Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Happy Bunny Time

 

It is with great relief I am able to announce that I have my chassis, wheels and parts back in my hands. smile.gif

They are untouched. I am saying nothing.

 

 

As they used to announce on Telly;

 

"Normal Service Shall be Resumed Shortly"

 

biggrin.gif biggrin.gif biggrin.gif

 

Hi Jordan,

 

just glad that you got your chassis back. It may have took time but you got it back.

 

OzzyO.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Once again thanks for all the support and PM's re the happy outcome to this.

 

Having a go at it myself, no doubt I shall come to wonder why I didn't just tackle it myself in the first place...

 

Added much of the chassis detail yesterday, but haven't had chance to take pics yet (going to Work is such a nuisance at times!!)...

 

One other thing I must add in light of recent PM's; and that's the willingness of the chaps at PRMRP to get involved in supplying replacement parts for me, especially as I didn't actually buy the kit off them in the first place. Okay I did buy it off someone who knows them, but I've not been in contact with them myself at all, so Top Marks to PRMRP for that!

 

can't you fit a motor in the bonnet and drive one of the front axles via gears, then Delrin chain to the others?

The motor is in the long hood (sorry, bonnet!) and drives the end axle. I'd mentioned Delrin drive only as a bit of a joke; I'm assuming the drive to the other wheels is via the connecting rods, like on the real thing? Any comments, anyone? I wasn't planning any chain drive.

And while I'm thinking about it:- Wheel quartering; being Slaters the quartering is done automatically, but does anyone know which side wheels "lead", if you follow? I.E. with one wheel fitted to the axle, what's the position of the other one in relation to it? As I understand it, the crankpins weren't at 180deg to each other, but 90deg.? again, any comments?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's a pic of the chassis so far; lots of bits added including sandboxes and suspension details, and brackets to hang the brake gear off.

Class14L04.jpg

 

Apart from drilling holes for the plunger pick-ups, I don't think I'm far away from painting it. I want to fit the brake gear & rigging after fitting the wheels.

 

Here's a pic of the connecting rods. It looks like they have joints next to the centre axles, would this be a good place to joint them on the model? Two of the rods are half-etched on one side, so it seems there's a middle 'section' and two handed 'sides' to laminate together.

Class14L05.jpg

 

Maybe while I'm at it, I should tidy my workbench again.... :unsure: :rolleyes:

Class14L06.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

IIRC, it's usual for the left hand side of the loco wheels to lead the right by 90 degrees.

 

It won't affect the running of the loco, but I think you'll find that it is normal practice for the RH crank to lead the LH crank by 90 degrees.. Like all things there are bound to be exceptions to the 'rule'. If you have a three cylinder loco, then it is 120 degrees and Slaters do them if you ask! As you can't see both sides of a loco at the same time, I don't quite see the point.

 

Although I don't know the loco prototype I would expect it to conform to normal two cylinder steam practice as above.

 

Regards

Sandy

Link to post
Share on other sites

As you can't see both sides of a loco at the same time, I don't quite see the point.

 

The point being that locos like the ex-GER E4 2-4-0s, some of which were RH leading and some of which were LH leading, one could discern which locos were which as the balance weights on the driving wheels were in different positions relative to the crank pins.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's a pic of the chassis so far; lots of bits added including sandboxes and suspension details, and brackets to hang the brake gear off.

Class14L04.jpg

 

Apart from drilling holes for the plunger pick-ups, I don't think I'm far away from painting it. I want to fit the brake gear & rigging after fitting the wheels.

 

Here's a pic of the connecting rods. It looks like they have joints next to the centre axles, would this be a good place to joint them on the model? Two of the rods are half-etched on one side, so it seems there's a middle 'section' and two handed 'sides' to laminate together.

Class14L05.jpg

 

Maybe while I'm at it, I should tidy my workbench again.... unsure.gif rolleyes.gif

Class14L06.jpg

 

Whats up with the work bench????????? The chassis fits on it. Oh I've got it now no cup of tea of a can of beer!!!!

 

OzzyO

 

PS, glad that you got it back.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The point being that locos like the ex-GER E4 2-4-0s, some of which were RH leading and some of which were LH leading, one could discern which locos were which as the balance weights on the driving wheels were in different positions relative to the crank pins.

 

Hello Adrian,

 

a bit of a red herring on a diesel as the balance weights were opposite the crank-pins IIRC.

 

Hello Jordan,

 

have a look back in this thread and see if there are any photos of the same loco in the same position taken from both sides. I would still go for R/H lead.

 

OzzyO.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Adrian,

 

a bit of a red herring on a diesel as the balance weights were opposite the crank-pins IIRC.

 

Hi ozzyo

 

That's fair enough, though my comment was directed more towards Sandy's statement which had become more general in nature, and is one which crops up on here from time-to-time.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Craig, thanks for that link; I can see what you mean and I think you're right. Funny to read too that the parts don't always fit properly on the real thing sometimes, either!! :D

 

I did wonder about Sandy's comment "Although I don't know the loco prototype I would expect it to conform to normal two cylinder steam practice as above." seeing as it's a Parrafin Burner, but I suppose the same "tried'n'tested" principles were used in the early Diesel designs.

