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16t minerals


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I found this topic and thought it would be fun to add my three 16t wagons.

 

First is my O gauge one, weathered with simple browns and brush strokes.

Second is my OO gauge one, more heavily weathered with rust textures

and Thirdly my TT scale one, which I found in a box.

FCA6A7FB-A97C-48B1-A51E-2E6645698F3E.jpeg

Edited by PannierTanker14
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1 hour ago, timbowilts said:

Just came across this post and it begs the question, what is that vehicle behind the “man on a mission”?

Tim T

All packed up ready to move to Felin Foel

An ex LMS coach converted into something useful for departmental work?

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On 05/09/2019 at 16:50, Porcy Mane said:

 

10 hours ago, Clive Mortimore said:

An ex LMS coach converted into something useful for departmental work?

Possibly a D1905 BTK converted to a Staff and Tool Van. Several were done in the 1960s. 

 

Plenty of LMS departmentals listed here. http://lmsca.org.uk/lms-coaches/br-departmental-coach-list/

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What a fantastic piece of film! Thank you.  It is obvious that the Holbeck crane is well cared for and maintained.

It also answers a question I have been puzzling over as to the drivers position when operating crane.

 

Gordon A

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On 04/10/2019 at 23:37, Porcy Mane said:

Some top notch 16 tonners a the beginning of this video.

Hgh quality makes it  a great film for colour comparisons of loco & stock.

 

...

 

At about 1:13 in that file, you can see the 3rd mineral from the loco looks to have new, but rusty, lower panels let in to the sides. Screenshot:

 

352394031_ScreenShotfromvid.jpg.25e9f4a3b393c131962e5d305fda5ef6.jpg

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18 minutes ago, eastwestdivide said:

 

At about 1:13 in that file, you can see the 3rd mineral from the loco looks to have new, but rusty, lower panels let in to the sides. Screenshot:

 

352394031_ScreenShotfromvid.jpg.25e9f4a3b393c131962e5d305fda5ef6.jpg

A common repair on mineral wagons; when standing with a load of coal, the bottom welds would corrode, followed by the lower sides. In South-west Wales, it was common to plug the holes with straw, until the wagon could be stopped. Repairs were often carried out in the open air, with minimal facilities, hence the absence of paint. I have known the bodies of such wagons to part from the under-frame, when some one has tried to unload them with an electro-magnet. 

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Hi everyone,

 

Apologies for the delay in this post: a combination of Scaleforum and returning to work after the summer has resulted in little RMWeb time!

 

In a previous post, I shared how I created rusty steel mineral wagons using Ammo by Mig products. I purchased mine from Antics in Plymouth. 

 

Before I produced these vehicles, I watched the video below. The creator is a bloody genius! I watched this video several times one evening being completely enthralled by it. I then discovered the rest of his channel! Such inspiration!

 

 

Having watched Sergio's video, I selected two suitable victims: one was a Bachmann RTR wagon, the other a Parkside kit. 

IMG_2985.png.ea13da40aab6ac35d628dc4ec33d95e9.png

 

The first job was to remove the numbering from the wagons. Quick dip in thinners and a rub over with a cotton bud. I left the white stripe on the panel deliberately. I thought it would make life easier when applying the replacement transfer at a later date. 

 

I gave the two wagons a quick clean in warm water and then proceeded to spray Surface Tracks primer through my airbrush over the two bodies - 20PSI using a Neo by Iwata Airbrush. 

 

IMG_2986.png.a1373d2ae2f579bd8dde29c45238fe35.png

 

Ammo paints need to be applied very gradually, light, frequent passes are best. The paint has a slight texture - this is deliberate. The maker believes that paint should have a texture and he designed the range with military models (tanks, lorries etc.) in mind. I used a very small amount of acrylic thinners to help keep the paint flowing. It does have a tendency to dry at the airbrush tip but this can be avoided with a quick clean every few minutes with a bit of thinners on a piece of kitchen towel. 

 

IMG_2671.jpg.9d2231e5159473ac16fc616f0a556cdb.jpg

 

Once the body has had three coats, built up over an hour or so, I then dabbed rust effect colours on building up from darkest to lightest using a sponge. 

 

IMG_2672.jpg.5b0793146be12c2657af7022e5dabb4a.jpgIMG_2673.jpg.0a6411ca70d3b57ce22c7fe9c134c2c0.jpgIMG_2674.jpg.e7e31a806e75abbe7c4bb52a84473c61.jpgIMG_2989.png.948b97676527c53a2e13f46fc7658b0f.png

 

IMG_2991.png.1c0899b8189b0cc1bb4d19dd5f09d0f0.png

 

IMG_2992.png.55d8fef08a499336ecdd8ab471f3c5fc.png

 

After the bodies had dried overnight, I sprayed two light coats of Scratches Effects Mig-2010. This has a life of about 6 hours so once the chipping fluid has dried, you have to proceed quickly to the main body colour, building it up lightly but quickly. I used Hellblau (Mig-209) and Light Grey (Mig-231)  with a ratio of 3:1 with a tiny bit of acrylic thinner. 

