Eastwood Town - A tribute to Gordon's modelling.

[gordon s]

Very impressive, Martin. I do have a Windows machine although the bulk of my use is on my iMac desktop. No problem transferring pics across from one machine to the other, so happy to have a play with this utility.

 

I am conscious of the difficulty taking pics with a decent depth of field. That means a small aperture and slow shutter speeds. Metering the front of a black loco and then locking the focus as you pan round can often mean the lighter foreground is over exposed. I do play around with the stock editing software to redress the balance, but difficult to address selectively to part of a picture, so your utility could prove very useful.

Edited April 14, 2020 by gordon s

[martin_wynne]

Thanks Gordon,

 

I need a good image to use as a default in the program, I'm waiting for John to say ok to using one of his. Then I will get it finished and available for anyone who wants it. There's a help button on there, but so far I haven't written any notes for it -- does that remind you of any other program? .

 

It has several slider adjustments, so for example you could do this, darkening the foreground while simultaneously intensifying the colour. Or not.

 

 

 

Or remove some of the foreground colour:

 

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

Edited April 14, 2020 by martin_wynne

[aardvark]

12 hours ago, gordon s said:

I am conscious of the difficulty taking pics with a decent depth of field.

 

I have become aware that some/many "modern" not-that-expensive digital cameras have a feature called post-focus, which AFAIK automatically increments the focus and performs focus stacking for you.

 

Edit: an example here: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/120848-little-muddle/page/101/&tab=comments#comment-3239460

Edited April 15, 2020 by aardvark

[gordon s]

Today saw one of those jobs that I've been putting off for ages. Right at the back end of ET station are two large turnouts and occasionally my WD or Q1 seen to prefer to ride along the sleepers than the rails so kindly provided by the management. Probably only one in ten circuits, but it bugs me every time it happens. The choices of getting to that part of the layout aren't great. Stand on a 3" x 3" length of wood propped between the balustrades either side of the incoming stairs or pulling out all the boxes, clambering underneath and then trying to raise yourself into the wedge shaped space in the corner.

 

First option risks certain broken bones in case of a fall. Second option risks banging head several times and the risk of having got into the said aperture, not being able to get out. Decided the second option was preferable and after playing around with gauges and a vernier, a few minutes soldering solved the problem. One of the turnouts was slightly over gauge at the toe end, so the blade to adjacent rail was over 15.25mm and then further up the turnout it was slightly under gauge. Neither are good to have, but both are now resolved and all is well again.

 

Having got in there, I thought I'd shoot a couple of videos as photography shows up all the faults the eyes miss, so I now have a list of adjustments that must be done before I really get stuck into scenic work.

 

 

 

Three of the things on my list are to do with the station buildings. I always realised that when I bought them the inside faces had been left plain. I did speak to Alan a while back about adding detail to the inside faces and of course Alan was only too pleased to undertake the task, even though it was only a few hours work for him. Sadly it wasn't to be, but I will still explore having the work done.

 

The second is widening the overbridge by 30mm as it's not quite wide enough for this platform arrangement.

 

After all these years the only building that has shown some warping to the roof is the island platform building on the right. It means building a new roof, so not too arduous for a relative beginner, but as always. I'm conscious of the heritage of these buildings and would have to tread very carefully.

 

Platform edges need adjusting at the ends as in some cases the overhang on Mk1 coaches clobbers the platform corner. Fairly easy to resolve by running a jigsaw between the cork surface and the plastic edging for a few inches and then gluing it back together. The thickness of the saw blade should be sufficient to generate a revised curve that will clear the overhanging coach on the inside of the bend.

 

If anyone has a better idea how to do it, please tell..... 

 

Some wiring still to do, some final testing on the track and pointwork, laying the 'board gap tracks' properly and then painting and ballasting. Still have the gradients to do and a bridge to build over the four main lines to access the traverser and shed area. Probably only then can I start on the scenic stuff, so that could still be a year or two away.....

 

Edit: ......and that's without thinking about signalling or God forbid, point rodding.....

 

Rome wasn't built in a day after all...

Edited April 16, 2020 by gordon s
..forgot to add signalling

[Buhar]

6 hours ago, gordon s said:

Rome wasn't built in a day after all...

'ere guv! You can't chuck that half finished temple to Mithras in that skip, it goes in the deity one down the end. And I know it was you what put those Ionic columns in with the Doric ones.

 

Alan 

[martin_wynne]

On 14/04/2020 at 22:11, gordon s said:

I do have a Windows machine although the bulk of my use is on my iMac desktop. No problem transferring pics across from one machine to the other, so happy to have a play with this utility.

