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Tillig v Peco


Calimero
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As somebody embarking on a new layout and considering Tilligs Elite points, can anybody explain one thing to me.....

some of their turnouts have plastic ends to the frog wing rails - some are continuous nickel silver (see Mighty Ducks photo above in post #14 as it clearly shows both types).

 

Now is one version like the Peco insulfrog and the all metal version is Tilligs version of an electrofrog or are they both electro?

 

The 289mm long straight points seem to have the plastic wings yet the preferred longer still 361mm and 389mm long straight turnouts look to have the all metal frogs.

 

Anyone able to clear this up? Maybe its just that those in the photo above feature a mix of old and new Tillig Elite and that maybe all newly stocked Tillig points are now all metal?

 

PS; I dont suppose we have any templates for these turnouts on here anywhere do we?

Edited by ThaneofFife
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I have a lot of Peco Code 100 that will become a 3m x 3.5m layout in a shed over the next 24 months and it seems a shame to ditch it. Has anyone experience of reducing the rail height on a belt sander to get down to 0.083" or perhaps 0.075"? ...

 A recipe for ripping the points apart, the small rail components will likely pull out of the plastic base, and the pressed point blades will probably be reduced to a tangle. That's before any consideration of the likelihood of achieving a polished level rail top surface from this treatment. Sell it on, or use it only in the 'off-scene' parts of the layout perhaps?

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As somebody embarking on a new layout and considering Tilligs Elite points, can anybody explain one thing to me.....

some of their turnouts have plastic ends to the frog wing rails - some are continuous nickel silver (see Mighty Ducks photo above in post #14 as it clearly shows both types).

 

Now is one version like the Peco insulfrog and the all metal version is Tilligs version of an electrofrog or are they both electro?

 

The 289mm long straight points seem to have the plastic wings yet the preferred longer still 361mm and 389mm long straight turnouts look to have the all metal frogs.

 

Anyone able to clear this up? Maybe its just that those in the photo above feature a mix of old and new Tillig Elite and that maybe all newly stocked Tillig points are now all metal?

Does this help?

Tillig Elite turnouts have all-metal frogs. there is no Insulfrog equivalent.

The ends of the wing rails were previously plastic on some turnouts, but I believe all of them are now all-metal.

Check rails have gone to all-metal too, according to the blurb.

Metal rail running throughout, no plastic rail in contact with the wheels.

The frogs are insulated from the one piece blades.

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  • 10 months later...

Sorry to bump an old thread. I am in the process of fine tuning a layout plan and I noted that some Tillig points and things are far more suitable for what I wish to achieve than some Peco alternatives (examples being the "outside" double slip for example, and some of the large mainline points. However, Peco do wider radius curved points and have a 3 way turn out when Tillig don't. 

 

Would Peco Code 75 and Tillig be at all interchangable or would they not look right next to one another? Does anyone have any photos of them next to each other (maybe ballasted)? 

 

Thanks

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If you read the thread carefully the answer lies within. Though seriously why would you want to? C&L has chairs. Peco doesn't. Tillig plain track looks a lot like peco & is compatible for sure! Though thanks for bumping the thread or I would have missed it. The turnout kits are cheap & look interesting. There is a huge range of turnouts & they look a lot better than peco to me. Paired with C&L I think that looks pretty good. Though I'm open to offers if anybody can suggest anything better. I'm going to redraw my current plan with Tillig & see how it works out. Any more platform length I can get would be welcome.  :scratchhead:

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I have a lot of Peco Code 100 that will become a 3m x 3.5m layout in a shed over the next 24 months and it seems a shame to ditch it. Has anyone experience of reducing the rail height on a belt sander to get down to 0.083" or perhaps 0.075"? With 20 turnouts and 3 double-slips in the theoretical plan, the replacement cost for turnouts would be in excess of £300 and these posts have convinced me I should go the "fine scale profile" route, even if I am using OO with all the errors that brings! I am however prepared to ditch the "Streamline" flexible lengths to get the better appearance.

 

Forgive me, but I can't directly see an answer to the question. I am wishing to mix and match Peco and Tillig points in a single layout, and perhaps within a single junction. I am aware that there is a difference in rail heights, but I would have thought that 0.2mm could be accounted for with, for example, altering the height of the underlay to get the tops of the rail in alignment?

