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Pixie's Workbench - 2mm/ft Diesels and a 305mm/ft Cavalier

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Thanks all for the comments.

 

On ‎09‎/‎02‎/‎2020 at 16:22, D869 said:

Not tempted towards 1960s Royal Mail red for the TPOs then? How hard can it be?

 

Not that hard - find me some photos of them in red on the WR in 1971 and I'll happily build a few. I have got plans to model W80300 in red as it seemed to be a late survivor (Mods - please note; I didn't imbed the below...! I shared the Flickr links and they popped up automatically!).

 

W80300_Plymouth

 

Royal Mail Coach W80300 at Exeter St.Davids 26.05.1970 F282......A Jim Freebury Railway Slide collection picture.

 

18 hours ago, Caley Jim said:

I have to agree that there is a certain frisson when you open a sheet of etches, almost the same as when you first apply power to a scratchbuilt loco chassis!

 

As is well known I lost interest when the railway started pulling trains with motorised biscuit tins, but I have to say that I did rather like the Westerns, especially in maroon or desert sand.

 

Jim

 

There's a certain elegance about the Westerns; I think they looked very smart with a rake of matching coaches. I do prefer the Warships though; they've got a very brutal presence about them!

 

1 hour ago, DavidLong said:

A Class 14 chassis seen in the raw nickel. :dance_mini: It wasn't a dream after all!

 

David

 

If you look hard enough on the internet there's even footage of a running one. Admittedly, it's over 4 years old.

 

 

Cheers,

Pix

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1 hour ago, Pixie said:

 

 

Not that hard - find me some photos of them in red on the WR in 1971 and I'll happily build a few. I have got plans to model W80300 in red as it seemed to be a late survivor

 

 

I'll keep an eye out but IIRC I've seen a couple of pics circa 1967 with a D600 and the full GW TPO set in red and one or two circa mid-70s all in Blue/Grey which leaves a band of uncertainty.

 

The full GW TPO sets were introduced in 1961 I think - 6 brand new Mark 1 TPOs per set plus a Siphon G. Four different TPO diagrams between the six coaches :o. For some reason we have not got around to building the full set for St Ruth. We kinda cheat with a set 'inspired by' the North Mail which had just one TPO and a bunch of vans... snag is that although it started from Penzance the TPO didn't get attached until Plymouth... that could be the train shown in those photos because it also had a more daylight compatible schedule while passing through Devon.

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As always Pixie, your stuff inspires.

 

Do I spy a possible range of 'greyhound model's' products? I would be very tempted by the western bits and bobs if they became available. I have one kicking around somewhere that needs a bit of TLC.

 

Julia :)

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On ‎10‎/‎02‎/‎2020 at 17:46, D869 said:

 

I'll keep an eye out but IIRC I've seen a couple of pics circa 1967 with a D600 and the full GW TPO set in red and one or two circa mid-70s all in Blue/Grey which leaves a band of uncertainty.

 

The full GW TPO sets were introduced in 1961 I think - 6 brand new Mark 1 TPOs per set plus a Siphon G. Four different TPO diagrams between the six coaches :o. For some reason we have not got around to building the full set for St Ruth. We kinda cheat with a set 'inspired by' the North Mail which had just one TPO and a bunch of vans... snag is that although it started from Penzance the TPO didn't get attached until Plymouth... that could be the train shown in those photos because it also had a more daylight compatible schedule while passing through Devon.

 

Evenin' Andy,

 

Have you got a copy of David Larkin's 'BR Parcels and Passenger-Rated Stock - Volume 3: Self-Propelled Parcels Vans, TPOs and Car-Carrying Vehicles for Motorail Services? Phew, that's quite a mouthful! That has a series of excellent photos of all six Mk.1 TPO vehicles sat at Penzance in June 1960. If you need any detail photos or inspiration then this is probably the best out there. I do have a number of etches spare that would allow you to model this rake if required; let me know.

 

22 hours ago, -missy- said:

As always Pixie, your stuff inspires.

 

Do I spy a possible range of 'greyhound model's' products? I would be very tempted by the western bits and bobs if they became available. I have one kicking around somewhere that needs a bit of TLC.

 

Julia :)

 

Thanks Julia - that's very flattering.

 

I think 'ish' is probably the best answer. At the moment it's just future-proofing the artwork to allow easy production if needed; my major blocking factor is the writing of instructions, being accessible to answer questions and queries and having the time to manage stocks to offer anything in a formalised basis. That said, I'm now getting to the point where I have got enough artworks ready to go that I could build a small stock of items so I will make an offering in time through the Association newsletter.

