ejstubbs Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 Also described in a bit more detail in the Wiki page on capacitor plague. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium kevinlms Posted June 12, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 12, 2017 Also described in a bit more detail in the Wiki page on capacitor plague. The signs are bulging capacitors, or them leaking their guts out. A quick visual look should determine if so. There is usually a cross in the end and the end should be flat. I've replaced such capacitors and the equipment then worked perfectly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky Dicky Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 Blown capacitors are the most likely cause of a CDU failure and should be a fairly easy repair to make. If replacing capacitors make sure you exceed the required voltage rating with the replacements, I would go with 35v rated capacitors for a 12v CDU. Electrolytic capacitors are notoriously inaccurate 20% is not unusual. I have only used the probe and stud method for point control and when I see the sparking it always concerns me how people manage with some of the flimsy push switches you see on control panels. It certainly does not surprise me that people have to keep replacing them. Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium kevinlms Posted June 13, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 13, 2017 Blown capacitors are the most likely cause of a CDU failure and should be a fairly easy repair to make. If replacing capacitors make sure you exceed the required voltage rating with the replacements, I would go with 35v rated capacitors for a 12v CDU. Electrolytic capacitors are notoriously inaccurate 20% is not unusual. I have only used the probe and stud method for point control and when I see the sparking it always concerns me how people manage with some of the flimsy push switches you see on control panels. It certainly does not surprise me that people have to keep replacing them. Richard Arcing only occurs if you remove the probe, before the capacitor has fully discharged. But I agree about flimsy switches, all to common for the cheapies. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crosland Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 Contained within this item http://www.epanorama.net/newepa/2010/03/23/electrolytic-capacitor-failures/ is a mention of this - according to them it was in 1999,( but still relevant ten years later) I suffered from that on a PC motherboard and maybe a TV digibox. These items failed quite quickly. The general issue with electrolytics is that the dielectric can dry out, but this takes years, not 18 - 24 months. There are very few failure mechanisms due to storage (under normal, human-friendly environmental conditions) for such short periods. Electronic equipment failures generally follow the bathtub curve https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bathtub_curve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cravensdmufan Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 Blown capacitors are the most likely cause of a CDU failure and should be a fairly easy repair to make. If replacing capacitors make sure you exceed the required voltage rating with the replacements, I would go with 35v rated capacitors for a 12v CDU. Electrolytic capacitors are notoriously inaccurate 20% is not unusual. I have only used the probe and stud method for point control and when I see the sparking it always concerns me how people manage with some of the flimsy push switches you see on control panels. It certainly does not surprise me that people have to keep replacing them. Richard Very interesting post Richard. My control panel is indeed built with Squires 45p push to make switches! And I do push them fast when setting a route. Maybe that is why my CDU failed after only 4 years. I will see how this new one lasts, Maybe a redesigned panel should be promoted up the prority scale on my "to do" list! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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