the "Whisker" is (and what constitutes the "gearbox"?

 

Many thanks in advance.

The "gearbox" is simply the container in which the coupler is mounted. Kadee call it a Draft Box which I think is a better description.

 

The "Whisker" is just Kadee's latest arrangement for centering the coupler in the draft box. The whiskers are integral with the coupler whereas, on previous Kadees like the No.5, there is a separate spring used.   

 

Best way to see the difference is to check out the (free to download) on-line Kadee catalogue on www.kadee.com which has illustrations of everything they make.

 

John

[roundhouse]

A Kadee with whiskers

[brian777999]

1. So if using NEM 17,18,19 and 20 on Bachmann and Dapol locos and wagons with NEM pockets, which height gauge should I use : 205 or 206 ?

 

2. If using a number 5 Kadee, what size metric self tapper should be used ?

 

3. What about old Hornby brake vans ? Has anybody had a go at fitting Kadees to these ?

 

I am almost convinced

Edited January 7, 2016 by brian777999

[kevinlms]

1. So if using NEM 17,18,19 and 20 on Bachmann and Dapol locos and wagons with NEM pockets, which height gauge should I use : 205 or 206 ?

 

2. If using a number 5 Kadee, what size metric self tapper should be used ?

 

3. What about old Hornby brake vans ? Has anybody had a go at fitting Kadees to these ?

 

I am almost convinced

I found that using an 8BA tap, works with the nylon screws supplied with several versions of Kadee couplings.

 

The Kadee screw is a 2-56 thread, for which I haven't the faintest idea of what it means (56 turns per inch, perhaps?).

 

I already had the 8BA tap so a bit of experimentation on a scrap of plasticard & all good. Saves buying 8BA screws, for something I'd toss!

 

 

https://sizes.com/tools/thread_american.htm

 

Apparently 2 Gauge & 56 Threads per Inch, making it a 2 UNC?

[Dunsignalling]

1. So if using NEM 17,18,19 and 20 on Bachmann and Dapol locos and wagons with NEM pockets, which height gauge should I use : 205 or 206 ?

 

2. If using a number 5 Kadee, what size metric self tapper should be used ?

 

3. What about old Hornby brake vans ? Has anybody had a go at fitting Kadees to these ?

 

I am almost convinced

1: .#205 and #206 gauges are the same height. The difference is that #205 is metal so is best used with a loose bit of track on the workbench. If accidentally left in place on live track, it will cause problems. If you want to use a gauge on the layout or a DCC programming track, the plastic-bodied  #206 is the one to go for. 

 

2: Can't help you with self-tappers as I don't use them but the hole in the box has clearance for M2 or 8BA bolts. 

 

3: If by "old Hornby brake vans", if you mean ones without NEM pockets, just cut/file away the original coupler until the underside is flat and use a #146.

 

   If that comes out too low, use a #141.

 

4: As has been pointed out in several posts, achieving correct alignment of #5 Kadees on stock with buffers almost always results in the draft box sticking out beyond the buffer beam which looks untidy/amateurish. The longer #146 enables it to be placed back under the vehicle giving a much neater appearance.

 

 

 

John  

Edited January 7, 2016 by Dunsignalling

[47137]

2. If using a number 5 Kadee, what size metric self tapper should be used ?

 

A John says, the number 5 has very limited application on 00 gauge trains. The gear box is an older design with side lugs, and it expects two screws. I've never found a self-tapper to fit these.

 

I believe, the appeal of the number 5 stems from some US models having built-in boxes to accept them. I've bought two pairs of number 5's (and none of these are still in use) and I suppose 50-60 pairs of whisker and NEM couplers.

 

The number 146 and its siblings come with a narrower box with only one screw and are easier to fit, mainly because the spring is an integral part of the coupler. I prepare the underframe by getting it nice and flat, then glue on the boxes with the usual styrene solvent. When the coupler is at the right height, I glue on the cover. No screws at all. The couplers come with some small washers. If you wipe a needle file over the surfaces of the pivot on the shank you can add in one of these washers above or below the pivot the tweak the height. You can also bend the shank up or down a touch. The underset couplers have more uses than overset ones on British stock.

