American 'HO' Gauge - Los Angeles based

[Guest jonte]

nice looking Alco.

 

Thanks, AlcoRS1. Glad you like her too.

 

Jonte

[Guest jonte]

Regarding paint stripping, I've heard many, many ideas and tried some. PineSol cleaner (not sure if this is a UK brand) is one possibility, or "green" de-greasers I've also heard will work. If they don't work, automobile brake fluid is a fairly sure bet, but it's messy.

 

Hi JWB and thanks for your input. I reckoned on the 'solution' (ahum..) coming from one of our friends on the west side of the pond as it was on an American forum that I first came across the idea. Problem is, the products used are generally USA in origin so I was rather hoping that somebody from this side of the water might be able to assist. Meanwhile, are there any chemists reading who could identify a UKian version of Pinesol?

 

Cheers JWB and thanks for looking in.

 

Best wishes,

 

Jonte.

 

PS..........as for the brake fluid, JWB, wouldn't the little lady melt? Jonte

[Guest jonte]

Quite right too! You can certainly tell me where to get off......we only offer advice.

 

Best, Pete.

 

Hi Pete

 

As always, your input and honesty is appreciated. As with all posts on this forum, I know they're well intended. As I wrote in an earlier post, this is all fairly new to me, therefore, anything that stops me going off at a tangent is welcome. In any case, you've snapped me into action and the dithering is over - a decision has been reached. More to follow.

 

Many thanks,

 

Jonte.

[Guest jonte]

Hi, Jonte, I like your home-built turnout....

 

if hinged switch rails really bother you, then simply cut through your existing switch rails, and insert half a rail joiner on each.

 

I have lots of photos of US turnouts....but mostly pre-WW2, and they seem to not have hinged switch rails, so I guess one takes one's choice on this one?

 

[mind, I have some that show no check rails either.....cast crossings I believe?]

 

try running the Alco in for a while....what DC controller are you using?

 

Hi again, Alistairq.

 

Thanks for your compliment. You're very kind.

 

The hinged idea is great and I've seen something like your suggestion on Andy Reichart's P87 page. Doesn't look too complicated, but as I'm still finding my feet in the hobby, best to leave that one for the future

 

As for the check rails, just proves anomalies abound and that you can get away with virtually anything!

 

Glad you agree with my thoughts on running in (nothing too complicated about that ). Incidentally, I'm using a Gaugemaster Series 1 controller (getting on a bit but never used in anger).

 

Thanks for looking in.

 

Jonte

[Guest jonte]

Jonte...in another thread [fread in USian] I mentioned OO SF..or whatever it's called....which essentially uses a gauge of 16.2mm, ???

 

Since you are constructing [very ably] your own turnouts/switches/points/P&C work....these standards would solve your issue regarding check rails and crossing vees....with....as I mentioned in the other thread [fread]...the advantage of accepting..amongst others, NMRA wheel standards..

 

As I said before, plain trackwork can be whatever you want...flexi, home-made, whatever...and to 16.5mm gauge..with just the turnouts at 16.2mm gauge.

 

Have you tried/looked at SHinohara track and turnouts?

 

I don't really know whether it's as easily available in the YuK as it used to be...probably better to buy 2nd hand [pre-loved in USian?} but they are 'live' at the frog/crossing...[why does the google spellchecker keep telling me I should be typing 'crossant' for 'crossing?']

 

 

I haven't really caught iup with this particular thread.sorry...so got all excited over CF7's....and the fact I have...somewhere, the original article and drawings when they were first produced....MR or RMC or Some-such...excited, that is, until I read Sir RAy's post concerning the Athearn model, of which I had no knowledge...

 

Oh how out-of-touch I have become.....to discover that Athearn has motor troubles of old...mine all worked well....simply made the streetlights dim when double-heading.