 

In other news; the Cavalier passed it's MOT today and, as it celebrates it's 40th birthday in April, it's the last compulsory MOT required before it can be re-registered as a Historic Vehicle. I will certainly welcome paying zero tax; although I think I'll keep the MOT going to ensure it's road worthy. Happy days.

 

Cheers,

Steve

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3 hours ago, Pixie said:

 

Evenin' Andy,

 

Have you got a copy of David Larkin's 'BR Parcels and Passenger-Rated Stock - Volume 3: Self-Propelled Parcels Vans, TPOs and Car-Carrying Vehicles for Motorail Services? Phew, that's quite a mouthful! That has a series of excellent photos of all six Mk.1 TPO vehicles sat at Penzance in June 1960. If you need any detail photos or inspiration then this is probably the best out there. I do have a number of etches spare that would allow you to model this rake if required; let me know.

 

 

Thanks Julia - that's very flattering.

 

I think 'ish' is probably the best answer. At the moment it's just future-proofing the artwork to allow easy production if needed; my major blocking factor is the writing of instructions, being accessible to answer questions and queries and having the time to manage stocks to offer anything in a formalised basis. That said, I'm now getting to the point where I have got enough artworks ready to go that I could build a small stock of items so I will make an offering in time through the Association newsletter.

 

In other news; the Cavalier passed it's MOT today and, as it celebrates it's 40th birthday in April, it's the last compulsory MOT required before it can be re-registered as a Historic Vehicle. I will certainly welcome paying zero tax; although I think I'll keep the MOT going to ensure it's road worthy. Happy days.

 

Cheers,

Steve

 

As Julia said, fantastic stuff Steve and having things like the Western detailing etches and Teddy Bear chassis available would be great.

 

As for the Cavalier being old enough to be classed as a historic vehicle - that's a little scary!

 

Jerry

 

ps. Upgrading Hydraulics in 2mm for MRJ?

Edited by queensquare

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It’s no secret I like Warships - their brutish looks, coupled to shagged out condition in the early 1970s makes them very imposing things. The Farish model is a good basis for D813-D829/D831and with the resin bodies shown a few pages back I’ve been able to model examples from the D803-D812 batch but the gap has always been the NBL machines. The biggest hurdle has been the raised fan grilles - after a little experimenting, a composite etch of a 10thou nickel silver base with a 2thou stainless steel grille has worked out pretty well. They’re not perfect, but I’m kinda chuffed with these.

 

349388D9-AB60-4D12-A377-EB796469C0B8.jpeg.e00bf475085dc7c6d7efe207efb158d8.jpeg


Same stainless sheet also included walkways for the Western; it’s now full steam ahead on the project. This one will be D1021.

 

1F244772-C72C-4901-A61B-9C903C204A85.jpeg.204edfa1011a50da74c99e2963a89947.jpeg

 

On 11/02/2020 at 23:00, queensquare said:

 

ps. Upgrading Hydraulics in 2mm for MRJ?


Sure; it’d be my pleasure. How many words are there per page roughly? Drop me a PM. 
 

Cheers,

Steve

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Proper job! I'll definitely be in the market for some NBL grilles if you can spare any Pix.

 

I reckon on chopping off all of those rivets around the roof panel edges on mine though. I think the Farish mould makers got a bit carried away there.

 

Regards, Andy

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11 hours ago, Pixie said:

...................... but I’m kinda chuffed with these.

 

And you have every right to be! :)

 

David

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On ‎19‎/‎02‎/‎2020 at 22:54, D869 said:

Proper job! I'll definitely be in the market for some NBL grilles if you can spare any Pix.

 

No problem Andy; how many do you need? I've not got any at the moment, but starting to line up a 'Production' etch.

 

On ‎20‎/‎02‎/‎2020 at 07:06, Enterprisingwestern said:

 

It won't fit through tunnels with a £2 coin superglued to the roof!

 

Mike.

 

Pffft.. My next layout will be the well-known Hydraulic hot spot of the Norfolk Broads. Or Holland.  Or the Bolivian Salt Flats. How's life in Spain?