 

For some reason, the NEM coupler pockets on many British RTR wagons are a naff sort of "fish tail" design which doesn't provide the close coupling mechanism seen on European stock You get a neater job by cutting them away, and fitting a 146 or whatever.

 

If you wanted to be clever, you might try to use the screw through the pivot to fix the body onto a wagon. Don't - the compression on the box stops the pivot moving. Don't ask how I know this :-)

 

- Richard.

[Dunsignalling]

 

 

If you wanted to be clever, you might try to use the screw through the pivot to fix the body onto a wagon. Don't - the compression on the box stops the pivot moving. Don't ask how I know this :-)

 

- Richard.

You can, and I sometimes do, especially on wagons that are descended from the Airfix range, but it is vital to find the "Goldilocks" level of tightness to the screw.

 

John

[brian777999]

If I confine myself to buying new Dapol and Bachmann stock with NEM pockets then I should not have any dramas should I ? Do Hornby use NEM pockets on their new stock ? I can leave modifications of old stock till later.

Edited January 7, 2016 by brian777999

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

If I confine myself to buying new Dapol and Bachmann stock with NEM pockets then I should not have any dramas should I ? Do Hornby use NEM pockets on their new stock ?

 Cannot comment on Dapol, no experience.

 

Bachmann, simple observation is your friend. Look at the tension lock coupler. If it has a downward step in it of approx. 2mm it has an overheight pocket. (I have totally lost track of where they are on coupler pocket position, having produced scores of models with the pockets too high against the NEM standard over the years, but latterly correcting this. As a result you can for sure buy plenty of 'new' items that have sat on a shelf since release, old enough that they have the high pocket.)

 

Hornby's completely newly tooled in China introductions of circa the last ten years have the coupler pocket in the NEM specified place. (But there's stacks of older models in their range still with the coupler mount applying at the time they were introduced, applies especially to their wagon production.)

[Richard Lee]

If I confine myself to buying new Dapol and Bachmann stock with NEM pockets then I should not have any dramas should I ? Do Hornby use NEM pockets on their new stock ? I can leave modifications of old stock till later.

I found the Dapol wagons that I have (which all came with NEM pockets) a doddle to convert to Kadees.  The NEM pockets have all been the correct height, and, because the pockets have been the correct size and shape for Kadees, there has been no need to wedge or glue.

 

The Bachmann wagons that I have, and also the E4 were not too bad to do.  Because they were fairly recent, I have not had too many problems with NEM pocket height.  Sometimes, to keep the Kadee from drooping because the internal height of the NEM pocket is a tiny bit generous,  I have had to put a sliver of either thin card or plasti-card underneath the part of the Kadee in the pocket, or use a very small dab of glue on the top.

 

As 34theletterbetweenB&D has said, the new Hornby stuff has NEM pockets, and incidentally, is very easy to convert.  Examples of Hornby that comes with NEM pockets includes M7s and Maunsell coaches.  Examples of Hornby that doesn't comer with NEM pockets includes Terriers, the Railroad Jinty, and a lot of their 4 wheel wagons.  You can usually do things like unscrew the coupling, drill a hole though the stem of one of the NEM Kadees and screw the Kadee in instead of the tension lock.  (I used number 18s for the Terriers and 20s for the Jinty chassis I used for the E2.)

 

The only OxfordRail item I have is a wagon.  Again, easy to convert.

 

In a day or so I should be able to report on how to convert a Kernow/DJM O2.  It looks easy, but I am still running it in.

[Dunsignalling]

If I confine myself to buying new Dapol and Bachmann stock with NEM pockets then I should not have any dramas should I ? Do Hornby use NEM pockets on their new stock ? I can leave modifications of old stock till later.

