Jump to content
 

Pixie's Workbench - 2mm/ft Diesels and a 305mm/ft Cavalier


Pixie
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Premium
13 hours ago, justin1985 said:

 

Playing around with it, it's remarkable how much the bogies are sprung upward. Pressing down on the loco roof, the body will compress down toward the bogies by about a mm - which brings the buffers much closer to the correct height!

 

As the plug-in type bogie arrangement used also sets the worm gear meshing distance I am bemused/surprised at the amount of movement here. With the body/chassis compressed down onto the bogies I suspect there is no clearance and at the 'normal' height wonder if it's pretty close to de-meshing. Total gear tooth depth can't be much more than this figure - which I suppose must be somewhere in the 64-80dp range (0.5mod-0.4mod). A danger then would seem to be the worm milling away the top of the wormwheel teeth over time, which I think is a past issue with the Dapol Hymek which has a similar sprung arrangement. Lowering it a bit would certainly be wise if this is the case to prevent it.

 

Izzy

Edited by Izzy
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 01/09/2020 at 21:41, PaulCheffus said:

I’m guessing you didn’t see my PM. I will be getting some printed towards the end of the year and wanted to know what number you would like.


My sincere apologies Paul, I’ll be in touch!

 

On 03/09/2020 at 18:47, justin1985 said:

Is your idea to replace the upright tabs from the bogie with springs, and have them rub against the existing flappy contact strips (but with tension taken out of them?).

 

Morning Justin - good choice on livery. My next one will be the same to model D8658 in its final BR days; it’s a great machine in preservation that makes a very satisfying noise!

 

For the bogie/pick-up arrangement I retain the uprights on the bogies and use them to mount the coupling springs onto vertically (the bogie uprights fit into the ‘bore’ of the spring), fixed place with a little blob of solder. The vertical springs then make direct contact with the chassis block for electrical continuity and provide just enough uplift to provide the required spacing between the gearing. It looks a little like Flexicoil springing but with one spring either side of the gear tower. This means that flappy paddle system can be completely discarded, which pleases me greatly as I’ve had no end of issues with it.  I’ve used this system for years on my Hymeks and D6300s and I’m pleased with it, it also seems to solve the body-moving-before-the-bogies-do issue that plagues Dapol stuff. I’m currently in France* but I will get some photos when I get home - it’s a lot simpler to photograph than explain. The only issue with the Clayton I see is that chassis block is only as wide as the nose but the principle should still work. 

 

One thing I have been musing it’s putting a Judith Edge cab onto the EFE body, it would certainly add some finesse around this area. 

 

Cheers,

Steve

 

*where I seem to have acquired a helper... who helpfully deleted attempt one at this message!
 

50306756218_d3933be4c5_k.jpg

  • Like 7
Link to post
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Pixie said:

 

For the bogie/pick-up arrangement I retain the uprights on the bogies and use them to mount the coupling springs onto vertically (the bogie uprights fit into the ‘bore’ of the spring), fixed place with a little blob of solder. The vertical springs then make direct contact with the chassis block for electrical continuity and provide just enough uplift to provide the required spacing between the gearing. It looks a little like Flexicoil springing but with one spring either side of the gear tower. This means that flappy paddle system can be completely discarded, which pleases me greatly as I’ve had no end of issues with it.  I’ve used this system for years on my Hymeks and D6300s and I’m pleased with it, it also seems to solve the body-moving-before-the-bogies-do issue that plagues Dapol stuff. I’m currently in France* but I will get some photos when I get home - it’s a lot simpler to photograph than explain. The only issue with the Clayton I see is that chassis block is only as wide as the nose but the principle should still work. 

 

Hi Steve, 

 

Gotcha - sounds like a good system. But I'm not sure there's enough clearance on the Clayton.

IMG_20200905_131041.jpg.542251d1ad530fb051e70e3c7cf5cdcb.jpg

The flappy bits overlay the bogie pivot hole, and there only looks like 1mm or so of chassis block accessible either side underneath them within the hole. The springs might be in danger of sliding into the pivot and getting caught, or at least interfering with rotation?