 

Last week I was able to pop to Tiranti's in Thatcham to restock some resin supplies. Due to the nature of component sizes in 2mm; you need to build up a good amount of things to be cast before investing in 2kg of resin before it expires. I knew some of these things ha been sat around for a while, but I was a bit shocked to see the 2011 date on the etches for the container master below! Anyway, here's the first shots of a BR Type A 10' Freightliner Container and a Type C 27' Freightliner Container. The moulds for the 20' Type B and 30' Type D are curing at the moment too. It'll be nice to finally have a load for the Harris' Freightliner flats and, thanks to Railtec, the transfers are now also available which crosses a job off the list.

 

RMweb3.jpg.b68ae3b6e2d629f05ae3ea316f41cbf4.jpg

 

Cowlings for the Western's were also produced; based around the original Dapol item. I'm not sure if it's standard, but every Western I've ever picked up from them only contains one.

 

RMweb4.jpg.14bcca342dd6adc85c5740059a0eb7cc.jpg

 

And finally, something a bit different. I'm slowly restoring a couple of antique artists watercolour chests, produced by my employer around 150 years ago. I'm slowly collecting the bits to make them whole again but one of the biggest problems was to find the half pan watercolour squares in good condition; it seems that certain colours began to breakdown over time, either cracking or disintegrating. Speaking to the chief chemist at work, he was fairly confident that the rubber used during mould making wouldn't cause any issues and agreed to lend me two 'good' examples from the archives. I think they've come out nicely - originally they would of had a lead wrapper, but I won't be going that far.

 

RMweb1.jpg.4786bf18e3651f596d768848f47e9e07.jpg

 

Once painted, I think they'll look fine!

 

RMweb2.jpg.868bbd3e13b565328e7cc19d5f0b0e70.jpg

 

Cheers,

Steve

Edited by Pixie
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53 minutes ago, Pixie said:

Pffft.. My next layout will be the well-known Hydraulic hot spot of the Norfolk Broads. Or Holland.  Or the Bolivian Salt Flats. How's life in Spain?

 

 

How long have you got?!!!

 

Mike.

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7 hours ago, Pixie said:

 

 

Once painted, I think they'll look fine!

 

RMweb2.jpg.868bbd3e13b565328e7cc19d5f0b0e70.jpg

 

 

......... until someone tries to use them to paint some watercolours!

 

(All very impressive though.)

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8 hours ago, Pixie said:

I'm slowly restoring a couple of antique artists watercolour chests, produced by my employer around 150 years ago.

 

That's a beautiful watercolour set. It's nice to see that Rowney is still going strong, even though I used to buy my supplies from the competitor beginning with 'W'. :o

 

David

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Hi Pix,

Glad to see regular updates again! Having spent the last 18 months getting our place too, then decorating and unpacking box after box of stuff from the parents' house, I know how you feel! I'm loving the non modelling side projects, especially the Cavalier, despite it not being quite Germanic enough for my tastes! How to get a class 60 speedo and slip it past the other half and clock-ify it. Hmmmm.

The Western parts really look the mutts nuts, tempting me to do more than a luke warm job on what will become Champion. Are the etches likely to be available for sale at all? The wheels make a huge difference, even without the other finery!

All the best

 

Jo

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Hello all,

 

A few more etches and castings have made it to the first-trial stage in the last couple of weeks which should allow a few projects to be completed in the not too distant future.

 

First up - some etched bogie inners and cast resin standard BR DMU bogies. A little while ago I picked up a Farish 108 centre car in BR green for a few quid at second hand shop in Reading. I'm not entirely sure what for but it'll be useful for dropping into a 'scratch' DMU rake at some point. The main issue was that it was missing it's bogies - originally I had intended to buy spares from Bachmann but after a bit of consideration I thought that it'd be worth investing in a photo-tool and rubber mould to allow self-sufficient in the future.  

 

IMG_8097.jpg.031dfa59a9aaca2aef789620f4e17cab.jpg

 

And fitted to the vehicle that inspired them. The bogie steps are included on the etch; I'll add them once painted.

 

IMG_8100.jpg.e45f9058cf1a839639828c4dcef4917f.jpg

 

As these came out well, I dug out a couple of Farish 101 DMBS bodies that had came my way. As this post may testify, I see to have a bit of a magpie instinct with pickling up bodyshells when the opportunity presents itself! I think I've always considered it 'cheap' way of building up a stock of parts for conversions or means of re-bodying basket case models, but it seems to be a false economy looking back. The 101 DMBS bodies were bought for no real reason aside from them 'looking useful' but ultimately I decided on conversion into a pair of the earlier, but similar, Met-Cam Lightweights as  a couple of them turned up at Swindon in the early 1970s. I'm not wholly sure why they were there, but I guess it was linked to stripping reusable components from them. Whatever the reason, it didn't end well... particularly for this one: https://www.railcar.co.uk/images/9417 !

