Rob Pulham Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 would yous like me to do something along these lines on them? OzzyO.. Yes Please! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 14, 2011 Author Share Posted March 14, 2011 Hello All, for anyone thinking of one of these with CSB suspension the weights are, Engine; 2lb 2 1/2 oz or 980 grams. Tender; 14 1/2 oz or 416 grams. Just getting ready to ultrasonic clean the engine body. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 OK I give up what did you do with the rest of the frames? Superb work, very envious of the finished engine. I'm sure your Castle will be even more entertaining...which one is it? Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 OK I give up what did you do with the rest of the frames? Superb work, very envious of the finished engine. I'm sure your Castle will be even more entertaining...which one is it? Mike Hello Mike, if you mean in mess #74 that's in next months part work. The loco will be 7099 one of Cantons finest (apparently, sorry Steve). There's a lot of work been done on the Castle build already, so when I get started on it I'll just do some photos just to highlight some points (or do yous want all the gory details?). OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 (or do yous want all the gory details?). OzzyO. Ozzy The devil is in ALL the detail, as you well know! ...so yes please. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Ozzy 5099 matey not 7099 And yes cantons favourite castle Looking forward to seeing some pics. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 Ozzy 5099 matey not 7099 And yes cantons favourite castle Looking forward to seeing some pics. Oh bu99er!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Oh he!! well I knew there was an ice cream in there somwhere. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 16, 2011 Author Share Posted March 16, 2011 Hello All, just getting the Baby Castle ready for all the final test etc., but to keep you entertained here are some photos of a Castle bogie under construction. The bolster with the dummy side control spring fitted. These are real springs but don't do any work. The bolster with the top bar frames fitted, before fitting the bar frames clean up for the horn blocks, and mark them 0-3. Drill and tap the hole through the top frame and the bolster 12BA. The frames with the front and rear strengtheners fitted. One of the equalising beams, the hole in the center is a blind hole for the spring (Slater's horn block if I remember correctly). The bottom frames from above and bellow. The completed bogie with the center pivot and bearing pads in place. The completed bogie painted and wheeled up ready for fitting. This bogie is from the S.D.K. In the normal kit you get a version in etched nickel silver. In my opinion it is worth the extra money for the S.D.K. for the extra casting that you get. When I get going on the Castle build proper I will let you know what parts are from the S.D.K. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 16, 2011 Author Share Posted March 16, 2011 Hello All, this is part of what the loco has to put up with. Not the best photo in the world, but it gives you an idea of the test track that I use. If the loco will run on this it should run on anything. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 17, 2011 Author Share Posted March 17, 2011 Hello All, during my clean up and testing I came across a small problem. Now I know that I should have spotted it earlier but I didn't. When I put it on one of the few bit of flat track that I have that I know is flat, it was rocking, and it had a tendency to be a bit lumpy through the frogs of the double slip. When I took the front wheel set out to clean the plunger and axle box's I could see rubbing marks on the bottom R/H slide bar. Now I was to far on to move the slide bars. What to do? Well our axles are to big to start with. 3/16" = approx 8" and most axles are about 7". 9" on the journals. So if the real axles can have a slim bit in the middle why not. So lets turn the center section down a bit. The chassis ran well before but it now runs better. Building a kit is not just about putting it together, but when you have a problem knowing how to solve that problem as well. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 18, 2011 Author Share Posted March 18, 2011 Hello All, as I said in my last post on the 2251 build "now the end is near" and it is, the loco is finished all the tests are done. So hears the last photos of 2230. When I had put some primer on the loco body I spotted this, it's some epoxy that had squeezed out from when the saddle was fixed in place, now do I leave it and say nowt, or do I remove it? Well I think you know the answer, it had to go. In these photos you can see my idea for covering the gaps in the steam and vac. pipes where they cross the frames. Not elegant but it works. Well this is what you've all been waiting for the final four photos of the completed loco. There are some differences from the build photos in that the slacking pipe has gone (the owner didn't wont it fitted), the steam heat bag end is a bit shorter. Now to summarise; would I build another YES please, are there a lot of problems with the kit NO; is it suitable for a 'first loco build' Yes (as long as you've done a bit of building before). The resin boiler and the tender tank takes a lot of the big pit falls out of this build. If you didn't feel comfortable about having the valve gear to work it could be assembled static. Not sure if I can put this here, but here goes. If you would like a CD of the photos of this build PM me, the cost is £5.00 including P&P. Happy building OzzyO. PS, off to re-start work on the Castle 5099 not 7099. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted March 18, 2011 Share Posted March 18, 2011 Looks brilliant a very well proportioned loco. Looking forward to seeing 5099 coming on now. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 21, 2011 Author Share Posted March 21, 2011 Hello All, I was going to retitled this thread, but I can't remember how to do it!!! (so if someone can tell me please do so). To start with some photos of the Hawksworth tender for 5099. This tender has had some modifications to fit a sound chip and speaker into it. I'll be doing a full Hawksworth tender build soon. The tender top before mod. This ones for a County so it's a bit (6") wider. Two views of the Castle tender top. The inside of the County tender top. To try and show the mods. to the Castle tender top, to get the speaker etc. in. The County tender chassis with I think the inner chassis in place. (Its not) The Castle outer chassis with the mods. For the speaker etc. Front and rear buffer planks with most of the fittings in place, the intermediate buffers are sprung. The front of the inner chassis, showing the front brake shaft. The front brake shaft end bearings are on the outer frames and the shaft has to be cut just inside of them so it will all line up when the two are assembled. Three views of the inner chassis. The front and middle axles are sprung and run in tubular bearings and pick up current from one rail. All the bearings are insulated so that the chassis is netural. The inner chassis from the top. On the upright board you have the pick-ups from the tender and pick-ups from the loco, which go to the chip. Then at the top you have the feeds from the chip going to the loco (not fitted yet). You can see two jumper wires going from the bottom of the board to the top, these are for testing purposes and will be removed when the chip is fitted. I will be doing a full build of one of these tenders when I start on the County build. So if yous want a full photo build let me know. That will be in the next month or so. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 Getting excited now!!!!!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 21, 2011 Author Share Posted March 21, 2011 Getting excited now!!!!!!! Steady on boyo. Just got your toy from P.R. Looks nice! OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 I was going to retitled this thread, but I can't remember how to do it!!! (so if someone can tell me please do so). I believe you edit the first posting in the thread with the full editor, this should give you access to the title lines for editting. Now back to gazing at the photo's! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 21, 2011 Author Share Posted March 21, 2011 I believe you edit the first posting in the thread with the full editor, this should give you access to the title lines for editting. Now back to gazing at the photo's! Thank you Adrian. I knew it was simple, a bit like me. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 21, 2011 Author Share Posted March 21, 2011 Hello All, now I've got this retitled I don't mind to much about putting some photos on hear. The Castle build was put on hold for a while, to get some other work done. But this is how far I'm on with it. The foreman at the door when I started. L/H & R/H views of the engine, the boiler is not fixed in place yet. A close up of the fire iron tunnel. A lot of people miss out the cover plate behind this. The front of the footplate. Note the step on the top of the valve chest. The pipe work at the front end. The footplate and chassis from below, the next job will be to sort out the injectors which go from the footplate to the chassis. Or the chassis to the footplate. The poor bu99er has gone white in the time it's taken!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 Hey Ozzy won't it be exciting when you can change this thread title to MOK 71000 duke of Gloucester build.( for me ) Mok are asking for suggestions for new kits in 4mm and 7 mm it seems the duke is going to he released. There's a thread running on the suppliers page and you can contact them via there web site. Sorry for the hijack but the better quality kits we have the better I think. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 Ozzy Stop teasing and get a few pics up mate. I can't take the absence!!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithg Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 Hi OzzyO, As a result of my enquiry about help on building class 2251 tender I have been directed to your link. Just what I wanted so thank you. However can you tell what sought of clamps you used to hold the coal raves in place and where I could purchase. The pictures are great and help together with your remarks, although I shall not go for split axles etc. Look forward to your reply Kind regards Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 10, 2011 Author Share Posted April 10, 2011 Hello Steve, Keith, All, I've fancied building on of the MOK kits for some time so the DoG will be most welcome. As you say Steve the more high quality kits the better. The clamps are just "spring clamps" I got them from my local tool stall in the market IIRC £1.75 for six, if you would like a set let me know. The market opens Mon. Wed. Fri & Sat. Or you could modify some spring clothes pegs, cut the curved ends off so you get a nice square end. Now is the time to get a brew and settle down, this is the front end of the frames, most of these photos were taken some time back on my old camera. The frames folded up and tapping the pivots 10BA, the front vertical plate will have been drilled 2mm for the piston rods, I'm now using some small brass top hat bearings in here now. The cylinder former folded up and two 6BA nuts soldered in place. The cylinder former and front frame spacer soldered in place. The pivots for the rocking levers in place and the inside valve rods. The inside crossheads from the back. The inside crossheads from the front note to hand them. The inside piston rods One of the rocker arms, I do some small mods to them a brass washer is soldered over the center pivot hole and a short length of wire is soldered across one of the arms to form a 1mm hole. The top of the middle of the cylinder stretcher is removed and cleaned up. In this photo you can see the small hole that is formed in the rocker arm and the top hat bearings. Outside slide bars in place and one of the mounting spigots cut off and awaiting cleaning up. Front cylinder covers in place and cleaned up. A length of brass tube 2mm dia. is soldered through the front valve cover and in to the rear valve cover. The center section is cut out leaving about 5mm at the front and rear. The valve rod and rockers, and the same with the knuckle joint in place. The same loosely in place. All fitted in place and pined together. On this loco the movement is transferred by a U shaped length of wire soldered to the valve spindle. This is how I now do it, a small block of brass is drilled for the spindle and cross drilled for the movement transfer lever. The out side crosshead the piston rod is drilled 1mm for a brass pin. This is how it looks in place. The bogie pivot in place and being taped 10BA. Sandboxes and sand pipes in place. The complete assembly from the rear and from below. More to follow Next time will be the main frames. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 Hi OzzyO, Your in the wrong job mate, reading your thread is more enjoyable than reading a good novel, can't wait for the next chapter . ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sailor Charon Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 Sigh. It's looking at stuff like this that makes me think I'm in the wrong scale. (It's looking at the room I have available that tells me I'm not. ) What can I say, I'm impressed. It looks really good. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Allen Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 Excellent thread OzzyO. Not a GWR man, but great to read how this is coming along. Fully condone the use of Maxon motors. Think I was one of the first to go this route and certainly remember supplying my own motors to ABC before they started to offer them. Also good to see some of your own techniques and fixes to improve the kit. :thumbsup: (can we have that emoticon please ?) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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