 

My thought was maybe to cut the upright tabs down, or bend them over double, and attach springs that would bear on the flaps with much less force than the tabs do. Perhaps also reduce the tension in the flaps.

 

I might have an experiment when I'm feeling brave!

 

4 hours ago, Pixie said:

 

*where I seem to have acquired a helper... who helpfully deleted attempt one at this message!
 

 

View, coffee, and furry helper! What a perfect weekend!

 

Justin

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Pixie said:

*where I seem to have acquired a helper... who helpfully deleted attempt one at this message!

Clearly you, as a member of staff, should not have been try to post on here when your boss was requiring your services!  :nono:

 

Jim

  • Agree 1
  • Funny 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, justin1985 said:

My thought was maybe to cut the upright tabs down, or bend them over double, and attach springs that would bear on the flaps with much less force than the tabs do. Perhaps also reduce the tension in the flaps.

 

Well, I had a play. Sorry to invade your workbench thread!

 

As I was thinking of butchering the uprights to fit springs, I started by gradually chopping them back to see if that would make a difference in itself. Lo and behold, simply trimming down the tabs by 1mm reduced the height by enough to look a lot better, but pickup still worked fine!

 

Inevitably I then went a tad further, and ended up with a bit of a cogging motion, and slight Noddy bounce as it ran. I'm not sure if that was the result of the worm mesh getting too tight for comfort, or pickup becoming unreliable. Either way, popping a (looser wound) coupling spring over the tab (no fixing - yet) restored smooth running without increasing height again. 

 

Before:

IMG_20200903_181659.jpg.7053bc6ad078a39740ef65134c2115ce.jpg

 

After:

IMG_20200905_144834.jpg.353189680b911fca4316ab4c8af81860.jpg

 

It's still a tad high, but much more reasonable looking in terms of buffer height (although the Farish BR van does have lower buffer height than some Association kits, I'd noticed). It certainly also feels to me that there is appreciably less daylight between bogie and chassis.

 

I imagine with the springs, I could probably take the tabs down a bit further, like I'd originally planned - there is still a tiny bit of of compression when I press on the roof.  But I think I've reached a happy medium. If it's not at the point where the worm mesh is setting the height, it can't be far off! 

 

Justin

  • Like 6
  • Agree 1
  • Thanks 1
  • Informative/Useful 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Justin, 

 

Thats looking good; certainly dropping it down is a marked improvement. I’m looking forward to seeing Dailuaine in full early-70s mode, I think it’ll look very at home.

 

I had a look at mine this evening and the normal approach for the Hymek and the 22 wouldn’t work as you suggested, there’s just not enough chassis block for the springs to make contact with and they would end up somewhere in the gear tower. For mine, I’ve nipped the paddles at the corner of the chassis block so they were flush with the chassis block. 


4F59F66A-D585-4154-A1BA-00AB781BC36B.jpeg.b285b846d29c25beff6601ccab770ff4.jpeg

 

I’ve then added the slightest of ‘humps’ in the middle so the paddle is not inconstancy with the bogie upright. 

 

B4C760B5-D438-47E4-99C0-9CD622B1DBE2.jpeg.600d6e4642749349cd172d1c541bb126.jpeg

 

The spring on the bogie upright then makes the electrical contact and allows for a little height tweaking. 

 

21F32C16-F1E3-44FB-8D09-13EA17C54CA1.jpeg.969e7430e65e0b97b80818f1e3451040.jpeg

 

It seems to have worked, my Clayton is currently trundling around my Unitrack circle without much fuss. Assuming it’s all fine at the weekend then I’ll solder the springs in place. 

 

Height-wise, I’d call it close enough with this Farish Mk.1. 

 

5DBF5BF6-7194-4088-8A05-B879944D5111.jpeg.9a3d1a723aae05c23099d605fc67b9a0.jpeg

 

For reference and as promised, here’s the what I do for the Dapol 22s and Hymeks. It’s pretty basic but solves the problem well. 

