Peco Double Slip Advice

[lilchris]

I have a double slip and a single slip on my N-gauge layout using code 55 with live frogs. I was going to use a frogjuicer like someone else suggested but I changed the peco motors for cobalts and wired them accordingly. I could not believe how easy they were to wire, you just have to remember to wire the frogs to the opposite motor.

[Pufferman]

And you haven't done anything to them? Just metal fishplates on all the exit rails?

[Gwiwer]

If you have only one power controller for the entire layout then you can fit metal joiners to all tracks on a double slip because you have no potential for creating a short.

 

Most situations in which a double slip is used will require more than one power controller on DC, for example one feeding each of two tracks.  To prevent shorts you MUST insulate where the two circuits would meet.

 

In my own situation I have the main line straight-through route fitted with metal joiners and the cross route insulated where it connects to the point from the opposite main line.  The fourth end does not require insulation because it leads to a siding and when necessary that siding becomes insulated because it is equipped with a trap point.

[alambic17520]

Bonsoir, I still have problems with my peco insulfrog double slip. My DCC layout features a WYE whereby two opposing lines converge onto a terminus. The polarity of the converging lines into the WYE is, of course, conflicting.

 

I wish to install a Peco Insulfrog (100) between the two converging lines, but whatever I do, I get short circuits despite using a reverse loop device between the beginning and the end of the WYE.

 

Am I missing something? 

[alambic17520]

Thank You,

Back to the railway room!

[Andrea506]

Sorry if I'm showing igmorance but I'm new to this. I've just bought an electrofrog double slip to go in the carriage sidings on my Dutch layout. I'm surrounding it with insulated joiners and using DCC. Do I need to use switches to change the frog polarity or can I use the point baldes to conduct current and change the polarity of the frogs? Bit confused!!

[RFS]

As it's an Electrofrog slip you will need to manage the change of frog polarity via switches attached to the point motors you are using. If you haven't got the instruction sheet you can view one here (see diagram 4) - http://www.peco-uk.com/imageselector/Files/Instruction%20sheets/HO-OO%20Electrofrog%20Turnouts.pdf

 

You will need IRJs on the two frog rails at each end.

[Blacque Jacque]

Sorry if I'm showing igmorance but I'm new to this. I've just bought an electrofrog double slip to go in the carriage sidings on my Dutch layout. I'm surrounding it with insulated joiners and using DCC. Do I need to use switches to change the frog polarity or can I use the point baldes to conduct current and change the polarity of the frogs? Bit confused!!

You can use either method. That said however, using the point blades generally proves less reliable & using external switching, particularly in a DCC environment, will prove far less hassle in the long run.

[RFS]

Blacque Jacque, on 17 Oct 2015 - 22:35, said:Blacque Jacque, on 17 Oct 2015 - 22:35, said:

You can use either method. That said however, using the point blades generally proves less reliable & using external switching, particularly in a DCC environment, will prove far less hassle in the long run.

 

Not correct - you cannot use the blades on an Electrofrog slip: you must use polarity switches.

Edited October 17, 2015 by RFS

[250BOB]

Not correct - you cannot use the blades on an Electrofrog slip: you must use polarity switches.

Don't forget you can use a Frog Juicer..!!!

Especially if you are intending to hand operate your slip. It's a simple piece of kit, read back a little in this thread.

[Colin_McLeod]

Un-needed expense.

Sold on the premise that wiring frogs is difficult, IMHO it isn't.

 

Keith

Difficult or not, the juicer avoids the need for switches. It's called development/progress. After all why not condemn point motors as "unnecessary expense" on the basis that wire in tube control is not difficult.

Regards Colin

[RFS]

Colin_McLeod, on 18 Oct 2015 - 10:19, said:Colin_McLeod, on 18 Oct 2015 - 10:19, said:

Difficult or not, the juicer avoids the need for switches. It's called development/progress. After all why not condemn point motors as "unnecessary expense" on the basis that wire in tube control is not difficult.

Regards Colin

 

Point motor (£5) + 1 Frog Juicer Port (£8 ) = 1 Tortoise slow-action motor with 2 built-in reliable switches (£13).  IMHO a much better investment, as you get all the benefits of slow-action motors for the same outlay.

Edited October 18, 2015 by RFS

[Colin_McLeod]

Let's agree to differ. Now where did I put the key to wind up my engine?

[Clive Mortimore]

Point motor (£5) + 1 Frog Juicer Port (£8 ) = 1 Tortoise slow-action motor with 2 built-in reliable switches (£13).  IMHO a much better investment, as you get all the benefits of slow-action motors for the same outlay.

Or a Seep PM1 with built in switch at £4 in one shop to £5.30 in another

[250BOB]

Point motor (£5) + 1 Frog Juicer Port (£8 ) = 1 Tortoise slow-action motor with 2 built-in reliable switches (£13).  IMHO a much better investment, as you get all the benefits of slow-action motors for the same outlay.

I agree, the frog juicer is more expensive.............BUT....if you cant get under the layout to fit point motors, perhaps because of your age, or its an older layout been down a few years, then the frog juicer has its place.

 

There are lots of committed wiring folk on here, and I have done my fair share, but the frog juicer for me, just simplified the whole process. I hand operated all my 60+ points for many years, the juicer was a god send. But latterly some of the points are now motorised, but using the long narrow surface mounted point motors fairly easily disguised, but of course with no switch facility for polarity.

 

After all, we are just trying to give the guy the options, he can then make his mind up based on difficulty and cost.

 

Bob

Edited October 18, 2015 by 250BOB

[melmerby]

Or a Seep PM1 with built in switch at £4 in one shop to £5.30 in another

With a horribly unreliable switch to boot!

 

Been there, done that - scrapped the lot!

 

Keith

Edited October 18, 2015 by melmerby

[Andrea506]

 

After all, we are just trying to give the guy the options, he can then make his mind up based on difficulty and cost.

 

 

Really need to go to Specsavers! It's ok, no offence taken, 

 

Andrea x

Thanks for all the opinions guys, appreciated.

[markwilson]

I'm comfortable with the idea of modifying my Electrofrog points to improve reliability (i.e. not relying on the switch blades) and also happy that a point motor with a built in switch will handle the frog polarity for me.

 

What I can't understand is:

 

a) why the advice for double slips is to insulate all rail connectors, not just the inner rails that are connected to the frogs.

 

b) whether there is an option to snip and then solder a link between stock/closure rails on double-slips, as some would advise for normal points.

 

FWIW, I'm using Peco code 55 track.

 

I can't see the answer in this thread but starting a new thread seemed wrong, given the original topic here.

 

Please can someone help out with some advice?

Edited April 10, 2021 by markwilson
Clarify point around soldering closure/stock rails

[Dominion]

Mark, I have wondered about your question a) as well. I think the advice to insulate the stock rails comes into play if you want the routes through the slip to be on different electrical sections (and perhaps controllers) depending on route. For some DC electrical plans that would be the case. But if all the routes are on the same electrical section, or if you are using DCC the stock rails can just be the same polarity as your normal track feed, so If joining the slip stock rail to another rail of the same polarity no insulator is necessary. That is how mine are all wired.
 

You may still need an insulator in that location if joining to the frog rail of a turnout, as you would in a crossover for instance. But that insulator is for the turnout frog rail as that may change polarity, rather than for the slip stock rail. 
Tom

Edited April 11, 2021 by Dominion

[markwilson]

Thanks @Dominion - that's really helpful.