I habitually remove NEM mounts and fit Kadees with draft boxes (usually #146) unless it involves too much hacking about. I just prefer the action and appearance.

 

Dapol and Bachmann both fit NEM pockets to new releases but, especially in the case of Dapol, there is probably quite a bit of old stock around that pre-dates this and they haven't (so far as I am aware) retrofitted all of their older stuff as yet.

 

NEM alignment on Dapol is IMHO generally the best and most consistent of all the UK r-t-r brands. 

 

Bachmann have earned an unfortunate reputation for randomness in the height of their pockets. Many of their recent releases are much improved in this respect - straight rather than kinked tension lock coupler heads point to this. Kinked ones indicate the box is too high.

 

Hornby have been generally good since adopting NEM fittings but, on some items (in particular, tenders) pockets have drifted lower in recent times. Kadee users can overcome this by discarding the pocket and fixing the clip of the NEM Kadee  directly into the delta aperture with superglue. Losing the pocket generally means using the longest versions, #19 or #20.

 

John

Edited January 7, 2016 by Dunsignalling

[Dunsignalling]

 

 

In a day or so I should be able to report on how to convert a Kernow/DJM O2.  It looks easy, but I am still running it in.

#17 on the back (unless you are intending to shorten the pocket), #18 on the front.

 

John

[47137]

I habitually remove NEM mounts and fit Kadees with draft boxes (usually #146) unless it involves too much hacking about. I just prefer the action and appearance.

I think most people will agree with this after they have experienced some droopy NEM sockets. Here is a wagon I did yesterday evening, might be useful for anyone who is new to this:

 

This is actually a number 158 on an H0 scale wagon, but a number 146 is much the same to look at.

 

I left the other end of this wagon with its original Continental loop and hook design, so I can use this wagon to couple a train to a loco with these couplers. Building two of these wagons and running them as a pair lets them go into any train.

 

- Richard.

Edited January 7, 2016 by 47137

[Suzie]

Think about using a No16 as well, these can often be fitted in to tight spaces especially on Bachmann wagons with the fishtail NEM pocket at the wrong height. They just have a single central screw for mounting and can easily be fitted with a 2-56 plastic screw in a tapped hole. 

[TEAMYAKIMA]

I don't think # 5's are made any more .... replaced with the better whisker design .... my advice always go for the modern whisker design over the earlier versions.

 

I would never use a # 16 , horrible to fit  ... there will be a long version of the whisker design ........... I think it's the # 146 but don't my word for it

Edited January 7, 2016 by TEAMYAKIMA

[Dominion]

I have found uses for all 9 different sizes in the whisker range (141-149) for converting UK stock.

 

There are 3 lengths times 3 heights, and each one has been useful for different stock.  The 148 is the same height and length as a number 5, and the other 8 versions just position the coupling head in or out and up or down relative to that.

Once I have picked the most suitable coupler size, then for finer adjustment, I often put a little strip of smooth tape stuck to the inside of the front edge of the draft box below the coupling shank to just raise the head a fraction to match the height gauge well. Sometimes you may need a little packing between the wagon and the mounting box if you need to lower it.

 

I use 17-20 NEM style KDs if the stock is more modern and has a pocket.  Some of the incorrect height Bachmann NEM pockets can be managed just by putting the intermediate "fish tale" box in upside down.  

 

Tom

[47137]

3. What about old Hornby brake vans ? Has anybody had a go at fitting Kadees to these ?

I've dug out a Hornby R.098 LMS brake van. If this is the sort of thing you have in mind, I would cut off the entire moulded-on coupling and reduce the buffer beam to its proper height. Then lightly tack on a draft gear box to the underneath of the chassis and start with a #148. Looking at the amount of error in the height of the coupler, you could put some packing between the box and the underframe or go for an overset coupler or both.

 

Fitting slightly smaller wheels would improve the overall look, but do this change first if you feel it is worthwhile.

 

Edit: just realised, this is much what John suggested a few posts ago.

 

- Richard.

