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TimC's 7mm BR Blue Workbench - JLTRT BR CCT


TimC
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Tim

 

No I didn't add any more weight to mine it runs just fine with it. I suspect that once you have yours all squared up it will run fine too without any further adjustment. These kits make a very nice model, so does their GUV kit, I have done 3 of those. I have also made several of the slaters southern vans, they make a very nice blue parcel van too and ran until 79 for the larger guards vans and about 84 for the plvs so perfect for our time frame and they could seen everywhere on the system.

 

Richard

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Tim

 

No I didn't add any more weight to mine it runs just fine with it. I suspect that once you have yours all squared up it will run fine too without any further adjustment. These kits make a very nice model, so does their GUV kit, I have done 3 of those. I have also made several of the slaters southern vans, they make a very nice blue parcel van too and ran until 79 for the larger guards vans and about 84 for the plvs so perfect for our time frame and they could seen everywhere on the system.

 

Richard

 

Hi Richard

 

Yes, I really like the blue era parcels before the collect and deliver service ended in 1981. I've got some GUVs (Westdale) and a Slaters Van B and 4w PLV to build. At Telford this year, I am also going to have a good look at the CRT Kits SR PLV/CCTs as they do the uneven planked and plywood versions.

 

Cheers

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  • 3 months later...
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Nothing very interesting to report on my front. Most of my modelling time has gone toward Somerset Lane projects and I'm only now getting back to my CCTs. Last night I took the first one, which only has a few bits left to add and a paint job to complete, for a test around the Avon GOG test track (motive power courtesy of Paul's North London Tank). I'm happy with the running now that it is packed up level and in my view there is no need for additional springing or other compensation. As an aside It was good to see TTG last night down the Avon GOG club rooms with his Easybuild Class 108 - I must get back to my Cravens DMU at some point (though there a few other projects I'm keen to push on with first......)

 

post-7686-0-72592900-1349938535_thumb.jpg

 

I'm currently progressing through the builds of the second and third CCT following the lessons I've learned from the first one. I am wondering whether I'm going to get some decent weather before winter sets in for painting them but if they have to wait, then they'll have to wait.

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Was good to see you again Tim with the CCT. Nice brake gear, seems you have done it right.

 

After seeing yours it's very much on the shopping list now.

 

As for the 108, repaint of the interior of one coach then get on and put primer on. May be looking even better for the next get together down by the river.

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  • 3 months later...
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Jeez - Its been a while since I've posted anything on my workbench thread. I'll try and get a bit more organised with some photos over the coming weeks.

 

The 3 CCTs are now awaiting paint shops - they are 99% complete just a little bit of fettling to get the roofs to fit on no's 2&3 and post painting work like the glazing to do. I'll take them down to the next AGOG meeting for a spin around the test track.

 

Over Christmas, I started 3 JLTRT Class 37s. I plan to build the bodies in parallel then I'll tackle each chassis in turn. These will be 37088, 37187 and 37210 - all in circa 1981 condition. Progress to date has been slow as I've tied up with helping to sort out the forthcoming Sodbury Vale MRC Show in Yate, on 26 January 2013. I'm hoping to get a better run at my modelling projects once the show is over.

 

Somerset Lane is finished (well all my bits are finished.....) and, as we've no immediate plans for another layout, I've got a few projects in mind to do during club time in the near future - so watch this space.

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Brian Daniels Mk2 is it Tim. Got a production line going knocking out JLTRT kits. Whats on the list for next week. :rolleyes:

I wish! Brian would have cleared my kit backlog in a blink of an eye compared to my speed of progress. Maybe whats on the list for next year....

Edited by TimC
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  • 5 months later...

Tim,

I discovered this splendid forum yesterday while searching for some information about the JLTRT CCT. I have found this kit to be very frustrating. The instructions are not worthy of such a description, I had to ask for missing parts to be sent and the whitemetal castings, especially the battery boxes, required much effort to make them presentable. After a lot of work it is starting to resemble the prototype. I have a JLTRT GWR Fruit D waiting to be built and I hope it is easier than the CCT. Then it will be on to the Class 25; I still find it odd that Heljan has not produced a Rat.

 

The section about the EasyBuild DMU very helpful as I have a Class 108 waiting to enter the works.

 

Do you use DCC? Most of my 7mm scale locos are fitted with DCC sound, but I am still unconvinced by the steam offerings. The diesels are better and my Hymek brings pleasant memories of the west end of platform 12 at Bristol Temple Meads in the early Seventies. However, I am considering stripping out the DCC and reverting to DC. I would be interested in your thoughts.

 

Regards,

 

Chris Klein

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I have a JLTRT GWR Fruit D waiting to be built and I hope it is easier than the CCT.

