Track cutting, what does one use?

[50030]

Hi all, im needing to cut some code 100 flexi track down to lenths to fit between pointwork, what tools out there are the best to use? thanks Neil.

[bike2steam]

A slitting disc on a mandrel in a mini drill.

[Tim Lewis]

Hi all, im needing to cut some code 100 flexi track down to lenths to fit between pointwork, what tools out there are the best to use? thanks Neil.

 

Xuron track cutter, available from several tool suppliers (Eileens, Shesto etc.), then clean up with a file.

[DJH584]

I use the same as Tim does.

 

There are others who use a fine toothed saw to do the same job.

 

David

[corax67]

For me it is either a slitting disc in a mini-drill (ie: a dremel) or the Xuron track cutter.

 

I do find with the Xuron however that I occasionally have to dress the cut ends of the rail with a grinding disc to keep gaps to a minimum.

[mezzoman253]

Xuron track cutters, quick and simple. I'd personally avoid the slitting disc if at all possible, too many pitfalls.

 

To modify older Peco points I used a piercing saw to cut the rails, although that wasn't the OP's question.

 

Rob

[shortliner]

Disk in a Dremel

[Karhedron]

I used to use a dremel and disc but recently switched to Xuron, seems quicker and easier.

[Lady_Ava_Hay]

There are now two types of Xuron cutter. The later parrot jaw one is better than the older straight cut one side and squeezed V the other. All cuts will require some attention to the cut rail end or you will find it difficult to install the rail joiner

[Guest stuartp]

Disc in a Dremel usually (with goggles !) but I can't find the Dremel at the moment so recent modifications to Portwilliam have all been done with a junior hacksaw with a new blade and a block of wood with slots in it to hold the rail down firmly.

[smudgeloco]

There is only one tool, and I don't know how we managed without it for so long - Xuron track cutter. The most useful tool I ever bought.

[Kenton]

The Xuron knackers the rail leaving you having to tidy up the mess.

A dremel is uncontrollable and tends to wander off - generating so much heat it melts sleepers.

 

I use a piercing saw simple slow even and fine cuts perfectly square and where you want them.

[bike2steam]

I'd personally avoid the slitting disc if at all possible, too many pitfalls.

Rob

 

 

A dremel is uncontrollable and tends to wander off - generating so much heat it melts sleepers.

 

Strange ???? I use a Minicraft, no pitfalls, no melting sleepers, quick, clean, easy - what's the problem ?

[melmerby]

Strange ???? I use a Minicraft, no pitfalls, no melting sleepers, quick, clean, easy - what's the problem ?

 

Good pair of strong wire cutters - more robust and cheaper than a Xuron and clean up end afterwards with a fine file.

 

Also cuts off excess point motor operating pin if wanted.

 

Keith

[Gordon H]

I always use a drill and disc, in my case nowadays a Proxxon and diamond coated disc. For years gone by this would have been a Minicraft and carborundum disc. Don't recall ever having any problems with sleeper melting.

Problem I see with the Xuron type of cutter (or anything similar) is that they are not suitable for cutting track in-situ because they inevitably involve temporary extension of the rail during the cutting process. Essentially, the excess material needs somewhere to go as it is removed.

I always prefer to make cuts after track laying where possible to ensure optimum continuity of rail alignment, using fibreglass PCB material to locate and fix the rail ends either side of the intended cut before making it.

[RBE]

Dremel and slitting disk for me. Goes through so fast that it has no time to melt anything. Only difficulty/pitfall that I have ever had was when I had to cut some track in situ. The size of the minidrill itself compared to the disk makes it impossible to cut the track at right angles to the baseboard (massive disks may be available but I would think that blade tip speed would then be an issue) as the drill has to be inclined. Other than that 10/10.

 

Be interested to see how you cut it straight Gordon.

