James Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 Paul, this is really nice! Hopefully something more substanial will follow this very soon...?! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
halfwit Posted June 24, 2011 Author Share Posted June 24, 2011 Paul, this is really nice! Hopefully something more substanial will follow this very soon...?! Thanks James. I think that this will be my only layout for a long time. I just haven't got the room or the funds for anything bigger at the moment. (I'm funding this layout by selling some of my old junk on ebay). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
halfwit Posted June 26, 2011 Author Share Posted June 26, 2011 Cladding experiments. I'm using Slaters corrugated plasticard to clad the front two buildings, and possibly the rear building as well. One of the problems in using it is suggesting a convincing overlap between sheets, each sheet overlaps the sheet next to it as well as the sheet below it. However, laying one sheet directly onto the next produces a very unconvincing overscale effect. I'm thinking of laying the cladding in individual sheets, I could just lay horizontal strips and scribe a line to give the effect of seperate sheets but somehow I'm not sure if that will be effective enough. I've cut out eight sheets, all scale at 8' x 4'. On four of the sheets I've glued a strip of .010" x .030" along the bottom only (on the rear of the sheet) and the other four have strips along the bottom edge and along the left hand edge (as seen from above), to give the impression of overlapping along the horizontal and vertical joins. Like this; The panels have been glued to a scrap of foamboard in two blocks; And primered; I'm not sure if adding the strips along the vertical edge has been worth the effort to be honest so I'l probably just add the bottom strip when I start cladding the buildings. It seems to be more important to have a distinct overlap on the horizontal joins than the vertical joins. Opinions please! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Posted June 26, 2011 Share Posted June 26, 2011 Looks right to me, that horizontal joint is far more prominent on the real thing and I think what you've done captures it really well. Arthur Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coombe Barton Posted June 26, 2011 Share Posted June 26, 2011 This is looking incredibly good Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted June 26, 2011 Share Posted June 26, 2011 It seems to be more important to have a distinct overlap on the horizontal joins than the vertical joins. I would agree with that premise. the overlap on the vertical in scale terms would have been imperceptible just a paint thickness as they tended to be overlapped in the gully of the corrugation and nailed through both layers for added strength. The horizontal joins were also very close, purely the thickness of the corrugated sheet which for corrugated iron was really quite thin. I would say that even the Slater's product is too thick for straight 'out of the box' use. Perhaps sanding /shaving the edge down a little at the join? The best results I have seen for corrugated iron was using aluminium foil or that other foil product (I can't remember the supplier ATM) IIRC in copper foil - but not cheap. It is so thin it can be distressed quite easily and twisted/gashed with a very metal like appearance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
halfwit Posted June 26, 2011 Author Share Posted June 26, 2011 Thanks for the comments, always appreciated. The best results I have seen for corrugated iron was using aluminium foil or that other foil product (I can't remember the supplier ATM) IIRC in copper foil - but not cheap. It is so thin it can be distressed quite easily and twisted/gashed with a very metal like appearance. Ambis sell it according to their 2010 catalogue in both aluminium and copper foil, in two patterns (industrial and domestic) and different sized sheets. However I'll stick with Slaters at the moment. By the way, I'm using Rokit Card Glue to stick the cladding to the foamboard shells which works rather well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted June 26, 2011 Share Posted June 26, 2011 Ambis sell it according to their 2010 catalogue in both aluminium and copper foil Thanks, yes that was what I was trying to remember. I have oft wondered if a similar product could be achieved using Baco-Foil and a spongy roller? - probably too flimsy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
halfwit Posted June 28, 2011 Author Share Posted June 28, 2011 Front buildings clad. I've been working on the front two buildings. Both have been clad with Slaters embossed sheet. I made the brick wall along the bottom a scale 8' high so that I could easily add a doorway or two, although I didn't in the end as I want the buildings to be quite plain. Above the brick I've used embossed corrugated iron cut into individual 3' x 8' sheets glued in place with the bottom edge resting on a .010" x .030" strip to give the impression of overlaying sheets. Rokit Card Glue is proving very effective at glueing plastic to foamboard. Here's the left hand building with the brickwork and the first layer of corrugated in place. Above the corrugated the .010" strip can be seen in place ready for the next layer (the roof will also be clad when some more sheet arrives in the post); Both buildings clad; First coat of primer (red car aerosol); Brickwork masked off, corrugated sprayed with grey primer; And a cruel close up (some rubbing down needed); Its far from perfect but I'm hoping that it will look better after painting. Cutting out and glueing individual sheets takes time and discipline, hopefully its been worth the effort. Comments always welcome. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mason Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 They look fantastic, and a great step by step of how you did it, looking forward to seeing how they transform the layout Neil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 Well, it's convinced me that it's the way to go, look's excellent, just the right amount of relief on the vertical and horizontal joints, Arthur Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scanman Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 Looking really good... Personally I wouldn't be over-concerned about the imperfections - they would probably make a good base for some subtle weathering with chalks with rust effects etc. If (like me) the 'readies' are an issue, check out oil pastels in your local art shop. Whilst they're initially more expensive than commercial packs of weathering powders, rubbed down on emery they go a heck of a lot further! Regs Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