 

D099169D-7F3E-4BC5-868D-F12345105166.jpeg.deaed50514693a8e418e4a2302d4acda.jpeg

 

Cheers,

Pix

  • Like 6
  • Thanks 2
  • Informative/Useful 6
  • Craftsmanship/clever 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi John,

 

I've got some that are in use on Parkend to make up 2-3 wagon 'clusters' with DG's on the outer vehicles. They're very nice and it's quite pleasing to take up the slack when hauling a train of them. My only criticism is they're a permanent coupling so a long rake would be a big of a pain to handle; if I ever get around to building the 'mainline' layout I sometimes threaten to build then I would probably find a way of mounting them with a magnet so they could be separated.

 

I don't think there's anything available now - I bought a big bundle from the chap behind Mathieson Models which remain unused so not really been in the market for them. I seem to recall someone on here (or perhaps the VAG) has been making some 2mm 3-links so it may be worth checking with them.

 

Cheers,

Steve

  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Pixie said:

I seem to recall someone on here (or perhaps the VAG) has been making some 2mm 3-links so it may be worth checking with them.

Not sure if you're referring to me, Steve.

 

I make my cosmetic) ones by winding annealed 10thou p/b wire around a former filed to 2mm wide from a piece of 10thou steel strip, squeezing the coils against the flat side as i go.  The individual coils are then cut off with a strong craft knife (Stanley).   2 are threaded together, the third threaded onto the hook and then the other two threaded onto it.  No need to paint or blacken as the p/b wire tarnishes to a dark brown.

Seen here on some mineral wagons.

1877144419_Dixonsbogie.JPG.8d7d88f04f97eabd8033055498aab04f.JPG

 

The 7ton 'bogie' on the left has shorter middle links made on a similar jig.  The two 'Dixon's are semi permanently coupled together with A/Js at either end.

 

Jim

  • Informative/Useful 1
  • Craftsmanship/clever 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

I make my cosmetic 3 links in a very similar way to Jim, but I use 0.25mm gunmetal coloured copper craft wire.

You can by a reel of over 1000m here; https://www.wires.co.uk/acatalog/craft-col-0250.html

 

In the photo below, the couplings hanging down from the Gannet hopper have been caught in the overspray from the black paint. The coupling between the Gannet and Grampus is in its natural gunmetal finish. It looks almost identical to Jim's tarnished phosphor bronze.

109469470_gannetgrampus.jpg.678506fb360784fb5b95b191789c5263.jpg

  • Like 9
  • Craftsmanship/clever 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi pixie

Great work on the clayton, always enjoy seeing someone improve RTR stuff like your clayton mods, many people are happy to accept things as they come and that's fair enough but I love seeing modifications.

 

Can I ask a few things on your Clayton mods if you don't mind.

 

Do you take the glazing out to paint the edges? I can see that the interior shelf is an easy candidate for painting but did you do all sides of all glazing. Yours looks much better to my eye and I'd love to replicate your steps.

 

Secondly on the spring mod, I saw it mentioned earlier and i think I can see the remnants of the vertical pickup on the bogie side. Do you just trim this down to a level below where the springs will reach? It looks like the pictures includes whats left but just obviously blacked out by the looks.

 

As I say great work, much appreciated.

 

 

 

 

Thanks in advance

MHB

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi MHB,

 

The Clayton glazing pushed straight out, it made a nice change not to have to fight with heavily glued in glazing. The main edge you want to paint/cover is the edge that’s an interference fit with the

body so it’s important to remove it. 
 

The vertical uprights are in unchanged, just painted black. I didn’t remove any material from them or trim them at all. 

I hope this helps, please let me know if I can assist any further. 
 

Meanwhile on my workbench, things have turned very Southern. I’ve had a hankering to model some early 2000s SWT EMUs for a while so I’ve been busy in CAD. So far I’ve finished the 4-CIG, 4-BIG and 4-VEP.
 

EAA2684D-399B-4EFE-A4DC-EB3F4555CE0C.jpeg.c7fd1aecbb4fb28ba8d568c874eb8fa0.jpeg

 

E25A1476-A677-46F6-AD67-C233F91E4CD4.jpeg.d85757b94615537c955a88746929dcda.jpeg

 

And a few oddities to as space fillers. 
 