Edited January 7, 2016 by 47137

[Matt]

I've converted circa 300 wagons, 100 carriages and 100 locks from all makes to kadees. My experience although some similar to stated already:

 

Most Bachmann nem mounts require parking out with thin sliver of card to prevent droop.

 

Bachmann fishtail mounts are generally weakest point in system have had several fail in service in long rakes of wagons at the narrow bit between mounting and the pocket. Don't seem to have as many problems with others...

 

Dapol and Heljan nem pockets seem to have less issues with coupling drooping in pocket but several cases where pocket itself droops due the pivot mechanism. Heljan dogfish, Dapol China clays, covered steels Spring to mind. This sometimes can be remediated by packing out behind the centring spring or by tightening the screw although I seem to recall I had to shave plastic off the China clay tanks before remounting the pivot mechanism.

 

Don't actually have much Hornby but it does seem random as to whether a certain model is nem or not. Seacows being case in point relatively modern but no nem, and a pain to convert too... Not much probs with the nems themselves on their locos but occasional one needs sliver of card. Watch the pivot mechanism on the 60 and 56 though as has habit of derailing wagons although there is a simple fix

 

I am gradually moving away from nems towards 141 to 149s mentioned above. These are best imho. Most used are 146 and 141 on modern stock. Bachmann in particular have habit of mounting nem socket onto an articulated bogie thing on their long wheelbase wagons (oba, ota, vda etc) which is bad. I'm cutting off nems and locking the bogies in position before gluing a 141 (I think) onto the chassis. Fine down to 2nd rad curves so definitely don't need the articulation provided.

 

Have used suggestion above for inverting or even parking out nem fishtails in effort to correct Bachmann height issue but usually find they fail in end and go on to install 141 or 146.

 

Bachmann coaches mk1 and mK2 are particularly frustrating as they seem to vary just enough to cause problems. The bogie type on the mk1 affects the ride height (commonwealth vs br4) but even then enough variation to matter. The cam mechanism seems to ride up and down in service too which doesn't help... I've resorted to fixed bars in some rakes and still trying to solve others.

 

Hope this helps. For any specific conversion of stock likely seen post 1980 I've likely converted one if any questions!

 

M

[orford]

I have used Kadees exclusively and with complete success for over 40 years now and confess that I am finding some of the advice on this thread to be rather misleading.....

 

However, agree totally with all Matt says above (and also with one or two others - ie Dunsignalling, 47137, etc) - and in my own experience I would also offer the following:

 

Do NOT use No.5's for UK rolling stock (or any other 'medium' or 'short' shank types!) No.5's may be the 'old original' - but they were originally designed for USA stock, which does not have side buffers and they are no good at all for UK stock. The reason is that to operate correctly - and also to avoid the possibility of buffer lock - the rear flat inside face of the knuckle must be flush (or fractionally in advance of) the vehicle's buffer heads.  Using No.5's in that alignment results in a dirty great big section of the rectangular 'draft gear box' poking out from underrneath the buffer beam of the vehicle - which looks extremely poor at best and ridiculous at worst.

 

In my experience, you need only 5 types of Kadee to cover ALL UK coaching and wagon stock (locos sometimes do need other types, or a little more ingenuity).....

 

Kadee No.146's fit ALL standard UK 4 wheel wagons, simply by removing the original tension locks and their mounts (just carve them off with a sharp knife) and glueing the draft gear box directly to the underside of the wagon floor with styrene solvent, with the head of the coupler positioned as above in relation to the buffer heads. This automatically puts it 'spot-on' height-wise in 99% of cases....but do double check with a Kadee height gauge - odd vehicles may need shimming. Ensure no solvent leaks into the draft gear box, as this will glue the coupler up solid .....this is why the 146-type 'whisker' couplers are much better than the old No.46's (different and better sealed draft gear boxes). You will need to file off the top plastic 'ridge' at the front opening of the draft gear box (it's the ridge on the 'lid' of the box), so that the box will fit flush against the underside of the wagon floor.

