ozzyo Posted May 3, 2011 Author Share Posted May 3, 2011 Hello All, it's been a while since I up-dated this thread, so some more photos of a Castle build, this is not the one that I am doing at the moment but it shows all the steps involved in the build. The top part of the horn guides soldered to a length of brass for drilling and tapping 12BA. I now use the one piece horn guide castings. The N/S frames soldered together and all the springs and brackets removed. The axle center lines have been marked on the frames and the plunger pick-up holds drilled, I may have drilled the frames for the brake hangers and the safety chain as well. Before splitting the two frames I will cut out the horn guide openings. The rear, middle and front frame spacers with some of the parts that I will remove marked out. More will be removed later. Three photos of the frames with the top bracket of the horn guides in place, along with the front and middle frame spacers and the rear weigh shaft bracket.. You can also see where I have filled in one of the plunger pick-up holes and moved it up. Two of the jigs that I use for helping to keep the frames square while I solder them together. The front frame spacer when first soldered in place. And after further modification, the front weigh shaft is in place along with its levers. More to follow soon. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 Hi Ozzyo, Look forward to the next chapter, will you be at Reading on Saturday ? Or is that a bit to far South . ATB, Martyn. P.S. off hand do you remember what diameter drills you use before tapping 10BA and 12BA threads. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G Posted May 4, 2011 Share Posted May 4, 2011 Ozzyo Just caught up with this...sensational stuff, keep it coming it's very inspirational. Even if I don't model in 7mm. regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 4, 2011 Author Share Posted May 4, 2011 Hello Martyn / All, Reading is a bit to far south for me and it would cost about £90 on the train. Tapping sizes for 10BA 1.4mm, for 12BA 1.05mm recommended I use 1.0mm, a lot easier to get hold of. Now on to the build. The rear horns of the rear horn guides soldered in place in the frames and checked for squareness across and vertically in the frames. The front of the rear horn guides in place along with the horn blocks. And with the keeper plates in place. Making the horn guides for the middle and front horns. One of the guides soldered to the keeper plate. For this I used 188deg. solder. The second guide in place. Checking the fit of the horn block Fitting the middle set of horns and blocks to the frames, the same approach was used for the front. This was before I got my Hobby Holidays chassis jig. The springs cleaned up, L to R rear, middle, front. On the front ones you have to remove two of the bolt heads from the rear spring hanger. The springs in place. This also now shows you why you have to modify the frame spacers. The front brake hangers cleaned up and drilled for the vacuum brake arm. The brake pivots are 3/64" rivets. The first one in place, this is the reason that you have to remove the two bolt heads from the rear spring hangers, this is also the reason for moving the front pick-ups up. The front brake shaft and bearings in place, you can also see the vac cylinder in place. To mount this I use two short lengths of 2mm brass tube soldered in to the frames. The vac. cylinder from above. The second front brake hanger in place along with the brake arm (this needs about 1.5mm removing from the arm), sorry about the photo quality, but these were for my own use. The front brake arm in place ( this needs to be extended by about 2mm) The frame overlays in place, the brass bar across the frames to the rear of the middle spacer is use to anchor the motor and gearbox to. More to follow, next time will be the brakes and maybe the injectors. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 5, 2011 Author Share Posted May 5, 2011 Hello All, this thread is turning out like buses non for ages then three come along at once. Anyway on to the build. One of the brake cross beams with the safety chains fitted, for fitting the chains I drill a 0.7mm hole and use some 0.3 copper wire shaped like a split pin to hold them in place. The middle and rear brake pivots in place, This is a fun bit! These are the 6'8" driving wheels, the correct size for a Castle. The crank pin is in line with the spokes, These are the 6'6" driving wheels, crank pin between the spokes and the strengthening web. I have seen photos of Castles with both type of wheel on them at the same time. We cant do that yet! Then we come to the balance weights these are a mine field. The brake shoes in place, The cross beams and pull rods in place A close up of the brake adjusters, this is more to show which way round they go The rear sandboxes, on these I M/C a rebate (or a rabbit if you watch the New Yankee Workshop) about 1.5mm deep and 4mm from the bottom, The sand pipes for the first type of sanding on the Castles. The sandboxes were up under the footplate in the cab. The intermediate reversing rods and grease separator in place Live steam injector and pipe work Exhaust steam injector and pipe work, on both of these photos you can see a pipe pointing to you, these are the overflow pipes that run under the footplate steps and are mounted on the body Both of the injectors from the rear The rear sand pipes in place, I like to keep these and the brake shoes as close as I can to the prototype or as close as running will allow Next time, the speedo and finishing off the frames. OzzyO. PS. got a phone call yesterday from one of my mates, would I like his spare ticket to go and see Rodger Waters performing the wall. You can guise my answer if you know my email address. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale7JB Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 I want the ticket haha! Would you not have got away with that gap between the two 6'8" drivers ? If the axles are sprung, you could try re-profiling the wheels with a scale7 tool to increase the distance betwix..? JB. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 5, 2011 Author Share Posted May 5, 2011 I want the ticket haha! Would you not have got away with that gap between the two 6'8" drivers ? If the axles are sprung, you could try re-profiling the wheels with a scale7 tool to increase the distance betwix..? JB. Give me an offer I've got it for £80, now put a nought on the end and its yours! I would have preferred it if it was Gilmore . On to the wheels, there is no problem with them (the 6' 8" ones) as long as you don't get the brake hanger to to close to the flange. I have in the passed taken 0.5mm off the diameter of the flange with no bad results to the running. All I was trying to show was how close the flanges are when you use the 6' 8" wheels. My bank account details are ####### ########## so now give me your money please JP .Theses tickets are a bit like rocking house s41t or hens teeth. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 ....This is a fun bit! These are the 6'8" driving wheels, the correct size for a Castle. ..... OMG I knew they were close, but not that close! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 fantastic work some interesting pics of castle wheels here... http://www.miac.org.uk/campbell2.htm Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 Very nice work on the castle ozzyo, really inspirational Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 OMG I knew they were close, but not that close! What fun i'll have when I get to the Malcom Mitchell one in P4! I didn't look at which fudge Hornby went for on the new RTR one. I do love the chunkiness of some of the castings and stuff in 7mm. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 Hi Ozzyo, You certainly know your stuff when it comes to the Castle's , GWR's finest in my opinion . Your thread will really come in handy one day, once I have got through all the rest of my kits which are gathering dust at the moment , mind you I blame this delay on the recent house move . Keep up the good work, and I'll have a pint in your abscence at Reading on Saturday B). ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale7JB Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 I didn't look at which fudge Hornby went for on the new RTR one. Is it true the old Triang 9f was actually too long because of the size of the flanges ? Might have to give that ticket a miss mate, but if only... !! JB. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted May 5, 2011 Share Posted May 5, 2011 What fun i'll have when I get to the Malcom Mitchell one in P4!... That's partly why I chose a "King" Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 6, 2011 Author Share Posted May 6, 2011 What fun i'll have when I get to the Malcom Mitchell one in P4! I didn't look at which fudge Hornby went for on the new RTR one. I do love the chunkiness of some of the castings and stuff in 7mm. Hello Craig, I don't think you should have any problems with the wheels in P4, I think the problem will be when you come to fit the slide bar brackets and get them between the flanges. I'll see if I've got any photos that show the slide bar brackets from the front or the rear so you can see how we over came the problem in 7mm. More to follow soon. OzzyO. PS. thanks for the commentates (is that spelt right) ALL..Martyn you have a pint of two for me mate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 6, 2011 Author Share Posted May 6, 2011 Hello All, now onto the final installment of the frames. Tapping the return cracks 10BA, I use the method of mounting small parts on to a length of 1/4" X 1/32" brass for drilling and tapping small parts. The mounting bracket for the speedo from above And from below, you can see a small hole in the bracket just in front of the number 4, this is for the boiler feed water pipe. Craig, you can see how we get around the problem of over scale flanges with the slide bar support brackets in this photo mounted to the top of the frames and to the front brake hangers. HTH. The speedo in place. For aligning it I use a length of 3/16" silver steel with the end turned down to 1mm, pop it through the axle holes and in to the center of the speedo. The feed water pipe in place, this helps to add a bit of rigidity to the bracket as most of it can't be seen. The same as above but a bit more to the rear Two views of the completed frames I guess that I dint check the clearance for the drive gear before I painted the frames The motor and gearbox in place along with the pick-up wires. You can see the wire restraint for the motor in this shot. The up stand can also be used for mounting a DDC chip to. The next lot will be on building the upper works. Unless your all fed up with me now. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 Thanks for the picture of the slidebar bracket and how you've dealt with it. I'll see if I need it when I eventually get around to building mine! Please do keep it coming, its great seeing all the detail in there. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 6, 2011 Author Share Posted May 6, 2011 Thanks for the picture of the slidebar bracket and how you've dealt with it. I'll see if I need it when I eventually get around to building mine! Please do keep it coming, its great seeing all the detail in there. Hello Craig, this may help you a bit more, This was a Star that I built without using the S.D.K. so the slide bars are laminated and the slide bar brackets are etched N/S which are more likely in the 4mm kit. You can see a small cutout in the the rear of the bracket to clear the flanges. As this one was built ridged no need to take in to account any up and down movement of the wheels. HTH OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithg Posted May 6, 2011 Share Posted May 6, 2011 Hi Ozzyo. Pleased this thread is continuing, although I think a King in 0 gauge is out of my league. Since reading & re-reading this whole subject I have completed the tender to 2251. Must admit I couldn't have done the build without the kindness of your self, both on this site & e-mail etc. Fully understand you not venturing down to Reading Ozzyl, however I shall certainly be going, if only to see whether JLTRT have re-written their GWR 3000 gallon tender instructions for their web site shows a new kit for this product for May 2011. Now to start the "baby castle", which I know will need me to study all those great pictures displayed on this thread. Again thanks Ozzyo. Kind regards Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 Hello Craig, some more photos of the slide bar brackets for you, OzzyO. PS. I see we have some new emoticons. I think this one may get some use . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 Hello All, some more photos of the frames this time of 5099. The exhaust steam injector from the outside and inside The overflow pipes fitted to the live and exhaust steam injectors, you can also see the pipes soldered to the bottom of the cab steps, the overflow pipes are cut through just behind the steps with a piercing saw Four photos of the frames loosely fitted to the footplate As you can see I still have the sand pipes still to fit, but apart from them the frames are finished. I forgot about the speedo as well. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 Ozzy How are you going to get rid of all that staining on the chassis? Just interested, not fault finding....which would be difficult given the quality of this build - exceptionally detailed work, congratulations you must be pleased with the way it's turned out. regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 I might have missed the meaning of SDK earlier in the thread (to me it means Software Development Kit!) but I assume its the brass castings that make your Castle look so much better than the Star. The more 3D springs and bracket make a huge difference. Even in 4mm a cast bracket would probably be an improvement actually though the laminated ones from the 28xx look alright now i've cleaned them up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 Ozzy How are you going to get rid of all that staining on the chassis? Just interested, not fault finding....which would be difficult given the quality of this build - exceptionally detailed work, congratulations you must be pleased with the way it's turned out. regards Mike Hello Mike, as long as that is all it is staining and not lumps of solder and is 'flat' I don't worry about it to much. As long as the frames are clean the paint will cover it all up. The frames still have to be ultrasonically cleaned yet as well. I'm not one of these people who subscribes to the its got to be shiny to be clean. Two photos of a Castle with a brass boiler, one was taken with flash and one without. I think the loco still had to be ultrasonically cleaned, some times the U/S cleaning can stain the surface but that is all it will be. Craig, S.D.K. = super detailing kit, you are correct it's the springs, brakes and a lot more. It's mostly on the frames and I do think that it's worth it. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 5099 is coming on a treat. I've started my layout thread, dock street. Feel free to post some pics of the castle on there aswell. Hope fully by the time she roles out of the paint shop the boards will be built and some track will be down. Ozzy are you sure your not a swindonian and a shop was never destroyed just miniaturised and sent up t north !!!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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