The Derby Line, Four Track LNER J6

[3 link]

Hi Tony,

 

The bogie bolster has turned out well, and it has reminded me to try and source some nickel sprung buffers for the one's I have built. I have a couple of bogie bolster C's and the larger bogie bolster A  from Jim, and apart from the white metal buffers his kits are great.

 

It looks like you have also replaced the split pins for hand rail knobs on the tie rings fitted to the solebars, and from what I remember my bending bars had a good workout, especially on the bolster A.

 

I could do with a couple more really as I hope to form part of a p/way train I have planned  .

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

[LaScala]

No problem Peter - Happy New Year too - to you and to my thread readers!

 

Getting hold of ABS seems to be pretty difficult. I sent several orders to the address and never heard anything and eventually gave up. So I just pick up s/h kits at shows now. Adrian does attend shows, but it seems to be pot luck in what is available on the stand... A quick scan of the Guild traders website doesn't even list ABS!

 

Sorry I couldnt be much more help.

 

Regards

 

Tony

Amazingly, Adrian is a member of this parish which initially gave me hope, but does not answer PM's either at least in my experience.  I would buy ABS stuff at the drop of a hat if I could find him!  (I'm in Australia so don't attend shows)

 

His RMW name is logically enough adrianbs

Edited February 15, 2013 by LaScala

[dibateg]

Hello Martyn - thanks - I did use the split pins, but squeezed them right down...I can't remember where the buffers came from I'm afraid, they come from the accumulation of bits and pieces you get after years of kit building...

 

LaScala - do you have an 'agent' in the Uk that can pick stuff up for you at shows?

[dibateg]

The 2p has passed its running tests and is now ready to paint:-

 

[dibateg]

Back to 4mm scale for a day or so to make the signals for Geoff Taylors Penmaenpool. Here is the distinctive bracket signal that is opposite the hotel ( for those familiar with the location). With one of the 4 single posts alongside. I need to check for positioning, then add the cranks and tidy up. The ghastly weather has kept me inside and boosted the progress of several projects.

 

I used to be able to manage forming tumblehomes in 4mm scale with no problem. 7mm scale is another story. I managed to write off a set of sides, as the brass is a heavier gauge in this scale and I found it was like trying to bend a spring! Jonathan Matthews came to the rescue with this technique:- The the sides are clamped between a piece of 2x1 and skirting board in the workmate. Starting with just a little projecting the side can then be bent over the curve in the skirting board . This is done in steps - 2-3mm projecting more each time. This results in an over formed tumblehome. This can then be brought back to the desired curve to match the etched end by pressing down with fingers and working along the side with the upper part of the side overhanging the edge of the workmate, so that only the tumblehome receives pressure.
Then emery sticks of reducing grades are used to reduce the fold marks, ending up with a polish with wet & dry.

 

Once finished, and polished with 1000 grade, the sides look a lot better. I won't say these are perfect, but at least I have found a way to do it and am refining my technique... I tend to build in batches, and I remembered that I had built a whole set of LMS bogies a few years ago, so decided to include the 50' LMS brake in this curent project. So work on detailing the sides will now take place whilst I look out on the snow covered garden..

Edited March 26, 2013 by dibateg

[JeffP]

Wouldn't rolling bars be easier?

[dibateg]

I've not got any lomg enough Jeff - and I think they would put too much curve into the whole coach side as the distance between the rollers exceeds the depth of the tumblehome...

[JeffP]

OK...what about annealing it over a gas flame?

[dibateg]

Yes - tried that! - thats what wrote off the the first set of sides, they warped all over the place...

[dibateg]

 An early start after being unable to sleep allowed me to get the last jobs done on the Thompsons, so they are now ready for the paintshop:

Generally, that was modifying the buffer springs, relocating the dynamoes, adding the roof strips and general tidying up.
 

 

also this ex LMS full brake.
 

A typically rainy Welsh summer day at home on call allowed me to get stuck in on my next project. Two MOK Ivatt Class 4s. Not bad, delivery Saturday and contruction beginning Sunday! I spent the evening running through the excellent instructions and examining prototype information in the Irwell book.
Here's most of whats in the box:-
 

And here we go! Start with the chassis:-

And this far without using the soldering iron, the next step is to add the sanding valves :-
 

 

Edited August 6, 2013 by dibateg

[N15class]

I use a broom handle and a metal ruler, I lay the ruler on a flat surface and the coach side so the bottom is just on the ruler I place the broom handle just below the windows, push down an roll towards the ruler. Generally job done.