 

Chris Klein

 

Probably not what you want to hear Chris, having bought the JLTRT kit, but the WEP kit for the Fruit D is a very nicely designed etched-brass kit, has a very good set of instructions and is a straightforward build. Nice touches include the ends and end sections of the sides, which are one piece - so no problem assembling the corners, just a couple of folds.

 

Chaz

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Have a look at my build of the JLTRT Fruit D http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/1458-brians-7mm-diesel-workbench-mousa-models-conflat-l/page-21&do=findComment&comment=364823 This was a pre-production model so I do not know if anything is changed from this. I did have to make my own light switch handle on the end. It does make a nice model but as with all their vans I think the roof has a bit of a large overhang to it. It's unfortunate but yes, the JLTRT instructions are a bit of a challenge at times.

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Tim,

I discovered this splendid forum yesterday while searching for some information about the JLTRT CCT. I have found this kit to be very frustrating. The instructions are not worthy of such a description, I had to ask for missing parts to be sent and the whitemetal castings, especially the battery boxes, required much effort to make them presentable. After a lot of work it is starting to resemble the prototype. I have a JLTRT GWR Fruit D waiting to be built and I hope it is easier than the CCT. Then it will be on to the Class 25; I still find it odd that Heljan has not produced a Rat.

The section about the EasyBuild DMU very helpful as I have a Class 108 waiting to enter the works.

Do you use DCC? Most of my 7mm scale locos are fitted with DCC sound, but I am still unconvinced by the steam offerings. The diesels are better and my Hymek brings pleasant memories of the west end of platform 12 at Bristol Temple Meads in the early Seventies. However, I am considering stripping out the DCC and reverting to DC. I would be interested in your thoughts.

Regards,

Chris Klein

Hi Chris

 

I must get back to this thread once I've returned from sailing (I'm typing this in Seaport Marina, Inverness having been in Orkney for the last month).

 

My CCTs are awaiting paint shop. I have to admit to not using the instructions, Brian D's builds on RMweb are much easier to follow! I've got a fruit D too, the body is already done with just the under frame to finish. I know some don't like the white metal u/f from JLTRT but as long as it runs well and look the part then I'm ok with them. No kits are perfect so I'm happy to make do and add detail if necessary. A lot of Brian's work is on the earlier version of RMweb - it's well worth the look, especially if your interested in JLTRT kits.

 

The Cravens DMU was a frustration and it remains incomplete even though I solved the motor gearbox issue which was the source of the problem. It needs the interior doing so maybe this winter it'll find it's way onto the bench again.

 

I use DCC but my partner in crime at my local model railway club is firmly DC only so I have a mix at the moment. After a couple of recent exhibitions I've been to where there have been several layouts competing on the DCC sound front I'm thinking twice about fitting sound to (all) my locos. It now depends on whether a particular loco is for a club project/ private project as to whether it gets chipped. Saying that I really like the controllability and lack of section switches DCC provides.

 

Once I'm back in August I'll get my act together wrt this thread!

 

Cheers,

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Hi Tim,

 

Must catch up with you down by the river side once we are both back in the vicinity of the club. 

 

I am down on the French Spanish border hopping between St. Jean de Luz and San Sebastian on SNCF and the private Spanish metro system that runs from Hendaye to places in Spain. Very slick operation called Eusko Tren.

 

As for the 108, I have put DCC sound and lights in mine if anyone is interested and all my O gauge fleet is DCC sound fitted.

 

See you in August Tim :)

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  • 4 months later...
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Well the CCTs got finished and I will get some piccies on here soon.

 

Modelling wise I have been tackling a part kit/scratch build of a 7mm Ruston 88DS and given its not going to be BR blue I've started a new thread to cover my industrial interests.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/78470-timcs-7mm-industrial-workbench-ruston-88ds/?p=1220494

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Hi Tim!

Iooking forward to seeing your CCT van pics as the ones you have posted so far are proving invaluable to me building mine, I certainly echo the comments of others about the quality of this kit, the instructions are near useless and ive had to replace numerous parts and do considerable cleaning up on other castings to make them acceptable, rant over and keep up the good work.

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OK, grabbed a few snaps of my 3 CCTs this morning (the low sun was a bit harsh)...

 

post-7686-0-19965300-1384103191_thumb.jpg

 

post-7686-0-62694000-1384103197_thumb.jpg

 

post-7686-0-13508800-1384103213_thumb.jpg

 

I had to spend ages fettling to get the roofs to fit/sit down and they are not perfect now.  In an ideal world, the sides and roof would be one unit and then bolted onto the floor/chassis but that is not how the kit is designed.  If I had known what I know now I might have made them that way.  At some stage I may revisit these and do some filling/touching up around the roofs to improve matters further. 

