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Pixie

Pixie's Workbench - 2mm/ft Diesels and a 305mm/ft Cavalier

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13 hours ago, justin1985 said:

 

Playing around with it, it's remarkable how much the bogies are sprung upward. Pressing down on the loco roof, the body will compress down toward the bogies by about a mm - which brings the buffers much closer to the correct height!

 

As the plug-in type bogie arrangement used also sets the worm gear meshing distance I am bemused/surprised at the amount of movement here. With the body/chassis compressed down onto the bogies I suspect there is no clearance and at the 'normal' height wonder if it's pretty close to de-meshing. Total gear tooth depth can't be much more than this figure - which I suppose must be somewhere in the 64-80dp range (0.5mod-0.4mod). A danger then would seem to be the worm milling away the top of the wormwheel teeth over time, which I think is a past issue with the Dapol Hymek which has a similar sprung arrangement. Lowering it a bit would certainly be wise if this is the case to prevent it.

 

Izzy

Edited by Izzy
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On 01/09/2020 at 21:41, PaulCheffus said:

I’m guessing you didn’t see my PM. I will be getting some printed towards the end of the year and wanted to know what number you would like.


My sincere apologies Paul, I’ll be in touch!

 

On 03/09/2020 at 18:47, justin1985 said:

Is your idea to replace the upright tabs from the bogie with springs, and have them rub against the existing flappy contact strips (but with tension taken out of them?).

 

Morning Justin - good choice on livery. My next one will be the same to model D8658 in its final BR days; it’s a great machine in preservation that makes a very satisfying noise!

 

For the bogie/pick-up arrangement I retain the uprights on the bogies and use them to mount the coupling springs onto vertically (the bogie uprights fit into the ‘bore’ of the spring), fixed place with a little blob of solder. The vertical springs then make direct contact with the chassis block for electrical continuity and provide just enough uplift to provide the required spacing between the gearing. It looks a little like Flexicoil springing but with one spring either side of the gear tower. This means that flappy paddle system can be completely discarded, which pleases me greatly as I’ve had no end of issues with it.  I’ve used this system for years on my Hymeks and D6300s and I’m pleased with it, it also seems to solve the body-moving-before-the-bogies-do issue that plagues Dapol stuff. I’m currently in France* but I will get some photos when I get home - it’s a lot simpler to photograph than explain. The only issue with the Clayton I see is that chassis block is only as wide as the nose but the principle should still work. 

 

One thing I have been musing it’s putting a Judith Edge cab onto the EFE body, it would certainly add some finesse around this area. 

 

Cheers,

Steve

 

*where I seem to have acquired a helper... who helpfully deleted attempt one at this message!
 

50306756218_d3933be4c5_k.jpg

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4 hours ago, Pixie said:

 

For the bogie/pick-up arrangement I retain the uprights on the bogies and use them to mount the coupling springs onto vertically (the bogie uprights fit into the ‘bore’ of the spring), fixed place with a little blob of solder. The vertical springs then make direct contact with the chassis block for electrical continuity and provide just enough uplift to provide the required spacing between the gearing. It looks a little like Flexicoil springing but with one spring either side of the gear tower. This means that flappy paddle system can be completely discarded, which pleases me greatly as I’ve had no end of issues with it.  I’ve used this system for years on my Hymeks and D6300s and I’m pleased with it, it also seems to solve the body-moving-before-the-bogies-do issue that plagues Dapol stuff. I’m currently in France* but I will get some photos when I get home - it’s a lot simpler to photograph than explain. The only issue with the Clayton I see is that chassis block is only as wide as the nose but the principle should still work. 

 

Hi Steve, 

 

Gotcha - sounds like a good system. But I'm not sure there's enough clearance on the Clayton.

IMG_20200905_131041.jpg.542251d1ad530fb051e70e3c7cf5cdcb.jpg

The flappy bits overlay the bogie pivot hole, and there only looks like 1mm or so of chassis block accessible either side underneath them within the hole. The springs might be in danger of sliding into the pivot and getting caught, or at least interfering with rotation?

 

My thought was maybe to cut the upright tabs down, or bend them over double, and attach springs that would bear on the flaps with much less force than the tabs do. Perhaps also reduce the tension in the flaps.

 

I might have an experiment when I'm feeling brave!

 

4 hours ago, Pixie said:

 

*where I seem to have acquired a helper... who helpfully deleted attempt one at this message!
 

 

View, coffee, and furry helper! What a perfect weekend!

 

Justin

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5 hours ago, Pixie said:

*where I seem to have acquired a helper... who helpfully deleted attempt one at this message!