 

As Bachmann didn't produce a un-motorised DMBS chassis I made my own - with a fold up etch and various resin details. There's a few bits missing but for a 'scrap' DMU that will be dragged through a layout; it'll be fine. I'm surprised how well the motor castings came out, especially considering it's a home brew casting without a vacuum chamber or anything.

 

IMG_1019.JPG.0aa66b523bf1186ecce13a49211a4b25.JPG

 

The finished-ish result. Just need to start on the bodyshell now.

 

IMG_8109.JPG.8ce7710258496fe84ddbce4a64e5024d.JPG

 

Continuing the theme; BRLines has been listing new style Farish 20 bodies for sometime. A couple have been purchased and built up to match their powered counterparts.

 

IMG_1026.JPG.e86000d24c8d5aad74e36450440a4b86.JPG

 

Bogie styles and mounts follow the started Association method and standards. If there was ever a case for a unmotorized RTR loco, a 20 is probably the ultimate candidate.

 

IMG_1024.JPG.468d32269c728c6d3096f0fd5387b1b4.JPG

 

And finally on this theme, the same idea for a 37. I need to countersink the retaining bearing to allow the centre axle to fit into the frame but otherwise it's worked out OK. I don't really need a lot of unpowered 37's (it's a pity the triple-headed Llanwern iron ore trains didn't appear a few years earlier!) but again, it gets a few body shells out of the 'to-do' pile and into the stock box.

 

IMG_8130.JPG.dd2b78da45f68bd448ea3634c9adb871.JPG

 

IMG_8128.JPG.41a6325cf92972a90df7b4661204e88a.JPG

 

Now, for something completely different.  A few videos on YouTube have appeared recently for UV-cuie resin; mostly aimed at the jeweller makers out there. It's sold as a miracle-cure which cures in a few moments with no bubbles to give crystal clear results. I've long been looking for something like this for recreating RTR glazing and flush glazing certain models so I had high hopes. Having tried it... it's OK. It's certainly got potential but it really needs to be built up in a lot of layers and I'm struggling to get a beautifully flat 'glass' type finish that you get with laser-cut material.

 

IMG_7992.JPG.396c1425fc746d155240aeda93b31766.JPG

 

What I have found it useful for is adding a thin layer of resin to give a glass effect on things like head codes - I think it would be really useful for adding lenses on tail lamps, headlamps and so on. Research continues...!

 

IMG_0979.JPG.2f166fc19d18008257a819895c022fa7.JPG

 

On ‎09‎/‎03‎/‎2020 at 23:29, Steadfast said:

Hi Pix,

Glad to see regular updates again! Having spent the last 18 months getting our place too, then decorating and unpacking box after box of stuff from the parents' house, I know how you feel! I'm loving the non modelling side projects, especially the Cavalier, despite it not being quite Germanic enough for my tastes! How to get a class 60 speedo and slip it past the other half and clock-ify it. Hmmmm.

The Western parts really look the mutts nuts, tempting me to do more than a luke warm job on what will become Champion. Are the etches likely to be available for sale at all? The wheels make a huge difference, even without the other finery!

All the best

 

Jo

 

Hello Jo - hope the house is slowly becoming a home! For a brief moment I though you were thinking of putting a 60 Speedo into your car! If you want to really go to town on the idea, I to have a GLS-level Cavalier binnacle with both the speedometer and rev-counter. I started to do a bit tinkering to convert it into a two-part clock; the speedo doing the hours (with each divider presenting the hours) and the rev-counter doing the minutes. I managed to get an Arudino to get movement out of them both but never progressed it any further - if I find a neat way of mounting them nicely.

 

IMG_8134.JPG.e06a05ab8b590384db4b01258fbf7bd6.JPG

 

Oh, and if you have trouble getting 'train-things' in the house, just pretend it's modern art. It worked here.

 

IMG_8133.JPG.e9856d0a182ee9a332134c04575f6447.JPG

 

Certainly should be able to help out there with the Western bits; drop me a PM.

 

Cheers,

Steve

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Well the pictures tell a thousand words ! I could easily use the class 20 bits and the dmu for a rainy day in the future.  But the last picture is hard to Swallow ... 

I get my coat - it is raining in Brum ! 

