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craigwelsh

P4 - Finney 28xx Currently..

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Following on from my blog posts http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/blog/64/entry-1109-mineral-evolution/ i've decided to change this back to a thread to try and get some more feedback going.

 

I've had a go at painting the nearly finished 8-plank i'd been testing the brake lever etch on. Not 100% convinced yet but I think its getting there and portraying newer wood than the 7-plank I did before. I've left the AJ couplings off it until I get a correct power supply to work with the magnets for them.

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Nice work there. I've looked at a few of your builds and progress with the etches and wonder if we'll be seeing them in the flesh anywhere soon? Liking the finescale workmanship and though a newby I would like to look closer at work like this to set a standard to aim at.

Cheers for sharing

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I was following the blog, but you're welcome to some feedback on here - the wood is magnificent. I wish I could get the knack you (and David Bigcheeseplant) have of capturing the look of it.

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VERY tasty Craig B)

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They look superb Craig........exquisite work in all respects! :icon_clap:

 

I saw you displaying your etches at Scaleforum and wish I had collared you for a chat!

 

Regards,

 

Andy.

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Not 100% convinced yet but I think its getting there and portraying newer wood than the 7-plank I did before

I think you're being far too modest, Craig - you've achieved a standard there that is already much higher than the majority of us could hope to reach! They look extremely nice indeed.

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They really do look the part- beautifully done. Painting isn't one of my strongpoints, and the bare wood finish is one that I've yet to feel brave enough to tackle, but after seeing those I might just have a go on one of my unbuilt kit mountain....

 

 

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Hi Craig, my apologies if you have already done this elsewhere but would you mind describing how you got such a realistic finish on those planks? - or point me to where you have described it?

 

Thanks.

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Very nice Craig, though I fancy the interior of a wagon in use would be darker than that.

 

How's the brake lever etches coming on?

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Wood finish is looking goodsmile.gif . I think the 8-plank looks better than the 7-plank. If I was being (constructively) hyper-critical, I would say that the 7-plank (and maybe the interior of the 8-plank) is too "brown" and should be more "grey". I think unpainted wood is the most diffcult "livery" to get right: I've been struggling with it myself, and don't think I've quite got it yet. I'd be more than pleased with these, but there's always scope for improvementwink.gif

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Wood finish is looking goodhttps://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/public/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif . I think the 8-plank looks better than the 7-plank.

Glad you said that as it means my painting has improved in the year as well as the underpinnings!

 

Paints used on the wood were from Games Workshop after the model was undercoated with Chaos Black spray.

Bleached Bone

Desert Yellow

Graveyard Earth

Codex Grey

Sunburst Yellow

 

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Rust is painted onto the metal bits after they have been repainted black.

Charadon Granite

Calthan Brown

Any combination of those two stippled on top of the black gives a good effect for rust.

 

The inside need another couple of washes now the rust has dried which will darken it. I have trouble mixing grey into the wood as it tends to just turn grey! This wagon is supposed to be P63984 on p146 of 4mm Coal Wagon, there is a slight problem though as i've put effort onto the inside but then the picture shows no indication of bottom doors!

 

Next couple of wagons will be an attempt at weathered grey painted ones which is even harder as you can see the grain through the paint where its faded.

 

How's the brake lever etches coming on?

Hows the build of the other bit getting on :P. No, I am behind where I wanted to be with these as i've been working til 8 quite a few nights (it was gone midnight when Pixie got a preview of this wagon to see!) as well as spending more time building what I had.

 

Levers have been worked on this week after a going over with a digital callipers. If you look at the inside view the guard still sticks out too much as well as the top layer extending too far down past the stay. Another test needed to get that spot on.

 

Here are some snaps of the Morton clutch fitted levers though.

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One thing I do need to sort is resin inserts to make the 3-hole wheels look a bit better! Can't fault Kean Maygib though on consistency, 100 axles and only one failure and even that could be fixed on a lathe. B2b is always correct out of the pack too, just need to find another batch now though. Pity they don't do spoked although the Exactoscale ones are a bit more sturdy than that companies 3-hole.

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Like you, I have been doing other things, but they are very high on my todo list!

 

I am impressed, that Morton clutch looks like it could work!

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Very nicely done. I had to look at the close up shots a couple of times and remind myself just how small this actually is.

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Kudos to Fox Transfers, put an order in on Tuesday night and they arrived with the post in work this morning. The fact they cost more than a Bachmann 9F cost me is another matter entirely!

 

So using my reference and realising I over estimated the black panels slightly i've now done the transfers on the model.

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My technique is to:

- prepare the area with Klear and let it dry.

- apply Micro Set where the transfer is being placed and then slide the transfer onto this area and off the backing using my craft knife.

- once transfer is aligned use a bit of cotton wool or tissue paper to press it down carefully.

- apply some more Micro Set and let it dry.

- apply Micro Sol and leave to soften the transfer (more important if it overlaps detail really but its surprising that it can make a difference on something you think is flat.

- when the Sol is dry I protect the area with a coat of Klear to weather the transfers down.

 

I'll leave it overnight before I take the sheen off..