 

Hi Gordon,

 

It's now available as a download, and I have made a bit of video showing how to use it:

 

 https://flashbackconnect.com/Default.aspx?id=aXCjica0yZIHqSoVfgEC5A2

 

The download is a link at the bottom of this post:

 

 http://85a.co.uk/forum/view_topic.php?id=3638&forum_id=5

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

[gordon s]

Morning all....

 

Ever since those transpotting days of my youth, I've had a soft spot for B1's, especially those with the names of exotic animals from the African continent. I hope that wasn't because Edward Thomson was a big game hunter.....

 

I have several of these and now have both Gazelle and Kudu up and running on DCC. Sadly Kudu was beyond repair, so I went for a Comet chassis, but I see these as a real challenge. I was therefore pleasantly surprised to find another one deep down in my storage boxes. Must have been from my very early stock acquisition days when I knew no better.

 

 

Wildebeeste, no less. Looking forward to adding to my zoological collection, I took a look inside. The body and tender were OK and all looked fine at first glance. 

 

 

Off with the body and the keeper plate and then it literally fell apart in my hands. The motor works but the plastic axles were in two pieces and worst was yet to come. The valve gear fell apart and then I noticed the driving wheels....

 

I'm not sure the pudding shape would help with running qualities.

 

 

I'd read about this issue before, but never seen it first hand. Sadly it may be totally beyond repair. I have a box of split chassis bits, so may be able to rescue it, but it looks doubtful right now. It may well be joining its brother with a Comet chassis. Nothing against it and it may be better in the long run, but I just enjoy mending things....

 

 

It could be a long day...

Edited April 19, 2020 by gordon s

[Oldddudders]

Despite, as I have to say from time to time on Great Northern's thread, being a Southern sort of cove, B1s have always had some sort of appeal. The blend of relative modernity with a heritage cab design just sets them apart from many other 4-6-0s. I saw a few, the best memory being 61028 Umseke passing Neasden on a down express. I hope your trio thrive. 

[jukebox]

55 minutes ago, gordon s said:

I was therefore pleasantly surprised to find another one deep down in my storage boxes. Must have been from my very early stock acquisition days when I knew no better.

 

You're not an island in this regard.  I am embarrassed when I dig down and find a loco I never remember acquiring. But like you, it's "been awhile".  If we ever get back to the days where there are bargains out there, Gordon, keep an eye out for a Hornby B1 - the sample I have is a beautiful runner.  I seem to recall mine was around the £85 mark during a box shifter clearance a couple of years back - the RRP these days is almost double that....

 

Cheers

 

Scott

[gordon s]

Thanks Scott. I did buy one at the time. A Harold Bibby from memory. I agree, a lovely runner, but where’s the fun in that?...

 

Plonk it on the track and it runs. How much more fun is rescuing something from the bin.
 

It’s almost there, right now.  Could be last rites any time soon....

 

The only saviour might be Bachmann. I’m sure I read they no longer supply wheels, but do have the nylon axles.

 

Could be worth a call on Monday.

 

Edit: Nope, Sir Harold Mitchell........

Edited April 19, 2020 by gordon s
Wrong name.....

[St Enodoc]

24 minutes ago, gordon s said:

The only saviour might be Bachmann. I’m sure I read they no longer supply wheels, but do have the nylon axles.

Peter's Spares?

[gordon s]

Just had a look and they do stock them, but showing out of stock right now. They don’t seem to have such a wide range of spares any more. There was another outfit who also stocked a wide range of spares, but blowed if I can recall who they were.

 

Bachmann direct are pretty good. I’m hoping to get a new board for my Cravens trailer car....don’t ask.....

 

Amazingly they had one in stock, so hoping it will be here tomorrow.

[Rowsley17D]

Hi Gordon, the Comet chassis go together very well, little in the way of fettling. 

[gordon s]

Here is the news......Despite hours of hard combat, todays result was Wildebeeste 1, frustrated of Berkshire 0......

 

Sadly the whole thing was just too far gone, so a few bits will be kept as spares, the rest can go in the bin.

 

Thanks Jonathan, that is my Comet chassis on Kudu and I agree they go together well. I keep looking at it and I have this thing in my head that says it sits too high, but maybe it’s just the camera angle.

 

I’ll put the body and tender away for another day as I’m not sure I will be able to get the chassis, gearbox and wheels whilst this is going on. In any case, I don’t want to see it again for a while.

 

Split chassis don’t normally phase me as I have several running and running well on ET. I love my J39 as this pulls anything I can throw at it, but this one had me beat.......

 

That’s a few hours I won’t get back...

 

 

[mullie]

9 minutes ago, gordon s said:

Here is the news......Despite hours of hard combat, todays result was Wildebeeste 1, frustrated of Berkshire 0......