 

Painting was with JLTRT rattle can, transfers were HMRS Pressfix and then airbrushed weathering before I fitted the glazing.  The glazing is from Extreme Etchings and these flush fitting laser cut units really set the vehicle off for me (flush glazing is one of my modelling hobby horses). I normally dirty the windows with MIG powders but these glazing units didn't seen to retain the powder as well as the normal clear plasticard I use so I'll have to have a think about how to dirty them further. In time I'll also add some chalk scrawl on the sides and a bit more weathering but they'll so for now.

 

post-7686-0-79629700-1384103234_thumb.jpg

 

I have left off the vacuum and steam heat pipes as these vehicles will be fitted with some sort of auto-coupler in time and I'll fit the pipes once I know what space I have left. 

 

While the kit needs a few extra bits and some effort they do build up into a good model. Overall, I'm very happy with them.

 

My next few projects are likely to be industrial before I get back onto matters requiring blue paint....  

 

 

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OK, grabbed a few snaps of my 3 CCTs this morning (the low sun was a bit harsh)...

 

post-7686-0-19965300-1384103191_thumb.jpg

 

post-7686-0-62694000-1384103197_thumb.jpg

 

post-7686-0-13508800-1384103213_thumb.jpg

 

I had to spend ages fettling to get the roofs to fit/sit down and they are not perfect now.  In an ideal world, the sides and roof would be one unit and then bolted onto the floor/chassis but that is not how the kit is designed.  If I had known what I know now I might have made them that way.  At some stage I may revisit these and do some filling/touching up around the roofs to improve matters further. 

 

Painting was with JLTRT rattle can, transfers were HMRS Pressfix and then airbrushed weathering before I fitted the glazing.  The glazing is from Extreme Etchings and these flush fitting laser cut units really set the vehicle off for me (flush glazing is one of my modelling hobby horses). I normally dirty the windows with MIG powders but these glazing units didn't seen to retain the powder as well as the normal clear plasticard I use so I'll have to have a think about how to dirty them further. In time I'll also add some chalk scrawl on the sides and a bit more weathering but they'll do for now.

 

post-7686-0-79629700-1384103234_thumb.jpg

 

I have left off the vacuum and steam heat pipes as these vehicles will be fitted with some sort of auto-coupler in time and I'll fit the pipes once I know what space I have left. 

 

While the kit needs a few extra bits and some effort they do build up into a good model. Overall, I'm very happy with them.

 

My next few projects are likely to be industrial before I get back onto matters requiring blue paint....  

Edited by TimC
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  • 3 years later...
  • 7 months later...

 

Not had a lot of time to get the JLTRT CCT progressed but he is where I am at the moment.

 

The instructions are a series of photos with some basic narrative. I'm not too keen on them as they jump around a bit and things like putting in the window bars before painting will mean that fitting the glazing will then not be easy, especially as I have some Shawplan Laserglaze for these vehicles and it needs to be carefully manipulated to get in right. Hence, I've not really followed them and just approached it logically - roof, sides, ends, underframe etc.

 

The roof is not too challenging, - just stick the ventilators on.

 

attachicon.gifDSCN1755.JPG

 

However, when I was looking at pictures of the vehicle ends, I noticed that my chosen vehicles had BR shell vents and not the BR dome vents supplied. Having had a good look on the net, I can't find any CCTs with all dome vents, so off they came and I fitted some Sidelines ones I had in another (unstarted) kit. Having had a look in my other two kits, one has BR dome vents and the other has what looks like the ridged BR dome vents, ho-hum.... Anyway not too difficutl to fix.

 

attachicon.gifDSCN1805.JPG

 

The ends of the JLTRT CCT are missing the vertical locking bar and handle. I've added some brass strip and wire to represent these. I''ve been trying to get the clips around the locking bar to look right but everything I've tried to date looks too chunky so I'll revisit this later (I haven't yet tried a sliver of sticky paper label and hope that the paint seals it and keeps it fixed in the years to come). I used some Laurie Griffin cast lamp irons rather than the whitemetal ones that come in the kit, they are not really 100% accurate but they look the part.

 

Not much to do to the sides except add the hand rails. It is a bit strange that there are no drilling marks for the hand rails - its up to you to work out where they go. I've worked off photos and have noted the measurements that I've used so thet other two will be consistent. Also there is a hand rail on the extreme right hand end of the sides that is really part of the vehicle end (that is not mentioned in the instructions).

 

attachicon.gifDSCN1802.JPG

 

The underframe castings have taken quite a bit of cleaning up, the buffers especially. There are some components missing that Brian Daniels highlighted in his build.