 

My question refers to the appearance of the two types of track together. There seems to be reviews of the points in isolation, and reference to the track being different colours which could surely be toned down by weathering of the Peco. But if I were, for example, to attach a Peco turn out to a Tillig double slip, would it stick out like a sore thumb or be aesthetically acceptable? Also I have the need for some curved points and the Peco ones have better radii. 

 

Normally I would have just purchased a couple of bits of track and tried it out but the Tillig stuff is quite expensive and pictures don't give a true idea of what they would look like on a layout. There is another forum that has photos of the Code 100 and the Tillig next to each other unballasted, but this too doesn't give me a real idea of what the Code 75 and the Tillig would look like if on the same layout

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The Peco Code 83 is US outline is it not? I know the Tillig is meant to be more German, but I have read in a few places online now that it would be suitable for 00 gauge and may well be the best of a bad bunch when it comes to RTR for UK outline

Edited by sub39h
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I used Tillig turnouts combined with C&L flexi on my layout, as recommended by Number 6 on his Southerham project. Although I haven't used the track in anger yet, I certainly didn't find the turnouts to be troublesome whilst laying them… flexible, yes, but not fragile.

 

Not a good pic of work in progress but gives you some idea of how it looked while it was being laid and ballasted.

 

attachicon.gif11 Barb cinders detail.jpg

 

The problem is not so much the rail height but the section. Peco 75 looks pretty chunky to me. Why they call it finescale since it is neither to scale or fine? The lack of chair detail is also a problem. C&L is much finer by comparison. I would not be happy with peco & tillig combined. Buy a single tillig point & give it a go. I know some use peco points & C&L track as a compromise. Having made my own track in 2mm I want something better than the rather dated products peco have to offer. But don't want to go all out to hand made track. I was using peco 40 years ago & it doesn't look a lot different to me! 

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The problem is not so much the rail height but the section. Peco 75 looks pretty chunky to me. Why they call it finescale since it is neither to scale or fine? The lack of chair detail is also a problem. C&L is much finer by comparison. I would not be happy with peco & tillig combined. Buy a single tillig point & give it a go. I know some use peco points & C&L track as a compromise. Having made my own track in 2mm I want something better than the rather dated products peco have to offer. But don't want to go all out to hand made track. I was using peco 40 years ago & it doesn't look a lot different to me! 

 

I am returning to the hobby after some 15 years, and trying to go from train set to model railway. Whilst there has been a huge improvement in locomotives and rolling stock and accessories, I was surprised to see basically no change in the available track. 

 

Surely there is a market for true 00 gauge RTR track? 

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...[snip]....

Surely there is a market for true 00 gauge RTR track? 

 

Regarding flexitrack, SMP, C&L and Exactoscale (now owned by C&L) all do proper OO track in code 75 bullhead rail.  Expect it to be about a pound or two more per yard than Peco code 75.

 

Points are a bit more problematic.  You can get kits (for instance C&L) to help you make them yourself.  You can buy ready-made hand-made points from firms such as Marcway, who own and distribute SMP track.  Alternatively, some people compromise and use Peco code 75 points with proper OO flexitrack. 

 

C&L and SMP have lower sleepers than Peco, but I understand that Exactoscale OO track uses similar height sleepers to Peco.  I have not tried using Peco points with proper OO flexitrack, so you will have to seek other opinions on the practicalities of using Peco points with SMP, C&L or Exactoscale track.

 

EDIT:  By the way, there have been some reasonably lengthy discussions on RMWeb about this issue.  If you are interested, you could do a search.

Edited by Richard Lee
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...Surely there is a market for true 00 gauge RTR track? 

