djgriff Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 Lovely wagons there i built some of the old John Grey 16 tonners a few years backand more recently built some 2mm plastic ones but these are the dogs doda's. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonas Posted May 8, 2011 Share Posted May 8, 2011 Those look great. Having just taken my first steps into N I understand how little trains quickly become addictive, but this is a real eye opener as to what's out there. Are you planning a Forest of Dean layout then? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold bcnPete Posted May 8, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 8, 2011 Nice work Pix Good to see those step by steps...must dig out all my SH kits soon... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor H Posted May 8, 2011 Share Posted May 8, 2011 Pix You've given the secret away, people marvelled on how good a job you done on those 16tonners and you just showed them how easy they really are Thanks for sharing, are you trying to inspire me to finish my stuff, It could well be working. Trevor. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modfather Posted May 8, 2011 Share Posted May 8, 2011 Dammit pix, you have a real knack of making this sort of thing look easy and desirable... I still have a 158 with fs wheels in it from a few years ago somewhere, it doesn't need a layout... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryn Posted May 8, 2011 Share Posted May 8, 2011 I still have a 158 with fs wheels in it from a few years ago somewhere, it doesn't need a layout... And denial is the first sign. It's a slippery slope from here Matt Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixie Posted May 8, 2011 Author Share Posted May 8, 2011 Morning all, Thanks for all the nice comments so far, I'm really pleased that my scribblings are of interest. I'll reply to the individual comments during my lunch break tomorrow, I should probably get some decent shut eye before work tomorrow! In this installment I'm going to cover the folding and fitting of the chassis and sole bars, plus the adding of the brakes and springs. I've decided to model the most common varient of 16T for this wagon with the one sided Morton brakes, but the principles for the other variations is exactly the same. All of this is possible in one episode of The Young Ones, so about half an hour. Tools are as before, apart from the addition of the bench vice. Phase 2 - Running Gear Step 1: Based on yesterdays experience, gather supplies. Step 2: Snip the main chassis piece off of the etch. Fold down the W irons, bufferbeams and central brake gear locating lugs. Fold out the eight bodyside supports. For all folds the etched groove should be on the inside of the bend. Tin the underside of the chassis and both sides of the W irons. Snip off the tie-bar. Solder bearings into the W-irons and another two in the holes at each end of the chassis (Opps... I'd forgotten to do this before I took the photo, sorry!). Step 3: Using the two bearings at the ends of the chassis floor, align the chassis with the body. Use soldering iron to heat and laminate the two. Once cooled, the locating bearings can be removed or left in, I chose to remove them. Step 4: Remove the solebars from the etch. Using a bench vice (A real how-did-I-get-by-without-this-before tool, only £3 from the local cheapo shop too!), make the first two rough bends to form the U shape. Then place over a former or the right size and place into the vice again, I use an old file that's gummed up with solder for this. Tighten and remove. Tin rear. Step 5: Place solebars onto the model, the gaps in the solebar locate with the body supports. Use soldering iron to heat and laminate them too the main chassis etch. Also tin the underside of the brake etch and attach to the model using the same method. Add a small length of 0.33 wire for brake rod. Step 6: Collect springs and axleboxes from safe keeping place. Place onto model and heat. Add obligitary 10p pence to give sense of scale. Step 7: Leave workbench and head towards pub for well earned refreshment. Post progress on RMweb upon return. In the final section, it's just a case of adding the buffer beams, buffers and the brake levers. I think this'll take about the same time again, giving a build time of around two hours not particularly hard graft. Hope this all helps! Boomshanka, Pix 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kempenfelt Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 He hasn't finished the chassis yet nevermind the body. I do have the RCH drawings for a steel 16T mineral though... Send me my 21t and 16t 2mm ones and i'll think about it . Right Pix, if that's Craig's offer get em in the post sharpish man! I'll even chip in for postage! I missed yeh thread earlier! I knew something was up when Craig mentioned you were disappearing to wash yeh mineral! Good work though and please hide the etches when I next come to visit, otherwise i'll be deposited bits of paper in yeh pocket in exchange for you crossing my palm with nickle! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iak Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 (edited) [Admin - unnecessary quoting removed] Now that is enlightening... {Quakes at the box full lurking in the attic ] He hasn't finished the chassis yet nevermind the body. I do have the RCH drawings for a steel 16T mineral though... Send me my 21t and 16t 2mm ones and i'll think about it . Now we are getting in to major dribble territory Edited May 9, 2011 by Andy Y Quote pruning Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iak Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 (edited) [Admin - quote removed] Even more enlightenment.. [And quaking!!!] Edited May 9, 2011 by Andy Y Quote pruning Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixie Posted May 9, 2011 Author Share Posted May 9, 2011 Thanks for all the comments guys, sorry it's taken me a little longer to reply to them all! i built some of the old John Grey 16 tonners a few years back How did you find them? I've got a couple of his Fertiliser wagons to build for a friend which are very basic, I did start to draw up some etches to make them easier and more accurate but I'm starting to think a whole kit could be easier! Are you planning a Forest of Dean layout then? I've been twittering on about building Parkend Marsh Sidings for a long time and after a bit of bullying I decided to bite the bullet. There's a lot of very tasy, very modellable locations within the forest, it'd be nice to have a garage or something to model them all in! Good to see those step by steps...must dig out all my SH kits soon... If you want I'll pop some of my slightly revised bufferbeams in the post to your rents, how many do you need? You've given the secret away, people marvelled on how good a job you done on those 16tonners and you just showed them how easy they really are Haha... Maybe I should put a bottle whiskey, twenty Royals and book of black magic in the first photo of the final section to regain that illussion Dammit pix, you have a real knack of making this sort of thing look easy and desirable... I still have a 158 with fs wheels in it from a few years ago somewhere, it doesn't need a layout... Give it a go... g'worn. If