Wherry Lines Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 Hi David. Interesting problem. I can't think that the weather would cause that much issue. It's not overly hot, so although it would dry quicker, I doubt it would be quick enough to cause the problems you are experiencing. Could it be the brand of PVA is different? Have you made up the mixture differently? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmthtrains - David Posted August 21, 2011 Author Share Posted August 21, 2011 Hi Simon, Its the same ballast, same PVA, same washing up liquid added in same proportions. I thought about the weather in that as its hot in my dining room (26 degrees), whether it is drying before its properly seeped through the ballast. Hopefully the scenic cement sprayed on will fix it down. Its not like it all comes off when you shake it, the hoover on full blast doesn't touch it, but if you poke it, it crumbles. Odd, and annoying! David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNCF stephen Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 I had the same problem on my layout and found that giving it time to settle after the first drying session then going over it again helped. I did a test piece of ballasting on balsa wood and it did go crumbley so perhaps the Balsa extracts the moisture from the glue quicker than normal? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robrailltd Posted August 22, 2011 Share Posted August 22, 2011 Balsa is an extremely porous wood. next time you may want to try sealing the wood before ballasting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanks522 Posted August 22, 2011 Share Posted August 22, 2011 Hi David If the balsa isn't sealed it will absorb the glue almost instantly and i'm sure when i've done it in the past if you add more glue to the ballast it will eventually seep right through the balsa and leak out? I have had the same problem on a previous layout, i'm sure i just did several passes of glue over a few hours, sort of little and often. Graham. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmthtrains - David Posted August 22, 2011 Author Share Posted August 22, 2011 Thanks both, I'd say about 90% of it is okay, its just that last 10% that is annoying! The balsa absorbing the glue makes sense, hopefully a generous layer of scenic cement on the top will help hold it together. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wherry Lines Posted August 22, 2011 Share Posted August 22, 2011 I've been thinking about your use of Balsa David. Would the humidity eventually cause any problems, such as warping? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmthtrains - David Posted August 22, 2011 Author Share Posted August 22, 2011 Shouldn't do (I hope!), its very well braced and there will be little room to move once the viaduct sides are on. I used it on Ring Road but on the storage side, so the new factor this time is the ballast. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmthtrains - David Posted August 27, 2011 Author Share Posted August 27, 2011 I am remembering today why Ring Road didn't have any points on the scenic section - because in N gauge they are a nightmare!!! The scenic cement (genius product!) has done the trick on the ballast, but having suitably cleaned the rails after weathering, I now find that 2 of the 3 points just don't want to play ball. Scraped, polished, cleaned, vacuumed until I want to throw the whole thing out the window, the usual inexplicably small mote of dust/paint is stopping the blades from making contact, so locos are stalling as they go over. The blade surfaces have no visible dirt on them, yet the briefest of touches with a knife, moving the blade what seems to be about an atom's width, and everything runs fine again. To all N gaugers - any tips on getting these blasted things working properly again? At this rate, the layout will be ripped up and points forever banished to non-scenic sections! David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted August 27, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 27, 2011 I always found tweaking the blade over a bit, trying to roll the rail over almost, worked on their 009 points and even on temperamental OO ones. Grasp the blade in the end of tweezers and just rock them towards the rail it closes with. Works for me but careful not to rip them out of the tie bar. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wherry Lines Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 Hi David. I share your frustrations with N gauge pointwork and ballasting. I used point motors with frog polarity control, and these control the power on the points/ point blades. I found this a much better solution than relying on contact made by the point blades. A similar setup can be created using a switch mounted to the bottom on the point motor, and wired suitably for polarity control. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanks522 Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 One thing i've tried in the past is using a fibre glass pen on the blade to clean it, when thats failed i've run a wire from the blade to the other side of the frog and just put a switch on it. hope thats of some help David. Graham. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmthtrains - David Posted August 30, 2011 Author Share Posted August 30, 2011 Well perseverance has certainly paid off, and trains are moving smoothly at last! Paul's tip of rolling the blade slightly worked on the points, the motors are working beautifully, and the two circuits of track are now joined together (the storage sidings will be added at a later date when funds allow), so I can now really push on with the scenics. Ballast is now stuck (!!) and sprayed a basic track dirt colour. My next jobs are: Install the final point motor Tidy wires under the baseboard Add the wooden outer ends to box in the layout Construct the viaduct sides Build the station platform Detail the track, add lineside, signals and OHLE equipment For now, I can at least run some trains! Here's a quick vid: David http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xTdsWZ65YsQ&hd=1 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmthtrains - David Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 Well this is really starting to look like a layout at last! I have started cutting shapes for the backscene (this will be another bespoke printed affair when I can afford it!), and the station platform is now in place. I've also cut a basic template for me to use to start designing the platform canopy with - this is going to be tricky as it is curved, and needs to be well constructed as it is quite visible on the layout. The N gauge show is going to be a wallet-breaker this year I think, I have a long list of detailing bits I need for both lineside and the station, but that A1 is seemingly on its way to the stands... David 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmthtrains - David Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 And to reward myself for having done so many 'boring' bits to the layout recently, I've started making the station waiting room, complete with vending machines outside (which are 11mm tall!). This will sit under the platform canopy - which will now be my next task, having realised that I can't do the viaduct sides until I have made the bridges at either end, as this will determine the number of arches I need. David 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Revolution Mike Posted September 1, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 1, 2011 David Nice work on the vending machines - how do you make them? Are they your artwork or photos printed on paper/card and folded to shape? Cheers, Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmthtrains - David Posted September 4, 2011 Author Share Posted September 4, 2011 Thanks Mike, They're a mix of photos and graphics (as with most of my card constructions!). The trickiest thing I think I'll have to make for the station is going to be the little departure screens - whether the old CRT TV-style monitors, or the newer dot-matrix ones, they're going to be very small indeed! N gauge show imminent, but this week I'm hoping to get most of the viaduct sides done, as I should be coming home with armfuls of track side detailing and OHLE goodies! Here's a general shot with the dummy buildings in place, gives an impression of how things will eventually look. David 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNCF stephen Posted September 4, 2011 Share Posted September 4, 2011 The trickiest thing I think I'll have to make for the station is going to be the little departure screens - whether the old CRT TV-style monitors, or the newer dot-matrix ones, they're going to be very small indeed! Have you thought about getting these printed in 3D? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmthtrains - David Posted September 4, 2011 Author Share Posted September 4, 2011 Hi Stephen, I hadn't thought of that actually, although I have to say this 3D printing thing has completely passed me by. Although stunned by what some people are producing (Paul's lovely N gauge tube stock for example), I think I'm definitely an old fashioned modeller, even given the vast amount of graphical work I do on the computer. That the day is coming when you can simply say, "I'll have 3 of those please" and your 3D home printer makes perfect components for you just doesn't have the fun and challenge of building something yourself from scratch. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobD Posted September 4, 2011 Share Posted September 4, 2011 Anything like this any good 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmthtrains - David Posted September 5, 2011 Author Share Posted September 5, 2011 Hi Bob, thats rather nice! I need either the monitor style ones, or the dot-matrix display like you've got there, but the ones that hang down from the station canopy. Very tempting though! David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobD Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 Have you got some example pictures of your preference. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu from EGDL Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 Hi David; I'd go for the CRT version. Consider a 4mm 'square of plasticard and countersink a 3mm hole into it. Paint the colour of choice...then fill the countersink with pva/clearglaze etc to become the screen. Add a post to mount or suspend the thing and you're done. I know that the hole will be round...and if it bothers you then a frame can be built for the front edge. Lifted from the suggestion of scrap washing machines on a 'OO' layout.....but can't remember the name!!! Later; STU from EGDL Later... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black_bear Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 This layout it providing me with inspiration for when I downsize to n scale. You mentioned that you will not be able to run your Pendolino - is this because of the curves? Would a four coach Pendolino run? I want to future proof the layout for whenever the Pendolino is released. Your Pendolino is excellent - I am jealous!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MrSimon Posted September 6, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 6, 2011 Hi, the TV type display things are quite easy to build just with some bits of plasticard filed to shape: I'd imagine the more modern type could be made by printing the screen and sticking it to a shape piece of plasticard like on a computer monitor: The more modern type are a bit too flash for Gresby but it should work well enough (I painted it after I stuck the paper screen on so I didn't have the white edge of the paper on it) Looking forward to seeing the station develop! Simon 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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