 

[i have a SW switcher with Ernst gearing.....kept taking out buffer stops...[sorry..track bumpers]]

 

Hi Alistairq,

 

I was excited by your suggestion to consider OO-SF, so much so, that it prompted me to write to the society for more information. I presently received a most friendly and comprehensive response from Mr. Brian Tulley who explained the secret to smooth running hinges more on the BEF of wheelsets rather than the back to back (BTB)(as most of you will no doubt know - I certainly didn't - this is the measurement from the face of one wheel to the back of the other which takes into account the 'thickness' of a the flange/wheel, unlike the back to back that doesn't). To ensure smooth running, provided it's used in conjunction with a set of gauges supplied by the OO-SF, the BEF should be found. A simple jig - three rails, soldered in parallel to a piece of PCB, of predetermined dimensions, can be constructed to test the BEF (ensuring that any wheelsets tested are compliant with the BTB given). Essentially, if the second wheel doesn't clear or rest on the furthest of the 3 rails, the wheels are too coarse - coloquially known as steam roller wheels - and the BTB will be less than 14.3 mm. Apologies if you don't follow this; Brian puts it far more eloquently than I. Anyway, seems the way forward and I hope somebody finds it of use. For those considering this option, just let me know and I'll write back to Brian to seek his permission to publish it here for our info. Afterall this, I have at least reached a decision as to which type of track to go with; more to follow.

 

Briefly, I'd considered Shinohara and was liaising with Dave Long who's purchased some for his pending NW 22nd layout - he was converting the frogs using Andy Rs offerings - upshot: too complicated for me!!! Otherwise they're fine, but there was some concern over availability.

 

Cooled over CF7s for a number of reasons; opted for the Alco as this satisfies both my desire for a shortline feel plus period of late 70s, late eighties? Not sure about precise period yet. This is something else, just like the layout in general, that I'm making up as I go along

 

Your switcher sounds a real beast!!

 

Best wishes,

 

Jonte.

[Guest jonte]

Jonte - see the second photo down on this page for another answer to the question http://www.frankenmodell.de/xstreetjun10.html

 

Thanks, Jack!

 

Jonte

[Guest jonte]

The old Gem levers[the screw-action type]..[or were they Wrenn?] provided positive location...

 

Thanks, Alistairq.

 

Not familiar with the old type, but was quite pleased with the current Mercontrol on offer. A little fiddly to set up but satisfying to use.- with a bit of practise, they can pass for slow motion, silent type modern electric units. How sad am I!

 

Jonte

[Guest jonte]

Just go ahead, Jonte - print this and carry it in your wallet - and if anyone queries it - just show it to them

 

 

 

Bless you, Jack.

 

I shall treasure it.

 

Jonte

[Guest jonte]

Hi All

 

To all those kind souls who've contributed with hints and ideas to my 'choice of track dilemma', I write to inform you that a decision has at long last been made.

 

Not sure that I can wholly rely on the accuracy of my home made offerings, especially with any future purchases of rolling stock, and as I'm loathed to have to lift the whole darn lot after time and effort taken to lay it, I'm bowing out of this option - with a heavy heart - before I go too far down the road. Additionally, Pete (Trisonic) is right - they're nowhere near an accurate representation of those found on real shortlines. So, there you go; placed firmly to the back of the drawer for another time; perhaps.

 

So where to next? Well, following several recent glowing endorsements of the Peco Code 83 trackage, I'm sorely tempted. However, and this is something the Treneglos team touched on, this is a backwater shortline where Code 70 or less was the norm an which has been the greatest influence on my final, yes final decision: Micro Engineering Code 70 #6 turnouts, as recommended by Mr. Mindheim. I feel, based on all the evidence to hand, that these are the most reliable and reasonably priced items on the market and should serve to alleviate most if not all of my anxieties.

 

However, here we go again, there's a plan'B': as with the Shinohara's, there's an issue with availability and, of course, I'm having to look to America to supply. Currently, I've placed an order with a supplier on ebay, however, I await a reply as to whether they supply to the UK as this is not specified on the website. If yes, then fine; additionally I'll be purchasing lengths of rail to make the plain track as there doesn't apper to be a flex-track on offer. If no, then I'm placing an offer for Peco Code 83; easier to obtain and as 'Old Gringo' suggested, once half buried, it will be difficult to tell the difference.

 

Relief!

 

Thanks once again to All.

