Jump to content
 

The Derby Line, Four Track LNER J6


dibateg
 Share

Recommended Posts

Thanks Herbert. Apologies for the poor photos as well - I couldn't get my eye in this morning, must do better. And I could'nt delet the second caoch pic. Took a guess on the 6 wheeler interior in the end.

 

Cheers

Link to post
Share on other sites

I wouldn't worry about changing it. At least I know the name of the thread and can have a look, from time to time, at some really first class modelling. By the way, did you manage to find details of the interior of the 6 wheeeler?

 

It's quite easy to do - you need to open the first entry on the thread using the 'full editor'. The boxes at the top are then available to edit.

 

Adam

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Things have not been quiet on the Derby Line, with background electrical work taking place for Heyside. I have been working on a JLTRT 4F, which is now awaiting running in trials. I hope to write it up for one of the Magazines.

post-6972-027238500 1287501925_thumb.jpg

 

Latest on the stocks are two Slaters BR brake vans. One will be BR version, the other an LNER one with the follwoing detail differences from the BR standard:-

Spoked wheels

Vacuum Cylinder

No windows in the cabin door

Different lamp iron arrangements

Short steps

No trussing under the solebar

Among other things!

 

Just out of interest if anyone else has one of these to build. I found that I had to just tack the underframe and solebar parts in place at the centre with solvent to make sure everything, including buffer beams was square. Once checked - everything could be cemented in place. I also found it was best to put the cabin sides in place and the fettle the end mouldings to fit. A certain amount of carving had to take place in the chamfered joins at the top and bottom. Once there is a tidy fit the end can be cemented in place.

post-6972-058650400 1287502011_thumb.jpg

 

More to follow between house renovations...

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Tony,

 

The 4F is looking really good. The boiler looks a bit incongruous in it's raw state (resin I presume) but will look great once it's painted, well up to your usual, excellent, standards.

 

BTW, how are you getting on with the Fairbairn? I haven't seen much mention of it for a while.

 

Rob :rolleyes:

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Rob -

 

the Fairburn is currently awaiting parts, Dikitriki has led the way in working out what to do with the motion. So once they arrive, work will recommence...

 

In the meantime I'm building wagons to complete trains...

 

Regards

 

Tony

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

The brake vans progress, although I seems to be making more cock-ups than usual - how did I get the underframe the wrong way up? I seemd to have resolved that and the differences between early LNER and BR vehicles are becoming more apparent. The LNER van has a vac cylinder and open frame 'W' irons. The new solid door has also been fitted.

 

post-6972-064770300 1288368711_thumb.jpg

 

More differences underneath, I should have modified the 'W' irons before putting them on! Some bits I havn't bothered putting underneath as they won't be seen, but the visible stuff is there...

 

post-6972-000620100 1288368796_thumb.jpg

 

I havn't worked out how to represent the BR axleboxes on the later vehicle yet, but I am enjoying the kits.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I've been quite busy with house and garage, but all this snow has curtailed outside activities over the past month, so I've finished the brake vans as well as an SR one, 3 containers, Parkside GW conflat, re-motored my Chowbent Black 5, finished a Hopper, finished Parkside/Freightman LMS van and am now well on with 2 Sidelines LMS coaches to complete the 4 coach rake. I'll be spending most of 2011 painting... Spot the differences.:-

post-6972-078148600 1292769053_thumb.jpg

Part of the engineers train makes an appearance at Hollowbeck Shed during the L&Y DCC show at Rawtenstall:-

post-6972-013053400 1292769240_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been quite busy with house and garage, but all this snow has curtailed outside activities over the past month, so I've finished the brake vans as well as an SR one, 3 containers, Parkside GW conflat, re-motored my Chowbent Black 5, finished a Hopper, finished Parkside/Freightman LMS van and am now well on with 2 Sidelines LMS coaches to complete the 4 coach rake. I'll be spending most of 2011 painting... Spot the differences.:-

[

Very nice Tony, well up to your usual standards. The brake vans look great (a BR standard and an ex LNER one by the looks of it) which have only served to make me feel guilty, as I haven't done much modelling recently.

 

Rob

Link to post
Share on other sites

I knew I's seen someone doing this brake van conversion on here somewhere and typically now I find it after I've started mine. If you haven't painted them, see my workbench thread for some far too anorakish discussion on rainstrips and the chimney assembly. I can only think the search didn't bring it up because I had it in my mind it was 4mm and searched for Dapol instead of Slaters.

 

Nice work, though. I do think it's a conversion worth doing as the sum of a lot of small changes makes a vehicle which ends up looking very different from the original.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Jonathan -

I remember looking for your thread when I started my brake vans, but couldn't find it again! Good point about the rainstrips, I will peruse the various resources that I have to hand...

 

I don't think I will be painting until it gets warmer next year..

 

Regards

 

Tony

Link to post
Share on other sites

Happy New Year to all, and lets make 2011 another great modelling year!

 

Those LMS coaches are now completed ready for painting, I shall have to dig them out of their box under the bed in the guest room for some photos.

 

I decided to start 2011 with a big project, and I came into posession of an Anchorage K3 kit recently. 7mm K3's are thin on the ground, with the 20 year old Anchorage kit ( and I heard only 50 were made ) and the Ace kit, of which I have no knowledge. One of my mates has a built up Anchorage K3, which looks excellent, but having some drawings to hand I hope to improve on the old kit.

 

I never trust drawing implicitly, but use them as a guide in conjunction with photos.

 

The frames lack height, so I have added strips of brass to build them up, and also filled in the lightening holes between 1st and second drivers, and replaced them with a single round hole - more apparent in the photographs. So far so good. The visible part of firebox does not come low enough in the large frame cut out, that will need addressing. There is also something wrong at the front end, making the buffer beam to low, so that is the next job to tackle.

