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TimC

TimC's 7mm BR Blue Workbench - JLTRT BR CCT

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Well I didn't ponder for long. I went for a 'looked after but used' appearance for the 48DS.

 

Weathering was predominately MIG powders (ashes white, industrial city dirt and black smoke) with some dry brushing Railmatch acrylics (dark rust, weathered black, frame dirt) plus the odd splash of Model Mates oil brown weathering liquid. All sealed with a light coat of Games Workshop purity seal.

 

The lamps are lenses from Little Cars, I used matt varnish and a small amount of black to take the shine off the glossy bezel. Glazing was from some clear thin clear plastic packaging of some long forgotten item that had found its way into my bag of plasticard. The driver is from Omen Miniatures. The roof has been superglued on but sparingly, it'll come off easily enough if need be.

 

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One day, it'll feature as the shunter of a private siding of a dairy where with affection it is known as 'Ernie' (the fastest milkman in the west).

 

Next on deck, I'm going to finish off my Heljan 33 now that getting the airbursh out on the patio is now becoming possible (subject to any wind).

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I like the lamps.

Reminds me of a Decauville ex SNCF class Y2200 I saw standing outside a grain store in the Beauce part of France.

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I like the lamps.

Reminds me of a Decauville ex SNCF class Y2200 I saw standing outside a grain store in the Beauce part of France.

 

Thanks Jeff. I wasn't familiar with the Y2200's until I had a quick 'google'. They look a nice little prototype.

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Had a great weekend operating Thames Wharf Yard at the Nailsea Show. My 48DS made an appearance or three.

 

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The flywheel and the relatively high speed of the Mashima 1220 makes for an 'interesting' drive. Even at half speed, the loco will run for well over a foot before coming to a rest so stopping on the magnets for the sprat & winkles was 'fun'. The curves are tighter than the test Avon GOG test track so 'pull-four/push-three' was the limit before the sound of spinning wheels could be heard.

 

You'll notice that in the coupling bar is missing on the front in the two lower pictures but present in the top one - it was removed after a shunting accident (more cursing about flywheels........) - it was my wife operating so 'hey-ho, it'll glue on again...'

 

Got the 33 out this morning only to find that one side's transfers had come off in the box....Grrr! My fault, though, as I hadn't varnished them so a quick order into Precision Decals for more data panels. I've carefully removed the mould lines on the roof and will hide this under a good layer of roof dirt in due course.

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Thanks Jeff. I wasn't familiar with the Y2200's until I had a quick 'google'. They look a nice little prototype.

 

Yes, they are very nice, as are their slightly big brethren, the Y2400's.

Sadly now almost all gone, except inside larger sheds, where they are numbered on the LOCMA* series (* LOco des MAnoeuvres, or shunting loco).

Quite a few survivors have made it to industry, and a few into preservation, but you used to see them out on the mainlines or in town yards.

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What a lovely day to be outside...........................

 

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Once, its dry and I've removed the masking I'll post a few more pics.

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The warm sun dried 33019 nicely. The weathering is airbrushed Railmatch enamels - a mix of the usual suspects - Frame Dirt, Roof Dirt, Weathered Black & Model Mates Oil Brown - removed in places with a damp (with thinners) flat brush.

 

I'll leave it a few days and have another look at the loco, I might add some highlights with Tamiya weatherline tablets. The fuel tank certainly needs a bit of shine to the 'oil spill'

 

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33019 did not get warning flashes on her cab fronts until late summer 1981. I set my locos in May/June 81 just before the NCL collect and deliver service ended (July 81) hence none are fitted.

 

One odd thing with Class 33 is that their air/brake pipe valves are wrong handed with respect to the rest of the BR fleet. The handles are inboard on 33s whereas all others are outboard. I thought that this might be an Eastliegh'ism' but Class 73s are per all other loco classes - most strange. No doubt someone will know why.

 

Although, the loco has sat around for a while awaiting weathering, it was a relatively quick project in terms of modelling time. I'm hoping that the forthcoming Heljan 31 will be as quick and easy :locomotive: .

