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Farish class 24s


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Hi everyone,

 

Still waiting for my 24 to make it's way down here and reading the comment's with interest. It does look like a 24 to me.

 

It's worth considering on the roof curve that nearly all views in photos of 24s are taken below roof level looking up and all the photos of the models are above looking down, it's probably better to compare apples with apples before you plan a rebuild.

 

Have a look at this view.

 

http://www.derbysulzers.com/5064kingscross.jpg

 

all the best

 

Peter

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I like yellow-panel-less green diesels and I've already got one of Farish's Class 37s in just such a livery - is it realistic to have these two working alongside each other? I've been trying to come up with a green-diesel project ever since I bought the darn thing...

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  • 2 weeks later...

We still have some in stock, BR Blue and Two-tone green. The Bachmann web site states all the green livery class 24's are sold-out. Again like the class 47 a smooth model ran straight from the box, shame about the lights that dim when slow running. Can't wait to see the "Teddy bear's" arrive AKA Class 14.

 

Kev

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  • 2 weeks later...

Whilst fitting headcode discs to both nose-ends, pipes and steps to one buffer beam, I noticed that there aren't any screw couplings supplied - despite the instruction leaflet guidance. huh.gif

 

Did anyone get the screw couplings supplied?

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Again like the class 47 a smooth model ran straight from the box, shame about the lights that dim when slow running.

 

Hmm, to be prototypical the lights should only ever be dim on a Class 24 and would rarely be used in daylight, certainly in the '60s/early '70s.

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It's worth considering on the roof curve that nearly all views in photos of 24s are taken below roof level looking up and all the photos of the models are above looking down, it's probably better to compare apples with apples before you plan a rebuild.

'nuff said looking at Marcus's first 3 pics, think given the likley distance you are going to look at an N gauge model from I think it will 'do' and along with some of the other nice new stuff its very tempting!

 

I still stand by the fact that if Bachmann didnt think the 'OO' one was worth re-doing then this wasnt going to be any different, especially as the defect is less obvious the smaller it gets!

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I still stand by the fact that if Bachmann didnt think the 'OO' one was worth re-doing then this wasnt going to be any different, especially as the defect is less obvious the smaller it gets!

 

Russ

 

I am not so sure about that - IIRC the Farish Peak included some improvements on the OO version....

 

Mike

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Whilst fitting headcode discs to both nose-ends, pipes and steps to one buffer beam, I noticed that there aren't any screw couplings supplied - despite the instruction leaflet guidance. huh.gif

 

Did anyone get the screw couplings supplied?

 

Not separate ones like the very nice Dapol ones. There were some coupling hooks with a bit of misshapen blobby plastic drippling off them - I presume that was meant to be the screw coupler hanging off the hook. But I'm not sure about replacing the already fitted hooks - they don't easliy pull out and are probably glued in.

 

G.

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I am not so sure about that - IIRC the Farish Peak included some improvements on the OO version....

Fair do's, but they knew they were going to re-do the Peak and have done for some time. There's been nothing on improvements to the OO 24 25 (or even filling the gaps- someone tell me to 'shut it' before I get onto the 'headcode' 24's and 25/0's- which were mre prolific than some of minority classes now being produced in OO- and even N class 14 anyone? :lol: :lol: :lol: )

 

Shut it! B) :lol:

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Mmm, the 24 looks good with the Mercig touch!

I'd go with the etched TPM couplings too, they are so much finer than the plastic one Dapol supply, by nature of the fact they are etched metal, not moulded plastic.

The 'blob' on the Farish one is a screwlink in the stowed position, sort of hooked back on itself, like this picture, and it represents this quite well IMO, so I tend to use either this or a TPM one, depending what position I'd like the coupling in

yzhtgq.jpg

cheers

 

jo

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Mmm, the 24 looks good with the Mercig touch!

I'd go with the etched TPM couplings too, they are so much finer than the plastic one Dapol supply, by nature of the fact they are etched metal, not moulded plastic.

 

BrassN also do etched couplings, I've got some but they seem almost too fine and hardly visiable.

 

The 'blob' on the Farish one is a screwlink in the stowed position, sort of hooked back on itself,

 

Hmm, not so sure that blob of plastic is meant to be it hooked/stowed up - there doesn't appear to be anything on the hook itself where the free end would rest. However, you can fold the etched ones to represent it stowed.

 

G.

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Hi

 

I used the screw couplings that are available from TPM, as can be seen in the photo, hope that helps.

 

 

Very nice work on the 24 Mercig - have been waiting for it to appear on your website gallery so thanks for the sneak preview!

 

Inspiring as ever...

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Very nice work on the 24 Mercig - have been waiting for it to appear on your website gallery so thanks for the sneak preview!

 

Inspiring as ever...

 

Hi

 

Thanks for the kind words...the website will be receiving a much needed make over towards the end of this month in particular the gallery sections which will be totally different locos to what is showing at the moment.

 

Cheers M

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  • 1 month later...

Has anyone undertaken a "correcting" project on one of these beasties yet?

It would be interesting to see a before and after.

And of course the 2mm Soc now has drop in replacement wheels now so has anyone taken the plunge?

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  • 4 weeks later...

Has anyone undertaken a "correcting" project on one of these beasties yet?

It would be interesting to see a before and after.

And of course the 2mm Soc now has drop in replacement wheels now so has anyone taken the plunge?

 

Hi

 

I'm considering modifying the roof but haven't got any further than considering yet.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

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  • 1 month later...

I've not figured out how to get sound in one yet. I think you'd get a CT SL75 in if you were willing to remove the PCB and hardwire the decoder, and sacrifice all the lights and cab interior one end for a speaker but I've not yet found a more suitable speaker that would replace most of the fuel tank (with some chassis mods needed)

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Hi

 

I'm considering modifying the roof but haven't got any further than considering yet.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

 

I've started doing so today. The original misplaced seam comes off quite easily with a sharp scalpel and some of the finer microstrip from the bit box seems to match for height very well with the lines. Once the filler has set where I'm removing the water fillers for this loco I'll put the microstrip over it. Fiddly but certainly doable.

 

post-6740-127214372328_thumb.jpg

 

The steam boiler grilles on the early one don't look fun to remove but to my surprise the "plated" edges come off easily so there's probably scope to remove that and reproduce it the right size if you wanted.

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