 

Lots of patches and joins but that wont show after final filling and with all the wheels and stuff in the way!

post-6972-0-65779200-1293801438_thumb.jpg

 

The cab is close, maybe a mill or so too low, but I think I may well have to live with that..

post-6972-0-24198800-1293801507_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Tony,

 

Dikitriki pointed me in your direction from another forum that can't be named when I saw some footage of a K3 on Heyside. Great timing to see that you're just starting although unfortunately for me it seems that the kits are as rare as rocking horse poo!! In any case I will enjoy following the build and look forward to seeing the finished article. Oh and if you see any more kits knocking about please let me know :D . i'll keep watching for inspiration,

 

Many thanks Mick

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Mick, yes the K3 is rare, I've only seen 2 Anchorage ones turn up in the 3 years I was looking for one on E-bay, or the Guild site, one of which I managed to buy!

 

JB, there is the Ace one, but I don't know of any others, I did suggest it to DJH...Someone will probably bring out a super kit when I finish this!

 

On with the frames and I have cut out and replaced the visible part of the firebox, although the agle looks a little steep, I might have to tweak that. The other problem is that the square cut out is too deep! I also added the forward circular lightening holes. It looks like the ABC unit will fit nicely..

I don't think I'll use the brass rod frame spacers that come with the kit - yesterdays technology, and have been cutting out new ones from Nickle-silver sheet.

post-6972-0-04981100-1294226756_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Larry - praise indeed from an absolute master. I check your your thread often, when I first saw your coaches I thought they were 'O' gauge!

I have to repay the compliment, your coaches on RMweb have been inspirational, thanks for sharing them with us.

 

The bogies - I put something good on the radio and just soldiered on through them, whilst observing the 10 inches of snow outside!

 

Regards

 

Tony

Link to post
Share on other sites

Happy New Year Rob, hows the new job?

 

Pressing on with the frames, I make my leading axles floating in Fourtrack hornblocks. Not the right or wrong way, just my prefferred way, keeping all the wheels in contact with the rails. The insides of those frames look somewhat patchy, maybe I should have just put in a whole sheet of 'underlay, rather than overlay!

 

Mrs Geary daintily demonstrates cutting out for the hornblocks with one of the best tools that Diktriki advised me to buy - a piercing saw. It is so much better than chain drilling, my old technique! It is also far better for cutting out pieces from sheet, I used to use shears, but they did distort large pieces, I only use them for trimming now.

post-6972-0-88669100-1294428732_thumb.jpg

 

 

There's more patches than the underside of my old Morris Minor! The cut outs for the hornblocks are smaller than on Jims original design - hence the half etched outline. Next thing is the spacers, I'm trying to plan ahead with this, but lets see how successful I am.

post-6972-0-83097200-1294428961_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

New job doesn't start 'til Monday, I'll keep you posted though.

 

Nice photos of progress so far, I particularly like the one of your good lady holding the piercing saw. In fact, it's occurred to me that your modelling has come on in leaps and bounds since you got married. I'm beginning to wonder if Mrs G isn't actually doing all the work and you're just claiming the credit for it!

 

Rob

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

The spacers have all been cut from scrap nickle etch and the frames assembled using a length of 3/16th silver steel rod through the rear axle bearings on a sheet of plate glass to try and get everything square. The coupling rods were made up and used with my Four Track alignment axles to position the hornblocks.

post-6972-0-37854800-1295430500_thumb.jpg

 

There are errors in the cab etch, the sweep down should not start at the leading edge of the cab, it should begin about 9 inches back. So the lower edges were reprofiled, and that gives a steeper incline which looks better. The running plate flange had to be re-profiled ( bent!) to follow the drawing as closely as I could. It's possible to bend this brass srtip in the vertical plane without too much distortion. The rear cab window frame was also filed out, as they are nearly always open.

post-6972-0-85912100-1295430917_thumb.jpg

 

The whole of the front end running plate in the kit is wrong, the depth is too short, that in the kit being about 1'5", wheras it should be in the region of 2'. I seem to spend my evenings in front of the fire perusing Yeadons and other books for k3 details. So a the whole of the front end is fabricated from scratch, trying to keep everything square as I go. The new front frame extensions are not soldered in yet, so still more to do to add strength and finish off the buffer beam. Then lots of tidying and checking before adding the boiler I think! Curiosly, the frames at the front seem to low, but the body etches as supplied seem right, anyway a measure on the plate glass show the front running plate to be the same height as the rear of the cab - phew! I'm gonna do an MOK kit next!

post-6972-0-04717700-1295431476_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Tony,

 

The K3 is coming on really well and the work you're putting in to get it right is really paying off, it's a shame the kit is so in accurate really. Still watching and enjoying the build, keep up the good work,

 

Best reagrds Mick

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

The boiler has been rolled and I eneded up with the same problem as Adrian - a flat at the bottom. Fortunately, the bottom of the boiler is pretty hidden below the running plate on this one. Boiler bands are Slaters phosphor bronze strip. I picke dthat up from someone else on RMweb, Christain perhaps?

 

More photo browsing indicates that on earlier K3s, the sweep in the running plate seems to start closer to the cab front than later ones, but maybe I'm completely wrong on this.

 

With the saddle reduced in height and ignoring the etched location line on the front of the cab the boiler is temporarily positioned for fit. The challenge is to get it parallel with the running plate. The cab is about 1 - 1.5mm to low, but I think it looks ok. It is a massive boiler, the etching doesn't conform to diagram 96 or 96A, so some of the features have been relocated.

post-6972-0-77664500-1296211633_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...