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gordon s

Eastwood Town....Mind the gap....

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Happy  to say it did....:drink_mini:

 

Not a clue how to do things other than open Templot, but I’ll muddle through.

 

Seems totally strange after years of working with Apple OS. I certainly wouldn’t go back and have to learn it all again.....;)

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16 hours ago, Barry O said:

Gordon the team that rebuilt the loft, upstairs bathroom and kitchen gave some tubes of "sticks like sh!t" and guess wha.it does!!

Bazt

What was the brand, Baz?

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3 hours ago, gordon s said:

I like the fact that the item is actually labelled 'sticks like sh*t' but the link above spells it out in full! :O

 

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1 hour ago, Ramblin Rich said:

I like the fact that the item is actually labelled 'sticks like sh*t' but the link above spells it out in full! :O

 

Does it come complete with blanket or do you have to provide your own?

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5 hours ago, gordon s said:

 

You thought he was he was joking...

 

I did!

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:offtopic: 

 

A friend in Australia told me that they have an "easy start" product for cars - an aerosol full of ether or similar - which you spray into the air intake, which is called "Start you B*stard"

 

Al.

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The tubes I have are not from wvilatick. The "glue" is pink and you need to go on a course to use it. Goggles, face mask and gloves must be worn.. upnest! But it does what it says on the tube!

Baz

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I suspect none Aussies may not 'get' St Enodocs comment re the blanket.  As an ex Pom, my Aussie wife had to explain that the full saying is: 'sticks like to a blanket'.

We have such lovely colloquial language!!

 

As an aside: it is Eastwood Town which has inspired me to build OOSF turnouts for the first time in Queensland following Gordon's order which seemed logical to me. They have gone reasonably well: I replaced the first 2 that I built but the rest seem to be OK after minor tweaking: thank you soldered construction. I had tried building a few using C&L components but could not get on with them possibly because I could not build them in situ. I have lots of spare C&L timbers as living in Australia you have to buy in bulk to avoid having to wait and wait for further supplies from across the world and then I have not used them!

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Chuffed to read that my ramblings and pics inspired anyone to build some 00SF turnouts, as I went down a similar route when Martin W first introduced me to SF standards. Still can't get my head round whatever we write here is being read 1000's of miles away.....

 

Tempted to make an offer for your sleeper strips as I'm just about to order some more, but suspect freight etc from Australia wouldn't make sense. I'm sure there's plenty of guys in Oz who be in touch.....

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11 hours ago, Barry O said:

The tubes I have are not from wvilatick. The "glue" is pink and you need to go on a course to use it. Goggles, face mask and gloves must be worn.. upnest! But it does what it says on the tube!

Baz

 

Still trying to decipher what you've written Baz, after spellcheck has kicked in. I'm guessing 'wvilatick' is Evo Stick and 'upnest' is honest....or maybe it's all in code.

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Currently actually in the UK. Come to see my 90 yo Mum for Xmas BUT carefully organised to have been able to go to the Warley exhibition yesterday. Just bought 20 metres of code 75 BH from C&L for the 10 turnouts needed for the shed area of my embryonic layout. Now waiting for the Heljan turntable to be back in stock so that my wife can buy it for Xmas!

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Glad to hear they won't go to waste. Enjoy your trip in the UK. No doubt, it's a bit colder here.....:D

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Enjoying ?? the cool damp weather rather than 34oC heat and bush fires. The C&L timbers were the plastic ones so of no use to me. I have been using the DCC Concepts pre cut and tinned timbers which solder really easily. Whilst in theory they only cover A and B turnouts, in practice there are always a few spare which can be trimmed down for the gaps when building Cs.

 

A good few posts back you talked about having to 'ease' some clearances for good running with longer wheelbase locos: Can you explain where you found the need. I have had to tweak a few and have been working a bit in the dark. I think generally it has been to ease the stock rail away from the check rail. Has that been your experience?
If I am going to have to do that, I am figuring that if I know WHERE, it is easier to do during construction rather than waiting until it is in situ. Wiring it up on the bench to run a 9F through is a bit complicated so to date I have not been able to find the tight spots until laid in situ. Pushing a 2-6-2 chassis through before installation did not find all the tight areas.

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The tight spots are invariably on the curved section of the turnout. In some cases I found that the 1mm gap between between the stock rail and the check rail did not allow a long wheelbase chassis with little side play on the drivers to move cleanly through without binding. Nearly all the turnouts I build are C10's, so they have quite long check rails. You should not open the wing rail gap or change the critical measurement of the check gauge at 15.2mm. 

 

The only change I make is to widen the gap between the curved check rail and the outer stock rail and here I may increase the 1mm gap by moving the curved stock rail out slightly.

 

Hope that helps.

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1 hour ago, gordon s said:

You should not open the wing rail gap or change the critical measurement of the check gauge at 15.2mm

 

The only change I make is to widen the gap between the curved check rail and the outer stock rail and here I may increase the 1mm gap by moving the curved stock rail out slightly.

 

That's the correct solution. It is also what the prototype does on sharp curves.

 

It is also the reason why the 4-slot roller gauges provided by the trade are utterly useless. If you have any of them, fill in the inner slots with epoxy so that you don't accidentally use them.

