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The Penguins workbench - Trans Pennine transformation part 3


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Sean: three sets of Fox transfers??? For one Deltic? :blink: I'm trying to get by on just the one!

 

At the risk of sounding arrogant, you're welcome to a set if you want them? I'm sure even I won't use all three.....:yes:

 

If you have a look at the real ProtoDeltic, you will see that its chevrons and speed lines are very thin plated metal strips. Thinking ahead, it seems easier to remove the Kitmaster moulded efforts, and then replace them with much thinner ones. Paper or shim will do, and the shapes can be derived from the Fox transfers themselves.

 

You'd only need three sets if you were constantly getting the shapes wrong! :lol:

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Craftsman Models still list a ProtoDeltic conversion set (DK22) at a cost of £14.95 - this might be where your etched strips came from, Sean?

 

....I'm going to carve off the raised EE plaques etc too as Fox do some lovely etched replacements.

 

Yes, those can all come off. I've got the same EE plaque set.

 

Incidentally, I've worked out that if you type the search word "Deltic", and select "Galleries" in the RMWeb search engine, my ProtoDeltic photo album does show up.

 

Weird. :blink:

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Hello All,

 

IIRC, the last time that I saw the proto Deltic. the front chevrons were just painted on the dark blue or black line around them makes them look like plates. I would show what I mean in a photo but I don't have copyright for it. You will not get a shadow line at the top and the bottom if it stands out in normal light.

The side bands were, still are? Like a double ogee curve with the middle a bit wide. These were on raised strips of metal.

If you want photos that show what I mean, PM me.

 

OzzyO.

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Hello All,

 

IIRC, the last time that I saw the proto Deltic. the front chevrons were just painted on the dark blue or black line around them makes them look like plates. I would show what I mean in a photo but I don't have copyright for it. You will not get a shadow line at the top and the bottom if it stands out in normal light.

....

 

Fascinating. I've seen a couple of photos on Flickr that suggest the chevrons were painted on a plate, as they appear proud of the surface.....:blink:

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  • RMweb Gold

well, I'm okay, I can post this

 

post-6717-0-60373400-1305556114_thumb.jpg

 

the side chevrons are raised, wooden mouldings I think, but the front chevrons also look raised to me (look at the top edges where they go round the side) they are thin though :unsure:

 

HTH

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well, I'm okay, I can post this

 

post-6717-0-60373400-1305556114_thumb.jpg

 

the side chevrons are raised, wooden mouldings I think, but the front chevrons also look raised to me (look at the top edges where they go round the side) they are thin though :unsure:

 

HTH

 

 

If the chevrons are on say 1/8" metal bands that works out at 0.0015" thick (in 4mm). so for all and intent and purposes the thickness of a transfer. The body side bands are different. These ones need a bit of depth to get them to look right but not that much.

so how do you do it?

 

OzzyO.

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If the chevrons are on say 1/8" metal bands that works out at 0.0015" thick (in 4mm). so for all and intent and purposes the thickness of a transfer. The body side bands are different. These ones need a bit of depth to get them to look right but not that much.

so how do you do it?

 

I was proposing paper strips for the side bands? Could you do it with Rizla?

 

 

.....As it is, I have a set of chevrons from the Craftsman conversion kit as mentioned by Horsetan above. I may, (to save a lot of awkward bending), just use the transfers as they are. BTW Horsetan, I have three sets, so if you need some, let me know.

 

I have a complete set of the Fox transfers, thanks Sean, but will let you know if there's a cock-up!

 

.....The Dapol Deltic kit will also be on standby, but I might let Horsetan do all the hard work and just copy his ideas!.....:unsure:

 

Probably safer, eh Sean? Probably......:D

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I have cut the test sideframe and put in the first U-channel inserts to stretch the wheelbase a bit nearer to the Heljan bogie. You only need about 1mm of channel, but to my eyes it is something worth doing. It also gives you space to put in the dampers which were fitted to the bogies from about 1959 onwards (the real thing has them picked out in black paint now).

 

Photos to follow before I finally apply the solvent to join them all back together.....

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  • RMweb Gold

Any one out there in RMwebland live near Shildon?????

 

erm, Sir Haydn of this parish is the Senior Curator of Rail Vehicles at NRM and is based at Shildon. I am informed his office is some 400 ft from DP1.

 

send him a PM, he obliged me with a close up photo of the fuel gauge so that I could shrink it down for my model.

 

as the AA used to say - "He's a very nice man!" :yahoo:

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I was proposing paper strips for the side bands? Could you do it with Rizla?

 

 

 

 

Hello All,

 

I was thinking along the lines (sorry) of two thicknesses of transfer lining cut about .5 -- 1mm narrower than the finished lines and set on the body along the center line of the line. Then the finishing line applied over them.

 

OzzyO.

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Rather you than me OzzyO. Sounds a bit too much "faff" for this modeller. Think I'll stick with my etches or just the transfers.....

 

"if it looks right it is right"

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

 

 

That sounds good to me to, I think that I would just go for the transfers.

 

OzzyO.

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Guest jim s-w

I found an untouched bottle of Railmatch ProtoDeltic Blue paint last night. The feckin' cap won't unscrew......

 

Turn it upside down, spray airbrush cleaner between the jar and the cap, leave for a few minutes and it should come undone. If not repeat the process

 

HTH

 

Jim

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