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  • RMweb Gold

Good Evening Lee

 

The 20 is looking incredible , you have done the class proud :sungum:

 

Personally, I leave it for a couple of days just to make sure the paint has harden, the last thing you want is to remove the tape and pull some of the yellow off especially after all the hard work that you have put into this, longer the better I would say.....

 

I really should crack on with my tractor.....

 

Jim

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  • 2 weeks later...

My previous questions regarding how long to wait before applying masking tape to painted surfaces was largely mute as work has managed to suitably get in the way of any loco modelling, that is until today.

 

The class 20 has had the bogie brakegear added.  This is a bit of a fiddly job but not as difficult as I had imagined.  The point now though is that the wheels are definitely fixed in-situ as I cannot remove them because of the close proximity of the brake shoes:

 

post-4186-0-54591900-1459103454_thumb.jpg

 

Following fitting the brake gear I managed to mask off the yellow and eventually get the BR Blue coat sprayed on the loco body:

 

post-4186-0-80988000-1459103455_thumb.jpg

 

I'm rather pleased with the outcome as it is my first that I have done.  There are two tiny areas where the blue bled beneath the masking tape, primarily because I had not pressed the masking tape into crevices/ corners.  So I guess I shall at some point just paint over these problem areas using a brush.  When it's all dry I shall spray with gloss varnish prior to applying the transfers which arrived last week too.

 

It finally feels like I'm making a little progress again.

 

Thanks for looking in

Cheers

Lee

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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While the class 20 is drying solid I decided I would make a start assembling the class 40 cabs and body work.  This job took an eternity too as netiher of the cabs had a good fit to the assembled engine room and roof section... despite putting these sections together on a flat plate of glass  It must have taken me about 4 hours to fettle the backs of the cabs so that I could get them to marry up well with the engine bay section.

 

I guess it's time well spent but I still have quite a bit if sanding and filling ahead. Here's the cab join:

 

post-4186-0-71759500-1459161836_thumb.jpg

 

With both cabs attached it soon becomes evident how big these locos are:

 

post-4186-0-67465200-1459161835_thumb.jpg

 

Thanks for looking in

 

Cheers

Lee

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Only a short update, but I can now report the class 20 is in BR blue with numbers/ decals added and a second gloss coat:

 

post-4186-0-14708400-1459867341_thumb.jpg

 

I shall add one further gloss coat so that the decals have two coats to seal them which should (fingers crossed) protect them when I start weathering the loco.  I have been having a go at building and painting a couple of Parkside wagons whose sole purpose is a test bed for the weathering.  I'm quite nervous now about smothering the 20 in grime only to find that when I try to wipe a lot of that off it damages the loco too :(

 

The class 40 is now in BR blue as well and awaiting it's first coat of gloss to allow me to put the decals on.  I hope to have these done by the end of the week at which point my ABC gears might have turned up so that they can be fitted and I can start to put the loco together again.

 

post-4186-0-18282500-1459867672_thumb.jpg

 

post-4186-0-21576300-1459867671_thumb.jpg

 

I really need to push on with the class 20 as although it looks almost finished there are still loads of little jobs to do.... hand rails, lights, headcode discs, windows, windscreeen wipers........

 

Vin/ Brian.... do you add the window rubbers on the 40's before adding the gloss coat?

 

Thanks for looking in

 

Cheers

Lee

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I would add the window rubbers before varnishing just incase you have to touch up at least the touch up will get the same varnish.

 

Forgot to say, cracking job there. What number is the 40 going to be?

 

Hi Brian,

 

Thank you for the tip about window rubbers, I should do the surrounds on the 20 too before I add the last gloss coat.

 

Coming from yourself that's a nice compliment :)  There are a few niggles and things not 100% but for my 'first attempt' I'm quite pleased with how things are going.

 

The 40 will be the one I attempted before... 40118.  This time I shall finish it though :D

 

Cheers

Lee

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Excellent job Lee!

Coincidentally the original 118 as it is also in the throws of having a repaint.

 

Steve

Hi Steve,

 

Yes, hopefully the real 118 will be back on the rails soon.  It will be good to see it running again after such a long time but from what I am told the restoration has been an A1 undertaking so she should look like new again.

 

Hi Lee,

As Brian has already re-iterated do the rubbers first, because you can touch them up as you go!

Both are looking great.

 

Rrgards

Vin

 

Thanks Vin, I'll be doing this job today with a marker pen.

 

Cheers

Lee

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After yesterdays post and realising I have lots of small jobs to do on the class 20 I thought it best to knuckle down and get as many as I could before I finish off with the gloss coat.  I've managed to add the handrails (the rails themselves have had a coat of maskol after I took the photo), the cab front lighting, filing down the Shawplan etch fan, fitting the stanchions, seats and the cab window rubber surrounds using a permanent marker.  I have to say this has been tidied up a bit as I wasn't that pleased with my first efforts to be honest:

 

post-4186-0-43685200-1459969059_thumb.jpg

 

I was about to add the headcode discs and cab front handrails/ lamp irons too but then realised that these were a vastly different shade of yellow to the loco fronts.  So I stripped these in cellulose thinners and will spray them tomorrow, first with a white primer then the Railmatch yellow... just as I have done with the fronts.