halfwit Posted June 29, 2011 Author Share Posted June 29, 2011 Thanks for the comments. As I said its not perfect but it has been a good learning experience (which is what this project is all about). I'll be using the same technique on the main building, which will probably drive me mad! I quite like the effect that spraying grey primer over red gives (which doesn't really show up in the photos) so I'm tempted to leave them in primer and just add subtle weathering . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
halfwit Posted July 1, 2011 Author Share Posted July 1, 2011 Main building cladding started. The lower part of the main building is clad in Slaters embossed brick. The upper part and roof will again be Slaters corrugated. The white upright pieces between the brick sections will be painted black to represent structural girders. I've also added some 'C' section Plastruct to the bottom of the loading hopper. When the building is finally glued in place I'll add some 'H' section uprights to support the hopper structure. Everything temporarily in place, including the Coopercraft weighbridge hut; Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Brinkly Posted July 1, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 1, 2011 The corrugated iron was certainly a labour of love Paul! Looks really good so far and will be nice to photograph stock on. Regards, Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted July 8, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 8, 2011 I like the way you've used the height of the buildings to dwarf the wagons. I also agree that the method used to create the 'overlaps' on the wriggly tin is brilliant - it looks exactly like it should do. Great stuff Stu Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 Nice one, Paul. This is full of win. It's the industrials innit. B) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
halfwit Posted July 11, 2011 Author Share Posted July 11, 2011 Thanks for the comments. Nick - the corrugated is finally starting to drive me mad! Stu - I wish I could claim that the 'overlapping' technique was mine! I copied the method from bcnPete's excellent Coombe Junction - Moorswater blog. Big buildings towering over stock fascinates me, that probably comes from living in the Peaks and having Hope cement works and Tunstead quarry nearby. Dave - I'm not sure about it being 'full of win', I've got no hope of even coming close, but its a step towards what I really want - a nice big industrial layout! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoker Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 This is really good progress, Paul. That corrugated cladding looks great. I wouldn't bother with any rubbing down, in all honesty. Also I've got to say that your work is actually a pretty good representation of the prototype, so I wouldn't worry about it not being exactly perfect. From the photos it looks straight enough, even your cruel close up is fine from where I'm sat. The effects of the sun and wind, as well as the odd replacement sheet, will leave a corrugated iron structure less than "ruler straight" anyway. Actually I reckon you should buckle a few on purpose, make a few rust holes, etc. If you've got any corrugated sheet overhanging the tracks anywhere, definitely knock a few dents into it where over-height vehicles have clouted it. Also, side on scrapes where vehicles have gotten too close! The thinness of that corrugated styrene is great for those sort of effects. More soon, I hope! Best, Scott. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest oldlugger Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 I really like this Paul - very promising indeed with some excellent looking stock. Keep up the lovely work! Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold bcnPete Posted July 23, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 23, 2011 Paul, hi Many thanks for the credit ...I think we are all learning things from each other on this forum - that's why it works so well. I have been watching this come together and I am really enjoying it - a very nice sense of depth you have created - really draws you in to the scene. A nice grubby 08 would look good shunting those minerals around too Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
halfwit Posted July 24, 2011 Author Share Posted July 24, 2011 Again thanks for the comments - always appreciated. Pete - your work is an inspiration and deserves credit! Main building clad and primered. There has not done much to the project recently - I've been concentrating on other jobs on my workbench. However I did find time to spray the main building in primer, red oxide and grey being used as before. I think I'll keep the corrugated in grey primer. The brickwork will of course be repainted - I just need to work out which colours to use. Some pics; Note the door on the front of the hopper extension, there will be a walkway and steps added later. I'm hoping to order some track and baseboard dowels this week. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 Hi Only just found this it looks very good, I look forward to seeing the completed article. Must make something for my stcok to run on. Must finish building the house. Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
halfwit Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 Thanks Peter. This one hasn't been worked on for months! Perhaps I'll get if finished when the warm weather comes round again. I have the track but not the enthusiasm at the moment. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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