 

Cheer

Cav

[GreenDiesel]

I use an Atlas multi-purpose hobby saw (http://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=http://www.canyonhobbies.com/v/vspfiles/photos/ATL400-2.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.bestrcdeals.com/search.php%3Fq%3Dbrand%253AAtlas%253A%26page%3D19%26sort%3DpriceDesc&usg=__JQKpSDTiP_2eQF0bV0uR_ubszEk=&h=350&w=350&sz=36&hl=en&start=23&zoom=1&tbnid=rL-YhOmCf2ej3M:&tbnh=135&tbnw=159&prev=/images%3Fq%3Datlas%2Bsaw%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dsafari%26rls%3Den%26biw%3D1182%26bih%3D735%26tbs%3Disch:10%2C501&um=1&itbs=1&iact=rc&dur=362&ei=s8QjTfjqM5KB5Ab2xrHXCQ&oei=r8QjTeaFIJDWnAfL3sXNDQ&esq=2&page=2&ndsp=24&ved=1t:429,r:10,s:23&tx=76&ty=73&biw=1182&bih=735) which are readily available from my hobby shops. These work fairly well and are inexpensive. I'm sure something similar is available in the UK.

 

Rob

[Oldddudders]

Drill and disc has worked well for me, but a variable speed drill, enabling you to get the job done with less vibration (trial and error to find the speed that works best for you), can be a great advantage. The Xuron cutters do the job well, but less so in situ, and need care if you are using the less-robust tracks like Peco Codes 75 & 83, where dislocating the sleeper web can be a hazard. Both methods often need a degree of rail-dressing if you are to use a rail-joiner on the cut end. Eye protection is a must any time I use a slitting disc, as when they go - they go!

 

GreenDiesel's saw would be good, too, but requires a little more patience in situ. The X-acto razor saw is a good alternative in markets where the Atlas product can't be found.

[Sailor Charon]

Well, I use the vertical cutting Xuron cutters, and mostly haven't had trouble attaching rail joiners. [Less trouble than I have with the letter j on my keyboard. Sometimes it doesn't work] And where I have, I've turned them round and cut again. (I've found that there is a right and a wrong way round to use them, and sometimes when you want to use both pieces of track, one takes rail joiners easily, and the other not at all.)

[pointstaken]

Dremel with flexible shaft, slitting disk held in the chuck on the end of the flexible shaft. Makes it easier to come in at right angles to the track for an even cut.

 

Dennis

[Gordon H]

Be interested to see how you cut it straight Gordon.

Not quite perfectly vertical, but much better than what can be achieved using one of the smaller standard discs. This one is 40mm dia.

 

 

[Jenny Emily]

I have always used a small hacksaw, out of necessity that I had nothing else. I clamp the rail gently in a vice after marking with a pencil where it needs cutting. The pressure from the vice needs to be just right - too much and it breaks the track, too little and the track is pulled out by the hacksaw.

 

I tried buying some slitting disks that fitted to a drill chuck, but had no luck with them at all.

[Anthony Ashley]

Dear All,

 

This is an old thread but I need similar advice. I need to prepare code 55 peco points for DCC ops. There is a need to cut the 2 interior point tracks. A large cutting disk will impact on the adjacent outside rails. What is the preferred option?

 

Regards,

 

Anthony Ashley

[smokebox]

Dear All,

 

This is an old thread but I need similar advice. I need to prepare code 55 peco points for DCC ops. There is a need to cut the 2 interior point tracks. A large cutting disk will impact on the adjacent outside rails. What is the preferred option?

 

Regards,

 

Anthony Ashley

Jewellers saw or piercing saw should be OK Link

Not sure you actually need to cut the tracks though on code 55 track.

 

PS.  Don't forget to order blades when ordering a saw.

[The Bigbee Line]

I have disappearing tools, with the ability to hide themselves at any opportunity.  So it's pliers, side cutters, razor saw, or slitting disk whatever I can find.  All have pros and cons.  I often have to make slight shortening adjustments, so the file is always used to finish off.  To make isolating cuts in peco points (The ones in the closure rails near the crossing) I clamp the turnout in the vice between two pieces of wood, then cut through the outside rail downwards and through the other two.  I then solder the unwanted cut.

 

Peco Code 100 is bullet proof, Code 75 is not quite so robust, code 83 is quite vulnerable due to nice fine fixings.