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Really must get on with the etch of the builders plates and label clip to fit to these. I've modified the levers a couple of times now and am going to see which one comes out right! The second picture shows how it sticks out from the body a bit much and I want to fix this.

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They are the mutts nadgers Craig...

Find you use of Kleer and Micro Set/Sol interesting ;)

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They are the mutts nadgers Craig...

Find you use of Kleer and Micro Set/Sol interesting https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/emoticons/default_wink3.gif

Well it seems to work ok as they are still fine this morning. I did use varnish in stead of Klear which was ok with Fox but Modelmaster transfers tended to silver. I've ditched those anyway though as the carrier film was far too thick and the fonts were off. I understand Klear is quite similar to one of the two products but I can't remember which.

 

Wish i'd got that 1 a bit lower next to the 4 in 14, that tare will need a hyphen painting in tonight.

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Excellent work Craig, very effective painting! I've noticed lots of references to Chaos Black before. What's different about this from a normal matt black spray (e.g. Halfords type rattle can)?

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Further wagon on the go, this one with the Bachmann trainset body from one of the wagons Bachmann were selling at the members day for 50p. The old underframe is now in a big bag to flog! Incidently this livery and number is hand painted in 'The 4mm Coal Wagon' by John Hayes but the branding on the door is a plank higher on his. Not sure if there is a prototype picture they have both followed.

 

This wagon is having hinged AJ's fitted but as they screw on I can get on and paint it then refit the couplings afterwards. I need to buy a 2amp tranformer first though to sort out the electromagnets.

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Excellent work Craig, very effective painting! I've noticed lots of references to Chaos Black before. What's different about this from a normal matt black spray (e.g. Halfords type rattle can)?

Well Chaos Black is just the name Games Workshop give to their normal matt black. Whether its much different/better than Halfords im not sure, no doubt its a little more expensive! Games Workshop do sell kits in plastic, white metal, resin and brass though which are designed so that kids can finish them to a decent standard. I always find their sprays give coverage though so am sticking with them.

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Very impressive work Craig. Watching your wagons develop is at least as rewarding as watching an entire layout buing built.

 

Games Workshop do sell kits in plastic, white metal, resin and brass though which are designed so that kids can finish them to a decent standard.

 

So the Games Workshop paints works well for all these materials? I've been using the Vallejo range myself, but am curious whether Games Workshop might be better - do you happen to have experience with both ranges?

 

 

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Very impressive work Craig. Watching your wagons develop is at least as rewarding as watching an entire layout buing built.

 

So the Games Workshop paints works well for all these materials? I've been using the Vallejo range myself, but am curious whether Games Workshop might be better - do you happen to have experience with both ranges?

Thanks, I hope progress grows exponentially now most of the pieces are in place though!

 

Yes the Games Workshop stuff works well although for someone used to enamel it possibly wouldn't be worth changing. I think I have some Vallejo somewhere but as these work for me I haven't experimented too much.

 

For varnishing transfers I may go back to varnish now i've ditched Modelmaster as I have trouble covering up the slight glossiness of Klear.

 

I've been playing with finishing my first hinged Alex Jackson coupling now I have a suitable transformer (1.2A from Maplins, I discovered that the person running a 2.5A transformer was firing a pair of magnets in series).

 

Its pretty discreet when fitted:

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but this underside shot shows the basic parts, there is only a coupling at one end for now.

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It took a good clean to stop the counterweight sticking to the floor once uncoupled (flux seems to make it quite tacky..)! Apart from that though this wagon now works perfectly.

 

Need to do a batch as I now have the right-angled jig to bend the couplings correctly relative to the pivot.

 

Just need how to amend the title to this thread a bit now :rolleyes: .

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Dont forget to add a height bar Craig, otherwise the coupling will be too high and the shank will hit the buffer beam.

 

Tony

 

 

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Dont forget to add a height bar Craig, otherwise the coupling will be too high and the shank will hit the buffer beam.

Tony

At the moment the dropper is touching the axle and stopping the coupling hitting the bufferbeam. I'll fit the height bar soon and modify the rest of the couplings so that the dropper sits a bit further away from the axle.

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Haven't had the most productive new year so far with a nice bit of flu and then a stye mucking up my vision but im all better this week now!

 

I've blackened a couple of the underframes of finished wagons although the one AJ plate shows the difference as its not done yet, the floor also shows how poor surface preparation affects blackening. I need to try something different to Birchwood Casey Brass black on MJT wm bits it seems!

 

Exactoscale wheels fit some users will be pleased to know and i've also now fitted height gauges to the AJ's although I have yet to test them against a proper height jig.

 

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I keep getting distracted by further artwork but that can be sent off once i've been paid with these newer slimline lever guards.

 

I'm also awaiting a response off 'new' Alan Gibson about some turnings to represent the ferrules lost on these so that I don't have to file bits of tube. I've given him a set of sizes that allows normal 1mm shanked buffers and gives a ferrule scaling well to the buffer bodies unlike the Exactoscale ones that are exact scale and smaller than the main buffer body on these!

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Whats the state of play here Craig?

It would be nice to see how this lot is progressing ;)

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