Deev Posted January 8, 2011 Author Share Posted January 8, 2011 Hi Bill, I'd be very interested to see any uPVC framed baseboards and track glued down to foam - could you post some pics for me? How do you cut it - did you use a jigsaw or a knife? Do you reckon you could use polystyrene, with suitable bracing and protection? Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob hughes60 Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 As somebody contemplating a new build I am impressed with the "polyfoam" principle. However is it possible to post product numbers/identifiers for B & Q/Wickes or other clear identifiers for builder's merchants? Googling both with "polyfoam" or "polyfoam insulation" on websites returns some panels that look nothing like this material ! Many thanks Bob Hughe60 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deev Posted January 8, 2011 Author Share Posted January 8, 2011 Hi Bob, How about this stuff? http://www.diy.com/d...&isSearch=false Not sure if this helps? Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mod5 Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 As somebody contemplating a new build I am impressed with the "polyfoam" principle. However is it possible to post product numbers/identifiers for B & Q/Wickes or other clear identifiers for builder's merchants? Googling both with "polyfoam" or "polyfoam insulation" on websites returns some panels that look nothing like this material ! Many thanks Bob Hughe60 If you have a read of this thread and this I think this may answer some if not all of your questions. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob hughes60 Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 Thanks for the pointer(s) for the Knauf space board sheets - will have anosey this wednesday waving my discount card! Bob Hughes60 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Bedding Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 As said previously, MDF is a poor choice. I have, in the past, used DIY store ply, and MDF, and had cause to curse the choice. My current work in progress uses professional grade 12mm birch ply from a trade timber merchant, sourced and sized for me by the village chippy. The causes of current delays have included electrical "challenges", not carpentry. So I strongly recommend birch ply. If too thin, it may require more complex reinforcement, which will offset any first-cost material saving. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deev Posted January 12, 2011 Author Share Posted January 12, 2011 Hi Peter, What's the best thickness of foam to use - 25 or 50mm? Does anyone else use thinner? Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deev Posted January 26, 2011 Author Share Posted January 26, 2011 Hi guys, I've now bought some 52.5mm. Has anyone any experience on how to lay the track? Is it best to glue straight to the foam or put some cork down first? In my mind, all the cork will add is weight!! Thanks Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 I posted this earlier today on another similar thread. Even 18mm plywood warps ! Another vote for ply BTW though I have used MDF for a couple of small "boxfile type layouts" I wouldn't give it a second thought for something big. I would echo Etched Pixel's post about the carcinogenicity (tabloid speculation) and remember ply is also stuck together with glue. Just be safe and wear a dust mask when cutting all wood. The poor quality softwood used in framing can be far more of a problem than the quality ply you select for the top. Most softwood these days is very green pine supplied cheap to the mass diy retailer to sell on to unsuspecting mums and dads convinced they can build a shelf/deck/house. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted January 26, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 26, 2011 Many people advocate using a softwood frame (groan) with a ply top. Using a plywood top is a actually a very good way of stiffening the softwood framing! :D As mentioned before I used 9mm ply on edge as framing and my baseboards are strong enough to stand on. I have an extra rib down the middle to reduce any tendency to bow. Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Etched Pixels Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 Many people advocate using a softwood frame (groan) with a ply top. Using a plywood top is a actually a very good way of stiffening the softwood framing! :D As mentioned before I used 9mm ply on edge as framing and my baseboards are strong enough to stand on. I have an extra rib down the middle to reduce any tendency to bow. Keith How are you joining the various sections of ply on the corners/edges ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chinahand Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 For my fixed, home based layout I have used 12mm birch ply to make open grid baseboards on a 250mm grid topped off with 6mm ply track bed. The track bed is supported by 12mm plywood risers glued and screwed to the grid. If I was building a portable layout I would probably use 9mm birch ply for the gridwork though I have seen open grid boards made from 6mm ply. This is IMHO the most stable form of construction and allows scenery to be modelled both above and below the trackwork. The main problem, as I see it, with foam board is its thickness. (50mm +) which would make it difficult to install point motors since the actuator rod would flex too much to be reliable. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deev Posted January 27, 2011 Author Share Posted January 27, 2011 Hi Trevor, I've given the foam a lot of thought and that's the way I'm going to go (for now). I intend to use the following points devices that use a servo so I'll router out the foam to the right depth 15mm) and fit to the point. Hopefully using servo-actuated points mean that the loading on the foam will be much reduced. More details here: http://www.tamvalley...ccessories.html Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave777 Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 If weight is not an issue then a soft wood frame with a ply top works well. I would not consider this for a portable layout thought. Strangely enough, that is exactly what I use for my portable layouts! I use a 5mm ply top on softwood batons, all sourced from the local Homebase, glued and screwed, strong enough to stand on, kept in the garage and no warping in several years. And yet practically each of those are aspects that others would recommend not doing... and I can appreciate their reasoning behind it. Just goes to show that there are 101 ways to build a baseboard and we've all had different experiences, sometimes with exactly the same methods. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted January 27, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 27, 2011 How are you joining the various sections of ply on the corners/edges ? Pinned & glued with a few fillets with screws. All the edges were routered dead square before assembly. The legs provide corner strength, I would have used corner blocks if there were no legs. The layout is permanent so no need to dismantle. (12 off 4'x3' boards around a 20'x 12' room) To adjust height/level I used kitchen cabinet legs on the ends of the wooden legs (40 for less than £20) rather than the metal screw type that model shops sell. Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Re6/6 Posted January 28, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 28, 2011 The main problem, as I see it, with foam board is its thickness. (50mm +) which would make it difficult to install point motors since the actuator rod would flex too much to be reliable. Firstly I cut the 80mm square holes in the 50mm foamboard for the point motors. Then I fit my pointwork to its 4mm ply base then fit the Tortoise using an Exactoscale Tortoise adaptor plate so as to check that it all operates satisfactorily prior to glueing the whole thing onto the foamboard. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deev Posted January 28, 2011 Author Share Posted January 28, 2011 Hi Keith, I like your kitchen legs idea - can you post a photo? Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mike Bellamy Posted January 28, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 28, 2011 I like your kitchen legs idea - can you post a photo? I would guess that these from Screwfix would do the job - and the price seems to match that quoted above http://www.screwfix.com/prods/36145/Kitchens/Cabinet-Accessories/Cabinet-Fittings/Kitchen-Plinth-Feet-Set-Pack-of-40 Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greengiant Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Our latest club OO layout is using mild steel framing skinned in 6mm ply with dense builders foam for the scenic bulk. These are a couple of pictures of the prototype board to prove all features work before commencing the main construction. Each board has one pair of legs which are hinged and fold up inside the baseboard frame, each leg upright has a screw adjustable foot for leveling. We have a few tweaks to do before final construction begins. This has produced a light, extremely stiff, even without the foam block embankments in place baseboard. Martin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted January 29, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 29, 2011 Just to be a little different, mine is made up of a mixture of 12mm birch ply, 12mm far eastern ply and 12mm MDF. If used correctly and in the right place MDF is a suitable material, just a bit hard to put pins in. They were made on the ply box principle and what I would of done differently with the main boards is to have made the sides from 12mm ply and the infill bearers from 3" x 1" this would of taken the "whippiness" out of the frame and avoided cutting endless corner blocks. As this layout does not move from home (but has been constructed with any future house move in mind) you can make boards out of just about anything, it's when you want to exhibit that some of the lighter options would be appealing.......that said the fiddle yard boards are 8" x 2" and I can lift them with ease myself. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 29, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 29, 2011 And on this thread are the boards made for Treneglos a few years back.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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