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Class 20/3 Body


Pete Harvey

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I will be producing a Class 20/3 Body that will be a direct replacement for the current body it will fit to 8pin and 21pin chassis including Sound chassis

 

It will have everything except Tanks, Windows, Radio Pods & Buffers.

 

The modeller will choose whose Tanks and Windows they fit Shawplan or PH Designs.

 

It will be about 6 weeks before I have the first production bodies.

 

The costs will be as follows:

 

One Pair of Bodies: £85.50 + Tanks £92.00 + £6.50p+p

Single Body: £50.00 + Tanks £53.52 + £3.50p+p

 

If you would like more info please email me through my Web Site?

 

Pete

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  • 5 weeks later...

I will be producing a Class 20/3 Body that will be a direct replacement for the current body it will fit to 8pin and 21pin chassis including Sound chassis

 

Pete, are we talking OO Bachmann when the 'current body' (my bold, italics) is mentioned?

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Here are some pictures of the first Resin casting from the Class 20/3 tooling.

 

post-6665-0-68242200-1307707898_thumb.jpg

 

post-6665-0-17569100-1307707902_thumb.jpg

 

Early and late Rad Side grills are included.

 

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post-6665-0-69327300-1307707906_thumb.jpg

 

The distinctive Wypac are cast into the cab end and nose end.

 

post-6665-0-41278100-1307707894_thumb.jpg

 

The third grill door is in place.

 

The cab side windows are already the correct shape for the windows.

 

For more info please contact me through my web site?

 

Pete

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  • 1 month later...

Pete,

 

Can you please advise if the pictures are test casings or are the final "as purchased" standard.

Reason I ask is because I am a bit bemused as to why if the body is a "new" 20/3 body casting, the long range fuel tanks haven't been included as part of the final casting?.

Also, if the tanks are to be fitted as separate etched parts, why you have not removed the two lower bodyside grilles where the tanks are fitted and remodelled the upper (smaller) grille? The two lower grilles (as with the Bachmann body) will need to be scraped off without damaging the upper grille, which can be left but will be wrong.

 

There also seems to be a significant overhang on one of the cabsides in relation to the solebar, last picture.

 

As I say, not sure if these pictures show the finished article, but the 20/3 is a gap in the market.

 

 

Thanks

Pete

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Pete

 

The pictures are of one of the first castings from the tooling, the fit of the parts has been refined.

 

The extra grill door has been fitted, the light units fitted and the cab windows altered to accept my window etches or Shawplan.

 

The grill doors have not been changed because either my tanks can be fitted or the Shawplan tanks both sets of tanks fit in a

slightly different way and has a bearing on the grill doors.

 

Some people prefer my Tanks and some prefer the Shawplan Tanks and windows.

 

Pete

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Pete,

I understand about the end changes. I can also see where you have added an extra set of grille doors on the off side replacing the plain door.

 

I am currently doing a 20/3 conversion from a Bachmann body and in order to get the Shawplan tanks to fit properly it is necessary to remove the lower two grilles nearest to the cab end. How do your tanks differ? The top grille is smaller as I said, and this can be seen on this pic. For this I have used the separate grille etches from Shawplan, ( In fact I am replacing all the grille doors. )

post-739-0-49645200-1310765466_thumb.jpg

 

I would imagine therefore that the same two grilles would need to be removed on your resin body as it follows the Bachmann pattern?

 

Pete

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Pete

 

My tanks are the correct size and shape for the 20/3 though they do not have a back plate and this is down to the modellers' personal preference,

whether they put the cosmetic backing plate edge on the model, this is not an accidental omission from the etch, but it has not been included as the majority

of modellers would not consider it life or death situation not to have it on their model.

 

DSCF5000Small.jpg

 

Pete

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Pete,

 

It seems a shame that the grilles on the body sides nearest the cab look as if they are the original style full-height 3 grille panel. The small grille fitted over the long range fuel tanks is shorter in height then one panel of the 3-panel grilles and has hinges and latches in different positions.

 

Your photo shows a tank fitted around the grilles, but there is no room for the horizontal strip that with 5 bolt heads that appears to secure the top edge of the tank to the body side, this is because the grille extends too far down the bodyside, the strip fits in the gap between the grille and the top of the tank. Your tank appears to be the correct size so the grille must be wrong as the correct relationship of components isn't possible.

 

The top of the grille should also be a little lower, looking along the top line of grilles the single grille should be noticeably out of alighnment with all of the others.

 

I haven't yet got round to converting my pair of 20s. The cab and nose modifications were not the part giving me most concern, as this involves removing all details and filling anything left over before starting I never felt it was going to be much of a problem as you end up working on a blank canvas. The bodyside grilles are my worry as they need to be done right to avoid spoiling the bodyside in that area. Many of the conversions I've seen are a bit of a let down in that area and I'd hoped that your resin castings would be the perfect solution.

 

I'd been considering a pair of your bodies but to be honest they don't address what I think is the most difficult part of the conversion. I would still have to remove all of the grille nearest the cab on each side and fit a new grille, probably not much different to the cut and shut to move one set of grilles on one side of the Bachmann body, remove a set on the other side and manufacture new small grilles.

 

A few of my photos are attached showing the smaller single grille over the fuel tanks and it's relationship to the other components in this area.

 

Martin

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post-171-0-92404700-1310899080_thumb.jpg

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Pete,

 

I appreciate your comment that the modeller makes their own choice as to how much and what level of detail they include.

 

It just seems such a wasted opportunity, the only use for your bodies is to model a 20/3. Unless I'm missing something obvious it ought to have been as easy to put the correct grille on the master as to include the wrong grille. It just seems plain wrong to have to remove and replace a whole set of grilles if the purchaser wants to make a correct job of this part of the conversion on a body that can only be used for this small group of 15 locos.

 

Martin

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Martin

 

The average modeller would just like a class 20/3 with the minimum amount of changes, trimming off a few small pieces of resin to to fit the tanks to get a descent looking class 20/3 wont bother them.

 

If you want to do what you are saying needs to be done then that is up to you.

 

Pete

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