 

I really ought to get my JLTRT 25 finished but I'm itching to start some parcels vans to go behind the 33............

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Very nice Tim. It always amazes me how a bit of weathering improves a Heljan loco no end.

 

Thanks Brian. I'm certainly looking forward to the Heljan 31. Though hiding the steps to the high level water filler and plating over the nose doors maybe 'fun'......

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Thanks Brian. I'm certainly looking forward to the Heljan 31. Though hiding the steps to the high level water filler and plating over the nose doors maybe 'fun'......

 

We should have another pre-production 31 to view/tryout next week :locomotive: What colour should I paint this one?

 

Etches, steps and boiler step covers and front doors are being done as I type this by Pete Harvey so will be available when the 31 is out.

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We should have another pre-production 31 to view/tryout next week https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/emoticons/default_locomotive.gif What colour should I paint this one?

 

Etches, steps and boiler step covers and front doors are being done as I type this by Pete Harvey so will be available when the 31 is out.

 

Brian - Sounds good!

 

For the next demonstrator - If I was Heljan then I'd say GSYE but, to be different, I'd like to see one in experimental Orange (and I don't mean Load-Haul) unless you doing the Pete Harvey etch mods then I'd go for Dutch Grey/Yellow.

 

Will watch with interest.

Edited by TimC

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The MTH LMS BG has come onto the workbench for some attention. Most of which to date has been destructive! It will eventually be in 'end of life' condition - gangways removed, BR Blue and on its last legs.

 

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After dismantling the coach, I've removed the on-board lighting, removed the lining and numbering (it was LMS liveried), removed the end steps (though the bottom one will be refitted prior to painting), removed the gangways and doors, removed the door ventilators (these are just extras that fit in a slot at the top of the doors - I was going to leave them but one came off when I was rubbing out the lining so off they all came), removed the moulded regulator on the framing and done a bit of filling. Brian Daniels suggested that the foot boards (which are too long) could be removed in sections but this didn't work for me so the lot has come off. The rubbing down looks a bit vicious in the photo but its just dried residue that needs to be washed off.

 

The mould lines on the body are going to stay though by rights these had been removed by the late 1970s on the survivors. However, I'm not too confident that I could get the sides 100% smooth after any attempt to remove them so they can stay.

 

I've got some Sidelines components for the battery box, dynamo and regulator.

 

I'm going to investigate flush glazing the vehicle as the sides are quite thick.

 

Well after a lot of REMOVING, time to think about ADDING some bits...............

Edited by TimC
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Nice to see another blue one on the go. Who's going to do one in Blue and Grey? I never realised those door vents were just moulded extra's, drat!

 

Finished painting the Heljan pre-production 31, just putting the transfers on it now, so you will get a picture next week.

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The MTH LMS BG is shaping up.

 

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I've blanked off the gangways with 5thou plasticard (I have filled the gangway hole itself so hopefully, I will not get any 'shadow' in the blanking plate); added the handrails on the ends; replaced the footsteps and fitted the battery box/regulator/dynamo.

 

The job I wasn't looking forward to was the 'flush' glazing which I've made up from some 1mm clear plastic sheet. However, it only took a couple of hours to do the 16 windows and it is certainly worth the effort - once I got the dividers set up for the correct width/height of the two types of windows, they were cut easily with just the minimum of cleaning up required. They are a tight fit at the moment and will be removed and refitted after the body has been painted.

 

The windows bars are next and then I can think about a coat of primer to see where any filler is required - cue wind and rain...............

 

(and yes, my workbench is well overdue a tidy up!)

Edited by TimC
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In-between the wind and showers, I've managed to get the LMS BG so far:

 

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The blue in the photos is a bit bright, the model is darker but its damp outside so I took the photo in the kitchen (the longer exposure brightens the blue on my cheapie modelling camera).

 

I used JLTRT Sprayaway BR Blue and Halfords Satin Black - its quicker with the cans rather than faff around getting the airbrush out in the available weather windows. However, I'll do all the weathering with the airbrush. The roof (not in the photos) has been given the wash on/wipe off treatment with Railmatch roof dirt and weathered black - a mist over with roof dirt will finish it off. The roof on these coaches has screws at the corners and catches along the length of the coach. I found it a bit of a game to get off so its not going back on until the point where it definitely doesn't need to come off again.

