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The Penguins workbench - Trans Pennine transformation part 3


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Congratulations, but it will not take huge chunks out of your time, Yes babies do need care but you will still have time to model. But may be not go off to shows and the like.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all.

 

Well, inbetween the sleepless nights and busy days, I've managed 5 minutes here and there to add the small details to the Trans - Pennine DMC. On the cab fronts, I've used plastic strip for the gutters and eye brows, Shawplan Deltic lamp brackets, (cut down), and head board brackets for the windscreen washer jet cover, PH designs etched grille beneath the headcode box, (special commission), and Replica Railways cab door handrails. A real mish mash of manufacturers products......

 

The inner end has had my resin cast exhaust shrouds added as well as a representation of emergency brake rigging and the sides have had door bumpers and destination board brackets added using various sized plastic rod.

 

As this is my practice model, I'd appreciate any constructive feedback on any glaring errors, but am unlikely to make any further alterations on this particular model due to it being my practice one. Any comments would be used when I make the "production" pair of DMC's.....

 

attachicon.gif20140329_122724.jpg

 

attachicon.gif20140329_122704.jpg

 

The DMC is perched on a Mk1 underframe which will of course have some alteration before it becomes Trans - Pennine - esque.

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

Hi Sean,

 

Its looking good, just a minor point or two. The exhaust pipe just sat above the level of the roof with the protect cage round them stopping just below the roof. The cab front hand rails look just a tad too thick. 

 

Regards

Al Taylor

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Sean,

 

There's also one with an ex works 104 at Liverpool IIRC - will look for a link.......

 

Edit.

 

Here:-

 

http://www.dflitcroft.co.uk/The%20Railway%20Image/Early_Years/1970s/1974/Images/September/E50561_Lpool.jpg

 

Further edit.

 

Full site link:-

 

http://www.dflitcroft.co.uk/The%20Railway%20Image/Early_Years/

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Hi all.

 

Well, inbetween the sleepless nights and busy days, I've managed 5 minutes here and there to add the small details to the Trans - Pennine DMC. On the cab fronts, I've used plastic strip for the gutters and eye brows, Shawplan Deltic lamp brackets, (cut down), and head board brackets for the windscreen washer jet cover, PH designs etched grille beneath the headcode box, (special commission), and Replica Railways cab door handrails. A real mish mash of manufacturers products......

 

The inner end has had my resin cast exhaust shrouds added as well as a representation of emergency brake rigging and the sides have had door bumpers and destination board brackets added using various sized plastic rod.

 

As this is my practice model, I'd appreciate any constructive feedback on any glaring errors, but am unlikely to make any further alterations on this particular model due to it being my practice one. Any comments would be used when I make the "production" pair of DMC's.....

 

attachicon.gif20140329_122724.jpg

 

attachicon.gif20140329_122704.jpg

 

The DMC is perched on a Mk1 underframe which will of course have some alteration before it becomes Trans - Pennine - esque.

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

Hi Sean,

 

If that is the practice model, then you have nothing to worry about!  Perhaps the only thing I would suggest is to use a finer wire for the grab handles on the cab front, say 0.3mm hard brass. But apart from that, things are looking very promising.

 

All the best,

 

Colin

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Hi Sean,

 

I hope you didn't mind me pointing that out about the handles! 

 

Re. drills and wire, if you go for a slightly larger  (and stronger) 0.4mm dia. drill, that will do the trick and the over-size holes will not show.  Even using .009" guitar string would give a nice handle, but it is harder to bend.  I could post you a bit of .031mm hard drawn brass wire if you don't want to but a whole packet.

 

All the best,

 

Colin

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Sean

 

I am enjoying watching your build and your cab looks great. 

Just thought I would mention about the drill bits. I buy my tiny drill bits from Eileen's emporium in packs of 10 because really fine drill bits are dead easy to break and you don't want to be left with out the necessary drill bit because you have just broken your only one. Perhaps the more engineering minded modellers can avoid this but I am always breaking them.

 

regards

 

David 

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Oops! I hadn't thought to ask what finish the grab handles will have Sean.  Enterprisingwestern is right in saying brass would be best if the handles are to be blackened. 

 

The guitar strings would look quite well as plated grab handles.  I am envious of that American Strat and the Telecaster.  I had examples of both: Oh, where are they now?!

 

All the best,

 

Colin

 

If you are desperate, I think a piece of .016" guitar sting held in a pin vice would work as a drill on styrene - but try it on a test-piece first! (Edit: changed from 010" which is only 0.25mm  - oops!)

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Hello Sean,

 

if you have a decent ironmonger in Hull that sells micrometers it maybe worth having a word with them.

 

Expo tools web site is also worth a look.

 

When I'm fitting handrails into a hole I tend to drill the hole 0.05mm bigger than the wire.

 

OzzyO.

 

PS. don't know if you had a look at the second photo site that I posted but it has some nice roof shots in it. 

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Hello Sean,

 

forgot to mention Expo tools do a boxed set of 180 drills that they say go from 0.3mm to 2mm in 0.1mm increments. But you can ask for any sizes as long as you get ten of each size.

So you could get say 10 X 0.35, 10 X 0.55mm, 10 X 0.55. Etc.

I tend to get the titanium coated ones, a bit more cost but seem to last a bit longer.

 

OzzyO.

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Hello, PoD.

 

May I throw my hat into the ring with:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/proops-2-x-titanium-coated-h-s-s-DRILL-BIT-metric-0-35-mm-jewellery-modelling/291001932994?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.RVI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20647%26meid%3D5896660907899473015%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D9210%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D291001932994

 

Working in plastic, a warmed sewing needle (few seconds over a lighter flame) held in a pin vice can be used to 'centre-pop' the locations for subsequent drilling.

 

Brilliant work, as ever.

 

Cheers,

 

BR(W).

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Hi Sean

Re the drill bits check with Lord Flasheart - I think he got some from Hobbycraft (at a sensible price) but not sure how small they were. I know he also got some from Boyes but I think the smallest they do is 1mm.

I've got some 0.3mm brass wire if you want a length to try (oooerr)!

Will you be going to the club tomorrow night - I have more cake for you.

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You could always try Screwfix -

Erbauer HSS Drill Bit Trade Pack 150Pcs £24.99

Product Code: 73567

Product contents:
25 x 1mm, 25 x 1.5mm, 20 x 2mm, 15 x 2.5mm, 15 x 3mm, 10 x 3.5mm, 10 x 4mm, 10 x 4.5mm, 10 x 5mm and 10 x 6mm.

 

Might not give the smaller ones that we all need and break frequently but this isn't a bad price for a selection of useful(ish) sized drills.

 

Stan

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