[The Nth Degree]

Is it just me or are the images not linked?

[dibateg]

Thanks Peter, I could'nt get that to work for me - fingers to weak I guess!

 

I forgot to post a pic of the 2P after painting. Still with a little finishing of required to the weathering:-

 

[dibateg]

@Nth Degree - The images might not be linked - I pasted a whole section in from somewhere else..

[dibateg]

I loaded the pics seperately, hopefully they can be seen now!

[The Nth Degree]

Those MOK etches look amazing. Genius method of construction too.

[dibateg]

As far as I'm concerned MOK are the ultimate kits in 7mm scale. The 8F was an absolute pleasure to build, I've a feeling the Ivatt kit will surpass that, no white metal, excellent brass castings and slot and tab construction.

[Dan Randall]

That Ivatt kit just oozes quality - I especially like the packaging for the castings. I must have one, though building it in S7 might be a bit trickier....

 

 

Regards

 

Dan

[dibateg]

So an update on where I am up to, the frames are assembled using slot and tab, so everything can be assembled before soldering. This view is post soldering with the tabs ground off:-

 

Then the overlays are seam soldered on and cleaning up is next:-

 

The whole front section is a sub assembly:-

 

 

I am going through cycles of reading instructions, cutting out and cleaning up parts, assembly, soldering, wash, clean up. Then on to the next phase of construction. This is looking like the best kit I have ever done.

[dibateg]

So yesterday between sleeps, I managed to finish the detailing on the front platform assemblies, on to the cab today I hope. Up to now it's all been sub assemblies. Now its just beginning to look like something significant:-

 

I made a decision on the numbers, 43155 and 43156, both Colwick engines, both unlined, grimy stained and unglamorous! Both had AWS, so will need all that pesky extra piping...

[dibateg]

I spent yesterday rolling the boilers and shaping up the fireboxes. Even though I use a set of GW rollers, it's the one weak point in my constructional skills It just takes patience, careful work and no rushing. I did make a couple of tiny errors - not checking that the boiler edges were fully aligned before soldering up for one thing, but it was only fractional.  I made the same mistake on the 8F, anyway that is fixed now. Apologies for the rough workshop shots taken during construction, the problem is I am taking them into the light..

 

The firebox wrapper is thin - but that allows it to be shape easily to fit the transition ring casting. The only way to do this is to solder from the outside to ensure it is fully seated. One I prepared earlier is in the background.

[JeffP]

I looked on the MOK site, I couldn't find this kit, only one for a 76000 kit? Or is it me?

[ngtrains.com]

Jeff

its you!

Try the new releases tab on the web site  http://www.modernoutline.co.uk/modern_outline_002.htm

[Mark C]

I spent yesterday rolling the boilers and shaping up the fireboxes. Even though I use a set of GW rollers, it's the one weak point in my constructional skills It just takes patience, careful work and no rushing. I did make a couple of tiny errors - not checking that the boiler edges were fully aligned before soldering up for one thing, but it was only fractional.  I made the same mistake on the 8F, anyway that is fixed now. Apologies for the rough workshop shots taken during construction, the problem is I am taking them into the light..

P1010434.JPG

 

The firebox wrapper is thin - but that allows it to be shape easily to fit the transition ring casting. The only way to do this is to solder from the outside to ensure it is fully seated. One I prepared earlier is in the background.

P1010438.JPG

Hello

 

I'm watching your builds with great interest - I have just taken delivery of one of these kits and am finding my way through the mass of components.  What size GW Models' rollers did you use?  I have a 6 inch set - will they be big enough?

 

Many thanks

Mark

[3 link]

Hello

 

I'm watching your builds with great interest - I have just taken delivery of one of these kits and am finding my way through the mass of components.  What size GW Models' rollers did you use?  I have a 6 inch set - will they be big enough?

 

Many thanks

Mark

 

 

In one word, yes.

 

Martyn.