Mr Simon's 7mm workbench - currently Leeds Convert Tram

[MrSimon]

Hello everybody!

I have finally decided to take the plunge and give scratch building in O Gauge a whirl. This will represent a number of firsts for me:

Firstly: My first go modelling anything larger than N in 20 years
Secondly: My first go doing anything "modelling-y" in card
Thirdly: My first proper go at scratch building anything thats not scenery.
Fourthly: My first go at modelling trams.

Hopefully, if I can get my first few trams looking like trams, I will build a layout for them to run on.

The first trams I am building are part of the collection at Crich, I have photos of what I thought were the difficult bits and I can always go up to crich and take some more.

This morning a package arrived from Terry Russell (www.terryrusselltrams.co.uk) with some Ivorex modelling board and a scale drawing so I just had to give it a go tonight, even though I forget to get glue when I was in town today


Exhibit A: A Scale Drawing of a Leeds Tramways 'Beeston Airbrake' 4 wheel tram, which will be modelled as number 499 in its present condition at Crich (because I like yellow)


Exhibit B: Ivorex Modelling board, also known as Bristol Board. I've never used this before, and I will document how I find it on here... from what I understand about its properties it could be useful for making larger scale coaches too.


Exhibit C: Terry Russell's booklet "build a model tramcar in O Gauge" I'm aiming to build the first tram exactly as it says in the book, but I will document the bits I can't quite get right, or where I find a different way of doing something.

This evening I decided to start with a test piece to see how Ivorex works. The first stumbling block I came across was marking and cutting in the right place on the card. My set square is in storage, so I didn't really want to risk copying the side onto the card (in case of wonky angles) so I pin pricked through the drawing onto the card and then joined the dots. It wasn't the best way to do it because I didn't quite pin prick in the right places and I'm pretty sure the drawing moved halfway through the side - but I'll correct that when I start the tramcar properly.

Bristol Board/Ivorex is good for making model trams because if you lick it and bend it, it dries and keeps its shape. The reason for trying on a whole downstairs side was to give modelling a "tumblehome" a try. I need another go at this because it didn't work too well, but not bad for a first attempt. I also need to clear the burrs from around the window frames, but here is my first try at modelling in 7mm:


I'll try another test piece tomorrow.

Lots to do

Simon

[PLD]

 

Exhibit A: A Scale Drawing of a Leeds Tramways 'Beeston Airbrake' 4 wheel tram, which will be modelled as number 499 in its present condition at Crich (because I like yellow)

 

Assume you mean 399 Simon...

 

 

Personally, like the tram, don't like the livery but watching with interest.

 

Paul

[MrSimon]

Hi Paul,

 

Yep I meant 399, I even wrote it and then changed it - and I've no idea why!

 

At some stage I'd like to build a second one in the blue livery, but its slightly down the list (below a Pilcher but above the Lance Corporal) but the Horsefield I also have drawings for will be in red.

 

Thanks for posting the picture, when I went up to Crich in September 399 was in the workshop so I could only get detailed pictures of the front and I was scratching my head slightly when doing the fan lights last night. As they're all brown I won't stick them down until they're painted!

 

Thanks again

 

Simon

[Red Devil]

Great stuff, I wil 'warn' you, I'm sort of working on the CAD for L/Corp, and one of two others with a view to 'printing' them the Shapeways method, it's probably the nearest we''ll ever get to Bachornpol producing an rtr version of something you've just finished scratchbuilding! Midd Bogie CAD is being redone for 7mm............

Mark.

[MrSimon]

Ah, the dangers of scratch building! Whats the Shapeways meathod?

 

Simon

[Red Devil]

Ah, the dangers of scratch building! Whats the Shapeways meathod?

 

Simon

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/blog/172/entry-6098-shapeways-middleton-bogie-arrives/

 

Some stuff on my blog you might find interesting!

[MrSimon]

Hello everybody!

 

Nothing done on the tram last night, but tonight I got the glue out and had another go at the "tumblehome" - it worked better this time:

 

Unfortunately I misread the instruction book and instead of bending the curves on a 12mm diameter piece of wood I bent it round a 12mm knitting needle - which isn't the same thing - but on the third attempt (which should be a usable side) I'll get it right! This time I had the glue so I cut and fitted the strengthening strip below the level of the glazing, which would have worked amazingly if I'd used the right former...

 

Not being defeated by this, i decided to use the next part of my evening on test-building stairs to the meathod outlined in the book. Here is the staircase marked out on the bristol board prior to cutting:

 

The risers are 0.5mm shorter than needed (as instructed) but I found it quite hard to get them consistantly 0.5mm shorter, so when I make another set of stairs I'll use my caliphers.