you're ever back in Bracknell give us a shout (or if you can offer a tour around St. Philips Marsh ), I'll throw a couple your way! Right Pix, if that's Craig's offer get em in the post sharpish man! I'll even chip in for postage! He kept to his word on coming to Taunton if we invited those girls from that Black 5 photo...! Maybe I'll send him panels 1 and 2 from each kit and the rest after the 4mm 16T has been done. We'll continue the bullying at Railex. please hide the etches when I next come to visit, otherwise i'll be deposited bits of paper in yeh pocket in exchange for you crossing my palm with nickle! Well, when we go upto Bryn's the 2mm have the Central Shop at the show. There's all world of goodies to be had there! Pix Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iak Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 Ah ha - sunny Keighley ??? Well at least better than 2009 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Nth Degree Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 That seems so scarily simple. How do you 'fold' straight - what do you use? Actually, have you got a list of tools needed for wagon construction, bearing in mind I'd like to build some box wagons and flats too? Great work on the How To! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kris Posted May 9, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 9, 2011 That seems so scarily simple. How do you 'fold' straight - what do you use? Actually, have you got a list of tools needed for wagon construction, bearing in mind I'd like to build some box wagons and flats too? Great work on the How To! From one of Pixies earlier posts Required tools? I'd say a soldering iron, little file, knife and a pair of pliers. Solder and flux of choice too! . This holds true for most of the 2mm wagons kits that I have built. Very occasionally I have needed a reamer or a 10BA tap. A vice is a nice addition but you can get by without one (I don't use one). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Nth Degree Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 If anyone would be interested in having a go, let me know and I can probably supply the bits and pieces needed. Pix Does this offer still stand? What do you supply? How much? I'd be very interested... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Nth Degree Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 Thanks for your reply Kris - do you fold with the pliers? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
djgriff Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 Hi the john grey 16 tonners i built were basic a flat fold up etch for the sides and ends with fine etch for the strpping and doors you could build the 16 or 21 tonners, these were for a n gauge layout and put on peco 9ft chassis . If i remember right bh enterprises took over production. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kris Posted May 9, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 9, 2011 Thanks for your reply Kris - do you fold with the pliers? Depends on what I am folding, some can be done without, just using fingers but at other times for longer folds I will use a two pieces of stiff brass. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 Putting the brass between two metal rulers with elastic bands around the end can be useful. Clamp the assembly with pliers before doing the fold. Its how I did my solebars rather than putting them in a vice as I didn't have one setup at the time. There is 2mm demoing at Railex by the way for people interesting in watching live.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixie Posted May 10, 2011 Author Share Posted May 10, 2011 How do you 'fold' straight - what do you use? Due to the size of the bits in 2mm I mostly use a little set of jewellers pliers with smooth jaws - I'll grab a snap of them later on. For the bigger stuff I tend just to drop it in the vice and bend it. Good quality nickel silver and correct size fold lines with perferations certainly helps on the solebars! Actually, have you got a list of tools needed for wagon construction, bearing in mind I'd like to build some box wagons and flats too? AS Kris reposted (Thanks Kris!) most of the tools I've mentioned in the posts. I can't think of anything off hand that I forgotten but if I come across something I'll add it to the thread. One useful item is the little pots of solder tip cleaner (This stuff - http://www.maplin.co.uk/tip-tinner-cleaner-3929), although it looks expensive it's brilliant stuff and lasts a long time. Does this offer still stand? What do you supply? How much? I'd be very interested... For anyone interested I was thinking of supplying one of the minerals, wheels, bearings and buffers at cost price to give a taster... I'd probably also throw in a membership form for the 2mm Association for when it gets addictive. More of a gesture than any kind of retailing service but drop me a PM if you're interested. Hi the john grey 16 tonners i built were basic a flat fold up etch for the sides and ends with fine etch for the strpping and doors you could build the 16 or 21 tonners, these were for a n gauge layout and put on peco 9ft chassis . If i remember right bh enterprises took over production. Ahh right, that makes sense as I think I got the Fertiliser vans from BHE. I might have to try a few others in his range at somepoint, Bryn's had nice results with the Medfit. There is 2mm demoing at Railex by the way for people interesting in watching live.. Bryn and I will be hiding behind Highbury Colliery... Come and say Hi!B) Pix Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted May 10, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 10, 2011 Bryn and I will be hiding behind Highbury Colliery... Come and say Hi!B) Pix No hiding on Highbury I'm afraid - we operate (and chat) from the front Jerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 There is 2mm demoing at Railex by the way for people interesting in watching live.. Indeed - I will be there on the Sunday demo-ing wagon building (including some of the Stephen Harris mineral wagon kits). I may bring an RSU if I can borrow one, otherwise it'll be the usual 25w Antex soldering iron and solder cream. Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixie Posted May 10, 2011 Author Share Posted May 10, 2011 No hiding on Highbury I'm afraid - we operate (and chat) from the front I apologise in advance for making the place look scruffy. Indeed - I will be there on the Sunday demo-ing wagon building (including some of the Stephen Harris mineral wagon kits). I may bring an RSU if I can borrow one I could bring mine if it'd be of use? Pix Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
halfwit Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 I could bring mine if it'd be of use? Pix Just out of interest, did you use a RSU on these? Or just the 'standard issue' 25w Antex? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixie Posted May 10, 2011 Author Share Posted May 10, 2011 Just out of interest, did you use a RSU on these? Or just the 'standard issue' 25w Antex? Standard issue Antex - I avoided using the RSU as I know not everyone has access to one. Pix 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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