 

Kadee No.141's fit 95% of all bogie stock (wagons and coaches) on the assumption you are going to fit them to the bogies - non-prototypical but will then operate better as (for example) they will couple on sharp curves, which body mounted Kadees will not on long bogie stock. The cranked shaft of the 141's will swing clear of the slightly deeper buffer beam found on most UK coach models. I find mounting to most bogies is quite simple, sometimes with the assistance of a bit of plastikard and/or Kadee delrin screws. If you prefer a body mount then either 141 or 146 will do the trick (but may need a little plastikard shim or packing piece).

 

If your vehicle is fitted with NEM pockets, then as mentioned earlier in this thread, Nos. 17, 18, 19 & 20 are the ones to use - although in practice I have found that Nos. 18 and 19 alone cover 95% of UK-outline models. Personally, I don't like the NEM couplers as they look bulkier and (to me) less realistic. So I personally tend to remove the NEM pockets and replace with the 146's and 141's, as above - except on locos, where they are a Godsend, operationally.

 

As I say - this is only my own long experience of using Kadees. Others may think differently. But it is what I would personally thoroughly recommend.

 

I would also offer the following advice:

 

(1) Plan your uncoupling locations very carefully in advance, unless using Kadee electro-uncouplers. You will need to plan carefully, to avoid some of the common pitfalls - such as uncoupling vehicles further back in the train unintentionally if you have two or more uncouplers in a single stretch of track. For example - if you have a magnet designed to take the loco off at the platform end of a terminus, ensure that any additional uncoupler magnets further back along the same platform track do not end up directly under the ends of coaches or wagons which are further back in the parked train! It's not that hard to work out placements - but it does need some careful forward planning. Consider too what trains you are actually going to be running - this can impact on the same thing. Sometimes, say two coaches (a GWR 'B' set would be a good example), or several wagons in a 'bulk' train can be 'permanently' coupled simply by chopping off the coupler 'trip pins', to avoid any problems. But don't forget to leave a trip pin on the two extreme ends!

 

(2) WEIGHT all goods rolling stock to NMRA standards! This is in my experience the single most helpful thing for successful and totally flawless Kadee operation, yet is something I have never seen mentioned in any of the articles about using Kadees in the British modelling press.  We have to remember that Kadees were originally designed to be used with American outline stock - which is almost exclusively of the bogie variety and by definition much heavier than our little 4-wheeled wagons. Whilst Kadees are usually fine just as they are for UK outline locos and bogie passenger coaches, they will almost always give trouble with short lightweight UK outline 4-wheeled goods stock, when used with permanent and 'delayed' uncoupling magnets, either by uncoupling when not required due to the wagon's axles being attracted over the uncoupling magnets, or by refusing to uncouple when this IS required (for essentially similar reasons). The simple solution is to weight ALL such wagons to NRMA standards. These standards can be found online but essentially, the vehicle weight should be half an ounce for each inch of the wagon's body length PLUS one ounce. Therefore a 4" long wagon should weigh 4 x half-ounces (=2 ounces) PLUS one ounce - so 3 ounces altogether. On this basis, a typical UK outline 4-wheeled box van should weigh approximately 2 1/8 ounces, or thereabouts - doesn't sound much but this is 3-4 times the weight of a typical Bachmann/Hornby RTR wagon, as supplied.

 

I can say with absolute honesty that since I weighted all of my UK outline rolling stock to NMRA standards about 4 years ago now I have never had the slightest reliability issue with Kadees, have NEVER since that time had any unwanted uncoupling and have NEVER since that time had a failed coupling or uncoupling, or failed delayed uncoupling. Prior to doing this, I had plenty. (All this assumes of course that everything else is also set up properly - such as coupling heights, freedom of swivel, etc).  But seriously - adding weight to these standards has made the most remarkable difference to the reliability of operation with Kadees for me....even if it did take me the best part of 40 years to finally work out the blindingly obvious! As a bonus, the additionally weighted wagons tend to 'ride' more solidly when weighted to NMRA standards, much more akin to the way a prototype wagon rolls.  Try it on a few vans - you will soon start to appreciate the difference. Self adhesive weights of 5gm and 10 gm can be bought on eBay and are ideal for most wagons (open and flat wagons sometimes require a little ingenuity - but box vans are easy). For tank wagons, use 'liquid lead' poured in through the tank filler (they can usually be carefully prised off fairly easily), followed by a shot of 'white' glue through the same hole to bond it all in place - it will set up in 24 hours or so.

