BR(S) Posted June 15, 2015 Share Posted June 15, 2015 This may sound like a stupid question but as I've had my 128 unit for nearly 12 months I thought it was time that I should install a decide for it I've followed the instructions and removed the four screws and tried to remove the bodyshell but am I missing something as it won't come off at all? If anyone can help I would very much appreciate the help. Cheers Colin The bodies are very tight against the chassis on this model. I had the same trouble with mine; just put something between the body and the chassis in several places (I use pieces of cardboard) and then use some brute force! Mind you don't break the exhaust pipes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold CovDriver Posted June 16, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 16, 2015 Many thanks I'll try again today and see what happens. Cheers Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CloggyDog Posted September 25, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 25, 2015 My pair of bargain blue M55990s arrived from Hattons yesterday, only a few in-transit dislodgings of sandboxes and both fuel tank drums. The latter quickly glued back in place, but I wasn't convinced that all the GRCW DPU/128s had sandboxes, so I've started pulling together a dated list of details. Still a work in progress, but preliminary findings show that the LMR quartet were never fitted with sandboxes (range of photos from new to withdrawn) Of the WR sextet, I think most had sandboxes from new (or almost new) but the latest dated photo of one still with sandboxes is 55993 in May 1979. So don't be too hasty to stick the dislodged sandboxes back on, especially on LMR, Red Star or Post Office Red ones! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waveydavey Posted September 25, 2015 Share Posted September 25, 2015 I've used a load of Heljan spares in combination with some Lima bits on my conversion of a Lima 121 into a 122 on a Replica chassis. One thing that niggles though is that Heljan have the fluid couplings and gearboxes mounted on the vehicle centre line. My impression is that most, if not all, DMUs had the drive offset to one side. Anybody know if the 128s had the drive on the centre line or offset? Cheers David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CloggyDog Posted October 5, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 5, 2015 55991 Doncaster Works October 89 Slide 7971.jpg Here's a little something from me, 55591 at Doncaster Works in October 89. BV, may I query the date of your pic, please?? I have 55991 in Post Office Red in Oct 88, assuming the caption on this pic is correct: https://www.flickr.com/photos/40011/6204021013 I'm (slowly) pulling together a database of the 10 GRCW DPU/Class 128s, based on dated and clear photos. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonbaker1966 Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 I recently purchased a class 128 from Hattons and installed a Lenz Silver Plus decoder. However after a few circuits of my layout it just grinds to a halt. The lights on the model remain on but it just does not budge. However if I turn off the power and then turn it back on the model will move. Any advice will be gratefully received. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 Easy first thing to try: perform a decoder reset, and see if the problem just goes away. That's my standard approach to any glitches in DCC. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ruggedpeak Posted January 24, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 24, 2016 Got a Scooby Doo but the inner wheels of the trailing end keep derailing on curves (wider than the stated 15" min radius) as it appears the pre-installed pipes catch the NEM pocket, and possibly also the propshafts catching the rear of the bogie. I am hoping removal of the NEM's will solve it. Anyone else experienced this? And before I snap something, to get the bogies off do I take the body off first? Thanks. EDIT: did look through the thread but gave up after getting bogged in the discussions about model rail mags! Apologies if it has been mentioned already. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold pheaton Posted January 28, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 28, 2016 Tony, I suspect its the nem pocket clipping the vac hoses.....before taking the body off and swearing as most of the underframe comes off with it.....try trimming a couple of mm off the vac hoses Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ruggedpeak Posted January 28, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 28, 2016 Tony, I suspect its the nem pocket clipping the vac hoses.....before taking the body off and swearing as most of the underframe comes off with it.....try trimming a couple of mm off the vac hoses Thanks, will give it a go Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
meurglys3 Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 Mine was the same, I just GENTLY pulled the vac pipes forward, away from the nem pockets with tweezers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ruggedpeak Posted March 21, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 21, 2016 Mine was the same, I just GENTLY pulled the vac pipes forward, away from the nem pockets with tweezers. Did they bend and stay in situ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
meurglys3 Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 Did they bend and stay in situ?Yes, they are fine. I made sure I was very careful and bend them forward just enough to clear the nem pockets.Very happy with the 128, I wish all my locos ran as well as this does. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RANGERS Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 I've never removed the body of mine for a closer inspection but is the chassis on this likely to be of any use for other DMUs? I'm thinking a long frame DC kit - 114/ 119/ 120 etc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
metropolitan cammell Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 The Heljan 128 chassis is not really suitable for anything else dmu like as the chassis block more or less fills the entire body unless you are happy not to have any interior detail and chassis showing the through the windows. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ragtag Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 Haven't looked myself either, but weren't replica working on a chassis for just that purpose? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted April 10, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 10, 2016 That'll be this http://www.replicarailways.co.uk/die-cast-chassis They had a couple on their stand at Trainwest but didn't ask about availability Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RANGERS Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 Haven't looked myself either, but weren't replica working on a chassis for just that purpose? They were and have produced some in the past but I don't believe any of the variants are currently available. Also, the 128 chassis comes complete with engine and underframe detail which is hard to equal. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold adb968008 Posted April 10, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 10, 2016 That'll be thishttp://www.replicarailways.co.uk/die-cast-chassisThey had a couple on their stand at Trainwest but didn't ask about availabilityPhil They were on the stand at ally pally. I was thinking about taking the motor from one of these for use in a diesel brake tender Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waveydavey Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Replica have 57' chassis's available at the moment at £54.95 each. The 64' version is out of stock at the moment (I bought the last one at the DEMU Showcase exhibition last year) but a further batch is in the pipeline. Heljan 128 spares including engines etc are available from Howes but you need to study DMU underframe details very carefully to get them right. Cheers David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rembrow Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 If the original Dapol spec is maintained, the forthcoming 'oo' Class 121/122 bubble cars are due to have under seating twin bogie drive. Being 63ft length and closely related to the Class 128 they could be suitable as a transplant with similar underframe gear and for use in other long wheelbase dmus, however the price might be prohibitive to use at full price. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waveydavey Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 121/122 underframe equipment is arranged differently to that on the 128. Even the 121 and 122 are different. There's a lot more to DMU undergubbins than 'two engines and some battery boxes'. It's one of the few areas of D&E modelling that modellers don't seem to be very switched on to yet. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiket4 Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 Looking at getting a 128 from Hattons for my layout set in the late 80's to early 90's. Should i go for W55992 in blue or W55991 in Royal mail livery. Regards Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Removed a/c Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 I went for both You won't be disappointed which ever one you choose, they are superb. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
87023Velocity Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 Looking at getting a 128 from Hattons for my layout set in the late 80's to early 90's. Should i go for W55992 in blue or W55991 in Royal mail livery. Regards Mark I would say the Royal Mail version. I remember seeing a pair at Warrington Bank Quay around 1989 and they were both in Royal Mail livery. Cheers Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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