 

Jonte

[shortliner]

Well - I have no idea what happened to my first post so I'll try again

Jonte - I'm not sure of the age of your new loco, but I note it has the old X2F horn-hook couplers, and AFAIK all recent Atlas models are fitted with Kadee clones.I don't understand why it "buzzes" and behaves oddly - all my locos have run smoothly on DC straight "out of the box" - a cheapo Bachman trainset DC controller will run them well, but for a good slow performance you really need a PWM (pulse width modulated) controller. for those see links below

 

A couple of suggestions - Roger Murray is a member on here - although I don't know if he still supplies these http://forum.gn15.info/viewtopic.php?t=5154 LC101 - I have 2 and they are very good.

 

If you fancy importing one I can also personally recommend the 851 controller from http://www3.sympatico.ca/kstapleton3/Index.html very, very good!

 

KPC (Kent Panel Controls) were also very good, and popular with exhibitors - It seems they have been taken over and may be back in production

http://www.kentpanelcontrols.com/ It may be worth a query email to them - see bottom of page.

 

There are also designs available on t'internet if you fancy building your own

Best

Jack

[trisonic]

This is a more modern replacement than the previous one posted. This is from the "New Hope and Ivyland" shortline in PA formerly a branch of the Reading RR]. It's also easier to see detail:

 

 

 

 

I know it seems that you have received conflicting advice, frankly if I was you I'd "go with the flow" and use the best price and most convenient supply - then revisit once the layout has finished. I'm assuming this will not be the only layout you will build.....

 

All the best, Pete.

[Guest jonte]

Well - I have no idea what happened to my first post so I'll try again

Jonte - I'm not sure of the age of your new loco, but I note it has the old X2F horn-hook couplers, and AFAIK all recent Atlas models are fitted with Kadee clones.I don't understand why it "buzzes" and behaves oddly - all my locos have run smoothly on DC straight "out of the box" - a cheapo Bachman trainset DC controller will run them well, but for a good slow performance you really need a PWM (pulse width modulated) controller. for those see links below

 

A couple of suggestions - Roger Murray is a member on here - although I don't know if he still supplies these http://forum.gn15.info/viewtopic.php?t=5154 LC101 - I have 2 and they are very good.

 

If you fancy importing one I can also personally recommend the 851 controller from http://www3.sympatico.ca/kstapleton3/Index.html very, very good!

 

KPC (Kent Panel Controls) were also very good, and popular with exhibitors - It seems they have been taken over and may be back in production

http://www.kentpanelcontrols.com/ It may be worth a query email to them - see bottom of page.

 

There are also designs available on t'internet if you fancy building your own

Best

Jack

 

Very pleased to receive this, Jack. Thank you.

 

Don't want to go down the road of DCC just yet, so other options about improved performance are most welcome; the post from the satisfied purchaser of Roger's unit for his stock of old, malfunctioning N gauge locos was particularly heartening. Many thanks.

 

Jonte

[Guest jonte]

This is a more modern replacement than the previous one posted. This is from the "New Hope and Ivyland" shortline in PA formerly a branch of the Reading RR]. It's also easier to see detail:

 

 

 

 

I know it seems that you have received conflicting advice, frankly if I was you I'd "go with the flow" and use the best price and most convenient supply - then revisit once the layout has finished. I'm assuming this will not be the only layout you will build.....

 

All the best, Pete.

 

Excellent sources of reference for weathering, Pete. Thanks.

 

Hopefully, this won't be my last layout; all depends on how good or bad my modelling skills are, as we're about to find out. Never mind, I can always go back to armchair modelling and enjoy the fruits of everybody else's labours.

 

Jonte

[trisonic]

Ha! Very Good!!!!

 

Though by looking at your hand made track there's a modicum of skill there...............I'm looking forward to seeing more, please!

 

Best, Pete.

[JWB]

Jonte, I actually first found out about brake fluid from a UK mag 40 or so years ago. I used it for a long time, but do less and less stripping now as factory paint has improved so much. Occasionally the brake fluid melts styrene, but 97-98 percent of the time it's fine -- it's a risk, though. I seldom strip a new model in any case, it's usually a bargain from a swap meet, so if I lose one occasionally, it's not a great loss.