Clearly you, as a member of staff, should not have been try to post on here when your boss was requiring your services!  :nono:

 

Jim

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3 hours ago, justin1985 said:

My thought was maybe to cut the upright tabs down, or bend them over double, and attach springs that would bear on the flaps with much less force than the tabs do. Perhaps also reduce the tension in the flaps.

 

Well, I had a play. Sorry to invade your workbench thread!

 

As I was thinking of butchering the uprights to fit springs, I started by gradually chopping them back to see if that would make a difference in itself. Lo and behold, simply trimming down the tabs by 1mm reduced the height by enough to look a lot better, but pickup still worked fine!

 

Inevitably I then went a tad further, and ended up with a bit of a cogging motion, and slight Noddy bounce as it ran. I'm not sure if that was the result of the worm mesh getting too tight for comfort, or pickup becoming unreliable. Either way, popping a (looser wound) coupling spring over the tab (no fixing - yet) restored smooth running without increasing height again. 

 

Before:

IMG_20200903_181659.jpg.7053bc6ad078a39740ef65134c2115ce.jpg

 

After:

IMG_20200905_144834.jpg.353189680b911fca4316ab4c8af81860.jpg

 

It's still a tad high, but much more reasonable looking in terms of buffer height (although the Farish BR van does have lower buffer height than some Association kits, I'd noticed). It certainly also feels to me that there is appreciably less daylight between bogie and chassis.

 

I imagine with the springs, I could probably take the tabs down a bit further, like I'd originally planned - there is still a tiny bit of of compression when I press on the roof.  But I think I've reached a happy medium. If it's not at the point where the worm mesh is setting the height, it can't be far off! 

 

Justin

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Hi Justin, 

 

Thats looking good; certainly dropping it down is a marked improvement. I’m looking forward to seeing Dailuaine in full early-70s mode, I think it’ll look very at home.

 

I had a look at mine this evening and the normal approach for the Hymek and the 22 wouldn’t work as you suggested, there’s just not enough chassis block for the springs to make contact with and they would end up somewhere in the gear tower. For mine, I’ve nipped the paddles at the corner of the chassis block so they were flush with the chassis block. 


4F59F66A-D585-4154-A1BA-00AB781BC36B.jpeg.b285b846d29c25beff6601ccab770ff4.jpeg

 

I’ve then added the slightest of ‘humps’ in the middle so the paddle is not inconstancy with the bogie upright. 

 

B4C760B5-D438-47E4-99C0-9CD622B1DBE2.jpeg.600d6e4642749349cd172d1c541bb126.jpeg

 

The spring on the bogie upright then makes the electrical contact and allows for a little height tweaking. 

 

21F32C16-F1E3-44FB-8D09-13EA17C54CA1.jpeg.969e7430e65e0b97b80818f1e3451040.jpeg

 

It seems to have worked, my Clayton is currently trundling around my Unitrack circle without much fuss. Assuming it’s all fine at the weekend then I’ll solder the springs in place. 

 

Height-wise, I’d call it close enough with this Farish Mk.1. 

 

5DBF5BF6-7194-4088-8A05-B879944D5111.jpeg.9a3d1a723aae05c23099d605fc67b9a0.jpeg

 

For reference and as promised, here’s the what I do for the Dapol 22s and Hymeks. It’s pretty basic but solves the problem well. 

 

D099169D-7F3E-4BC5-868D-F12345105166.jpeg.deaed50514693a8e418e4a2302d4acda.jpeg

 

Cheers,

Pix

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Way back on page 5 you have a photo of some (I think) Mathieson  3 link style couplers on your mineral wagons. Be interested to know if these are still in use and whether anything like them is still available, assuming a positive answer to the first part!

 

cheers

John

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Hi John,

 

I've got some that are in use on Parkend to make up 2-3 wagon 'clusters' with DG's on the outer vehicles. They're very nice and it's quite pleasing to take up the slack when hauling a train of them. My only criticism is they're a permanent coupling so a long rake would be a big of a pain to handle; if I ever get around to building the 'mainline' layout I sometimes threaten to build then I would probably find a way of mounting them with a magnet so they could be separated.

 

I don't think there's anything available now - I bought a big bundle from the chap behind Mathieson Models which remain unused so not really been in the market for them. I seem to recall someone on here (or perhaps the VAG) has been making some 2mm 3-links so it may be worth checking with them.

 

Cheers,

Steve

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1 hour ago, Pixie said:

I seem to recall someone on here (or perhaps the VAG) has been making some 2mm 3-links so it may be worth checking with them.