 

IMG_2993.png.31e7283f8af5f992a822ef48151df88c.png

 

IMG_2994.png.70fefd98e58a3a6cb9db98d86495b509.png

 

IMG_2995.png.4c654cfb16c21c4a7adc64ff99f41098.png

 

IMG_2996.png.2e0c248ff7980e3ad69c810aeaaa7579.png

 

This is where the magic begins! 

 

Using a stiff brush and a cocktail stick, I then put a small amount of water over the bodies and then carefully 'chipped' the paint. I find this quite amazing! 

 

IMG_2997.png.8b52fc90710ade0552b415e3e6acc964.pngIMG_2998.png.3d2562f63f16ee6ffc8dba75f9e529aa.png

 

Having tried to replicate a couple of different wagons, I then allowed the bodies to dry over night. 

 

I then proceeded to 'thin' the paint in certain places using Tan for 3-Tone Camo (Mig 1510) it is very important to just use the fluid from this product, don't 'mix it' with the pigment in the jar. This effect is quite subtle; however, it adds a little more to the overall look.

 

IMG_2744.jpg.fd8eb51d9c115d9f72c7af3de3e55167.jpg

 

Lastly, Light Rust Wash (Mig 1004) and Streaking Effects (Mig 1204) were carefully 'streaked' down the side of the bodies. A small amount of Mig Enamel Thinner (2019) is used to blend it all together. 

 

IMG_2707.jpg.a374f5f51bc9534cac32d687cc2f53f5.jpg

 

IMG_2708.jpg.3b288eb3c4b391fe56c2c36d74782a33.jpg

 

Having left it to dry, I then experimented with Dark Wash (Mig 1008) and Engine Grime (Mig 1407).

 

IMG_2740.jpg.846b5c62bacb0c132b18fbf826589a62.jpgIMG_3002.png.56e4608db967bb5cc1d88a2a1f1e8cbb.png

 

I still need to weather the underframes and complete the detailing (coal dust/load etc.) but I do think they look quite convincing! I've completed 5 now, 3 were running on Balcombe last weekend and this pair are destined for Horrabridge. 

 

IMG_2741.jpg.fa5a77b8571fc54dd099daed40ca2791.jpgIMG_2742.jpg.4c83be0692db3450d02712baaf591bdf.jpgIMG_2743.jpg.7fe591296ceca3a3e8897cf5c5795921.jpg

 

I do recommend these products. They are different to use in comparison with enamels; however, I think military modelers have a lot to teach us railway modelers! 

 

I do hope this short guide is of use and please do comment or ask any questions. 

 

Best wishes,

 

Nick.

 

 

IMG_2660.jpg

IMG_3003.png

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2 hours ago, Brinkly said:

Hi everyone,

 

Apologies for the delay in this post: a combination of Scaleforum and returning to work after the summer has resulted in little RMWeb time!

 

In a previous post, I shared how I created rusty steel mineral wagons using Ammo by Mig products. I purchased mine from Antics in Plymouth. 

 

Before I produced these vehicles, I watched the video below. The creator is a bloody genius! I watched this video several times one evening being completely enthralled by it. I then discovered the rest of his channel! Such inspiration!

 

 

Having watched Sergio's video, I selected two suitable victims: one was a Bachmann RTR wagon, the other a Parkside kit. 

IMG_2985.png.ea13da40aab6ac35d628dc4ec33d95e9.png

 

The first job was to remove the numbering from the wagons. Quick dip in thinners and a rub over with a cotton bud. I left the white stripe on the panel deliberately. I thought it would make life easier when applying the replacement transfer at a later date. 

 

I gave the two wagons a quick clean in warm water and then proceeded to spray Surface Tracks primer through my airbrush over the two bodies - 20PSI using a Neo by Iwata Airbrush. 

 

IMG_2986.png.a1373d2ae2f579bd8dde29c45238fe35.png

 

Ammo paints need to be applied very gradually, light, frequent passes are best. The paint has a slight texture - this is deliberate. The maker believes that paint should have a texture and he designed the range with military models (tanks, lorries etc.) in mind. I used a very small amount of acrylic thinners to help keep the paint flowing. It does have a tendency to dry at the airbrush tip but this can be avoided with a quick clean every few minutes with a bit of thinners on a piece of kitchen towel. 