 

Sadly the whole thing was just too far gone, so a few bits will be kept as spares, the rest can go in the bin.

 

Thanks Jonathan, that is my Comet chassis on Kudu and I agree they go together well. I keep looking at it and I have this thing in my head that says it sits too high, but maybe it’s just the camera angle.

 

I’ll put the body and tender away for another day as I’m not sure I will be able to get the chassis, gearbox and wheels whilst this is going on. In any case, I don’t want to see it again for a while.

 

Split chassis don’t normally phase me as I have several running and running well on ET. I love my J39 as this pulls anything I can throw at it, but this one had me beat.......

 

That’s a few hours I won’t get back...

 

 

Andrew at Wizard Models may have everything you need. I have built two Comet chassis now and prefer High Level gear boxes to the Comet ones. I am a satisfied customer of Wizard having used their services for over twenty years.

 

Martyn

Edited April 19, 2020 by mullie

[gordon s]

Spoke to Bachmann this morning and as suspected wheels are no longer available. They do have the the nylon inserts, but late yesterday I tried a different approach and superglued the wheels and inserts together using a back to back gauge. I now have a set of wheels that run perfectly true, but even those won’t save the day.

 

Looking closely at the chassis halves shows the bearing surfaces have all but disappeared in several places. I say bearing surfaces, but that’s really stretching the definition. I wonder if they were plated at some time, as you can see a mix of copper/brass and the basic alloy material.

 

Either way the wheels don’t rotate freely in the chassis halves. It’s at time like this I wish I hadn’t sold my Proxxon lathe as this is crying out for a solution. I’m sure you could mill out a fraction of the wheel recesses in the chassis and attach some full top hat bearings in each half. They could be set up in a chassis jig to ensure they are all square and run true. Turn up some axles from an insulating material and then blank off all the coupling rods and redrill to suit.

 

I’m up for the challenge, but no longer have the necessary tooling.

 

Option 2 is a Comet chassis, a set of Markits wheels, a High Level gearbox and a Mashima motor. Did a quick tot up and that came in at circa £200.

 

Option 3 was trawl the net and see what’s available. Blow me Kernow had a Hornby one in stock that just needs the crest changed to a late one. £99.99.....

 

You can guess which option I took......for now...

 

To be continued in a year or two...

 

 

[Denbridge]

18 hours ago, gordon s said:

Here is the news......Despite hours of hard combat, todays result was Wildebeeste 1, frustrated of Berkshire 0......

 

Sadly the whole thing was just too far gone, so a few bits will be kept as spares, the rest can go in the bin.

 

Thanks Jonathan, that is my Comet chassis on Kudu and I agree they go together well. I keep looking at it and I have this thing in my head that says it sits too high, but maybe it’s just the camera angle.

 

I’ll put the body and tender away for another day as I’m not sure I will be able to get the chassis, gearbox and wheels whilst this is going on. In any case, I don’t want to see it again for a while.

 

Split chassis don’t normally phase me as I have several running and running well on ET. I love my J39 as this pulls anything I can throw at it, but this one had me beat.......

 

That’s a few hours I won’t get back...

 

 

Andrew at Wizard seems to be able to maintain deliveries with little problem. He's a lifeline for me at this time.

[Enterprisingwestern]

 

If you can't make the blighter into a going concern, how about one of the stationary boilers jobbies parked in the carriage sidings?

 

Mike.

[hayfield]

2 hours ago, gordon s said:

Spoke to Bachmann this morning and as suspected wheels are no longer available. They do have the the nylon inserts, but late yesterday I tried a different approach and superglued the wheels and inserts together using a back to back gauge. I now have a set of wheels that run perfectly true, but even those won’t save the day.

 

Looking closely at the chassis halves shows the bearing surfaces have all but disappeared in several places. I say bearing surfaces, but that’s really stretching the definition. I wonder if they were plated at some time, as you can see a mix of copper/brass and the basic alloy material.

 

Either way the wheels don’t rotate freely in the chassis halves. It’s at time like this I wish I hadn’t sold my Proxxon lathe as this is crying out for a solution. I’m sure you could mill out a fraction of the wheel recesses in the chassis and attach some full top hat bearings in each half. They could be set up in a chassis jig to ensure they are all square and run true. Turn up some axles from an insulating material and then blank off all the coupling rods and redrill to suit.

 

I’m up for the challenge, but no longer have the necessary tooling.

 

Option 2 is a Comet chassis, a set of Markits wheels, a High Level gearbox and a Mashima motor. Did a quick tot up and that came in at circa £200.

 

Option 3 was trawl the net and see what’s available. Blow me Kernow had a Hornby one in stock that just needs the crest changed to a late one. £99.99.....

 

You can guess which option I took......for now...

 

To be continued in a year or two...