 

Hope all this helps. As I say - just my own personal opinion ...but one based on many years experience.

Edited January 9, 2016 by orford

[orford]

Paul - To answer your question above about robustness, the short answer is 'don't worry'.  Kadees are extremely robust.  The very worst that could happen is that you pop a spring out, and those can readily be replaced. but even that is fairly rare.

Edited January 9, 2016 by orford

[BR60103]

Paul - To answer your question above about robustness, the short answer is 'don't worry'.  Kadees are extremely robust.  The very worst that could happen is that you pop a spring out, and those can readily be replaced. but even that is fairly rare.

Actually, I have broken Kadees by dropping cars coupler first on the floor. This breaks the end of the knuckle.

But after this, if you pull out the trip pin and the remaining bit of knuckle, you can use a small nail in the hole to couple it to a three-link.

[Removed a/c]

Heljan pockets tend to be a little off height wise also. 

[kevinlms]

I have used Kadees exclusively and with complete success for over 40 years now and confess that I am finding some of the advice on this thread to be rather misleading.....

 

However, agree totally with all Matt says above (and also with one or two others - ie Dunsignalling, 47137, etc) - and in my own experience I would also offer the following:

 

Do NOT use No.5's for UK rolling stock (or any other 'medium' or 'short' shank types!) No.5's may be the 'old original' - but they were originally designed for USA stock, which does not have side buffers and they are no good at all for UK stock. The reason is that to operate correctly - and also to avoid the possibility of buffer lock - the rear flat inside face of the knuckle must be flush (or fractionally in advance of) the vehicle's buffer heads.  Using No.5's in that alignment results in a dirty great big section of the rectangular 'draft gear box' poking out from underrneath the buffer beam of the vehicle - which looks extremely poor at best and ridiculous at worst.

 

In my experience, you need only 5 types of Kadee to cover ALL UK coaching and wagon stock (locos sometimes do need other types, or a little more ingenuity).....

 

Kadee No.146's fit ALL standard UK 4 wheel wagons, simply by removing the original tension locks and their mounts (just carve them off with a sharp knife) and glueing the draft gear box directly to the underside of the wagon floor with styrene solvent, with the head of the coupler positioned as above in relation to the buffer heads. This automatically puts it 'spot-on' height-wise in 99% of cases....but do double check with a Kadee height gauge - odd vehicles may need shimming. Ensure no solvent leaks into the draft gear box, as this will glue the coupler up solid .....this is why the 146-type 'whisker' couplers are much better than the old No.46's (different and better sealed draft gear boxes). You will need to file off the top plastic 'ridge' at the front opening of the draft gear box (it's the ridge on the 'lid' of the box), so that the box will fit flush against the underside of the wagon floor.

 

Kadee No.141's fit 95% of all bogie stock (wagons and coaches) on the assumption you are going to fit them to the bogies - non-prototypical but will then operate better as (for example) they will couple on sharp curves, which body mounted Kadees will not on long bogie stock. The cranked shaft of the 141's will swing clear of the slightly deeper buffer beam found on most UK coach models. I find mounting to most bogies is quite simple, sometimes with the assistance of a bit of plastikard and/or Kadee delrin screws. If you prefer a body mount then either 141 or 146 will do the trick (but may need a little plastikard shim or packing piece).