 

Today I've superglued two pieces of PCB strip inside the frames ready to take the wiring from the plunger pickups, and marked out where I have to drill the holes for those. The recommended place is in the middle of the spring hangers at the top of each wheel; fine for the non-driven axles, but the gearbox & gear get in the way on the driven one, so I've had to put the plunger pick-up to one side of the wheel. I've put it so the brake gear will be in front of it when fitted, which should help to hide it somewhat.

 

Finally, Re driving the jackshaft; there are frame spacer pieces either side of the jackshaft axle that, unless removed/cut into (not recommended!!), prevent driving that axle anyway, whatever the method!! :rolleyes:

Link to post
Share on other sites

A touch more progress....

The connecting rod parts are now soldered together, and actually seem to fit on the cranckpins in the required manner, too..!!!

 

Class14L07.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

very impressed with your build so far, nice examples by Brian and Fred too!!!!!

 

hit on this thread when i posted a request for help on the brake rigging on these locos ( thanks Ozzyo for pointing me here!) the pics from Brian Daniels helped no end, just couldnt figure out the layout of the handbrake links and cranks!!! instructions dont help much!!!

 

anyhows' this is mine so far......... (sorry for the poor qualty pics, taken on a mobile!!)post-9368-127426616161.jpgpost-9368-127426619368.jpgpost-9368-127426621453.jpgpost-9368-127426624487.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh, WOW..!!! :O Pictures of how it's supposed to look..!!! :) B)

 

That looks a very neat & tidy build there, spud- far better than mine! You don't fancy taking over this thread do you..? ;) :) Welcome to RMweb, by the way!

 

Work on my own 14 has tailed off a bit recently, while I was getting my Dark Side stuff ready for Nick Pallette's Trent Valley show last weekend. I'm also away on hols soon, so apologies for a current lack of progress.

I'm considering using another set of Slaters wheels cut down to use for the counterweights; the whitemetal castings are nice, but possibly a 'weak link' in the drive train, particularly getting the "throw" distance correct between axle and crankpin...

Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh, WOW..!!! ohmy.gif Pictures of how it's supposed to look..!!! smile.gif cool.gif

 

That looks a very neat & tidy build there, spud- far better than mine! You don't fancy taking over this thread do you..? wink.gif smile.gif Welcome to RMweb, by the way!

 

Work on my own 14 has tailed off a bit recently, while I was getting my Dark Side stuff ready for Nick Pallette's Trent Valley show last weekend. I'm also away on hols soon, so apologies for a current lack of progress.

I'm considering using another set of Slaters wheels cut down to use for the counterweights; the whitemetal castings are nice, but possibly a 'weak link' in the drive train, particularly getting the "throw" distance correct between axle and crankpin...

 

 

haha! no no no, its your thread!!! thanks for the compliment though! yours looks very nice too.

she should be in the paint shop in a week or two, i'll throw a couple of pics up when she goes in.

 

i've left my cast cranks as they are, purely because they dont actually do much ( unless you are actually driving via them), they just follow the motion of the coupling rods around. the throw on them isn't actually that bad, but just to be safe i've left a generous amount of clearance in the bushing just in case. Anyhow, most of the time these are hidden behind the cab steps with the mesh guard, so you dont see much of them anyway!

 

keep up the good work! if it wasnt for your thread, i'd actually be a bit stuck right now as i handn't a clue where the handbrake links went!!!!

 

( glad you got the chassis back too!!!!)

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

i've left my cast cranks as they are, purely because they dont actually do much ...they just follow the motion of the coupling rods around. the throw on them isn't actually that bad, but just to be safe i've left a generous amount of clearance in the bushing just in case.

On mine the hole for the crankpin is far too large for the pins as used on the wheels. Were yours similar, and if so what have you done to overcome it??

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Jordan,

 

Great to see your back on track again (pardon the pun).;) I cannot say this will work in every case particularly as I do not dabble in diesels :rolleyes:. But a lot of modellers in 7mm use a 10BA cheesehead screw instead of the slimmer Slaters pins, we still use their bushes they just need drilling out a bit until they just slip over the threads of the screw or you can tap them out so they can be screwed up hard onto the surface of the wheel. Also they are much stronger as personally the Slaters pins are a bit to thin. Hope this is of some help.

 

Martyn.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Adrian..... a clean bench is a happy bench!!!!!!!! or maybe i've got a bit of an OCD???

 

 

Jordan,....yep, the etched holes in the rods are too big for the slaters pins, but i used the bushes they supply, and the fit was just about right after filling the hole with solder and reaming it back out!!!!!!!

On the jack shaft, i drilled and tapped the cranks to M2 and fitted a steel screw from the back, this fits the hole just right with enough slack to compensate for errors. like i say, theres no real stress on these cranks so the fit doesnt need to be that exact or even that substantial, as long as it moves with the rods it'll be ok.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Adrian..... a clean bench is a happy bench!!!!!!!! or maybe i've got a bit of an OCD???

It just looked an impressive, well lit, spacious, industrial workbench - rather than a couple of square feet of MDF squirrelled away in the corner of a back room.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.