 

Here is my first attempt at a 180 degree staircase. I didn't start far enough from the edge of the board so I didn't have space for the top riser - when I make the actual stairs for the tram (and maybe a few others sets) I will either draw out the staircase net on the computer and paste it to the card - so they turn out the same. I'll try a bit of filler on these stairs to see how they scrub up, as it were. I'm also going to look at a few more pictures of the prototype/prototypical 180 stairs to see how the inner "stringer" fits, and how easily I could replicate it - I may need thinner board!

 

Thats all for tonight - tommorrow I'll see if I can track down the right size bit of dowell to form the side of the tram - or I might make a start on the (flat sided) top deck. I'll also see if theres anywhere lighter to take pics

 

Lots to do!

 

Simon

[MrSimon]

Hello everybody!

 

I've been able to do some work on the tram today, with the hope of doing some more later this evening - bonus

 

First up, the side I did last week has warped:

 

I'm not completely sure of the cause, I think its a combination of it being a bit cold/dampish where I've been storing the tram, also there might have been a bit of natural curl in the bristol board - and I might have been meant to let the sides dry before glueing the inner and outer together.

 

While I give it some thought I decided to crack on with the rocker panel free upper deck. This afternoon I marked out the sides and ends of the upper deck, and then I cut out the two layers needed for the floor.:

 

This evening I'll put a new blade in my knife and get the windows cut out, and maybe the ends rolled. My aim for this week is to get the top floor in one piece, without the seats or roof.

 

Lots to do!

 

Simon

[MrSimon]

Hello everybody!

 

Last night I got the top deck sides and ends cut out and the ends curved:

 

Here the end and the strengthener are drying - I found the board straightens out if left to dry without being in shape - a lesson learned for the sides I think! I need to curve the top of the window but leave the bar between the main pane and the toplight straight. I also need to decide whether I actually want to model 399 or a different Beeston Airbrake; because the picture of 399 above shows the front destination box as a part of the main window pane, but my drawing shows it as being in the toplight.

 

I stuck the ends and sides to the floor. It needs a bit of filling and the ends of the floor trimming, but its much better than I thought it'd be! I measured and cut out the door at the top of the stairs, and will fit them when I've trimmed the floor.

 

Next major bit of tram to make will be the platforms - I decided that once these are done the downstairs sides I've been struggling with should be a doddle!

 

Lots to do

 

Simon

[MrSimon]

Hello everybody!

 

I'm beginning to see the problem of trying to make models in the darkest house ever lived in - I can't see to stick things together properly - I can't complain too much because its not my house and I'm not paying rent - but the pic below shows mistakes that I just couldn't see when I was sticking it together last night:

 

The plus side of this picture is it shows how I've (probably) got the hang of making the 'tumblehome' by rolling it on a number 12 knitting needle. If I go into production making many more non-flatsided cars I will look into making a press to shape and hold the dampened board in place and make all the sides uniform. I still need to make the rubbing strip so go on the side, but I will do this when I get hold of some balsa. I made a slight mistake with the bulkheads, the instruction book said to make them as a card-glass-card sandwich with the doors being split in half to make two layers - I mis read this in the gloom, thought I had to make the whole bulkhead as split layers around the glass and decided to leave it unglazed - I've since re-read it, realised my error and will do some work to rectify it!

 

Here is the upstairs resting on the downstairs.

 

The dashes and screens. I think I'm going to re-do these as on one of them the front screen sits too far back and on both I mis read the plan and made the side screen too long. Also, I might have got the height slightly off - I either need to make it shorter so the cantrail can be solid - sitting on the top of the screen, or taller so the cantrail wraps round the screen. Also, the joins between the side windows need to be neatened up... and then theres the question of stairs!

 

All the body sections in place. The lower saloon is sitting on the floor instead of hanging from the upstairs roof, so it looks a bit odd, I've not cut out the lower deck fanlights yet and I've got the work on the bulkheads to do as mentioned above.

 

In the book (build a model tramcar in O gauge) it says to stain the interior of the tram with wood stain - I'm not sure whether to do this or use wood coloured paint, which I am much more comfortable with! It also recommends the use of some substances that I'm not familiar with as an N Gauge modeller. These being:

 

*Body putty - which is "a plastic cement that dries hard and can be sanded"

*Sanding Sealer - I assume this is some sort of wood filler but if I'm please correct me

*Self adhesive stationers tape -I assume this to be like that car lining tape you used to be able to buy or maybe something like a dymo machine refill but I'm not sure.

