Dave Holt Posted October 23, 2019 Share Posted October 23, 2019 Can't be a WD - the eccentric rod has a roller bearing at the return crank. The expansion link support is wrong for an 8F. Something Eastern, perhaps? Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted October 24, 2019 Share Posted October 24, 2019 An O1 I think. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted October 24, 2019 Author Share Posted October 24, 2019 Well done David! It's nice to get the laminated rods out of the way at an early stage, and they are used to set the axle spacings on the Hobby Horse chassis jig. I've lost one of my strong springs to hold the hornblocks in place so I have to do them in stages! I must save up for another spring... I usually make up the rods with 188 degree solder. It's worth taking the time to file off the cusps and polish them up with emery sticks after soldering. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted October 29, 2019 Author Share Posted October 29, 2019 The etched brake adjuster was a bit two dimensional, so I cut the ends off and grafted them on to some brass bar with slots cut in the ends. You only see it in silhouette, but it looks better to me. Everything else is coming along nicely, as usual, some tidying up to do. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Major Posted October 29, 2019 Share Posted October 29, 2019 I agree that replacing the etched brake adjuster with bar etc is a good move. Although, as you say, we only see the adjuster in relief, our two eyes and brain give a 3D perspective so if it is flat it will look flat. Beautiful work. Ian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted October 30, 2019 Author Share Posted October 30, 2019 Thank Ian There are some tidy castings that make up the cylinders. The covers come over wide and the instructions advise to trim afterwards. I prefer to cut them as close to the right size as possible. That ensures that the cylinders are actually the right size. Getting the slide bars in the right position took a little patience. I put in the glands first, then used the piston rod to ensure the made up assembly put the slidebars in the right position. - the hole to locate them is... generous. I'll put on the drain cock linkage once I see how the assembly fits to the running plate. 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted October 30, 2019 Share Posted October 30, 2019 41 minutes ago, dibateg said: Thank Ian There are some tidy castings that make up the cylinders. The covers come over wide and the instructions advise to trim afterwards. I prefer to cut them as close to the right size as possible. That ensures that the cylinders are actually the right size. Getting the slide bars in the right position took a little patience. I put in the glands first, then used the piston rod to ensure the made up assembly put the slidebars in the right position. - the hole to locate them is... generous. I'll put on the drain cock linkage once I see how the assembly fits to the running plate. Beautifully assembled cylinders. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted November 2, 2019 Author Share Posted November 2, 2019 Thanks Ken! I'm on to the body now, and there is something quite therapeutic about pressing out all those rivets, I use the GW model tool. The windows surrounds should be a bit more rounded, but I couldn't think of a way of doing it neatly. There is an etch for the cab edge beading, but I replaced that with half round brass wire. I made sure I had a stock of these when I heard that HobbyHorse was going to stop trading. Enough for my remaining kits in the cupboard... Assembling the cab on to the running plate. To start with, I just tacked the cab parts into position, checking for square in all directions, and I did take them off again a couple of times before committing to seam solder the joints. My rollers struggled ( well me really ) with the boiler - it was quite springy and I couldn't get the middle to come in. So I had to resort to various bars as well as brute force! The instructions say to anneal the lower edge for the firebox, which I did. I think it would have been impossible otherwise, although I generally prefer to form without annealing if possible. I marked a line at the centre of the reverse curve for the firebox to give an idea where the bending bar should go.. It was a bit of a fight and in the end I resorted to all my bending tools, from top to bottom, skirting board ( to pull out the lower firebox edge for starters- originally made for putting the tumblehome in 4mm coach sides ), aluminium bar, for applying pressure, laser printer roller - used inside the boiler to pull in the bits that weren't round enough, more skirting board - convex curves are pressed in to the convex depression using, the ex printer silver steel bar, and finally the home made folding bars... What didn't help was that it seemed the front firebox former is too narrow by about 4mm. That confused me for a bit! Putting the reverse curve into the lower firebox. 3 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted November 2, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 2, 2019 On 30/10/2019 at 22:02, jazz said: Beautifully assembled cylinders. Along with everything else! Mike. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coal Tank Posted November 3, 2019 Share Posted November 3, 2019 Superb work as usual John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted November 4, 2019 Share Posted November 4, 2019 On 02/11/2019 at 08:33, dibateg said: Putting the reverse curve into the lower firebox. That's ingenious, but gives the impression of the fixings on the jig bar going through the firebox wrapper. Presumably the wrapper is just held on its edge by a millimetre or two? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted November 4, 2019 Author Share Posted November 4, 2019 Thanks Mike, John Yes - its hard up against the clamping screws... and the bottom edge that projects below the running plate is trimmed off after assembly. Regards Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted November 7, 2019 Author Share Posted November 7, 2019 It's not perfect, but boiler bands and handrail knobs added. I try and do as much work on the boiler as I can before it goes on to the running plate and cab. The running plate assembles nicely up on a cradle. Once the boiler is permanently attached to the running plate, the cradle is cut away with a slitting disk. Plonked on the frames, it starts to look like an O1. I'm enjoying building an LNER engine at last... 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted November 7, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 7, 2019 1 hour ago, dibateg said: It's not perfect, I would be absolutely delirious to achieve such a degree of imperfection! Mike. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted November 7, 2019 Author Share Posted November 7, 2019 I'm picky Mike! There not many big pipes that are visible on this loco, but there are plenty of small ones. I drilled out all the castings 0.5mm and used a mixture of 0.3 and 0.4mm copper wire. The atomisers came with cast pipes, but I felt they were a little over size, so I cut them off and drilled them out for the pipes. The drain cock linkage was representational, so I found a nice little etch with some tiny cranks on in the spares box, so they came in handy. I struggled with the full thickness etched sand guards, I ended up scratching them up from some thinner material. One pipe needs poking into it's hole in the steam pipe cover. Sorting out these small details has soaked up a lot of time! The safety valves in the kit lacked the big base with bolts that are typical of these boilers, I found a suitable pair in the spares box. The whistle is a very nice little casting. Next job is to tackle the slidebar bracket, and I think I'll stick the wheels on and get it going. 7 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Major Posted November 7, 2019 Share Posted November 7, 2019 Very nice indeed. The pipework is most impressive. I wish I could match it. One can but dream! Ian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted November 7, 2019 Share Posted November 7, 2019 I wish I had a spares box like some modellers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 8, 2019 Share Posted November 8, 2019 5 hours ago, JeffP said: I wish I had a spares box like some modellers The more models you build the greater selection of spares you get. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted November 8, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 8, 2019 4 hours ago, N15class said: The more models you build the greater selection of spares you get. Most of us have loads of spares. We just wont know until we actually finish something! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted November 8, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 8, 2019 The difficult bit is remembering what "spares" you have - and where they are...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted November 8, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 8, 2019 48 minutes ago, Michael Edge said: The difficult bit is remembering what "spares" you have - and where they are...... All of mine are somewhere "safe". Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 8, 2019 Share Posted November 8, 2019 I normally find the appropriate one just after scratch building a part that's lost or not included. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted November 8, 2019 Share Posted November 8, 2019 I keep all my many spares in various boxes sorted into what the the spares cover. ie buffers, couplings etc. - Body detail castings. - Chassis pasts and so on. I currently have six boxes on the go. Then there are the spare etches which are kept in two large card boxes from kits. (7mm size from the huge DJH boxes.) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted November 9, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 9, 2019 13 hours ago, jazz said: I keep all my many spares in various boxes sorted into what the the spares cover. ie buffers, couplings etc. - Body detail castings. - Chassis pasts and so on. I currently have six boxes on the go. Then there are the spare etches which are kept in two large card boxes from kits. (7mm size from the huge DJH boxes.) I do that as well but after 40+ years of full time model building work I have rather more boxes than that. I do frequently find the appropriate part just after I have made another one though.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted November 9, 2019 Share Posted November 9, 2019 31 minutes ago, Michael Edge said: I do that as well but after 40+ years of full time model building work I have rather more boxes than that. I do frequently find the appropriate part just after I have made another one though.... I would have many more after over 50 years modelling but I do have a big sort out every two years or so. Working on the theory if it's been sat there too long it goes in the bin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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