EF92AECB-986F-4001-B385-536759C41D5C.jpeg.ab5df24831dcd645dff797ce51cacb91.jpeg

 

2146BF81-99EA-4B81-A8C2-AAC52089514F.jpeg.733b0e0e360f1555f11140aaf36723f6.jpeg

I think the entire world maybe drawing etches at the moment, PPD are quoting up to 6 weeks lead time!

 

Cheers,

Pix

  • Like 4
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

58 minutes ago, Pixie said:

I think the entire world maybe drawing etches at the moment, PPD are quoting up to 6 weeks lead time!

I think they are working at reduced capacity due to Covid restrictions.  I was quoted that delivery time on 29th June and the etches arrived on 26th August.  They were shut down for a spell at the start of lockdown, so are probably still a good bit behind.

 

Jim

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Pixie said:

Hi MHB,

 

The Clayton glazing pushed straight out, it made a nice change not to have to fight with heavily glued in glazing. The main edge you want to paint/cover is the edge that’s an interference fit with the

body so it’s important to remove it. 
 

The vertical uprights are in unchanged, just painted black. I didn’t remove any material from them or trim them at all. 

I hope this helps, please let me know if I can assist any further. 

 

 

Cheers,

Pix

Hi Pixie

 Not your fault but more a word of warning, my glazing was heavily glued and did not come out smoothly at all. Mines was a small warning panel green example so wondering if it was a different person from a different part of the line. 

I don't regret it but I now need to hope the EFE parts dept is up and running already

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
  • RMweb Gold

Really like the concept you are aiming for there, even if it would look a lot better 20 years later with the stock in Swallow! 
 

as for the reading corner, very nice!   Really miss those seats on the way in to London by train (not that it’s happened much this year).  The replacement on the new stock is so uncomfortable in comparison!  

Link to post
Share on other sites

36 minutes ago, The Fatadder said:

Really like the concept you are aiming for there, even if it would look a lot better 20 years later with the stock in Swallow! 


Should a decent 2mm HST and Mk.3 appear (Paging Mr Kato-san) expect to see load of Hydraulics on eBay and the whole lot being moved forward several decades.

 

Pix

  • Like 1
  • Agree 1
  • Funny 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
14 minutes ago, Pixie said:


Should a decent 2mm HST and Mk.3 appear (Paging Mr Kato-san) expect to see load of Hydraulics on eBay and the whole lot being moved forward several decades.

 

Pix

Should that happen I would be mighty tempted to stick a whole lot of 1998 P4 stock on eBay and a switch to something smaller...

 

it’s still something I often debate, but as much like you my ambition for a large mainline 1998 layout is many years down the line I keep working on 4mm projects because it’s what I know...

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Pixie said:

Whilst I do harbour long-term desires of building a large 2mm layout based around somewhere on the GWML, the short-term practicalities of living in a relatively small two bedroom house does scupper these plans.  Pragmatically, it’s at least a couple of decades until I’m likely to be in a position to have the space to build the layout-room--Cavalier-Restoration-Centre I dream of, by which time the models I’m building will probably be due for replacement.

 

With all this in mind, I’ve decided to build a few photo-dioramas. Metre-long sections of various bits of GWML that will allow be to get the trains out and take some photographs of them in a correct setting. Based around the IKEA LACK shelves, it will allow neat wall-mounting and easy changeover between JAPlank and whichever one I fancy putting up. 

Have you considered a modular concept?

I have a similar 'problem', I share my layout room with the rest of the family. My daughter has her desk and a lounge chair and we also use it to dry the laundry.

No space left for a permanent layout.

I've recently decided that I will build modules that are easily set up and connected with some 'blank space' in between. Two terminus stations (one is a junction to the main line aka fiddle yard) and at least one station in between. Can be extended in the future or I can build more modules and use different modules in a running session.

In your case it will be a bit more difficult with a four track main line but maybe u can use two lines for through running?

 

Jan

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
2 hours ago, Pixie said:


Should a decent 2mm HST and Mk.3 appear (Paging Mr Kato-san) expect to see load of Hydraulics on eBay and the whole lot being moved forward several decades.

 

Pix

 

Hi Pix,

 

Do you regard the Dapol HST as being poor?  I reckon it’s not too bad, though of course some tickling is always good. Or is it the Mk3s that are the problem?