 

Overall, I'd say you're probably safe putting just the cab and hood on that S-2 into brake fluid -- but remove the window and headlight glazing as well as the handrails. Don't soak them for more than an hour or so, if that.

 

But look into "green" degreasers, they're probably safer overall and less messy.

[Guest jonte]

Jonte, I actually first found out about brake fluid from a UK mag 40 or so years ago. I used it for a long time, but do less and less stripping now as factory paint has improved so much. Occasionally the brake fluid melts styrene, but 97-98 percent of the time it's fine -- it's a risk, though. I seldom strip a new model in any case, it's usually a bargain from a swap meet, so if I lose one occasionally, it's not a great loss.

 

Overall, I'd say you're probably safe putting just the cab and hood on that S-2 into brake fluid -- but remove the window and headlight glazing as well as the handrails. Don't soak them for more than an hour or so, if that.

 

But look into "green" degreasers, they're probably safer overall and less messy.

 

Hi again, JWB

 

Thanks for qualifying. At least if I can't find a UK eqivalent, I'll know how to reduce the risk of using brake fluid.

 

Best wishes,

 

Jonte

[Guest jonte]

Ha! Very Good!!!!

 

Though by looking at your hand made track there's a modicum of skill there...............I'm looking forward to seeing more, please!

 

Best, Pete.

 

Most kind of you to say so, Pete. Thanks.

 

Jonte

[dave_long]

Hi All

 

To all those kind souls who've contributed with hints and ideas to my 'choice of track dilemma', I write to inform you that a decision has at long last been made.

 

Not sure that I can wholly rely on the accuracy of my home made offerings, especially with any future purchases of rolling stock, and as I'm loathed to have to lift the whole darn lot after time and effort taken to lay it, I'm bowing out of this option - with a heavy heart - before I go too far down the road. Additionally, Pete (Trisonic) is right - they're nowhere near an accurate representation of those found on real shortlines. So, there you go; placed firmly to the back of the drawer for another time; perhaps.

 

So where to next? Well, following several recent glowing endorsements of the Peco Code 83 trackage, I'm sorely tempted. However, and this is something the Treneglos team touched on, this is a backwater shortline where Code 70 or less was the norm an which has been the greatest influence on my final, yes final decision: Micro Engineering Code 70 #6 turnouts, as recommended by Mr. Mindheim. I feel, based on all the evidence to hand, that these are the most reliable and reasonably priced items on the market and should serve to alleviate most if not all of my anxieties.

 

However, here we go again, there's a plan'B': as with the Shinohara's, there's an issue with availability and, of course, I'm having to look to America to supply. Currently, I've placed an order with a supplier on ebay, however, I await a reply as to whether they supply to the UK as this is not specified on the website. If yes, then fine; additionally I'll be purchasing lengths of rail to make the plain track as there doesn't apper to be a flex-track on offer. If no, then I'm placing an offer for Peco Code 83; easier to obtain and as 'Old Gringo' suggested, once half buried, it will be difficult to tell the difference.

 

Relief!

 

Thanks once again to All.

 

Jonte

 

Jonte,

 

I'm an advocate of 00-SF myself, I think we did talk about it when you first joined, (see my Pensnett thread in my sig, all SF). If you want ME track phone these guys the sidings Tamworth They stock plain ME code 70 and have stock. Best getting plain track this side of the Ocean. I have my order of turnouts with them, he may well have ordered a batch of them from ME not just mine. The only issue with Shinoharas is the switch blades are electrically linked, you can get away with this if your using DC but not with DCC. Other than unsoldering a metal bar they are pretty good. They also do code 83 with no need to change anything they make it for Walthers and can be ordered in the UK from scalelink.

 

hth

 

Dave

 

 

 

 

 

[Sir Ray]

Thanks for qualifying. At least if I can't find a UK eqivalent, I'll know how to reduce the risk of using brake fluid.

Hold on!!!