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Posted (edited)

Hi Robert, 

 

The etched elements may be available in time but you would need to source the underframe tanks and side frames from the Bachmann Spares Department. As some of the cast elements origins started with Bachmann’s design (although modified), I’m not comfortable with the legal and ethical side of selling them.
 

Cheers,

Pix

 

 

Edited by Pixie

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1 hour ago, Pixie said:

 

Oh, and if you have trouble getting 'train-things' in the house, just pretend it's modern art. It worked here.

 

IMG_8133.JPG.e9856d0a182ee9a332134c04575f6447.JPG

 

I think I prefer ducks, but then it has been said that I have A4 Compulsive Purchase disorder. 
 

Tim

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3 hours ago, Pixie said:

I to have a GLS-level Cavalier binnacle with both the speedometer and rev-counter. I started to do a bit tinkering to convert it into a two-part clock;

 

I picked up an ammeter from a trade stand at the Pontefract show. It has been repurposed to keep an eye on the current draw from my CNC steppers. Not quite so automotive... although the word 'Tractor' may be appropriate I gather. I'm still looking out for some less ugly screws.

P1070249.JPG.a75be54ac24ab0b41ba6f20fd5b841b1.JPG

 

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Fascinating thread Pix, buit it seems so long ago since I was reading about Roath !!!

 

Great to see you are looking at new compounds and methods for your projects in the hobby.  All power to your elbow.

 

On the subject of Hillman Imps, back in the 1970s my brother in law had a couple of Bond three wheel vehicles - pre the Bug.  These had a Hillman Imp rear subframe and all the gubbins in them and I vaguely recall his trials and tribulations with aluminium heads.  He also had a problem with one popping out of 4th gear a lot. Those cars were fibreglass bodyshells with aluminium doors.

 

Anyway keep up your great work. The bits for the Westerns look amazing and add a whole new dimension.    

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14 hours ago, Pixie said:

Oh, and if you have trouble getting 'train-things' in the house, just pretend it's modern art. It worked here.

 

Mmmmmm swallow...

I've got a third rail insulator pot hidden in the garden, and we have chives growing in a length of rail. It's a start...:D

PM sent too

 

Jo

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Hi Pix

 

Lovely work with the casting. What materials are you using currently for the moulds and the resin casts?

 

Thanks for all the inspiration!

 

Jim

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Posted (edited)
On 16/03/2020 at 00:11, Covkid said:

Fascinating thread Pix, buit it seems so long ago since I was reading about Roath !!!

 

Scarily - I think it was quite a long time ago.  I don't think Roath has seen daylight in over 10 years. Seeing as just about everything I had planned this year has been cancelled, perhaps I should dig it out and see if it still works.

 

23 hours ago, Jim T said:

Lovely work with the casting. What materials are you using currently for the moulds and the resin casts?

 

Hello Jim!

 

Apologies, I had seen your message in the Any Questions thread but not quite gotten around to replying.

 

I source most of my materials from Tiranti’s in Thatcham; initially because they were close but I’ve always had good service so I stay with them. Usual disclaimer, however. For the rubber I use T28 Silicon with the T5 FAST Catalyst.  Silicon Spray also makes excellent mould release. For the resin itself, I used Axson F32 for a long time but I have now moved across to EC4 FastCast urethane resin at the recommendation of Tiranti’s – so far it seems very good. Although awful for the environment, given they’re truly single use, I also use a plastic pipettes, wooden tea stirrers, plastic cups and plastic shot glasses. I would fully recommend buying a digital set of scales from eBay that go down to 0.1g resolution; you should be able to pick up a set for less than a tenner.  

 

In terms of process – below is what I do. I’m by no means an expert but I’m happy with the results for my own use. For preparing your master I would suggest removing any painting/printing and spending as much time as possible to make it as good as you can. The rubber will pick up brush marks, finger prints, tampo printing, etc. Once ready I attached it to a smooth flat base with a smearing of PVA. I’m currently using some fibre backed copperclad board that picked up by mistake for another project.

 

I build a Lego wall around the master, attaching it to the PCB with double sided tape. If it’s a one piece mould then I would build a simple wall like the below.

 

IMG_8151.JPG.049c73e7af0aeda6ccbb830f5b05dba8.JPG

 

If it’s to be a two part mould then I would expose a layer of bricks to allow registration of the two parts of the mould. I wish I could lay claim to this genius idea but I believe it originates with Guy on the DEMU forum.