 

If anyone can recommend a brand for the body putty (and the tape) I will be so grateful - I've found some wood filler in Homebase (Ronseal) but not bought it yet, so if this is the wrong also please let me know!

 

Lots to do!

 

Simon

[MrSimon]

Hello Everybody!

 

Its been a while, but basically during a housemove the tram got a bit squashed and I lost the cabs.  So now I'm in a new flat after another housemove I thought I'd have another go at building a tram while I consider my options with Gresby.

 

Rather than try again with the Beeston Airbrake I decided to try one of the other sets of plans I had.  This time its a convert car.  I'm not doing it as 345, but its the same style.  Terry Russel provides a plan for the Leeds Balcony cars that the converts were made from; but not the converts themselves.  Its OK though, I had a look through the pictures on the NTM website and all the converts seem slightly different, so the converted part of mine has been done based on photos both of 345 and old pictures of the other converts. 

 

I think its going to be numbered 342, because that wasn't converted... if that makes sense?

 

Firstly I had to alter the drawing.  So I could do it clearly I used tracing paper to draw out the alterations.

 

Then I had to scratch my head a bit when I drew out the ends - being the main feature of the tram I decided to do the top deck first so I could quietly bit it and go back to N Gauge coaches if it went horribly wrong.

 

 

I cut out the floor, with a cut out for the stairwell then marked out where the seats should go and had a guess about the front seats.  The plan I had was for a reversed stair car, but the converts had normal stairs so I copied the opening from the airbrake but without the glass partition around the top, and with forward facing seats above the stairs.  Then I stuck slats onto the floor, they seem a bit thick but I'm still a bit hazy about the size of things in O.

 

Pictures of 345 show that the curvy bit on the front seems to be stuck on proud of the rest of the body, and if its not mine is... I don't really want to use the word pelmet, but I can't think what else to call it at the mo - but what ever its called I made it out of thinner board to the rest of the body and measured it against the front of windows before cutting it out and fitting it.

 

The finished front.  The destination boxes need to be centered before they're cut all the way through, but this end turned out OK.  I need to alter and finish the other end and I'll take some more pictures.

 

I'm determined to get this finished.

 

Lots to do!

 

Simon

[MrSimon]

Hello Everybody!

 

Today's post is brought to you by the words "Hurrah" and "Argh"

 

Firstly the Hurrah... I've finished the second end, which I needed to take off and set slightly further out after realising I'd cut it too short:

 

I was just starting to build the seat base that goes over the end of the stairwell and I did a google search to see if I could find any top deck interior/roof shots of Leeds 345 and found a video tour of the tram (Conductors eye view on youtube) and found the thing that made me go argh...

 

I had assumed that the tram would have a full 180 degree turn on the stairs, and left spaces for the seats accordingly.  The video showed that 345 has quarter turn stairs and I had allowed space for a seat where the quarter turn stairs would end.  This wouldn't normally be a problem but I had been super efficient and put slats of the floor around the seats... ok they were in the wrong place but I'm still calling it efficient haha (never had this trouble in N)

 

I moved all the slats around so I could put the seats in different positions (I had just worked from the seating plan on the tram drawing) but now I can't help thinking the slats would have been taken off when the tram was converted from a open balcony to fully enclosed... Argh!

 

Lots to do!

 

Simon

[MrSimon]

Hello Everybody!

 

Its been a while, I'm such a slow worker in O. 

 

I made a start on the seats.  Balsa bases and Bristol Board backs.  The book I'm using recommends making the seats in a strip that becomes invisible against the tram side.  We'll see if that happens.  Here are the seat bases being glued on to the Balsa strip.

 

Test fitted in the tram

 

After the first coat of wood stain.  To me as a life long N Gauge modeller it seems very odd using wood stain and emulsion paint on a model, but its what's recommended so I'm trying it out.  I found that the inside of the tram needed 4 coats of stain to get it looking more like wood.

 

I still need to stick little black strips between the back and base on the aisle side, and paint the cushions (with humbrol)

 

I've not just been working on the inside - I worked on the outside too.  First up, a coat of white emulsion which I sanded once dry.  Then I attacked it with some humbrol filler, which I sanded smooth.  I'm going to give the top deck another coat of white once I've cut out the route indicator windows, and then I'll add the bodyside beading, and then glaze it.

 

I rewatched the conductors eye view video and realised that the lower sides of the interior walls were red on Leeds 345, and the floor is black.  I think I should replicate this on my tram... before glazing it...