 

To set the flangeway gaps at the V-crossing (frog), use a piece of metal shim of the required thickness. For 00-SF that is 1.0mm. At a pinch a piece of 40thou plastic card could be used. For traditional 16.5mm 00-BF it is 1.3mm. Spark plug feeler gauges can also be used.

 

To set the check rails, use a 2-slot 15.2mm check gauge. This is the same dimension for 00-SF, 00-BF, DOGA-Intermediate, and all other modern 00 gauges (apart from DOGA-Fine), so worth getting a pair of them whichever 00 gauge standard you use. C&L sell them (listed under 00-SF).

 

00-SF isn't really suitable for very sharply curved turnouts, it is probably better to build them as 16.5mm 00-BF (using the same 15.2mm check gauge). 00-SF and 00-BF pointwork can be mixed on the same layout.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

Edited by martin_wynne
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Thanks: I thought easing the stock rail out was the correct solution and what I had been doing. Have never gone anywhere near the common crossing and fully understand the 15.2mm dimension as being critical. I also have been building largely C10 so the need should not be very great. I will have largely Bs (? 6s, not 100% sure away from home and my painfully sorted Templot design) in the shed layout so probably will need to be a bit more generous there.

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Not sure who manufactures or defines "modern" 00 gauge.  Or how far back is "old".  Checking  the current DOGA website, it states CK is 15.25/15-35.

and BB is 14.35/14.45. 

 

Andy

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3 hours ago, Andy Reichert said:

Not sure who manufactures or defines "modern" 00 gauge.  Or how far back is "old".  Checking  the current DOGA website, it states CK is 15.25/15-35.

and BB is 14.35/14.45.

 

Sigh. I do my level best to provide good information which will enable modellers to get the best results with 00 gauge models. When I first released Templot 20+ years ago I resurrected the dormant "EM minus 2" standard which I had used in the 1970s and gave it the name 00-SF.

 

The results in this topic on Gordon's layout are clear to see. Many other modellers have now adopted the 00-SF standard and have had similar good results.

 

But always, always, someone comes along to muddy the waters. It is just NOT FAIR on beginners. I can't speak for DOGA, the 00-SF standards are at: http://4-sf.uk/

 

If you think the DOGA standard is preferable, start a new topic about it. Shout about it from the rooftops. Argue the pros and cons. But don't wait until I have posted some information and then immediately throw a spanner into it to confuse anyone trying to follow it.

 

Modellers can choose which standards to follow by observing the results. Here is a video showing a layout using the 00-SF standard and some comments about it by the owner:

 

 

 

Martin.

Edited by martin_wynne
typo
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Not what I was asking about, but definitely a beautiful finished layout overall.  I did notice some bumpy effects specifically on the common crossings that I would think need some investigation.  See the very strange side jerk movement at 1.11, 7.30 and and the minor but noticeable wagon rocking/bumping at 2.41, 7.57 for examples.

 

My problem is that I'm making some B-B wheel setting/checking gauges for HO-SF and it sounds like they will not now be correct for 00, even though 00 was supposed to be designed to run properly on HO track.

 

Andy

 

 

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2 hours ago, Andy Reichert said:

My problem is that I'm making some B-B wheel setting/checking gauges for HO-SF and it sounds like they will not now be correct for 00, even though 00 was supposed to be designed to run properly on HO track.

 

Hi Andy,

 

For 00 gauge (except DOGA-Fine):

 

a. RTR wheels are typically RP25/110 profile with flanges 0.8mm thick -- set the back-to-back to 14.4mm.

b. Romford/Markits wheels have flanges 0.7mm thick -- set the back-to-back to 14.5mm. Using Romford axles you don't have much choice about this.

c. Kit wheels such as Alan Gibson / EMGS / Ultrascale have flanges typically 0.6mm thick -- set the back-to-back to 14.6mm.

 

(For DOGA-Fine add 0.3mm to the above back-to-backs. This means modifying RTR wheels.)

 

For optimum running, when the flange is running against the rail head on one side, the back of the opposite wheel should just kiss the check rail. With the above flange thicknesses and back-to-backs, that is achieved with the check gauge at 15.2mm (for DOGA-Fine 15.5mm).

 

Those back-to-backs are the maximum.

 

For 00-SF the minimum (all wheels) is 14.3mm.

For 00-BF the minimum (all wheels) is 14.0mm.

 

(For DOGA-Fine the minimum (all wheels) is 14.6mm. This means modifying RTR wheels.)

 

It might be better to move this to a separate topic -- this is Gordon's layout topic.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

Edited by martin_wynne
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Is it Groundhog Day?....^_^

 

Just woken up to see the start of what could be endless discussion on fractions of a mm. No problem at all with that, other than as Martin suggests, ET is not the place.

 

Andy, I would prefer you start another thread on the pro’s and con’s of H0-SF as I’m more than happy with the running quality of my own track. Any comments I have made regards gauge widening on minimum side play, long wheelbase loco’s is not a reflection on the standard, but more likely to be poor workmanship on my part or a loco which has insufficient side play for the radius involved.

 

An early start for me as another Winter League game with a must win result beckons......
 

 

Edited by gordon s
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Gordon.

podgy fingers..phone screen keyboards plus spulchecker ...yes it is Evilstick! Many apologies..

Baz

 

 

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