 

cheers

 

Ben A.

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

On 28/12/2020 at 18:52, Jan W said:

Have you considered a modular concept?

I have a similar 'problem', I share my layout room with the rest of the family. My daughter has her desk and a lounge chair and we also use it to dry the laundry.

No space left for a permanent layout.

I've recently decided that I will build modules that are easily set up and connected with some 'blank space' in between. Two terminus stations (one is a junction to the main line aka fiddle yard) and at least one station in between. Can be extended in the future or I can build more modules and use different modules in a running session.

In your case it will be a bit more difficult with a four track main line but maybe u can use two lines for through running?

 

Jan

 

Hi Jan, 

 

I think that's a good approach - for me, I'm not really much of an operator. I like building things and occasionally shuffling a few wagons around which I can do with JAPlank and Parkend when it gets set up in the living room. I've got mid-term plans a brick-built workshop in the garden so I may end up building a simple loop of track in there to get stuff run properly, an idea would be to have some modules that drop into the loop. Food for thought! I do like the '3D painting' style of layout, it means it can always be set up without dominating a space. 

 

RMweb1.jpg.524a9a0998ac12e1b158dfe62b12ef7a.jpg

 

On 28/12/2020 at 19:38, Ben A said:

Do you regard the Dapol HST as being poor?  I reckon it’s not too bad, though of course some tickling is always good. Or is it the Mk3s that are the problem?

 

Hello Ben,

 

For me, a bit of both. Putting aside all the livery issues, QC issues and general poor build quality I have had with Dapol stuff of that era which could be corrected, I find the Dapol offering very lack luster. For the Mk.3s, I think the rooves and end are too flat, there’s not enough depth on the corridor connections and the windows I think are a little too square in the corners and perhaps a little too high.  For the latter two points, some Shawplan style Laser-Glaze may do wonders, but the coaches just lack the bulk of a Mk.3 to my eyes. Bringing in Dapol’s weird livery errors, colour choices, lack of tinted glazing, curvy bogies which could be corrected, but on the kind of fleet I would want it’d be a massive repaint and rebuilding undertaking (especially for liveries like Swallow, Fag Packet, etc).

 

For the Power Cars, I think they’re better than the Mk.3s but still have some oddities which ruin the look for me. If you take this image - https://www.flickr.com/photos/sheedypj/28334636486/ and comparing it to this image https://www.flickr.com/photos/johnfrombedford/30990689328/in/photolist-PdxoeN-bneUYs-HaQGWU-n6rXsE-qoeCaG-WKKg3v-QrLEVg-p8YHkm-nLTcJ2-sctoNq-2jxpBbQ-G4htf2-BenNwk-dRfyjS-2jrmFvo-JeF8bN-TfM4vU-oZkrZF-28tD1h1-qb1Hfg-dVjbyH-244YT6d-oz9tw1-WUXnUD-2cB9XjJ-YMhqLD-2h5Vxik-2gyDosw-2jrmFgA-kocExP-k4MCps-rPDtDQ-PnBNQu-2jrpsxG-bX4tNW-2h8FV9v-b3afut-2jrmFo9-nkbvCy-2jnc42t-2jnbVV9-qaNstC-256fXaq-2isVks2-y6MtyR-2isVkwL-2ivkzpL-zaqPue-222TiGh-hPiWXK - the ‘face’ of it looks out. I think the horn grille is too wide, the headlights aren’t quite wide enough and too tall (possibly a little high). I wonder if the front windscreen is a little too low, which results in the weird shaped cantrail stripe which is straight as a die on the Prototype. The whole thing isn’t helped by the livery application which makes it look odd. I appreciate all of this can be deemed as rivet counting, but it’d jar for me.

 

I think what it really boils down to for me, is that the Dapol HST is alright but it’s not what it could be. Imagine an HST to the quality and standard of a Kato Shinkansen N700 Shinkansen or even their 20-something year old Eurostar; where it just looks right straight out of the box. Not to give a disservice to Dapol, I think their 2mm 68 is of a similar level to the two aforementioned models. It’s the signature train of my generation and probably the one before also; I think it deserves a top-tier model. With your Revolution hat on; if you could be tempted, I would be willing to put my name down for 4 Swallow rakes immediately. If you produce FGW Fag-Packet and the original Barbie livery, a lot more.

