Tim's painting and weathering workbench

[Timara]

7 hours ago, Barry O said:

Tim  keep IPA (not the beer) and thinners away from Hornby lining as well.. i had to add lines to a loco "professionally" weathered which had excess weathering paint removed using thinners and IPA..not good!!!

Baz

 

Absolutely!  The only time that stuff (with a bit of water added, as active ingredient) goes near a model is if I want to strip a body back to bare plastic.

[modelmaker87]

Tim,  

 

T-Cut sucks.  Period.  I use a softer gentler approach to replicate the shine of a just cleaned engine, I use clear shoe polish.  With an 'ear bud'  I can replicate the polishing circles that were always clearly seen on the side of all the larger flat surfaces.  At certain reflective light angles they show up perfectly just as they did on the prototype.  From a modelling viewpoint you never have to worry about paint damage.  The polish will wear off as it did on the prototype and subsequently I re-polish.  No different than when a locomotive wenty on shed after its day on duty.   

 

Cheers, Tony

Edited February 9, 2020 by modelmaker87

[Barry O]

Just try turtle wax or a similar car polish...it doesn't need redoing.

Baz

[Jub45565]

On 09/02/2020 at 19:44, Barry O said:

Just try turtle wax or a similar car polish...it doesn't need redoing.

Baz

 

I've never had an issue with T-cut, but known to be careful around transfers which don't want removing.

 

Always interested in finding easier or better ways though - is there a specific variant of turtle wax you use? I see there are some labelled as 'restorer' which presumably have the same small abrasive bits to remove transfer which don't want removing - is there a gentler version?

[Barry O]

Just big standard car wax..had a tin for years...never used it on a car!

Baz