RMweb Gold jcarta Posted March 13, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 13, 2016 Good Evening Lee The 20 is looking incredible , you have done the class proud Personally, I leave it for a couple of days just to make sure the paint has harden, the last thing you want is to remove the tape and pull some of the yellow off especially after all the hard work that you have put into this, longer the better I would say..... I really should crack on with my tractor..... Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted March 27, 2016 Author Share Posted March 27, 2016 My previous questions regarding how long to wait before applying masking tape to painted surfaces was largely mute as work has managed to suitably get in the way of any loco modelling, that is until today. The class 20 has had the bogie brakegear added. This is a bit of a fiddly job but not as difficult as I had imagined. The point now though is that the wheels are definitely fixed in-situ as I cannot remove them because of the close proximity of the brake shoes: Following fitting the brake gear I managed to mask off the yellow and eventually get the BR Blue coat sprayed on the loco body: I'm rather pleased with the outcome as it is my first that I have done. There are two tiny areas where the blue bled beneath the masking tape, primarily because I had not pressed the masking tape into crevices/ corners. So I guess I shall at some point just paint over these problem areas using a brush. When it's all dry I shall spray with gloss varnish prior to applying the transfers which arrived last week too. It finally feels like I'm making a little progress again. Thanks for looking in Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted March 28, 2016 Author Share Posted March 28, 2016 While the class 20 is drying solid I decided I would make a start assembling the class 40 cabs and body work. This job took an eternity too as netiher of the cabs had a good fit to the assembled engine room and roof section... despite putting these sections together on a flat plate of glass It must have taken me about 4 hours to fettle the backs of the cabs so that I could get them to marry up well with the engine bay section. I guess it's time well spent but I still have quite a bit if sanding and filling ahead. Here's the cab join: With both cabs attached it soon becomes evident how big these locos are: Thanks for looking in Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted April 5, 2016 Author Share Posted April 5, 2016 Only a short update, but I can now report the class 20 is in BR blue with numbers/ decals added and a second gloss coat: I shall add one further gloss coat so that the decals have two coats to seal them which should (fingers crossed) protect them when I start weathering the loco. I have been having a go at building and painting a couple of Parkside wagons whose sole purpose is a test bed for the weathering. I'm quite nervous now about smothering the 20 in grime only to find that when I try to wipe a lot of that off it damages the loco too The class 40 is now in BR blue as well and awaiting it's first coat of gloss to allow me to put the decals on. I hope to have these done by the end of the week at which point my ABC gears might have turned up so that they can be fitted and I can start to put the loco together again. I really need to push on with the class 20 as although it looks almost finished there are still loads of little jobs to do.... hand rails, lights, headcode discs, windows, windscreeen wipers........ Vin/ Brian.... do you add the window rubbers on the 40's before adding the gloss coat? Thanks for looking in Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted April 5, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 5, 2016 Oooo, very nice there Lee, factory fresh... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 I would add the window rubbers before varnishing just incase you have to touch up at least the touch up will get the same varnish. Forgot to say, cracking job there. What number is the 40 going to be? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted April 5, 2016 Author Share Posted April 5, 2016 I would add the window rubbers before varnishing just incase you have to touch up at least the touch up will get the same varnish. Forgot to say, cracking job there. What number is the 40 going to be? Hi Brian, Thank you for the tip about window rubbers, I should do the surrounds on the 20 too before I add the last gloss coat. Coming from yourself that's a nice compliment There are a few niggles and things not 100% but for my 'first attempt' I'm quite pleased with how things are going. The 40 will be the one I attempted before... 40118. This time I shall finish it though Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Looks like you will finish yours before they finish the real one Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scouser999 Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Excellent job Lee! Coincidentally the original 118 as it is also in the throws of having a repaint. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vin Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Hi Lee, As Brian has already re-iterated do the rubbers first, because you can touch them up as you go! Both are looking great. Rrgards Vin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted April 6, 2016 Author Share Posted April 6, 2016 Excellent job Lee! Coincidentally the original 118 as it is also in the throws of having a repaint. Steve Hi Steve, Yes, hopefully the real 118 will be back on the rails soon. It will be good to see it running again after such a long time but from what I am told the restoration has been an A1 undertaking so she should look like new again. Hi Lee, As Brian has already re-iterated do the rubbers first, because you can touch them up as you go! Both are looking great. Rrgards Vin Thanks Vin, I'll be doing this job today with a marker pen. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted April 6, 2016 Author Share Posted April 6, 2016 After yesterdays post and realising I have lots of small jobs to do on the class 20 I thought it best to knuckle down and get as many as I could before I finish off with the gloss coat. I've managed to add the handrails (the rails themselves have had a coat of maskol after I took the photo), the cab front lighting, filing down the Shawplan etch fan, fitting the stanchions, seats and the cab window rubber surrounds using a permanent marker. I have to say this has been tidied up a bit as I wasn't that pleased with my first efforts to be honest: I was about to add the headcode discs and cab front handrails/ lamp irons too but then realised that these were a vastly different shade of yellow to the loco fronts. So I stripped these in cellulose thinners and will spray them tomorrow, first with a white primer then the Railmatch yellow... just as I have done with the fronts. I received my ABC gearboxes today too: After finishing with the class 20 for the day (waiting for paint to dry) I have spent a little time trying to fit the ABC gearboxes to the class 40 bogies. The gearboxes are quite small, certainly when compared with the Slaters equivalent so I will need to remove a little bit of the bogie housing in front of the motor and then pack out the rear to stop the gearboxes moving. It probably sounds a bit daft but without this it is difficult to get the motors through the cut-outs in the underframe and I have opted for the ABC gearboxes to try to alleviate cutting into the loco underframe. A test fit of the bogie housing and motor/ gearbox combination: A fair amount to do tomorrow and hopefully that will include the class 40 rubber window surrounds and then gloss coats to both locos. Thanks for looking in Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted April 8, 2016 Author Share Posted April 8, 2016 A productive day with the 40, fitting the gearboxes to the bogie frames and then to the loco under-frame. Having painted and pre-fitted the under-frame brake air tanks re-fitting was not such a trauma so these were added too: The loco was then wired and ran so well. Once again I wired the motors in series perhaps one day I shall try wiring in parallel to make a comparison: I'm quite pleased with how the class 40 is going together now and I certainly think the way forward is to use the ABC gearboxes, they went in like a dream and run so well. Not very much to report for a days work is it?? Thanks for looking in Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Hi Lee, I'm just awaiting delivery of my ABC gearbox for my little 14xx. On my JLTRT Western, I used Ron Chaplin gear boxes, now I believe part of the MSC range. They run beautifully and are extremely quiet, and well worth a look. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted April 9, 2016 Author Share Posted April 9, 2016 On my JLTRT Western, I used Ron Chaplin gear boxes, now I believe part of the MSC range. They run beautifully and are extremely quiet, and well worth a look. Hi Grumps, nice to see you popping in to see how these (slow) builds are going.... I'm certainly not up to the same speed as yourself I have just had a look at the MSC gearboxes and on the face of it they do look quite good. Perhaps I may order one to see how it fares with the JLTRT bogie and underframe positions.... I should join the GOG too I guess To date, as I have stated already, the ABC gearbox has proved to be really good in terms of not having to cut away lots of the underframe or main bogie housing. This has been a real benefit both in terms of how much faffing is needed but also not having to cut away large parts of the underframe on the class 40 as this makes it weaker. The Slaters gearbox requires lots of the frame to be carved out unless you tilt the gearbox forward a lot, which then means removing quite a large chunk of the bogie main frame. Swings and roundabouts I guess.... another nice factor about the MSC gearboxes is their price Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Hi Lee. Excellent progress. I have recently taken the plunge and moved into 7mm. I have some Heljan locos, but my all time favourite the 37 has been purchased from JLTRT. There are so many favourites to choose from it's difficult to decide, but she will be built as 111, mid eighties large logo :-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 Hi Lee. Excellent progress. I have recently taken the plunge and moved into 7mm. I have some Heljan locos, but my all time favourite the 37 has been purchased from JLTRT. There are so many favourites to choose from it's difficult to decide, but she will be built as 111, mid eighties large logo :-) Hi Lee, I had noticed that you were moving toward the 7mm side of things I hope that you will put your build on here of 111.... and I certainly don't envy you having to do the masking for the large logo stuff... I have no idea how you do it at all!!! Well, I've been a bit busy trying to get 20045 finished. Slowly but surely I'm getting there now: (sorry for the poor quality photos... it started to rain and I was rushing ) Just the windows to fit and a few spots of paint to add here and there to hide my errors Not perfect by any means but I'm quite pleased with it and I have learnt a lot which will help for my next builds. Thanks for looking in Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 That 20 looks fab. I really mustn't be tempted to get a pair..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 That 20 looks fab. I really mustn't be tempted to get a pair..... That's my next project Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 the 37 has been purchased from JLTRT. There are so many favourites to choose from it's difficult to decide, but she will be built as 111, mid eighties large logo :-) So Lee you won't build like this: More like this: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 That's the fella :-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 That's the fella :-) What do you use for the headlight?? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Pete Harvey does a very nice one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 A busy week Loco numbered and ready for another couple of gloss coats: There's still a lot to do but the jobs are getting less and less. Thanks for looking in Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold jcarta Posted April 12, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 12, 2016 Stunning..... Absolutely StunningNot only have you done the class proud but also the kits as well What chain did you use for the buffer beam pipework and where can I obtain it from Thank You for the posts ..... Extremely helpful Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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