 

All that said; I think the Dapol Prototype HST power is excellent. For my 1973-testing rake, I’ve been working on a project for the Mk.3s which is using the original window inlay Farish models, a tinted window inlay with a 2thou etched overlay and (when I find the heart to start cutting it up) resin doors mastered from the Dapol Prototype Mk.3 offering. I’m waiting on PPD to deliver the next wave of etches which will give me the masters for the corridor connections, bogie inners, brake discs and a few other bits. For the buffet, I’ve cheated and etched the sides for Mk.1 RKB as M1542.

 

A couple more snaps from the trackside; more oddities rather than ‘porridge’, with a dose of plausible fiction attached in a couple of cases. 

 

RMweb2.jpg.701006c86314392b35ac0c782c498d16.jpg

Above: One of BR’s initiatives in the early-1970s was it’s exhibition train. A motley collection of former LMS vehicles, along with a couple of Mk.1 BSKs, which was painted into it’s striking red and cream livery. The train would be rented out by companies to display everything from printers to musicians. In 1971, the train was hired by Bracknell-based fine art manufacturer Rowney to undertake a national tour celebrating art of all generations and promote their various wares, under the title of RailArt’71. The train was stationed at Salisbury and is seen here headed for Kensington Olympia were the tour commenced, before travelling to Cardiff, Birmingham, Newcastle and Edinburgh over a 4 week  period. The train was made of 7 vehicles; one acting as a reception room, three acting as a gallery with Stefan Knapp (a Polish born artist who has recently completed a mural on the Rowney’s newly built Bracknell headquarters), two as a product Showcase and finally one vehicle offering a small sales stand. The tour was a success but not repeated in later years.  

 

RMweb3.jpg.c0df50c298bf5624ff561b8dc0115dd1.jpg

 

RMweb4.jpg.5c02d33b2838a97b9b0364c60428fe93.jpg

Above: The last trip for the ‘Boosters’!  Having been withdrawn and at held at Brighton for several months, 20001 and 20002 are seen in July 1969 on their way to Chashmore’s in Newport. They would be scrapped by September.

 

RMweb5.jpg.c19a98b7cef2caae8c34dbefb5e8552d.jpgAbove: Another Southern Region interlooper, this time in the Summer of 1970. Whilst ED's were certainly a rarity on the GWML, your photographer initially believed that it was the fabled all-over blue Mk.1s which were rumored to be operating on the Reading to Redhill line at the time. Development of the film however proved that E6047 was in fact hauling a pair of 4-CEPs, something unseen before. What they were doing here was a long term mystery, but it's now believed they were headed for Swindon for repainting from their initial dreary overall blue into the corporate blue/grey scheme. These repaints would be foretelling of the future, setting the wheels in motion for Swindon to be used for the fleets refurbishment later in the decade. 

 

Cheers,

Pix

  • Like 14
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Obviously some engineering works on the fast lines.  When I was a lad we lived in a terrace of cottages looking across the river and Kings Meadow to the main lines headed to Paddington out of Reading General. There were goods at a low level  but the slow lines above were full of long freights headed to London in those days. So I was well aware of which lines were which well before I travelled frequently  on the line.

I quite liked the DMUs if you could get a seat up the front with a driver who left the blind up  on the one side you got the real feel of the mainlines.  Of course if there was something running slow in front you heard the klaxon at every AWS and you just new we would be switched to the slow lines to let some express past and probably run into platform 8 instead of 4. 

 

Some lovely modelling.

 

Don

Link to post
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, Steven B said:

Have you been mixing 2FS stock with standard N gauge? The Mk1 CCT and the pres-twin wagons look tiny next to the Warships.

 

Steven B

 

Probably, but I have long felt that the Bachmann Warships are too tall, even for 1:148 scale. And CCTs/GUVs are lower than normal coaching stock as well.

 

Chris

Edited by Chris Higgs
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...