 

attachicon.gifDSCN1804.JPG

 

Thats about where I'm at, I need to scratch build these fittings to complete the brake linkages.

 

So glad you put this picture of the underside up,  the JLTRT Instructions are a total disgrace & without your picture I would have been clueless how to fix the brake gear, well done & thanks.

Not had a lot of time to get the JLTRT CCT progressed but he is where I am at the moment.

 

The instructions are a series of photos with some basic narrative. I'm not too keen on them as they jump around a bit and things like putting in the window bars before painting will mean that fitting the glazing will then not be easy, especially as I have some Shawplan Laserglaze for these vehicles and it needs to be carefully manipulated to get in right. Hence, I've not really followed them and just approached it logically - roof, sides, ends, underframe etc.

 

The roof is not too challenging, - just stick the ventilators on.

 

attachicon.gifDSCN1755.JPG

 

However, when I was looking at pictures of the vehicle ends, I noticed that my chosen vehicles had BR shell vents and not the BR dome vents supplied. Having had a good look on the net, I can't find any CCTs with all dome vents, so off they came and I fitted some Sidelines ones I had in another (unstarted) kit. Having had a look in my other two kits, one has BR dome vents and the other has what looks like the ridged BR dome vents, ho-hum.... Anyway not too difficutl to fix.

 

attachicon.gifDSCN1805.JPG

 

The ends of the JLTRT CCT are missing the vertical locking bar and handle. I've added some brass strip and wire to represent these. I''ve been trying to get the clips around the locking bar to look right but everything I've tried to date looks too chunky so I'll revisit this later (I haven't yet tried a sliver of sticky paper label and hope that the paint seals it and keeps it fixed in the years to come). I used some Laurie Griffin cast lamp irons rather than the whitemetal ones that come in the kit, they are not really 100% accurate but they look the part.

 

Not much to do to the sides except add the hand rails. It is a bit strange that there are no drilling marks for the hand rails - its up to you to work out where they go. I've worked off photos and have noted the measurements that I've used so thet other two will be consistent. Also there is a hand rail on the extreme right hand end of the sides that is really part of the vehicle end (that is not mentioned in the instructions).

 

attachicon.gifDSCN1802.JPG

 

The underframe castings have taken quite a bit of cleaning up, the buffers especially. There are some components missing that Brian Daniels highlighted in his build.

 

attachicon.gifDSCN1804.JPG

 

Thats about where I'm at, I need to scratch build these fittings to complete the brake linkages.

 

Not had a lot of time to get the JLTRT CCT progressed but he is where I am at the moment.

 

The instructions are a series of photos with some basic narrative. I'm not too keen on them as they jump around a bit and things like putting in the window bars before painting will mean that fitting the glazing will then not be easy, especially as I have some Shawplan Laserglaze for these vehicles and it needs to be carefully manipulated to get in right. Hence, I've not really followed them and just approached it logically - roof, sides, ends, underframe etc.

 

The roof is not too challenging, - just stick the ventilators on.

 

attachicon.gifDSCN1755.JPG

 

However, when I was looking at pictures of the vehicle ends, I noticed that my chosen vehicles had BR shell vents and not the BR dome vents supplied. Having had a good look on the net, I can't find any CCTs with all dome vents, so off they came and I fitted some Sidelines ones I had in another (unstarted) kit. Having had a look in my other two kits, one has BR dome vents and the other has what looks like the ridged BR dome vents, ho-hum.... Anyway not too difficutl to fix.

 

attachicon.gifDSCN1805.JPG

 

The ends of the JLTRT CCT are missing the vertical locking bar and handle. I've added some brass strip and wire to represent these. I''ve been trying to get the clips around the locking bar to look right but everything I've tried to date looks too chunky so I'll revisit this later (I haven't yet tried a sliver of sticky paper label and hope that the paint seals it and keeps it fixed in the years to come). I used some Laurie Griffin cast lamp irons rather than the whitemetal ones that come in the kit, they are not really 100% accurate but they look the part.

 

Not much to do to the sides except add the hand rails. It is a bit strange that there are no drilling marks for the hand rails - its up to you to work out where they go. I've worked off photos and have noted the measurements that I've used so thet other two will be consistent. Also there is a hand rail on the extreme right hand end of the sides that is really part of the vehicle end (that is not mentioned in the instructions).

 

attachicon.gifDSCN1802.JPG

 

The underframe castings have taken quite a bit of cleaning up, the buffers especially. There are some components missing that Brian Daniels highlighted in his build.

 

attachicon.gifDSCN1804.JPG

 

Thats about where I'm at, I need to scratch build these fittings to complete the brake linkages.

So glad you posted this, picked it up from

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