 

The downstairs salon sides, I bent the tumble-home around a large knitting needle, the Balsa bumper needs to be added before I can start painting the outside - and I can't do that until I've cut out the salon ends.

 

So much to do!  I had a shock realisation earlier - this is the biggest thing I've ever built.

 

Lots to do!

 

Simon

[MrSimon]

Hello Everybody!

 

I think I've got quite a lot done, but not too much... firstly - which took forever - I had to plot out the downstairs bulkheads.  To make them fit better I chose to make them square at the bottom and then cut them to shape against the sides.  Each bulkhead needed card on the inside and out with a glazing sandwich:

 

I stained both faces of the inside layer so I wouldn't get stain on the glazing while painting the window surrounds.  After a single coat of stain I fitted the glazing, cut roughly to the tram shape:

 

All ready to be cut to the shape.

 

I had a bit of an accident, which set me back slightly - I sliced my thumb while cutting out the destination boxes - I probably should have done it before I stained the inside.  I also painted the inside of the upper saloon red, its maybe a bit bright but nothing that can't be toned down a bit.

 

I gave everything another coat of white emulsion, to seal the downstairs parts, and mask the filler on the upper deck, but I think future coats over the filler will need to be in enamel/acrylic.  I also fitted some glazing to the one end of the top deck, just to see how it would look and how much work would be needed to fill the gaps.

 

I cut the bulkheads to shape and fitted them to the sides - each corner needed labeling because I didn't quite get the tumble-homes uniform

 

It needed a bit a of filling around the curved edges, but I can't make the downstairs into a box until I've fitted the glazing to the side windows - and I can't do that until I've painted the window pillars with their final coats of white... but as soon as the corners were dry I couldn't resist seeing how it would look with two decks...

 

There's quite a bit of painting to do before I can stick any more bits together, but I quite like painting

 

Lots to do!

 

Simon

[Londontram]

Hello Simon, just wondering how the Leeds tram is coming on? Regards Steve

[MrSimon]

Hi Steve,

 

I've made a bit of progress but not much.  First off I filled in the gaps between the glazing and the frame at the ends of the top deck - unfortunately the filler stuck to the windows, so I had to take the freshly installed windows back out.

 

I originally thought it was a bit of a step backwards having to take the glazing out, but having it stuck in meant that the filler would take the shape of the tram and hold it in place when it was set. 

 

I filled both ends, took the glazing back out, and sanded the filler smooth in the window pillars.  I uploaded this pair of pictures up ages ago and then completely forgot to post them.

 

Then it got pretty boring, lots of layers of white paint which aren't ever so photogenic or interesting!  If I'd been doing this car in the red livery there'd be plenty more painting to see

 

Also, I cleared the tram away before Christmas so it didn't get weathered with the iron ore tipplers I did in time to take home. 

 

I got the tram out today to give the windows and the filler another coat of white - hopefully the last coat of white on the top deck windows so I can glaze it again and fit the seats and roof. 

 

I need to fit the bumper-rail-thing on the bottom of the bottom deck waist panel, build and fit the seats, and make the saloon doors, and then I can start to finish off the bottom deck.

 

Lots to do!

 

Simon

 

[MrSimon]

Hello Everybody!

 

I'm delighted to announce the last coat of boring white paint went on to the tram earlier this week, and when it dried I was able to start (re)glazing the top deck!

 

 

I left the film on the inside of the glazing because I've got a bit of painting left to do on the interior, and know I'll end up smearing the windows with it...

 

After I got the last of the windows in I used lining tape to fit the beading that runs around the top deck and marks out the edges of the advert area (the ends of the original covered section) and then this afternoon I put the first coat of blue on:

 

 

It's my first try using Vallego acrylics.  I was unsure which shade to get, opting for Ultramarine initially, but then saw the Dark Prussian Blue which looked like it might be the better match.  I decided to use the Ultramarine as an undercoat if it looked too light, and it does.  It needs a bit of touching up and I'll use a smaller brush next time I think.

 

Does the coverage of the Vallego paints get better with the second coat?

 

Lots to do!

 

Simon

[Southernboy]

Good to see you continuing with this project Mr Simon, quite an interesting subject too.

 

In answer to your question: Yes, Vallejo points require two or three coats.

 

I just checked a few colour photos of the prototype ( http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Leeds_City_Tramways_Convert_Car_No._345) and the colour looks (to my mind - it's all very subjective) nearer a 'Royal Blue'.  I'd try mixing the Ultramarine and Prussian Blue to varying degrees to see how that turns out.

