davefrk Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Hi all, thought you might like to see the latest test chassis for the Fowler tender, made to fit kit and the Bachmann tenders (minor bit of surgery required) You can see the clutter under the tender, notice the righthand group of stretcher rivets not in the right place on the Bachman tender.. The waterscoop detail, a generic waterscoop to see how it looks, I'll be casting my own. An underside view showing the frame stretchers and waterscoop balance weights. The guard irons are fitted, I forgot on the Stanier tender.... Regards, Dave F. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kempenfelt Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Thanks Dave, That's latest post has just answered my wishes! I was commenting only last night about how good the Stanier chassis looked and that all I wanted now was a Fowler underframe to go with it! I assume it can be built with or without the water scoop gear? The Fowler u/f is probably higher up the shopping list in the immediate future as I would like to use one on my embryonic BM 4f build. However i'm sure I could lose a handful of both types of your chassis's under my collection of future projects! Now that you've covered a large proportion of my future builds you deserve a well earned rest and a drink! However if you're getting bored I'm sure I can point a few more prototypes in your direction! Best Wishes Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davefrk Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Hi Paul, thanks for that, the Fowler chassis can be built left or right hand drive (hand brake and waterscoop standards reversed) or just leave off the parts and remove both the pull rods for a non scoop fitted one. Other prototypes have been looked at and are in progress, including an alternative Stanier/Ivatt 4000 gal tender chassis. All the best, Dave F. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G Posted January 19, 2011 Author Share Posted January 19, 2011 Dave Thanks for posting those wonderful pictures...my poor, aching credit card is having spasms! But back to the real thread for a moment... I've got the connecting rods on as you will have noticed from the last picture I posted. What that picture didn't show was that everything locked up when pushing back and forth. This was down to 2 reasons: 1. One of the pistons was too long and striking the back/front of the cylinders. 2. Because the cylinders had to be opened out the slide bars were in the way of allowing the connecting rods to pass without striking them. So, out with the P4 modelling file - a no1 b**tard cut - and a minute or two later...I have not had to alter the slide bars in length, merely filed a chamfer on the lower bar to allow the connecting rod to pass. Its only 2.5 mm long and cannot be seen - so far. The next problem became apparent when fitting the crosshead arm to the crosshead...I'd made up the valve gear months ago, but hadn't looked at since I built it. If I had, I'd have noticed that valve rod and combining link had been joined the correct way on one side, but not so on the other. Now I solder the NS rivets in on my valve gear, so this was going to be nasty. But all was well, except for the burning sensation that has passed through my finger tips - sometimes there's just no avoiding that. Where am I now? The pick ups are on, I've still to connect up the valve gear properly and I've got to sort out a good way of tender to engine connection...oh and put some coal in the tender! Sounds so easy! Yeah, right! Still going though, just taking my time and solving one problem at a time. And I've started my Albatross...Ivan you may be right. If anyone's interested in a GWR County build from a Falcon brass body kit, let me know and I'll start another thread. I don't think it would be right to carry on on this thread. regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45609 Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 I've got to sort out a good way of tender to engine connection... Hi Mike, Perhaps the style of tender connection I illustrated here maybe helpful to you? http://www.rmweb.co....=38793&start=25 Also I agree with you about Dave's exciting new products. It won't help me give up my etched kit addiction any time soon. Cheers....Morgan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 .....And I've started my Albatross...Ivan you may be right. If anyone's interested in a GWR County build from a Falcon brass body kit, let me know and I'll start another thread. .... That would be a good idea. Most people never really show their Falcon-based efforts, so yours would be useful. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy G Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 Definitely interested in the County build. Falcon is one of those that you hear bad rumours about but very rarely find anybody who's actually attempted one. Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 ....Falcon is one of those that you hear bad rumours about but very rarely find anybody who's actually attempted one. Ha. The "Modified Hall" kit - of which I used the cab and footplate etchings, and that was about all I could use . Boiler / firebox all wrong (replaced by Malcolm Mitchell etchings). Front framing all wrong. Chassis not very spring-friendly (replaced by last-generation Perseverance). By contrast, Falcon's Hawksworth tender kit was and is a lovely straightforward thing - note that if you don't have a Hawksworth "County" to go with it, then you do have to saw out 2mm of the centre section to get the correct 8-foot width. Castings are good ones. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G Posted February 1, 2011 Author Share Posted February 1, 2011 Well, been a while since I last posted anything to do with the Royal Scot build. I'm pleased to say that she is finished..other than weathering...everything passes everything else, no jamming and no shorting out. I should qualify that by saying that on my 18 inch test track that it doesn't short! All the problems on final assembly where of my own making and not reviewing things that had been built some months before. I suppose the biggest question as to whether a kit is a success, is would I build another? OHH YES! I certainly would, this may not have the finesse of a Brasmasters kit but then it didn't take 300 hours to build. More importantly, I had a hell of a lot of pleasure from building it. Can you ask more? I don't think so. End of the day, it's mine and I am thrilled with the end result. So a big thank you to those folks at Comet for producing a superb kit, that I have utterly enjoyed. I hope you enjoy the last few pictures. So a few plastic card mods were needed to make everything stable. The frame for the valve gear to hang off was moving around and sitting low in the chassis. This was because I'd had to cut out a couple of mm across the stretcher to get it to fit across the uncreased width of the chassis. Same applies to the cylinders and the rear of the chassis were it mates with the body. No dramas, just working through the problems and trying to come up with a good, practical solutions. Having got the footplate level, made sure that the springing was in fact springing and not 'flat' lining - that would have been difficult to resolve, as it would mean cutting out the wire in the GA units and moving them all down one notch to give the desired effect. Thanks to everyone who's contributed to this thread, I've really enjoyed the diversity and thanks to the moderators for some latitude in 'disappearing off topic' for a while. regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonesome_whistle Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Very nice work Mike. How's the County project going on? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G Posted February 1, 2011 Author Share Posted February 1, 2011 Very nice work Mike. How's the County project going on? Ahhh, that's a fish of a different sort altogether. I've had to buy a bucket load of different size brass angle and sheet and ask for the help of one of my 7mm modeller friends - someone who's used to putting together brass rolled boilers - does that give you an indication of progress? Other than that...fortunately a few good folk on here (- thanks Ozzyo) sent me some good drawings of the beast so I'm having fun scratch building bits and pieces...painfully slow. Enjoyable but flaming slow...not known to be particularly patient person. As soon as I've started to get some where that's half recognisable as a body I'll start a new thread. Thanks for the compliment.. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ikks Posted February 2, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 2, 2011 tHANKS SO MUCH FOR THIS, A GREAT TOPIC, USEFUL INFO AND INTERESTINING CONTRIBUTIONS. RGDS.....MIKE Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 tHANKS SO MUCH FOR THIS, A GREAT TOPIC, USEFUL INFO AND INTERESTINING CONTRIBUTIONS. RGDS.....MIKE Turn your caps lock off and stop shouting. I will get the other drawing to you soon. OzzyO Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted February 2, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 2, 2011 .....would I build another? OHH YES! I certainly would, this may not have the finesse of a Brasmasters kit but then it didn't take 300 hours to build. More importantly, I had a hell of a lot of pleasure from building it. Can you ask more? I don't think so. End of the day, it's mine and *I am thrilled with the end result. So a big thank you to those folks at Comet for producing a superb kit, that I have utterly enjoyed. I hope you enjoy the last few pictures. Thanks to everyone who's contributed to this thread, I've really enjoyed the diversity and thanks to the moderators for some latitude in 'disappearing off topic' for a while. regards Mike Great looking job Mike. I can just see that thundering around with a rake of Comet M's ex LMS Coaches. May I suggest you contact Geoff at Comet M's and ask if he would consider putting the pic/a pic of your loco on the website? May I just wish you the very best of luck with your 'other' loco - brave lad! *Your comment (my edit in bold) says it all really. Sincerely, 36E Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davefrk Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 Hi Mike, great job, so how about a Caprotti Five to pilot it with on the 'Thames-Clyde' that would be my next job once I get everything else finished.... All the best, Dave F. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ikks Posted February 4, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 4, 2011 Apologies Ozzyo, did not mean to shout, just so carried away by this brilliant thread, I did not check my text before submitting........I think we may live in the same distant land!! Rgds...........Mike (caps lock off!!!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chopshopjohn Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 Very nice but please set the return cranks at the correct angle. On the side-on view it looks as though the return crank pin, axle and crank pin are in a straight line. The function of the return crank is to provide motion 90 degrees out of phase with the crank pin. With the crank pin at the 'bottom' as shown the return crank should be angled towards the cylinder sufficient that a line from the return crank pin to the axle centre is at right angles to a line from the axle centre to the crank pin. NOTE: This applies on BOTH sides of the locomotive. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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