3 link Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 Afternoon Ozzy, Bl**dy good idea to keep the hand rails level ( never to old to learn ), a couple of questions if I may. When you run in a loco on a rolling road are there any tips you can recommend to aid smooth running, and yes I would be grateful on the smokebox number plate dimensions and are these a standard size on all GWR loco's ? Keep up the good work, brilliant thread. ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 1, 2011 Author Share Posted March 1, 2011 Afternoon Ozzy, Bl**dy good idea to keep the hand rails level ( never to old to learn ), a couple of questions if I may. When you run in a loco on a rolling road are there any tips you can recommend to aid smooth running, and yes I would be grateful on the smokebox number plate dimensions and are these a standard size on all GWR loco's ? Keep up the good work, brilliant thread. ATB, Martyn. Hello Martyn & all, some times the best ideas are the simplest ones. The R.R. question, just make sure that the wheels and rods are free before you even think about putting power to the motor. You can then put some power to the motor, if you have an Amp meter connect it in series (the type with the needle is best) then if the needle jumps watch for where it jumps as that will be a tight spot. I normally run the motor and gearbox for an hour or two in both direction before I fit them as well. I use grease on the gears and oil on the shafts and a small amount on the axle boxes. The backing plate for the smokebox is a bit of a cop out really as the ex G.W.R. locos had two small brackets for mounting the plates on, but this makes life easier. To do these you will need a length of C channel brass 3mm X 1mm I got mine from Expo I think. The sizes work for four digit numbers, for the one, two and three digit numbers you would have to adjust the length. Will PM you soon. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poggy1165 Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 Lovely engine - I have a liking for the 2251s ever since having a nice black Mainline one many years ago. I couldn't possibly justify one of these, but I must admit to feeling tempted. Really enjoyable thread that I will study at leisure as it is likely to teach me a few things. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mswjr Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 Ive been watching this build , and it looks a real nice job, tempting to buy one myself, keep pics comming . mswjr Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 5, 2011 Author Share Posted March 5, 2011 Hello All, well first off I have to tell you I got something wrong. In the following photo the bolt heads (that look nice) are wrong they should be rivet heads of two sizes. I'm too far on to be able to change them. One of the problems with not having enough photos of this class. The tender outer frames with the springs and axle boxes fixed in place, that's the outer frames finished apart from a good clean and grit blasting then ultrasonic cleaning and primer applying. The tool boxes from Malcolm Mitchel assembled and fixed in place, the padlock comes with the kit (in two sizes). Front of the tender finished (I think) not to sure if there should be two steps on ether side of the coal hole. On the drag beam you will see two small cuts, this is so you can remove the tender top and outer frames from the chassis. On this tender the draw-bar pin is attached to the inner chassis. Two views of the rear of the tender with all the bits in place apart from the vac. & steam heat bags, these will be fixed in place after priming. The loco body with the rear steps and vac. pipe fitted. Close up of the vac pipe fitting, the pipe is 1.2mm dia. and the bolt head is 0.5mm AF, sorry about the quality of the photo. Vac. pipe and bag end and steam heat cock fitted to front buffer plank. Still got the steam heat bag end to fit. First fit of the chassis to the body. A small amount of metal had to be removed from inside the firebox to clear the motor. I also had to cut the vac. and steam heat pipes so I could get the front of the frames in place (I've got some ideas to sort out the gaps). When I got the chassis in place it was rocking about the middle, the frames were clear, the firebox was OK, what is it I thought (or words to that effect). It turned out it was the end of the small handrails on the footplate, so out with the slitting disc and all was well. Starting to look like an engine now. Two views of the inside motion. Was it worth it? I'll let yous make your minds up. I know what I think. The front end with the steam pipe bag end in place, I'm not sure if you can see the cuts in the pipes in this view. Starting to look like a loco now. I'm having some problems with the running of the tender at the moment. Maybe if I put some wheels in it it'll run a bit better. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 Ozzyo That looks the business, I wish my soldering was as neat. Out of interest... where did you get the very small bolts from - the ones that are in the wrong place (sorry) and just how small do they get? cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 Ozzy That's looking fantastic. I do hope you change this thread title to show every one the latter stages of my castle build. Is that a small A shop I spy in the background? On with the magic Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 Hi Ozzy, Nice and tidy work there, I remember having to cut the vac and steam pipes on the front and back of the jltrt 57xx I built just so that the frames could sit up tight to the buffer beams. By the way what grit blaster do you use and are they a "must have item" in your opinion ? Also I agree with Mr Fay, would love to see a Castle build on of my favourite loco's hint, hint. ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 6, 2011 Author Share Posted March 6, 2011 Hello All, thanks for the nice words, re, my soldering all I put it down to is the amount that I do and having enough heat and the right solder and flux. The dummy bolts come in sizes starting at 0.5mm A/F up to 1.2mm A/F. You can get them from www.scalehardware.com or from Eileen's Emporium. Well Steve, it's not the A shop, but the out side wall of the 'gun shop', also in the same building is the 'engine shop'. The building is about 1/4 mile long. A photo of some more of the Scale Hard Ware bolts, in the right place this time (on the 2251 there not in the wrong place, they should be rivets). The grit-blaster, I wouldn't say that it's essential but I do think that it gives a good finish and removes small / thin amounts of solder from the surface of the metal before painting. I got mine from Machine Mart, cost about £125.00 you need a compressor that can deliver 10 cubic feet of air per. min.. I got the compressor from Aldi cost about £80.00. the grit was from EBay, cost about £25.00. So all up about £250. It's also connected to a vacuum cleaner (Tesco about £30) to act as a dust extractor. So It's all down to how much you would use it. I wouldn't be with out it now. Size about 24" X 20" X 20" I did start off with one of the Badger ones, OK, but not a patch on this one. But at the same time this one is designed for industrial use. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 7, 2011 Author Share Posted March 7, 2011 Hello All, well it's starting to look like a loco now. The engine and tender coupled together to check that it will go around a 6' rad curve. It will. Two views of the loco. Some more of the Scale Hardware bolts in use, this time for the end fixings of the firebox cladding bands. The size that I used is 0.5mm A/F. I managed to drill all four 0.35mm holes without snapping a drill. I'm glad to say. I got some from Axminster Power Tools or was it Expo? That are resharpened ones from the U.S. of A. 50 per box all carbide, you don't know what sizes you will get but they tend to start at 0.3mm and go upwards, I also got some burrs in my box. On to the injectors. The injector on this loco are placed a bit different to most locos in that they run across the loco, rather than along the loco. These photos show them attached to the body and the chassis. You can see the rear fixing bolt heads in here, I tend to use Allen screws for this on all my locos. Well the above wouldn't be much good for getting the chassis out of the body. So I have to cut them. This is where I cut them with a piercing saw. What is left on the chassis after cutting. You can also see the part of the rear drawbar attached to the chassis. I've still got to get plunger pick-ups up in there as well!!!!! Three photos of what is left of the injectors on the body. You can also see the gap in the rear drawbar that I had to remove so I can get the drawbar out of the dragbox. Jobs still to do, more grit blasting, ultrasonic cleaning of all the components, prime and paint the two chassis, prime the body work, fit the pick-ups motor etc. and the backhead. Just ordered the wooden packing case from Parkwood arts. The loco is about 15 1/2" long (they do a 16" one but not a lot of room at the ends) so 18" would have been good but they don't do one, so had to go for 20". In this case (sorry) bigger is better. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steph Dale Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 Paul, I've been following this build with some interest. As you know I've got a Sprinside equivalent on my workbench. I had a thought earlier today as I was reading your latest posting - are the tender tank or boiler hollow or solid? I'm wondering about one of these kits as a follow-up build; the tender would be useful to run with a Finney Bulldog too. I like the crispness of the brass construction - something my whitemetal one will never have, but am humm-ing and haa-ing about things like the boiler bands (I usually use tape) and the valvegear. Plus the fitting of DCC/Sound - hence the question about the hollowness (or otherwise) of the resin mouldings. Is there an etched boiler in the kit too, as with some of the other JLTRT/Mitchell kits? Cheers, Steph Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 7, 2011 Author Share Posted March 7, 2011 Hello Steph, if you have a look at mess#8 (its about two photos from the end) you will see the tender casting it will give you an idea of how much room you will have for fitting a sound chip in it. I have modified the inside of a Hawksworth tender to take out most of the coal space before, but that had a brass wrapper around it and a brass coal plate at the front. Unmodified and modified. Before After The boiler is solid apart from the firebox. You can remove detail from the resin boilers quite easily with diamond files, it's just a bit more work. This kit is one of the JLTRT kits with no Big Mal involvement, so unfortunately no brass boiler. The inside valve gear is representative rather that true to life, but it gives the wiggle factor, and fills in the hole. Hope that helps you. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 11, 2011 Author Share Posted March 11, 2011 Hello All, just some of today's work, a while back on one of the other build threads there was a question of the building of a coupling so here goes on the building of a G.W.R. type of coupling. The hook and the top shackle the turnbuckle on this one is 12BA clear. The swing link (Ive forgot it's proper name) this is tapped 12BA and drilled 0.7mm for the pin for the bob weight. The swing link and bob-weight, the pin will be solder in place and tidied up. One of the shackles after drilling 0.85mm for the turnbuckle. As above with the turnbuckle in place. The complete coupling, you can see on the last turn of the screw a small amount of solder this is to stop the coupling from unscrewing and falling off. The complete coupling after blackening with Birchwood Cassy fluid, after this is dry I rub on a small amount of thin oil just to take off the dull finish. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 Amazing work, full of admiration for stuff like this. Big thumbs up!! Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 11, 2011 Author Share Posted March 11, 2011 Hello All, some more of today's work and a bit of yesterdays, as a PS to my last post, the coupling screw is the 12BA one from the Slater's driving wheels as I use 10BA screws for the crank pin screws. Three photos of the back head or boiler front. Order of the fix, doors or shelf first, door lever second, then the fire hole flap. If you wanted you could have the doors part open with the flap in the up position. Steam fountain, gauge glass, steam regulator and steam pipes for the sight feed lubricator and the sight feed lubricator fitted. Main steam pipes and regulator link to the steam regulator fitted. Mason valve, brake valve and drain pipes from the gauge glass and sight feed lubricator along with the steam heat pipe. Pressure, steam heat and vacuum gauges fitted along with their pipes. Regulator handle fitted along with the fire hole flap chain. The finished job after grit blasting. Not far off the finish line now. The engine and tender chassis have been running on the test track while all the work in the last two posts was getting done. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 This really has been an education Ozzy Thanks for posting the build detail. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 12, 2011 Author Share Posted March 12, 2011 This really has been an education Ozzy Thanks for posting the build detail. Some times the little bits help to produce the whole and a lot of people wont ask for help with the little bits. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 12, 2011 Author Share Posted March 12, 2011 Hello all, I was going to use this photo in my next update, but as you can see there's something wrong with it. I cant reload it as I just moved it from the card from the camera, but in the thumbnails it looks OK. Maybe this should be in a different thread but hay it's my thread. One thing that I have learnt from this is don't move the photo files, copy them to the folder then check them then remove them from the card. Good job I took two of just about the same set of bits. Any advice appreciated. OzzyO. Edit; I've put this up in the photograph section as well. So any ideas please post them in the photograph section. Thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 Hi Paul, "Any advice" yes I can think of one, keep these most interesting threads coming. I have built a couple of the jltrt kits and although their quality and detail are second to none, it show's you need to do more than just shake the box !! ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale7JB Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 Backhead looks lovely... I'm very jealous of your sand blasting machine !! JB. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale7JB Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 Backhead looks lovely... I'm very jealous of your sand blasting machine !! JB. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 13, 2011 Author Share Posted March 13, 2011 Hello All, first thanks for the hints & tips on the photos. JB just think of it as an investment, after all it's only about the cost of a decent 7mm loco kit. The next builds are to finish off a Castle and a full build of a County, would yous like me to do something along these lines on them? Now on with the build, Three photos of the tender chassis with the paint on, I use satin for the wheels and matt for the chassis (all from Part Co). The matt is not as matt as Humbrol and the satin is a good match for Humbrol 85? I still have the two pin connector to fit to the pick-up wires. The rear pick-up in place, these were supplied by my customer and are for 4mm (Gibson I think), they fit in a 2.5mm hole if that helps. The rear pick-ups in place with the wires soldered in place. The black block with the white mark on it is the loco to tender connection. There's not a lot of room in there now. The front pick-ups with the wires soldered in place. Lots of room here. I did think about fitting the cylinder drain taps and the fitting for the A.T.C. gear on the front axle box. The pick-up wires soldered to the PCB in front of the motor, you can just see the wire that restrains the motor but still allows the axle to move. Two views of the valve gear with some paint on it, I used some acrylic red that I had. From Games Workshop I think. Back to the body now. Three photos after a good grit blasting of the injectors, I still have to give all this a good wash and ultrasonic cleaning. The slacking pipe and tap, the seats in this and most of the J.L.T.R.T. steam loco kits will tip up. The slacking pipe on the outside of the cab, the pipe is made from some 0.7mm wire with some 36SWG wire wound round it and then soldered up. The pipe is fixed to the tap and to the running plate and top step. The loco having a bit of a run out on the test track. The weights on the tender are some flywheels that I cast in white metal, and one that is made from some old lead pipe. The safety valve cover, safety valves and copper cap. The copper cap is just cleaned up and grit blasted, the safety valve have been blackened with Birchwood Casey blackening fluid, the S.V. bonnet has had a polish. Well I wasn't that happy with them in the last photo, so out with the poshing mop and Brasso. This was the result. Two photos of the result on my fingers. As the song goes "now the end is near" OzzyO.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kristian1401 Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 Yes please keep the builds coming! Fascinated by all this, tempting me to build myself a collet....... Kristian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 13, 2011 Author Share Posted March 13, 2011 Hello All, a couple of Castle photos to whet your appetites. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 Lovely work Ozzy, Keep this tread going matey just change the title for each different kit. I can't wait for my castle those pics give a tantalising glimpse keep em coming. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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