 

The sole bars were a right devil. The primer showed all the flaws where I had removed the original step board and required a lot of rubbing down to get it half reasonable (its not perfect now but it'll do!). I'm very glad I didn't attempt to remove the moulding trim on the bodyside as that would have been a real nightmare.

 

Transfers next and then I want to test how the glazing copes with weathering over-spray - I don't want the clear plastic 'misting up' from the thinners in the weak weathering mix. That require the airbrush so it'll have to wait for a suitable weather window.

 

In the meantime, I've got a JLTRT BR CCT to start...............

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That looks very familier. Glad to see you came to the same conclusion as me on the removal, or not, of the raised bodyside detail. Nice job, must weather mine now youv'e got this far.

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A good week on the BG, the bank holiday rain kept us in and then some sun to get back out to the patio.......

 

I didn't like the effect of the sprayed weathering on the windows - I did a test piece and well, it looked too much like sprayed windows! The glazing was therefore left out as I weathered the vehicle with the usual mix of Railmatch enamels. After the glazing was fitted I put in a new set of window bars and added a couple of interior bulkheads either side of the guards area (this stops you being able to see from one side at one end out to a window at the far end on the other side - you don't get this sight line in photos and I didn't want it on the model).

 

As you'd expect the heavily weathered vehicle looked a bit odd with bright clean windows (except for the odd finger print or three). Mig Powder (industrial city dirt) was then applied to each window with a cotton bud and any excess brushed off. Hopefully the second pic shows the difference (and one of the finger prints :rolleyes: ). I'm much happier with this effect but this powder has not been sealed and will no doubt come off in time with handling (note to self: must tell the wife to only pick the coach up at the buffers or at the ducket). However, it can easily be re-applied as required.

 

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I've not fitted any vac brake or steam heat pipes. I'm sure that at some time in the future all my parcels stock will end up with some sort of auto coupling and until then I'm not going to fit any buffer beam detail that will potentially just get removed.

 

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Overall, a satisfying project, I wouldn't be surprised if there are some dimensional and detail inaccuracies but it looks the part and for me that is what counts.

 

The LMS BG is the start of a rake of parcels vehicles, next up are some BR CCTs (3x JLTRT kits), I'll build one, sort out any pitfalls and then knock out the other two. I've just made a start cleaning up the castings.........

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Not had a lot of time to get the JLTRT CCT progressed but he is where I am at the moment.

 

The instructions are a series of photos with some basic narrative. I'm not too keen on them as they jump around a bit and things like putting in the window bars before painting will mean that fitting the glazing will then not be easy, especially as I have some Shawplan Laserglaze for these vehicles and it needs to be carefully manipulated to get in right. Hence, I've not really followed them and just approached it logically - roof, sides, ends, underframe etc.

 

The roof is not too challenging, - just stick the ventilators on.

 

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However, when I was looking at pictures of the vehicle ends, I noticed that my chosen vehicles had BR shell vents and not the BR dome vents supplied. Having had a good look on the net, I can't find any CCTs with all dome vents, so off they came and I fitted some Sidelines ones I had in another (unstarted) kit. Having had a look in my other two kits, one has BR dome vents and the other has what looks like the ridged BR dome vents, ho-hum.... Anyway not too difficutl to fix.

 

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The ends of the JLTRT CCT are missing the vertical locking bar and handle. I've added some brass strip and wire to represent these. I''ve been trying to get the clips around the locking bar to look right but everything I've tried to date looks too chunky so I'll revisit this later (I haven't yet tried a sliver of sticky paper label and hope that the paint seals it and keeps it fixed in the years to come). I used some Laurie Griffin cast lamp irons rather than the whitemetal ones that come in the kit, they are not really 100% accurate but they look the part.

