Jump to content
 

Eastwood Town - A tribute to Gordon's modelling.


gordon s
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Premium

Good grief, this is like catch up TV.... :)

 

Needless to say I had to go back to page 14. Waiting on back surgery that has now been and gone. I went from hardly walking 50 yards to playing golf three or four times a week. I have nothing but gratitude for our NHS.

 

It's strange reading someone's diary. Even stranger when it's your own... :O

 

Stand by for a large US loco running round the dining room table....

 

https://youtu.be/9FNsjAFGRnw

 

I'm not responsible for the awful wallpaper and the heated food cabinet. Thankfully the wallpaper has gone (with the wall) as have the dining table and chairs and the Hostess trolley went to the Charity shop.

 

A snapshot of surburban life in the 2010's.......

A strange exhaust beat, which I attribute to there being 3 engines. Did they all exhaust through the chimney? I know nothing about kettles from over the pond. Edited by Siberian Snooper
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Don't quote me as I don't know the answer, but from the model there is one chimney at the front and one at the rear on the tender....

 

attachicon.gifScreen Shot 2018-03-05 at 18.47.06.png

Very interesting, I had never heard of such a beast until now. I had always been under the impression that the 'big boys' were the top dog engines.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Very interesting, I had never heard of such a beast until now. I had always been under the impression that the 'big boys' were the top dog engines.

 

They were basically; the triplexes were massive failures. Three sets of paired cylinders consume all the oomph in no time at all and the/coal water consumption was unsustainable. Top speeds were necessarily low by any standard.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Whilst looking around for Triplex info I came across this.  I'd not heard of Train Mountain, but Jeez, that's some garden layout.... :)

 

 

http://trainmtn.org/tmrr/pages/tp_maps_2006.shtml

 

The website is crammed with stuff, so that's another few hours out of the window.

 

http://www.trainmountain.org

 

Our friends in the US don't do anything by half.....

 

http://trainmtn.org/tmrr/pages/tp_central_Detail.shtml

 

The 2016 plan shows 36 miles of track... :O

 

http://trainmtn.org/tmrr/Resources/maps/2016_3_10_Map_2.0.pdf

Edited by gordon s
  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

@ gordon s

 

Unfortunately I got way-laid yesterday evening so I'm not yet off page 14. I just wanted to say that I'm pleased that you have made a full recovery - especially as you're able to play golf!

 

I shall read on with great interest tonight.

 

Regards,

 

Philip

 

Edit: I think Jamespetts ought to be persuaded to read through too ............... ;)

Edited by Philou
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Alas Gordon's visits to the local tip with various past part incarnations of Eastwood Town are the stuff of legend on RMweb

 

How else is he going to get a Christmas card every year from the local timber merchant?

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Aaaaaaarrrrrghhhhh! Noooooooooooooo !!! Page 21 and Gordon is starting again ................ will I be able to read through to the end or shall I take The Stationmaster's advice and read from page 147 backwards?

Edited by Philou
Link to post
Share on other sites

Sold(i)ering on more like it! Ta-boom-tish! Trackwork looks so good too.

 

BTW, did you keep your all trackwork or did some go to the tip? If it did go, it does seem a pity after all the hard work (and no doubt a singed finger or two).

 

I shall now read on .........................

Link to post
Share on other sites

Plain trackwork basically went in the bin, but I saved all the turnouts.  Eventually I had something like 200 and didn't know what to do with them as each was custom designed for a specific location.  Selling a straight turnout with a 3' radius is one thing, but I thought no one would be interested in a curved turnout with 8' and 5' radius.  Surprisingly they were and they were all sold bar a few stragglers that went in the bin.

 

You'll probably come to that bit in a month or two... :)

 

Quite a few went off to RMwebbers, so the money paid for more rail and copper strip and off we went again....

 

Edit: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/116904-selling-hand-built-00-pointwork-any-ideas/

Edited by gordon s
  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Page 30 and all is well .......................... so far .....................

 

Edit: I'm glad that some of your hard-earned trackwork was able to be recycled. If it's not indiscreet - why bin the plain trackwork?