 

IMG_8153.JPG.423f9737ccd646425611b02aaaab948d.JPG

 

To work out how much rubber I need, I then fill the mould with rice until it’s at the right height. I then pour the rice into a measuring jug to measure the volume in millilitres.

 

IMG_8152.JPG.0b121162339e637a3fa4023ae6ec90c1.JPG

 

Back to the mould – I give it a very light spray of the Silicon Spray to allow for the master to be easily removed. It should set in around 30 minutes or so.

 

Place a measuring jug onto the scales and ‘zero’ them. Pour the volume of rubber you need (as defined by the rice) into the measuring jug, once you have it make a note of the mass (in grams) of the rubber as stated by the scale. You need to mix a 20:1 rubber to catalyst by mass; in other words 5g of catalyst for every 100g of rubber. Measure out the catalyst on the scales in a shot glass; this stuff evaporates really quickly to be sure to put the lid back on the can ASAP. Mix the catalyst into the rubber - the catalyst contains a red dye which is really helpful for making sure you’ve mixed the two elements well. I use a teaspoon for this.

 

Once the rubber is well mixed; using a brush I start to paint the rubber onto the fine details of the master. Things like grilles and door panel lines are perfect for holding air bubbles so you want to work it into these areas. If you apply a really thin coat of rubber (sub 0.5mm) then they should be visible for you to tease out with a pin or toothpick. Once this is done, it’s time for the main pour. You do not want to have an ‘avalanche’ of rubber out of the beaker as it will introduce air bubbles into your mould, instead I start from one corner of the mould to pour a very small amount of rubber. Once it starts to pour, begin to tilt the beaker back and lift it up away from the mould with the target of making the ‘bead’ of rubber to be as thin as possible. This will force air bubbles out of the rubber and with a bit of practise you can get the bead to be a fraction of a millimetre in diameter and from a height of a few feet.

 

Once poured, it’s then a waiting game. With the FAST Catalyst it should cure in around 6 hours but I leave it 24 to be sure. Once set carefully remove the Lego wall and pull the rubber mould away from the flat surface. If it’s a simple open-backed, one-piece mould, you should have a mould ready to use. If going for a two piece mould then the process is essentially repeated. Taking the first part of  the mould, turn it onto it’s back and build a new wall around it. Make sure the master is well seated, give is a spray of Silicon and then pour the resin in the same way. Below is the mould I made for the D803-D812 Warships; the first part is on the left and the second part on the right. If I were doing it again, I’d add a couple of ‘feeds’ into the inside of the body to allow the excess resin and air to escape easier when pushing the two parts of the mould together. To learn the process, I’d recommend making a couple of simple one-piece open back moulds first. Things like bogie sideframes, underframe boxes, etc are good for this.

 

IMG_8155.JPG.7c6c53be74b423cd1061767aa55a195a.JPG

 

In terms of casting; it’s a pretty simple process. For tricky areas (like diesel grilles) I brush a little talcum powder on before pouring as it seems to help against bubbles. The resin is mixed 1:1 ratio by mass (not volume) – very important as one part is far denser than the other. Measure out the two parts in shot glasses with the digital scales and mix together with a tea stirrer. You don’t have long to work with it, around 2 minutes before it starts to cure. First I take a small amount in a plastic pipette and ‘inject’ it into any small details. Air bubbles are then teased out with a cocktail stick before the main pour is made. It will turn creamy coloured quite quickly and can be removed from the mould after around an hour. The first couple of pours in a new mould might be used to help locate troublesome areas where bubbles collect and also show up some stray bits of rubber that can be snipped off with a sharp set of nail scissors. The rubber is hardy stuff, the Warship mould is around 5 years old and still have most of grille and rivet detail - excuse the lint!

 

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I’m sorry the above started out with some photos and ended up being a bit wordy. I’d planned to make a mould with a load of photos this evening to demonstrate the point but time has disappeared it seems. It’s a lot simpler to show rather than explain, I promise! For something like a BR 5-plank body, my main concern would be a relatively thin wall section which it could be hard to get air bubbles out of. Are you planning to run them loaded? Perhaps a fake floor could make life easier? My interest is piqued however; if you’ve got a photo of the master we could come up with some ideas. I’d certainly be interested in a few for my modelling needs…!

 

Hope this helps – shout if I can assist anymore.

 

Steve

Edited by Pixie
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Hi Steve. 

 

It would be good to see Roath on the go again. It truly captured the area. 

 

Rob. 

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