 

If your vehicle is fitted with NEM pockets, then as mentioned earlier in this thread, Nos. 17, 18, 19 & 20 are the ones to use - although in practice I have found that Nos. 18 and 19 alone cover 95% of UK-outline models. Personally, I don't like the NEM couplers as they look bulkier and (to me) less realistic. So I personally tend to remove the NEM pockets and replace with the 146's and 141's, as above - except on locos, where they are a Godsend, operationally.

 

As I say - this is only my own long experience of using Kadees. Others may think differently. But it is what I would personally thoroughly recommend.

 

I would also offer the following advice:

 

(1) Plan your uncoupling locations very carefully in advance, unless using Kadee electro-uncouplers. You will need to plan carefully, to avoid some of the common pitfalls - such as uncoupling vehicles further back in the train unintentionally if you have two or more uncouplers in a single stretch of track. For example - if you have a magnet designed to take the loco off at the platform end of a terminus, ensure that any additional uncoupler magnets further back along the same platform track do not end up directly under the ends of coaches or wagons which are further back in the parked train! It's not that hard to work out placements - but it does need some careful forward planning. Consider too what trains you are actually going to be running - this can impact on the same thing. Sometimes, say two coaches (a GWR 'B' set would be a good example), or several wagons in a 'bulk' train can be 'permanently' coupled simply by chopping off the coupler 'trip pins', to avoid any problems. But don't forget to leave a trip pin on the two extreme ends!

 

(2) WEIGHT all goods rolling stock to NMRA standards! This is in my experience the single most helpful thing for successful and totally flawless Kadee operation, yet is something I have never seen mentioned in any of the articles about using Kadees in the British modelling press.  We have to remember that Kadees were originally designed to be used with American outline stock - which is almost exclusively of the bogie variety and by definition much heavier than our little 4-wheeled wagons. Whilst Kadees are usually fine just as they are for UK outline locos and bogie passenger coaches, they will almost always give trouble with short lightweight UK outline 4-wheeled goods stock, when used with permanent and 'delayed' uncoupling magnets, either by uncoupling when not required due to the wagon's axles being attracted over the uncoupling magnets, or by refusing to uncouple when this IS required (for essentially similar reasons). The simple solution is to weight ALL such wagons to NRMA standards. These standards can be found online but essentially, the vehicle weight should be half an ounce for each inch of the wagon's body length PLUS one ounce. Therefore a 4" long wagon should weigh 4 x half-ounces (=2 ounces) PLUS one ounce - so 3 ounces altogether. On this basis, a typical UK outline 4-wheeled box van should weigh approximately 2 1/8 ounces, or thereabouts - doesn't sound much but this is 3-4 times the weight of a typical Bachmann/Hornby RTR wagon, as supplied.

 

I can say with absolute honesty that since I weighted all of my UK outline rolling stock to NMRA standards about 4 years ago now I have never had the slightest reliability issue with Kadees, have NEVER since that time had any unwanted uncoupling and have NEVER since that time had a failed coupling or uncoupling, or failed delayed uncoupling. Prior to doing this, I had plenty. (All this assumes of course that everything else is also set up properly - such as coupling heights, freedom of swivel, etc).  But seriously - adding weight to these standards has made the most remarkable difference to the reliability of operation with Kadees for me....even if it did take me the best part of 40 years to finally work out the blindingly obvious! As a bonus, the additionally weighted wagons tend to 'ride' more solidly when weighted to NMRA standards, much more akin to the way a prototype wagon rolls.  Try it on a few vans - you will soon start to appreciate the difference. Self adhesive weights of 5gm and 10 gm can be bought on eBay and are ideal for most wagons (open and flat wagons sometimes require a little ingenuity - but box vans are easy). For tank wagons, use 'liquid lead' poured in through the tank filler (they can usually be carefully prised off fairly easily), followed by a shot of 'white' glue through the same hole to bond it all in place - it will set up in 24 hours or so.

 

Hope all this helps. As I say - just my own personal opinion ...but one based on many years experience.

How do you get on with the magnets and steel tyres & axles, especially on 4-wheel wagons?