Not sure if you're referring to me, Steve.

 

I make my cosmetic) ones by winding annealed 10thou p/b wire around a former filed to 2mm wide from a piece of 10thou steel strip, squeezing the coils against the flat side as i go.  The individual coils are then cut off with a strong craft knife (Stanley).   2 are threaded together, the third threaded onto the hook and then the other two threaded onto it.  No need to paint or blacken as the p/b wire tarnishes to a dark brown.

Seen here on some mineral wagons.

1877144419_Dixonsbogie.JPG.8d7d88f04f97eabd8033055498aab04f.JPG

 

The 7ton 'bogie' on the left has shorter middle links made on a similar jig.  The two 'Dixon's are semi permanently coupled together with A/Js at either end.

 

Jim

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I make my cosmetic 3 links in a very similar way to Jim, but I use 0.25mm gunmetal coloured copper craft wire.

You can by a reel of over 1000m here; https://www.wires.co.uk/acatalog/craft-col-0250.html

 

In the photo below, the couplings hanging down from the Gannet hopper have been caught in the overspray from the black paint. The coupling between the Gannet and Grampus is in its natural gunmetal finish. It looks almost identical to Jim's tarnished phosphor bronze.

109469470_gannetgrampus.jpg.678506fb360784fb5b95b191789c5263.jpg

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Hi pixie

Great work on the clayton, always enjoy seeing someone improve RTR stuff like your clayton mods, many people are happy to accept things as they come and that's fair enough but I love seeing modifications.

 

Can I ask a few things on your Clayton mods if you don't mind.

 

Do you take the glazing out to paint the edges? I can see that the interior shelf is an easy candidate for painting but did you do all sides of all glazing. Yours looks much better to my eye and I'd love to replicate your steps.

 

Secondly on the spring mod, I saw it mentioned earlier and i think I can see the remnants of the vertical pickup on the bogie side. Do you just trim this down to a level below where the springs will reach? It looks like the pictures includes whats left but just obviously blacked out by the looks.

 

As I say great work, much appreciated.

 

 

 

 

Thanks in advance

MHB

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Hi MHB,

 

The Clayton glazing pushed straight out, it made a nice change not to have to fight with heavily glued in glazing. The main edge you want to paint/cover is the edge that’s an interference fit with the

body so it’s important to remove it. 
 

The vertical uprights are in unchanged, just painted black. I didn’t remove any material from them or trim them at all. 

I hope this helps, please let me know if I can assist any further. 
 

Meanwhile on my workbench, things have turned very Southern. I’ve had a hankering to model some early 2000s SWT EMUs for a while so I’ve been busy in CAD. So far I’ve finished the 4-CIG, 4-BIG and 4-VEP.
 

EAA2684D-399B-4EFE-A4DC-EB3F4555CE0C.jpeg.c7fd1aecbb4fb28ba8d568c874eb8fa0.jpeg

 

E25A1476-A677-46F6-AD67-C233F91E4CD4.jpeg.d85757b94615537c955a88746929dcda.jpeg

 

And a few oddities to as space fillers. 
 

EF92AECB-986F-4001-B385-536759C41D5C.jpeg.ab5df24831dcd645dff797ce51cacb91.jpeg

 

2146BF81-99EA-4B81-A8C2-AAC52089514F.jpeg.733b0e0e360f1555f11140aaf36723f6.jpeg

I think the entire world maybe drawing etches at the moment, PPD are quoting up to 6 weeks lead time!

 

Cheers,

Pix

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58 minutes ago, Pixie said:

I think the entire world maybe drawing etches at the moment, PPD are quoting up to 6 weeks lead time!

I think they are working at reduced capacity due to Covid restrictions.  I was quoted that delivery time on 29th June and the etches arrived on 26th August.  They were shut down for a spell at the start of lockdown, so are probably still a good bit behind.

 

Jim

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1 hour ago, Pixie said:

Hi MHB,

 

The Clayton glazing pushed straight out, it made a nice change not to have to fight with heavily glued in glazing. The main edge you want to paint/cover is the edge that’s an interference fit with the

body so it’s important to remove it. 
 

The vertical uprights are in unchanged, just painted black. I didn’t remove any material from them or trim them at all. 

I hope this helps, please let me know if I can assist any further. 

 

 

Cheers,

Pix

Hi Pixie

 Not your fault but more a word of warning, my glazing was heavily glued and did not come out smoothly at all. Mines was a small warning panel green example so wondering if it was a different person from a different part of the line. 

I don't regret it but I now need to hope the EFE parts dept is up and running already

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