Edited by Philou
Link to post
Share on other sites

I have lifted pointwork on boards that were going to be scrapped by pouring loads of boiling water over them.  That softens the ballast and breaks down the PVA adhesive, but the board is pretty well scrap then.  Copperclad pointwork is pretty well bullet proof, which is one of the reasons I'm happy to stay with it, rather than go into chaired track.  Once scrubbed up and resprayed with track colour, it's 100%.

 

The plain track from SMP is fine to use, but a little fragile.  If it hasn't been ballasted, you can lift a sleeper and slide a wallpaper scraper under and it's quite easy to break the PVA/plastic sleep bond.

 

Once it's ballasted, it's pretty impossible to lift without the rail coming away from the chairs.  A whole load of effort with little chance of salvaging anything.  My personal feelings are I wouldn't want to use it again anyway.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I have had the same experience as Gordon with regards plain ballasted track, in my case C&L flexi. Impossible to salvage the bases but if the rails are removed first they can be reused as I am doing in new point-work. I'm also reusing chairs and timbers from lifted point-work, although I used vinyl glue not PVA.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Silly thing is it never occurred to me until yesterday to reuse the rail....

 

I've been waiting for some C & L rail for a while now and all the time I had loads of old lengths of SMP where I had used pins to lay the track.  For some reason I kept it thinking it could be used in areas out of sight or non critical, but never used it.  I know there's probably a fraction of a mm or so difference here and there between the rail, but it would have been fine.  After all it's what's on the plain track anyway.

 

Doh!

 

I can't answer your question Ian as I use SMP.  Maybe Jonathan can help.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Silly thing is it never occurred to me until yesterday to reuse the rail....

 

I've been waiting for some C & L rail for a while now and all the time I had loads of old lengths of SMP where I had used pins to lay the track.  For some reason I kept it thinking it could be used in areas out of sight or non critical, but never used it.  I know there's probably a fraction of a mm or so difference here and there between the rail, but it would have been fine.  After all it's what's on the plain track anyway.

 

Doh!

 

I can't answer your question Ian as I use SMP.  Maybe Jonathan can help.

 

 

One thing to be careful about is that when taking the track up not to curve the rail in the vertical, May not be an issue with either short lengths or those well stuck down on soldered sections

 

Perhaps by removing the rail first by pulling it through the chairs may be the best option to stop any curving

Link to post
Share on other sites

Silly thing is it never occurred to me until yesterday to reuse the rail....

 

I've been waiting for some C & L rail for a while now and all the time I had loads of old lengths of SMP where I had used pins to lay the track.  For some reason I kept it thinking it could be used in areas out of sight or non critical, but never used it.  I know there's probably a fraction of a mm or so difference here and there between the rail, but it would have been fine.  After all it's what's on the plain track anyway.

 

Doh!

 

I can't answer your question Ian as I use SMP.  Maybe Jonathan can help.

On a new topic I raised here today, I got this helpful tip for removing PVA glued ballasted track.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/131991-replacing-a-dead-point/?p=3076157

 

It makes more sense than the boiling water route as time and humidity will do the job. Come to think of it how does ballasted PVA'd track ever stay put in your damp country  :jester:

For larger areas old toweling or sheets would be more effective than using paper towel. I'd imagine that once the PVA softens even the most fragile track bed should lift up. Of course, baseboards of MDF (no no) or Chip will not survive either treatment. Another reason to back the use of ply.

 

Sure seems a better idea than beating the living daylights out of recycled flex as "Everard Junction" did on his Channel.

 

Fortunately a 2nd and much better tip eventually spared me lifting any track WRT addressing my broken point problem, 

 

Colin

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

 

Not seen Peco bullhead flexi so I cannot compare, but C&L is more expensive. However, it does come in either thick or thin sleepers. Thin sleepers matches hand-built chaired turnouts and takes less material to ballast.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

On a new topic I raised here today, I got this helpful tip for removing PVA glued ballasted track.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/131991-replacing-a-dead-point/?p=3076157

 

 

 

I use a similar technique for wiping off bird sh1t from my car's paintwork.  Only needs 5 minutes or so, unless it's dried on like concrete - in which case another 5 minutes or so usually does the trick.  Just thought I'd mention it... :jester:

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...