 

Are you using a rigger brush? Riggers are brushes used traditionally by sign-writers and have longer hairs than normal. They are excellent for painting in long, smooth lines along bodywork (for eg) - compared to shorter-haired brushes which require you to 'stop and start' more frequently, leaving a less-even finish.

 

When it's finished are you planning a little tramway to run it on?

 

Anyway, good luck - it's coming along nicely

[MrSimon]

Hi Mark,

 

I thought maybe Royal Blue but it seems too bright, the blue on 345 can look almost navy on a dark day so I agree a mix of Ultramarine and the Dark Prussian will work.  Will definitely arm myself with a longer bristled brush; I'm currently using my biggest Gresby-painting brush but really can't get used to the size of O gauge!

 

There's definitely a small tram layout bouncing around my mind, but its still a few trams away (And all those city buildings!)

 

Cheers

 

Simon

[Southernboy]

Well all I can say is well done for jumping from such a small scale to such a relatively large one and taking on all the challenges that it entails. It must take some getting used to!

[Red Devil]

The colour on the Leeds blue cars was referred to originally as 'Princess blue' and I'd say was considerably darker, I use a spray for it so can't help with an acrylic/enamel match, the colour you currently have is nearer to the light blue cars (which the converts never were) so unless it darkens considerably with several coats I'd think it would be too light. The white used was white, but with varnish and fading was normally an ivory fading even to cream (the fading and varnishing on the red cars is even more noticeable, some seem red and some seem almost burgundy even in the same picture).

[Red Devil]

Reading through the thread again, thought you may like to see this....

 

7mm Pilcher,in Manchester rather than Leeds livery, this is from one of my 3d prints, I've currently got a 4mm and 7mm Pilcher on the work bench 4mm in Leeds light blue, 7mm to be decided.....

 

Model and pictures by Craig Farrington and used with his permission.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[MrSimon]

Wowza if mine turns out as well as that I'll be happy - excellent modelling!  When I've got some money I'll be thinking hard about a Pilcher (and a 600)!

 

Well all I can say is well done for jumping from such a small scale to such a relatively large one and taking on all the challenges that it entails. It must take some getting used to!

 

Its definitely challenge and I'm still not used to it - even the lower saloon of this tram is larger than any of the buildings I made for Gresby, and the top deck seems enormous!  I'm not used to using the Ivorex/Bristol Board either, having only really worked in plastic before.

 

This morning I sanded smooth the bright blue coat and gave the top deck a trial coat of the Dark Prussian:

 

 

I think this is definitely more like the right colour!  I need to go round with a smaller brush around the beading, and then touch up where the big brush crept over... but if I smooth down the finish on the dark blue and then go over it with another coat or two of thinned down blue it should look good...

 

I hadn't realised that the lighter blue was also with white, I'd seen yellow-y pictures and assumed the livery was a bit like South Shields, I'd completely forgotten that varnish yellows...

 

Cheers

 

Simon

[MrSimon]

Hello Everybody!

 

It feels like I've done loads this week, but I really haven't... Things in O take so much longer than N!

 

Firstly, I went round the blue beading line with a fine brush so edge in a third coat of blue - with the intention of rubbing down and re-coating the main panels with a larger brush later, but I didn't get chance.  I also repainted the floor black, but you can't see that very well through the destination holes.

 

Next up, I thought I'd better make the saloon doors:

 

I decided to model the conductors' end door as open, maybe being opened by a passenger, so I only cut out 3 door sides (I could use both edges of the same door)

 

The closed door is slightly ajar.  This is because I measured the drawing without checking the model.  To get the relief in the door I cut out the panels and painted the perspex across the door to be the same colour as the door on the non window panel.  I've got four brass door handles to make, and I'm in two minds about the brass vent above the main window.

 

Plenty of details left to put on the ends!

 

The saloon floor!  The instruction book says to leave a hole 20mm longer than the truck wheelbase, and build a box over the hole to keep the saloon sealed from dust and oil etc.

 

The box goes up to the bottom of the seats, I need to trim a millimeter from the side of each before I can put the two halves together.  I'll make the frames/backs of the benches tomorrow and paint them the wooden colour.  I painted the floor and box black earlier.

 

I've been thinking about some passengers - are light weight people available in O?  In 40s clothes?  I'm not sure if I want to weigh the tram down with too many white metal figures.  I'm prepared to have a go at making my own people (he says)

 

Lots to do!

 

Simon

[Red Devil]

Think Slaters do 7mm sitting people in plastic, certainly do 4mm ones but sure I've seen 7mm ones in the past.