Before you try brake fluid, try 91% IsoPropyl Rubbing Alcohol (IPA) first - even I used it with success, although it will take a bit (well, some) scrubbing, Nowadays I cheat and use Easy Lift Off paint stripper (because I'm lazy and impatient), but try the 91% alcohol first, at the worst you will have a shiner model - no melting.

 

Here's an thread from the Atlas forum (first one I could find - probably much better info otherplaces) where some guys are chit-chatting about paint stripping - 91% alcohol is first, then Pine-Sol and Brake Fluid and actual paint strippers - but use the Alcohol first

 

Now, since I opened my mouth,I felt I had to do more research as to whether you can actually do what we in the US can do, which is walk to our corner CVS or Rite-Aid pharmacies (~ your UK Boots Chemists), and get 500ml of rubbing alcohol (they finally broke down and started selling Mouthwash and Rubbing alcohol in metric volumes, about time) - apparently not so in the UK .

Instead, apparently something called Surgical Spirit is sold via prescription, and I have no idea what that will do to a model. You do not want this, you want IPA!

 

Isopropyl Alcohol IS available in the UK, as these eBay links will attest

Well, I did even more research, apparently locksmiths might have it, and electronic stores (Maplin?), as well as some pharmacies it seems. Now I'll leave the rest of the research up to you guys, but it does explain why 91% IsoPropyl Alcohol is NOT on the shelf of every UK modeler - in the US our Model Railroader magazine even made a little video about the many uses of IPA, including ink washes/cleaning parts/stripping paint/prepping ground cover and so on.

(Note, 70% IPA exists too, I use that for creating washes and 'wetting' ground cover before applying glue - however, you want the 91% stuff for paint stripping and cleaning track - actually, you can always dilute that w/ water if you want 70%)

[298]

Don't know if this has been mentioned on the thread before, but another option for code 70 is to use Fast Tracks turnout kits, or buy them ready built from Cream City Turnouts. Delivery may take a while but is cheaper than buying jigs for a small or varied order, and that gives you the option of using #4 radius. No connection other than being a satisfied customer.

[Steve Williams]

Can anyone advise as to what is the difference between Iso Propan-1-ol and Iso Propan-2-ol Alcohol?

 

Steve

[trisonic]

Dunno. We don't have those terms over here in the 'States but what we do have are two commonly different strengths. One is 70% alcohol, the other is 90% alcohol.

 

Maybe it is something to do with this?

 

Best, Pete.

[dave_long]

I struggled to get 90% over here I could get 70% and 100%, eBay is the cheapest IMO.

[F-UnitMad]

... I did even more research, .... it does explain why 91% IsoPropyl Alcohol is NOT on the shelf of every UK modeler...

You've just hit on another of those "Dark Side" things that make US modelling look like something of a Dark Art from this side of the Pond... no we can't just walk into our local Chemist and buy "Rubbing Alcohol"... Heck we've got such a Nanny State here they won't even sell you Aspirin (Headache Pills) in packs more than 16 in case you want to take a load with a bottle of Whiskey and top yourself!! (commit suicide!)

[Sir Ray]

Can anyone advise as to what is the difference between Iso Propan-1-ol and Iso Propan-2-ol Alcohol?

Wiki can: - Isopropyl alcohol (also propan-2-ol, 2-propanol or the abbreviation IPA) , so we in the US use Iso Propan-2-ol (I am looking at the 70% bottle I have here, and I note it's almost expired - so while it cannot be used to disinfect cuts, it willl still work as a 'vehicle' for washes and scenery 'wetting' (breaking surface tension so the following glue application flows more evenly)

 

I struggled to get 90% over here I could get 70% and 100%,

100% IPA is fine, just dilute down to 91% using distilled water (which is what the manufacturer does anyway). Measure out a 1:9 ratio of Water to 100% IPA, then mix all but a decismidge of the water into the alcohol... (Actually 90% should be OK for stripping paint and cleaning track)

 

You've just hit on another of those "Dark Side" things

Oh no, not this 'Dark Site' meme again!

That's enough! Becaise of this, you guys have forced me into sending this 1980s earworm to disrupt internal UK communcations!