 

I received my ABC gearboxes today too:

 

post-4186-0-06708100-1459969036_thumb.jpg

 

After finishing with the class 20 for the day (waiting for paint to dry) I have spent a little time trying to fit the ABC gearboxes to the class 40 bogies.  The gearboxes are quite small, certainly when compared with the Slaters equivalent so I will need to remove a little bit of the bogie housing in front of the motor and then pack out the rear to stop the gearboxes moving.  It probably sounds a bit daft but without this it is difficult to get the motors through the cut-outs in the underframe and I have opted for the ABC gearboxes to try to alleviate cutting into the loco underframe.  A test fit of the bogie housing and motor/ gearbox combination:

 

post-4186-0-73159300-1459969038_thumb.jpg

 

A fair amount to do tomorrow and hopefully that will include the class 40 rubber window surrounds and then gloss coats to both locos.

 

Thanks for looking in

 

Cheers

Lee

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A productive day with the 40, fitting the gearboxes to the bogie frames and then to the loco under-frame.  Having painted and pre-fitted the under-frame brake air tanks re-fitting was not such a trauma so these were added too:

 

post-4186-0-80903700-1460130081_thumb.jpg

 

The loco was then wired and ran so well.  Once again I wired the motors in series perhaps one day I shall try wiring in parallel to make a comparison:

 

post-4186-0-35735400-1460130080_thumb.jpg

 

I'm quite pleased with how the class 40 is going together now and I certainly think the way forward is to use the ABC gearboxes, they went in like a dream and run so well.

 

Not very much to report for a days work is it??

 

Thanks for looking in

 

Cheers

Lee

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Hi Lee,

I'm just awaiting delivery of my ABC gearbox for my little 14xx.

 

On my JLTRT Western, I used Ron Chaplin gear boxes, now I believe part of the MSC range. They run beautifully and are extremely quiet, and well worth a look.

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On my JLTRT Western, I used Ron Chaplin gear boxes, now I believe part of the MSC range. They run beautifully and are extremely quiet, and well worth a look.

 

 

Hi Grumps, nice to see you popping in to see how these (slow) builds are going.... I'm certainly not up to the same speed as yourself :)

 

I have just had a look at the MSC gearboxes and on the face of it they do look quite good.  Perhaps I may order one to see how it fares with the JLTRT bogie and underframe positions.... I should join the GOG too I guess  :imsohappy:

 

To date, as I have stated already, the ABC gearbox has proved to be really good in terms of not having to cut away lots of the underframe or main bogie housing.  This has been a real benefit both in terms of how much faffing is needed but also not having to cut away large parts of the underframe on the class 40 as this makes it weaker.  The Slaters gearbox requires lots of the frame to be carved out unless you tilt the gearbox forward a lot, which then means removing quite a large chunk of the bogie main frame.  Swings and roundabouts I guess.... another nice factor about the MSC gearboxes is their price :D

 

Cheers

Lee

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Hi Lee. Excellent progress. I have recently taken the plunge and moved into 7mm. I have some Heljan locos, but my all time favourite the 37 has been purchased from JLTRT. There are so many favourites to choose from it's difficult to decide, but she will be built as 111, mid eighties large logo :-)

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Hi Lee. Excellent progress. I have recently taken the plunge and moved into 7mm. I have some Heljan locos, but my all time favourite the 37 has been purchased from JLTRT. There are so many favourites to choose from it's difficult to decide, but she will be built as 111, mid eighties large logo :-)

Hi Lee,

 

I had noticed that you were moving toward the 7mm side of things :D

 

I hope that you will put your build on here of 111.... and I certainly don't envy you having to do the masking for the large logo stuff... I have no idea how you do it at all!!!

 

Well, I've been a bit busy trying to get 20045 finished.  Slowly but surely I'm getting there now:

 

post-4186-0-33578200-1460393823_thumb.jpg

 

post-4186-0-97171200-1460393825_thumb.jpg

 

post-4186-0-49359600-1460393829_thumb.jpg

(sorry for the poor quality photos... it started to rain and I was rushing :) )

 

Just the windows to fit and a few spots of paint to add here and there to hide my errors  :scratchhead: Not perfect by any means but I'm quite pleased with it and I have learnt a lot which will help for my next builds.

 

Thanks for looking in

 

Cheers

Lee

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the 37 has been purchased from JLTRT. There are so many favourites to choose from it's difficult to decide, but she will be built as 111, mid eighties large logo :-)

 

So Lee you won't build like this:

 

post-4186-0-49016100-1460401944_thumb.jpeg

 

More like this:

 

post-4186-0-12037000-1460401857_thumb.jpeg

 

:D

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  • RMweb Gold

Stunning..... Absolutely Stunning

Not only have you done the class proud but also the kits as well  :danced:

 

What chain did you use for the buffer beam pipework and where can I obtain it from

 

Thank You for the posts ..... Extremely helpful

 

Jim

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