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35 Ark Royal

Hornby Class 50,s

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50002 and 50045 were slated by the model press at the time as being too dark for the late version of NSE. Equally 50027 and 50048 were too light for the early version (although with weathering could pass for light-faded examples). As such the releases of 50026 and 50033 are attempts to make accurate versions of the respective liveries. But one (or both?) are still wrong...

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Maybe Hornby knows something we don’t...

 

With only a few weeks to go until SVRs class 50 gala.. 50033 is in undercoat, but observedly it has regained those long lost grab handles on the cab.

Edited by adb968008

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Maybe Hornby knows something we don’t...

With only a few weeks to go until SVRs class 50 gala.. 50033 is in undercoat, but observedly it has regained those long lost grab handles on the cab.

It's been stated several times by the team working on it that it will not be painted in anything more than undercoat before the gala and that when it does it is going in Large Logo.

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It's been stated several times by the team working on it that it will not be painted in anything more than undercoat before the gala and that when it does it is going in Large Logo.

Thanks but you missed the point completely.

 

The Hornby class 50033 has grab handles that 50033 does not have, for at least 30 years, amongst other things and certainly not in NSE days, I was being a bit sarcastic about the model but guess it flew over.

FYI, LL blue isn’t accurate for handles either..,

https://www.flickr.com/photos/dwbphotos/23281970065

my assumption they’ve added them back is for functional reasons, rather than historical or to appease Hornby.

Edited by adb968008
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I've received my 50033. Happy enough with the paint colours but build quality is a bit poor. Had it apart to DCC yesterday, everything present but it's all just a bit sloppy. Body clips are not as tight as older models leading to a little play between it and the chassis, wires are not as neatly routed around the circuit boards and bogies inside. Moving louvres had unclipped. Nothing is broken, it's just not as good a job as my older ones. New factory / old tools?

 

Rich

Edited by Rich Papper

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Morning all.

 

I have D400

 

Is anyone else seeing a poor running issue from start up, in that the loco can't crawl and rather splutters along the track, head code flashing as if the wheels or track were filthy?

 

I have mine on the rolling road just now and she does it there as well.

In fact from running smoothly at a low speed she reverted back to the spluttering.

 

I find that I can increase the controller (I am DC only) and little effect is seen then suddenly she will speed up and run smoothly, almost like it overcomes something.

 

She has had a good bit of running already so I don't think it's in need of running in.

 

Any thoughts or help would be great.

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Likely the pin points are dirty.....in Hornbys quest for pointless innovation the class 50s and 31s use the axle pin points for pickup instead of the tried and tested wiper method which every single other UK R2R manufacturer uses....which is normally fine until they get full of grease from the gears and then associated dirt...give the pinpoints a wipe and then the pin point pockets on the brass strip on the inside of the bogie frames....

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I am currently debugging a similar thing on one of my class 50's (albeit an older one, 50035), I purchased second hand.

 

Having had the motor out it runs fine.

Put it back in I get poor performance.

Ive removed one of the drive shafts and found performance tripled, but wasn't ideal it still showed over 0.4a draw.

Since them I removed the worm from the motor bogie tower, given it a thorough cleaning, including its gear box mount and added a light amount of peco lube oil.

post-20773-0-93132100-1541676914_thumb.jpeg

Since then it's picked up considerably to a more appropriate 0.2a and a big speed increase.

 

I am in process of reassembly, (I put the caps somewhere and forgot where so it's waiting), but the running issue you suggested seems to have been resolved on my particular loco with the above when ive run it.

 

The wires themselves aren't soldered, but held on by caps on mine, so it could also be a loose connection also.

 

If your planning to disassemble, I recommend putting a different bit of colour on the PCB at the wire terminator and on the wire so you can easily match them back up again as there's 3 identical black wires there.

post-20773-0-50412300-1541676929_thumb.jpeg

 

Good luck resolving it, but start with the simpliest… are the wheels clean first.

Edited by adb968008

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I'm finding that I'm needing to clean all of my Hornby locos around the worm in the gear box. The worst offenders refuse to move.... and the better ones do stutter. But these are locos that haven't been run for a while. Cleaning the contacts on the 50s is always a good idea as loads of dirt finds it way there

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Thanks all, interesting stuff, is there something going on with the grease they use on the worms I wonder? I ask as I had an H class that refused to run until I dug out most of the grease they had pumped in the box.

 

Getting back to the 50s I wonder if the axels could use some of the dreaded 'Electrolube' then? 

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Just as an update.

 

Checked out the pickups and they are all ok, did a current reading and she is at 200mA normal running and starts from 50mA.

Still stuttering at slow speed, so I guess inside I go!

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The gear boxes on most Hornby diesels have bearings that dry on the top where the worm sits and when they do, they stutter around and run like dogs. It takes a fair while for oil to sink back into them when you apply a drop but once done they are excellent runners again. As there are two towers, it is not easy to guess which one or both needs the oil either.

 

I have had this happen on my 31, 50 and 56.

Edited by JSpencer

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The gear boxes on most Hornby diesels have bearings that dry on the top where the worm sits and when they do, they stutter around and run like dogs. It takes a fair while for oil to sink back into them when you apply a drop but once done they are excellent runners again. As there are two towers, it is not easy to guess which one or both needs the oil either.

 

I have had this happen on my 31, 50 and 56.

 

Hmm thanks, I have a range of Hob-e-lube oils to use, which one do you think I should try?

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Hmm thanks, I have a range of Hob-e-lube oils to use, which one do you think I should try?

Oil that is gold in colour.

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LOL is that light gold or dark?

As long as it is not water colour like electrolube

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Hi guys

 

Well I nervously opened the class 50 this evening.

I seem to have a soldered circuit board inside and all looked ok, mind you there seems to be only slightly less electronics than used on the space shuttle, all that for a marker light and headcode?

 

The worms did look a bit dry as did the bearings and drive shafts.

 

Started off with a few drops of ultra light oil then finished with a bit of medium.

 

She does seem smoother and the stuttering is improved.

Maybe in time it will become even better.

 

Thanks for the thoughts.

 

post-1423-0-89702200-1541716098_thumb.jpg

 

post-1423-0-31226600-1541716110_thumb.jpg

 

post-1423-0-10734000-1541716120_thumb.jpg

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I’m hoping they do a model of 50017 as it is now in early NSE “toothpaste” livery with DCC and sound. As I was instrumental in saving the loco, I feel I need to have a good quality model of it.

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Yep, I did say the oil takes a while to sink in. Add a couple more drops. Run flat out lifting the loco slightly off the track, it should get smoother.

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15 minutes ago, Ouroborus said:

Looking forward to Hornby announcing a GBRF version

I hope they do them too, pretty sure they will :good:

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Hi chaps.

 

i collected my Glorious yesterday at long last. 

 

Reading through some posts here am i correct in assuming that the body fit  being quite loose, compared to 50026, is relatively normal for this model? (50033)? 

 

Thanks 

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