 

Not much to do to the sides except add the hand rails. It is a bit strange that there are no drilling marks for the hand rails - its up to you to work out where they go. I've worked off photos and have noted the measurements that I've used so thet other two will be consistent. Also there is a hand rail on the extreme right hand end of the sides that is really part of the vehicle end (that is not mentioned in the instructions).

 

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The underframe castings have taken quite a bit of cleaning up, the buffers especially. There are some components missing that Brian Daniels highlighted in his build.

 

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Thats about where I'm at, I need to scratch build these fittings to complete the brake linkages.

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A bad dose of work arrived in mid May so all my modelling time has been on Somerset Lane projects. However, the CCT is progressing again, slowly.

 

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I've still got a few bits to add. The sides were glued to the chassis this morning so I popped the roof on for a piccy. Its always satisfying when a model comes together and looks the part rather than just a collection of flat sides and a chassis lying on the bench.

 

The roof needs some attention so it will sit down properly.

 

I had Shawplan do some flush glazing for the CCT. There are (very) small dimensional differences between all the windows on each side so the glazing units were made for the largest of individual windows for the two types - the fixed ones and the door drop lights. I have gently opened up the smaller windows so the glazing units fit. This was much easier when the sides were still separate components. The flush glazed units look the part and to me are a big improvement on the glazing arrangement in the kit. Once the sides are painted, I'll post some pictures.

 

(edit - spelling corrections)

Edited by TimC
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Hi Timc,

here are my efforts must get some better pictures when I get chance

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Very nice! Gazza. Did you do anything to improve the riding of the vehicle? Though by your picture yours sits flat on its wheels so maybe not a problem whereas mine has a slight rock currently.

 

Brian Daniels put buffer springs in between the hornblocks and the leaf springs on his CCT. I'm about to take mine down the club to see how it runs on Somerset Lane - I don't wan't to get the paints out only to find I have to do some retro fitting/modifications to the running gear.

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Very nice! Gazza. Did you do anything to improve the riding of the vehicle? Though by your picture yours sits flat on its wheels so maybe not a problem whereas mine has a slight rock currently.

 

Brian Daniels put buffer springs in between the hornblocks and the leaf springs on his CCT. I'm about to take mine down the club to see how it runs on Somerset Lane - I don't wan't to get the paints out only to find I have to do some retro fitting/modifications to the running gear.

 

Yes Tim, I done the same as Brian

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Tim

 

I added a rocking axle to mine, very easy to do and just gives enough movement to keep it running smoothly.

 

I will see if I can add a photo of it later.

 

 

Richard

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Yes Tim, I done the same as Brian

 

Tim

 

I added a rocking axle to mine, very easy to do and just gives enough movement to keep it running smoothly.

 

I will see if I can add a photo of it later.

 

 

Richard

 

Thanks guys. Did either of you add any weight to the vehicle? I have pinged a few springs around the living room this morning :shout: so will probably go the rocking axle way.

 

Down the club yesterday, I've found that one of the axleboxes needs a piece of packing and then the vehicle sits perfectly and rides well and negotiated all the points on Somerset Lane even without any other modifications. (I need to clean that filler up - close up photos are cruel - none of the CCTs I'm modelling have the hook holes in their W Irons, so I've filled them)

 

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I'm about to disappear for a couple of months so it is unlikely that the CCT will see any paint now until September so I'll fit a packing piece in, put on and fettle the final bits and give it a trip around the Avon GOG test track when I get back. One of the other members has a JLTRT CCT and it runs fine 'as built' so I'll make a final decision on springing/compensation once I've seen how it runs there.

 

I remembered to take a pic of the underframe yesterday.

 

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My mistake was to fit the brake yoke safety straps the wrong way around in their slots. If I'd have looked closely at the instructions and Brian's build of his CCT then I would have spotted this error. I need to fettle one or two to sit a bit more squarely but I'll leave it as is on this vehicle but make sure I do it correctly on the other two. I've added a few bits of brake rigging/linkages/safety straps omitted in the kit. It looks the part and helps fill some of the void. However, I've not doubt Its not 100% correct/complete but good enough for me.

 

Now, I've got a couple of buildings I need to finish for Somerset Lane......

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