 

 

Gordon

 

If you are happy to wait there are a couple of options

 

1/   Look for a second hand loco with a badly painted or damaged body. May be a chassis might come on the market

 

2/   Build up a stock of spare parts bought cheaply over time, just by keeping your eyes open. Certainly  the chassis may need buying new, most of the other parts can be sourced s/h at reasonable prices

 

Recently I bought a Comet SR Schools chassis built to 00 gauge , Romford wheels, mashima motor and a 2 stage Comet gearbox cost me £28 inc postage. I just need to take it apart, buy new EM gauge spacers and axles and then reassemble, the cost new certainly much nearer to £100 than £200. However it will cost me under £40 once I buy the replacement parts  

[gordon s]

So here’s a question for you. I pulled out another Bachmann B1,  61247 Lord Burghley, but this one had been modified by myself some years ago. Plonked it on the track and away it went, smoothly and without wheelspin. Totally different to the other one, so my faith has been restored.

 

Thought I’d cut out the coal load, add a crew and fallplate and maybe make a start on the weathering. Once the coal was out, leaving a large square opening, I was surprised to see a rectangular opening in the top right of the tender backplate which I assume is the tunnel for housing fire irons etc. Hadn’t noticed it before....

 

Looked through Yeadons and every pic of a B1 shows a fully loaded tender or no view of the top at all. Any idea what the tunnel looked like?

 

Was it just a rectangular box section that extended back into the tender? If so, how far? Was coal then tipped over the top so it was hidden from view until the coal load reduced?
 

I’m quite keen to have a half filled tender, so wondered if this tunnel would show.

 

Of course I could just fill the bloody thing and have done with it.....

Edited April 20, 2020 by gordon s

[Theakerr]

Like you I have a fondness for B1's and have about 8 on my layout.  All were the original split chassis types and most of them have deteriorated.  Also, I had detailed and weathered them all.  My solution was to look for cheap new Bachmann Chassis and replace the FUBARed ones with new chassis thus preserving the weathering etc and can be had for a lot less than a Comet B1.   Essentially they are a drop in fit although all of them have piston rod guides that are slanted way down and need correcting.  They also require extra weight because they are significantly lighter than the old ones and finally I have added a tender pick-up because the pick up doesn't seem to be as good as the old ones (before they gave up the ghost).  The new chassis are excellent runners.  Re the fire iron, based on the odd photo I could find I believe there was a fire iron holder and have made one assuming that the square hole in the tender wall is the opening.  In most cases it is a faux hole going back about 10mm with a cut off fire iron sticking out. 

[31A]

This shows how the fire iron tunnel is modelled on the Hornby B1 tender, if it helps.  Two tenders, with the rear coal plates in different positions.

 

[gordon s]

Many thanks for that pic. A Hornby B1 is the last place I would have looked as every RTR loco generally has a full coal load. I have one Hornby model already and second arriving this week. If mine are the same, I should be able to get all the measurements etc from the Hornby model.

 

That’s great to know the new Bachmann chassis will fit the old body shell. Can you just buy a chassis from Bachmann or are you suggesting just trawl eBay etc for second hand locos?

 

Thanks guys, some really useful info.

 

Spent the evening wrestling with a Bachmann Std 4 2-6-0. What a pig to get the body off. The instructions simply say remove two screws.........Yeah......

 

What they don’t say is that all the fine plastic pipes that run down from the boiler are fitted afterwards and glued both ends, so you can’t get the body off without breaking the joint at one end. I chose the footplate end and carefully slid a scalpel blade under the pipes where they were glued to the footplate. The chassis then comes out with all the pipes attached. Slide a small Zimo into the smoke box cavity and hook up the wires, job done.....

 

I wonder how many loco’s have been broken out of sheer frustration?
 

Loads, I suspect......

 

Another vote for the Hornby design where they have the decoder in the tender. Nothing gets broken and you get tender pick ups as well.

Stupid moment today? Finding two Class 22’s which I thought ran out of KX. Bit of a cock up as the ones out of KX were 21’s......

 

22’s were on the Western Region. Well, they looked like the ones I saw as a kid....

[31A]

Those pictures show the Hornby coal loads in place in the tenders (I've since covered them with real coal) but you can lever the coal loads out if you want to see what the rest of the coal space looks like.  I've never had much luck with trying to model the inside of the tender on the Bachmann model though, as the plastic is so thick.

 

[St Enodoc]

4 hours ago, gordon s said:

Finding two Class 22’s which I thought ran out of KX. Bit of a cock up as the ones out of KX were 21’s......

 

22’s were on the Western Region. Well, they looked like the ones I saw as a kid....

Flog 'em and use the dosh to buy the B1 chassis and wheels...