 

IMG_2671.jpg.9d2231e5159473ac16fc616f0a556cdb.jpg

 

Once the body has had three coats, built up over an hour or so, I then dabbed rust effect colours on building up from darkest to lightest using a sponge. 

 

IMG_2672.jpg.5b0793146be12c2657af7022e5dabb4a.jpgIMG_2673.jpg.0a6411ca70d3b57ce22c7fe9c134c2c0.jpgIMG_2674.jpg.e7e31a806e75abbe7c4bb52a84473c61.jpgIMG_2989.png.948b97676527c53a2e13f46fc7658b0f.png

 

IMG_2991.png.1c0899b8189b0cc1bb4d19dd5f09d0f0.png

 

IMG_2992.png.55d8fef08a499336ecdd8ab471f3c5fc.png

 

After the bodies had dried overnight, I sprayed two light coats of Scratches Effects Mig-2010. This has a life of about 6 hours so once the chipping fluid has dried, you have to proceed quickly to the main body colour, building it up lightly but quickly. I used Hellblau (Mig-209) and Light Grey (Mig-231)  with a ratio of 3:1 with a tiny bit of acrylic thinner. 

 

IMG_2993.png.31e7283f8af5f992a822ef48151df88c.png

 

IMG_2994.png.70fefd98e58a3a6cb9db98d86495b509.png

 

IMG_2995.png.4c654cfb16c21c4a7adc64ff99f41098.png

 

IMG_2996.png.2e0c248ff7980e3ad69c810aeaaa7579.png

 

This is where the magic begins! 

 

Using a stiff brush and a cocktail stick, I then put a small amount of water over the bodies and then carefully 'chipped' the paint. I find this quite amazing! 

 

IMG_2997.png.8b52fc90710ade0552b415e3e6acc964.pngIMG_2998.png.3d2562f63f16ee6ffc8dba75f9e529aa.png

 

Having tried to replicate a couple of different wagons, I then allowed the bodies to dry over night. 

 

I then proceeded to 'thin' the paint in certain places using Tan for 3-Tone Camo (Mig 1510) it is very important to just use the fluid from this product, don't 'mix it' with the pigment in the jar. This effect is quite subtle; however, it adds a little more to the overall look.

 

IMG_2744.jpg.fd8eb51d9c115d9f72c7af3de3e55167.jpg

 

Lastly, Light Rust Wash (Mig 1004) and Streaking Effects (Mig 1204) were carefully 'streaked' down the side of the bodies. A small amount of Mig Enamel Thinner (2019) is used to blend it all together. 

 

IMG_2707.jpg.a374f5f51bc9534cac32d687cc2f53f5.jpg

 

IMG_2708.jpg.3b288eb3c4b391fe56c2c36d74782a33.jpg

 

Having left it to dry, I then experimented with Dark Wash (Mig 1008) and Engine Grime (Mig 1407).

 

IMG_2740.jpg.846b5c62bacb0c132b18fbf826589a62.jpgIMG_3002.png.56e4608db967bb5cc1d88a2a1f1e8cbb.png

 

I still need to weather the underframes and complete the detailing (coal dust/load etc.) but I do think they look quite convincing! I've completed 5 now, 3 were running on Balcombe last weekend and this pair are destined for Horrabridge. 

 

IMG_2741.jpg.fa5a77b8571fc54dd099daed40ca2791.jpgIMG_2742.jpg.4c83be0692db3450d02712baaf591bdf.jpgIMG_2743.jpg.7fe591296ceca3a3e8897cf5c5795921.jpg

 

I do recommend these products. They are different to use in comparison with enamels; however, I think military modelers have a lot to teach us railway modelers! 

 

I do hope this short guide is of use and please do comment or ask any questions. 

 

Best wishes,

 

Nick.

 

 

IMG_2660.jpg

IMG_3003.png

 

Great video and 'how to' Brinkly. The wagons look superb, thanks for posting.

Steve.

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Thanks Steve. 

 

I did enjoy doing them. I’m still sticking with enamel paints for most of my fitted bauxite vans and wagons; however, all steel minerals will receive the same treatment. 

 

Kind regards,

 

Nick

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22 hours ago, Brinkly said:

Thanks Steve. 

 

I did enjoy doing them. I’m still sticking with enamel paints for most of my fitted bauxite vans and wagons; however, all steel minerals will receive the same treatment. 

 

Kind regards,

 

Nick

 

You're welcome Nick, I like trying some of the military stuff as well. What was the Camo filter that you used, did that colour the paint or take a bit off?

Steve.

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