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The Penguins workbench - Trans Pennine transformation part 3


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1, 2, 3, erm... Sean it does look good and glad you invoked the sensible rule!

 

Are you sure you didnt miss one about..... (joking)

 

Ian

 

I most definately am not counting them Ian.

I think in this case, it is appropriate to invoke Penguins law - if it looks right, it is right.

;o)

Cheers.

Sean.

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Sean

 

Tamiya Masking tape cut into fine strips with a new scalpel then studying Brian Daniels's pictures.

 

Then some careful airbrushing with some Satin Black Humbrol and remove the tape asap when I was happy, in this case less is more as you have to think of the end result and have some picture ref with you when you are painting.

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Sean, was the main power unit cover bolted onto the cover frame on a Class 27? I knew on the 26 it was (for they used a two part cover - alloy outer cover bolted down to the frame and translucent cover in the middle of that (and bolted onto the main cover).  However on the 27's, I could swear used a one piece translucent cover without any visible bolts (read "rivets")  was  - certainly the ones I remember repairing - and that was frequently, for the heat eventually damaged & delaminated the translucent sheet from the steel frame especially around the exhaust - I can only ever remember it being a strengthened one piece unit sans bolts/rivets!  Maybe worth a check.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Don't EVER do that to me again Brian.

 

I'm still numb from the Lima 101 years back and more recently, Hornbys L1!!!

 

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

 

 

Hmmmm maybe I shouldn't have mentioned to the guy on the Heljan stand at Telford about you converting one of their 33's to a 27, it seemed to get his grey matter moving!

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

One side of one 26's cantrail grills fitted.

 

Just finished off during the lunchtime news and so thought I'd try and show how fine they were. It turns out Sophie Rayworth is more photogenic than George Osbourne.....!

 

attachicon.gif20130930_130721.jpg

 

;o)

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

 

 

I'm trying to think of a funny comment to add to this but so far the only ones I can think of would either get me locked up or worse still evicted from the Forum!

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Hi all.

 

Given my questionable soldering skills pictured on the Pullman bogies above, I had planned to avoid trying to repair the bogies that came with the JLTRT Peak and possibly plump for some class 40 spares when the Heljan model comes out or spend a fair chunk of well earned dough on some more modern replacement resin bogies from JLTRT.

 

Having taken the body to the club last Wednesday to show off, Mike Knowles, (of this parish), was kind enough to offer to have a go at fettling the bogies and see if they could be restored.

 

This is where he's got to so far.....

 

attachicon.gifRSCN3074-2.jpg

 

attachicon.gifRSCN3075-1.jpg

 

..... a fine job so far I think. Obviously, the buffer beam has to be re-attached and, unfortunately, I'll have to cast some replacement axle boxes and springs, but, I'm hoping that this will be acheivable and will result in a top job.

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

 

Thanks for the kind comment on the bogie refurb, I hope you'll still be impressed when you see it in the flesh.

 

Below are some pictures of the other bogie awaiting restoration to give an idea of what we started with.

 

post-432-0-97674900-1380568164.jpg

 

post-432-0-36055000-1380568291.jpg

 

post-432-0-17692500-1380568308.jpg

 

Construction was done using superglue with a few blobs of solder thrown in! The use of glue actually helped in dismantling the bogie as (no doubt softened by the afore mentioned soak in brake fluid) it was relatively easy to appply a bit of leverage and break the bond between the parts. However removing all traces of the glue was another matter, furious scraping, filing and wire brushing followed. I found that running the tip of a hot soldering iron over a small area of glue at a time and then rubbing it with a glass fibre brush fitted with a steel wire brush insert worked best. BE WARNED heating the glue with the soldering iron causes it to give off some nasty fumes causing irritation to the eyes etc so a well ventilated area is required and keep your face well away if you try it. All in it's taken about 6-7 hours to sort one bogie but I've thoroughly enjoyed doing it and it does show the resilience of brass/nickel silver construction.

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I believe heated superglue is a form of cyniade?

 

Nasty on the eyes and nasal passageways

 

Thanks for the kind comment on the bogie refurb, I hope you'll still be impressed when you see it in the flesh.

 

Below are some pictures of the other bogie awaiting restoration to give an idea of what we started with.

 

attachicon.gifRSCN3093.JPG

 

attachicon.gifRSCN3095.JPG

 

attachicon.gifRSCN3098.JPG

 

Construction was done using superglue with a few blobs of solder thrown in! The use of glue actually helped in dismantling the bogie as (no doubt softened by the afore mentioned soak in brake fluid) it was relatively easy to appply a bit of leverage and break the bond between the parts. However removing all traces of the glue was another matter, furious scraping, filing and wire brushing followed. I found that running the tip of a hot soldering iron over a small area of glue at a time and then rubbing it with a glass fibre brush fitted with a steel wire brush insert worked best. BE WARNED heating the glue with the soldering iron causes it to give off some nasty fumes causing irritation to the eyes etc so a well ventilated area is required and keep your face well away if you try it. All in it's taken about 6-7 hours to sort one bogie but I've thoroughly enjoyed doing it and it does show the resilience of brass/nickel silver construction.

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Hi Sean

 

I missed your bit earlier with the Peak. Mike's done a nice job on that bogie. If I were you I would drop an email or phone Laurie at JLTRT and see what he can do to replace the castings. I like the Heljan 40 bogie sideframes but I would keep these JLTRT metal ones as they are intended, they are really nice bogies.

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With reference to the bogies

 

I thought one was cast and one fabricated? 40's cast 45 fabricated? Only guessing this way round as 40's always seemed to have bogie cracks and fractures, which I put down the manufacturing process?

 

I think that you maybe getting mixed up with some other E.E. types. IIRC when the Deltics? came out these had fabricated bogies and later had cast bogies (the class 37s may have been the same).  But the class 40, 44, 45 & 46s all had plate frame bogies, that by there very nature had to be fabricated.

 

OzzyO. 

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