A minority of us share your feeling, it;'s been chewed over several times here and elsewhere. Peco, who effectively 'own' the UK's market for better RTR track do not share this opinion, and consider their code 75 good enough. The real attraction of Peco's points for me is their robustness. Used carefully, service life is near indefinite. [Rant warning] But they will not even try a retool of just the large radius points onto better scaled point timbering to match the compromise scaling long established in finescale OO layouts, claims of 'too expensive' are floated through the media. Yet somehow they can afford to tool up all sorts of narrow gauge track with a miniscule market compared to OO. Well, someday a competitor may come along and eat their lunch by doing it right, coupled with much other possible technical innovation. Then will come the hand-wringing about another British company going down the tubes against overseas competition. Fail to innovate and develop the range, that's the risk you take. [/Rant warning]

 

The alternative is the plain track and point kits, and soldered bespoke track suppliers from the likes of C&L, SMP, Marcway. Or the compromise of taking the better (i.e. large radius) RTR points, modifying to remove the worst features and then combining them with the better OO plain track. This looks decent once ballasted and weathered. Take a look at Mr Nevard's creations like 'Cement Quay' to appreciate what this can deliver in skilled hands.

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  • 1 year later...

Dragging this one back to keep relevant info together!

 

Can Tillig Elite points be hacked to reduce track spacing? i.e. do they have a small straight bit on the end of the diverging line like Peco points do? I'm planning a continental layout and would like to keep to 4m track centres, which is about 46mm in 3.5mm. Looking at their EW5 points on SCARM, reducing the track spacing from 59mm to 46mm shortens a crossover by 90mm, which helps somewhat!!

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Tillig track is now imported into this country by Golden Valley Hobbies, and distributed to retailers from them.

It is possible to go to their website, www.goldenvalleyhobbies.com , and order the track you want. You then choose a retailer from whom you would like to collect this from, or have it sent out to you.

C&M Models are one of the retailers shown, and we will be happy to help you. At present, we carry a basic stock of the most popular items in the Tillig 'HO' track range.

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Interesting thread this one, any idea where one can purchase this track system 

 

 

Last time I looked Hattons stocked the Elite range. It used to be International Models but they seem to have gone awry.

 

International Models used to be the main UK source, but as David says, that company appears to have ceased as a supplier following the sale of the name and business to another owner and relocation to Scotland.

 

Other than Hattons, Kernow Model Centre are now suppliers, but they may have to order stock in for customers.

Golden Valley Hobbies, as mentioned by 87029, also sell direct with supply through retailers. Details are on their web site.

 

 

If interested in Tillig Elite track, it's worth obtaining and studying the Tillig track catalogue to understand the range available.

The catalogue is priced at only £2.80

 

http://www.goldenvalleyhobbies.com/index.php?page=product&prodID=6420&catID=3109

 

 

 

.

.

Edited by Ron Ron Ron
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hi guys,

try: modellbahnshop-lippe, Germany

 

http://www.modellbahnshop-lippe.com/?gclid=Cj0KEQjw3auuBRDj1LnQyLjy-4sBEiQAKPU_veXhrDYGM-uv1utomwQDyMhSIw8U9SynNxd6jX-G57kaAubk8P8HAQ

 

I have bought from these guys, great service, packaging and postage to Australia, always efficient and competitively priced when you watch out for their specials. Yep the site looks busy, and you need to know basically what you are looking for first. But the Tillig site,

 

http://www.tillig.com 

 

is good and as RonRonRon points out the catalogue is worth the expense up front, their points kits are great, especially after you have seen the web page on how to construct one, plus bought a ready made one also as an example. I downloaded the photos regarding the how to construct one, if required I can post them here (if I can find them)

 

Pity about INTERNATIONAL MODELS, their prices were the best in 2014.

 

CONRAD, somewhere over your side of the planet

 

http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/overview/1606326/H0-Tillig-Gleis-Elite-Code-83

 

never bought from these guys, although their prices haven't increased much since 2013, but still more expensive than modellbahnshop-lippe

 

For me, this is the business, it looks good out of the box, and with a little sleeper spacing adjustment for the code 83 rails will impress even the hardened rivet counter. The points and crossing are great, even if the tie bars appears dodgy, something that can easily be modified upfront, or breakage avoided through careful setting up of the point motor.

 

PS regarding the focus on cost, I have a lot of track work to build, and it's not cheap, don't be afraid of their superelevation underlay, its great, but lay track on MIDWEST cork for the absolute best finish.

 

best regards

Stanley

Edited by 1BCamden
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