RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted March 6, 2011 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 6, 2011 Hoppers part 3... The plates on the top of the underframe was added next to make it rigid. The frame of the hopper is made from 1mm/1.2mm plastic angle and 20thou Evergreen strip. One wagon uses 18" of the angle... The body resting on the underframe. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 Tell you what Mr Worsdell, if you hadn't shown me the pictures last week of these I would have questioned whether they were right or not, they are truly a funny looking little thing! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted March 7, 2011 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 7, 2011 Forging ahead... (ironstone, forging, get it? Sorry...) The body is now attached by the end and side stanchions, quite a lot of the suspension units had to be removed to fit the hopper in the correct position and as they could be seen through the gap around the hopper. The axleboxes are not quite correct and will be modified before I'm finished. Monkey tails (part of the door catch mechanism) have been added, glued around the inner chassis, although one of them needs trimming. The brake gear was a bit of a puzzle, I think this is something like it should be, made up from bits of fret waste, 0.9mm and 0.45mm brass wire. 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 The brake gear looks very impressive! I don't know if you've used the Slater's etched fret for the 20T coal hoppers which gives outside axleguards as well as new brakegear before but it also includes the parts for the end-on brake levers and some of the cranks used on the central division wagons, this could be useful for you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted March 7, 2011 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 7, 2011 Hi James, Actually forgot to mention that the lever is from the MSE NER detailing fret (mostly useful for signs and mile posts). It seems all different wagon types have completely different brake gear. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 I'd forgotten about the fret - which is something I ought to get round to properly inspecting. You would have thought it would be easy as Mr MSE is building a layout about ten yards from Botanic in the clubrooms! When is the first expo outing for these wagons? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted March 8, 2011 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 8, 2011 Hopefully be able to see them at Middlesbrough James. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted March 13, 2011 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 13, 2011 Further detailing has taken place. Outside axleguards have been added, made from 20thou plasticard, they should have a joggle out just below the solebar, I have represented this by filing this bit down to about half the thickness. Handrails are made from .45mm wire and steps are bent up from brass fret waste and supported on .45mm wire. Buffers are 51L Midland Railway wagon buffers with NER steps added to the tops. Access ladder rungs are .45mm wire superglued to the frame. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 Hi WF Your work is very admirable. Going back to the cutting out stage, how do you mark out and cut the plastic, the assembly looks so neat and square.? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted March 13, 2011 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 13, 2011 Hi RH, Glad you like it, the best way to mark and cut out cleanly and square is to start out with good quality tools. A good quality hard (about 3H) pencil, a good thin steel rule, I use a 6" Rabone, cheap ones can be a bit rough and too thick, thin ones seem much easier to draw an accurate line against. Cut out with the same steel rule and a new Swan Morton scalpel blade (a couple of light-ish passes then snap it off) and clean the edges up gently with a good fine needle file, I have managed to collect quite a few Stubbs files, usually found on second hand tool stands at model engineering shows, which unlike cheap ones cut well and evenly and don't clog as badly. But most of all practice!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted March 13, 2011 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 13, 2011 Hoppers part 3... One wagon uses 18" of the angle... Measured this again and it is actually 20". Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 Looking very nice indeed Hopefully be able to see them at Middlesbrough James. That's not normally one we go to, but you never know! Will they make an appearance at Goathland in the summer?! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted March 15, 2011 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 15, 2011 Hi James, I'm not taking a layout myself, after having two there last year I still need a rest! I may have them with me if I remember. Painting and weathering. The whole lot was sprayed with Plasticote grey primer and as this is near enough BR grey I didn't give the body anything more, the underframe was painted black as were the lettering patches on the sides. After it was lettered I started weathering, the rust patches were added using Games Workshop 'Scorched Brown' acrylic (quite a tame name for them!) applied with a small brush (0000) it's quite a worn one and the bristles are a bit bent at the end which came in useful for different shaped rust patches. I tried using a cocktail stick as Matto21 has on his 24t wagon but I couldn't get away with this method. The next stage was to use powders to muck it all up. I've been using some that bought a while ago from Penhaven Modelling Products (sadly no longer available), I've used a kind of dark purply/black/brown colour followed with some light rust then muted down with some grey. All sealed with Humbrol satin varnish from an aerosol. I think it's gone OK, let me know what you think. Now must get the second one finished... 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Fantastic work well done Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 Quite agree, top stuff, Paul. You've rattled through it very quickly too; I've got scratchbuilt wagons simpler than that which I've been tinkering with for over a year. Look forward to seeing them up close. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dave.C Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 Will they make an appearance at Goathland in the summer?! I'm not taking a layout myself, after having two there last year I still need a rest! I may have them with me if I remember. You could park it in a corner of my scrap yard 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 Your scrap yard looked like the Pikies had been in and unloaded their ill gotten gains!!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted March 28, 2011 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 28, 2011 I was rummaging through my Ironstone hopper stock box and I was wondering how many different types of hopper I had. It turns out that I now have 8 different types. LNER/BR 25t, scratchbuilt. BR 13t steel, Bradwell Kit. LMS 20t, scratchbuilt. This one will get a repaint sometime, I was experimenting... LNER/BR 13t wood, David Geen kit. BR 25 1/2t, 51L kit. BR 24t, Bachmann (have quite a few of these) LNER/BR 20/21t, Hornby. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted May 31, 2011 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted May 31, 2011 I'm currently building an Alexander Models J27 (yes another although not for me this time) and I decided to see if I could make the regulator handle move. I soldered a bit of brass wire to the handle that I bent up from a piece of fret, this was passed through a .5mm hole in the backhead and bent over, stops, made from Evergreen strip, were then superglued to the back. The wire rubs on the casting to keep the handle in position. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 Working water gauge glasses next? 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted May 31, 2011 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted May 31, 2011 Working water gauge glasses next? If you can supply some .5mm (or less) OD copper tube to feed them I might just consider it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 If you can supply some .5mm (or less) OD copper tube to feed them I might just consider it. Try Finney & Smith. You should see the mini-tubes they've got! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pennine MC Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 Came to look at this bleedin' regulator, found the hoppers as well 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted May 31, 2011 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted May 31, 2011 Came to look at this bleedin' regulator, found the hoppers as well See, I wasn't swearing at you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 Working water gauge glasses next? Give it a couple of hours and one of these clever DCC kids will have a servo on it and make it control the speed of the loco. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now