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The Derby Line, Four Track LNER J6


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I'm tackling the valve gear and finding irritating things. The weighshaft is a sleeve into which the right hand and left hand stub shafts fit ( my design ), but with the weighshaft in place the screws to secure the motion bracket cannot be reached, so I drilled and tapped for 2 12 BA screws in each. Then the radius rods seemed slightly short, and the valve spindels were hanging out of the backs of the guides.So I cheated and drilled a pivot point further back, with a false 'pin' on the visible side. Various people have told me there is a problem with the eccentric rod - that will be next....

 

 

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I think I finally worked out why folks have had problems with the left hand eccentric rod on this 9F kit. The pivot point on the motion bracket casting is in a different position to that on the drivers side. Both castings seem to have errors. The drivers side should not be so recessed below the weighshaft - this makes the lightening hole far to small. The fireman's side doesn't look deep enough in the area of the lightening holes. I considered Ragstone ones - but it would mean more back tracking and retro fitting. I've done a cut and shut job on the right hand eccentric rods to shorten them a couple of millimetres.

 

 

 

 

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And I should have said right hand eccentric - that's what toothache and headache do for you. Despite that I have pressed on today, snow outside and storm approaching...

 

I can't get on with some of these one piece fold ups, I couldn't get a clean fold, or the front panel in the right place at the top of the side piece. So I broke them off and cleaned up. It was a lot easier to gettem in the right place then. I also cut out the holes for the filler access on the mechanical lubricators, it just looked blanked off as a half etch.

 

 

 

 

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The running plate is supported by a hefty casting, I didn't want to use all of this as in places it made the running plate look to solid, so I cut off each end and used bullhead rail as re-inforcement. It also makes it easier to pass pipes etc through.

The boilers were interesting, the one for 92031 bought who knows how many years ago needed hardly any cleaning up, that for 92069, about 5 years old and 92204's fairly new, needed flash cutting off with a hacksaw... Moral - buy a kit when it is introduced, when the moulds are in good condition.

 And at last we have a line up, propped up with bits of wood and plastic, but you get the idea...

 

 

 

 

 

 

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92204 takes shape, although not seeming very different from the previous photos, the boilers have been drilled and as many item fitted as possible before attaching to the running plate. As usual BR Standard cabs are tricky and all three locos needed careful fettling of the firebox end of the boiler to ensure the cab fits tidily and is level. There is still some work to do before permanently attaching the cab. Most of the items cannot be soldered from the inside of the boiler as the spigots are too short - or the boiler is too thick! So I've had to resort to epoxy. I feel I'm getting somewhere now, although ther is a long way to go yet.

The roller bearing covers have arrived from Ragstone, so I can put on the eccentric rods when I return to the chassis.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've had 5 days in bed with flu since the Bristol show, but I had spent time mulling over the DJH motion brackets. I wasn't fully happy with the castings as they didn't quite represent the prototype fully in that the main bearings were too inboard and the distinctive triangular hole on the drivers side was far too small. The Ragstone ones are crisper castings, although the bearing bosses seem slightly large. So 92031 was selected for conversion. It was a fiddle to make them removable, and the screw mechanism seems a bit low, but the overall effect is far better than before.

 

 

 

 

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In the end it's all compromise, maybe the running plate is a shade high, but I couldn't get both Ragstone castings to fit and look right. The bracket on the firemans side should sit well down between the wheels. So I ended up leaving the weighshaft at the original height setting  and using the DJH casting on that side. The Ragstone one looked better but sat too high, and I didn't want to start carving up castings in decreasing circles of despair.. The drivers side captures the beefiness of the bracket and also reaches up closer to the running plate.

The cab roofs are now on - they were a battle as they were a very tight fit.

 

 

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It'll be interesting to see what MOK make of the 9F's, as I've had an enquiry for a commission for the DJH one. I'm thinking some delaying tactics are needed until I get a look at the MOK one.

Your hard work is certainly paying off with these.

 

Simon

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Good idea Simon! The great thing about RmWeb is the ideas that you can find, so I thought that Simon ( Hobbyhorse ) came up with a great way to make the deflectors removable. I used some angle section and drilled and tapped it. Each deflector consists of 23 parts, so it was a days work to make them all up and fit them.

 

 

 

 

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Well I can think of twelve or thirteen parts per defector but not twenty three !!

Ok let's have a go!

 

  1. Main deflector plate
  2. Hand rail knob
  3. Ditto
  4. Ditto
  5. Handrail long
  6. Handrail short
  7. Step 1
  8. Step 2
  9. Fixing bracket top
  10. Fixing bracket middle
  11. fixing bracket bottom
  12. support bracket
  13. fixing screw 1
  14. fixing screw 2
  15. spaceship insignia
  16. shield control
  17. phasors
  18. photon torpedoes
  19. tractor beam
  20. teleportor
  21. warp drive
  22. Impulse drive
  23. thrusters.

 

I knew I'd get there in the end! Beam me up Scotty..................!

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Anyway, I teased about the deflectors, its 15 parts in each, including the retaining screws...!

 

The time has now come to finish the loco's individually, so its 92204 first and on to my favourite bit, the pipework. The valves and injectors are Ragstone, replacing the DJH white metal items which I just could not get along with. Ragstone also supply a set of rather nice pipe castings that include the square pipe unions. That saves a lot of time so this chassis is pretty well ready for painting.

 

 

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