Brian Harrap Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 Ah yes, of course in the world of railways you can find exceptions to every rule, and lots of alternative rules. But the original question concerned planed check rail flares on flat bottom track to what I assumed to be UK main line practice, hence the answer. Regards Keith Only a gentle leg pull Keith, I was quite suprised when I came across it - Bowes Rly by the way. Still in situ along with lots more very odd looking trackwork. All done by the onsite blacksmith I should think. Aug 2011. Best, Brian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Katier Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 Well I've been enjoying my work making points but certainly won't be presenting it close up.. it's embarrisingly bad.. but the stock (trucks mainly) seem to flow through it just fine and passes just about from a distance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Melly Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 I saw this in the Kier Hardy EM gauge website - some really useful tips for point construction: http://www.emgauge70...lpageindex.html Select the AUg update and scroll down past the deltics !! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Harrap Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 A fine piece of P4 trackwork seen disappearing into the mist. Built by 'first time P4er' Andrew Eaton. Fiddled around with it at ZOBtowers today and it looks even better than in the picture. Stuff runs through it like a dream too. I do hope it won't be long before the rest of the track is up and running, looking forward to it. Brian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Very beautiful, Brian. I bet Andrew had a good teacher?? Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 I saw this in the Kier Hardy EM gauge website - some really useful tips for point construction: http://www.emgauge70...lpageindex.html Select the AUg update and scroll down past the deltics !! Thats been a very usefull link, I have just started building a P4 trailing crossover in ply and rivet construction. As I am building it 'off board' I was thinking about how to get around the slide chairs with rivets / cosmetic chairs, the brass shim used has given me a possiable solution. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Russ (mines a pint) Posted November 8, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 8, 2011 - been using a 2mil association jig for making up #8 points and thinking how much easier it would be if I had a vice (well I have a few, but I mean one specifically for making track!!) I want a #6 point for the goods yard so thinking I may try this bending the rail in half for the 6 angle, but what do you suggest as replacement for the vise if you dont have one? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc2001 Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 I've been making my own track for 7mm narrow gauge for some time and a while back published some articles which are now available online at: http://www.o14group....m-ng-trackwork/ John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 I saw this in the Kier Hardy EM gauge website - some really useful tips for point construction: http://www.emgauge70...lpageindex.html Select the AUg update and scroll down past the deltics !! I like the strategic placement of copper clad - that's how I think I would do it, esp. at the tie bar. I'm trying to see how the gap between rail and copperclad timber was done. Was there a hole drilled in the timber and brass pin inserted (and glued?) with rail soldered to that? Kind of like the rivet method. I'm wondering about how strong that would be. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 I like the strategic placement of copper clad - that's how I think I would do it, esp. at the tie bar. I'm trying to see how the gap between rail and copperclad timber was done. Was there a hole drilled in the timber and brass pin inserted (and glued?) with rail soldered to that? Kind of like the rivet method. I'm wondering about how strong that would be. John Most use a piece of brass shim, I keep the left over bits from etched kits as they come in usefull Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted November 19, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 19, 2011 - been using a 2mil association jig for making up #8 points and thinking how much easier it would be if I had a vice (well I have a few, but I mean one specifically for making track!!) I want a #6 point for the goods yard so thinking I may try this bending the rail in half for the 6 angle, but what do you suggest as replacement for the vise if you dont have one? You could try using toolmakers clamps or just clamping something down with a C clamp. But seeing as you can get various vices which will clamp down onto a work surface why not get one of those. You don't need a big vice for 2mm. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Re6/6 Posted January 2, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 2, 2012 Here is the first work on the scissors as part of the track renewal for Matford 'New'. This shows the first use of the very fine Colin Craig etched parts for flatbottom switch and crossing work including the etched insulated sole plates. (Usual disclaimer) These parts were soldered in the usual way with an iron, but on trying it the other switch, a dog's dinner was the result! So I dug out the resistance soldering station, blew the dust off it and rediscovered the joy of it's use. The great advantage is that the electrode can be held in place whilst the joint cools. Better attention will be paid to consistent sleeper lengths on the other point builds! This shows the clamp brackets and the stretcher bar brackets for the switch blades. These snaps show the effectiveness of ultrasonic cleaning using the 'cheapo' machine that I got off Ebay There was no cleaning off with a brush first. I just wish that it was bigger! This is the insulated sole plate base. Archers rivet transfers will probably be added to insulated upstand. I failed miserably trying to emboss rivets into the brass etch! This was the first use for me of Dave Doe's 'DD Wheelwrights' crossing nose alignment aid, available from the Scalefour Society stores. I thought that all the gauges, jigs etc.. ever needed for accurate point construction were available, until I bought this one. But when a 'track nut' sees a new gizmo I just have to get it! Am I glad that I got this one. It does away with the need for a 'third hand' when doing crossing work. For the first time I've got good straight lines between wing rails and crossing vees! This is the attempt #3 at making the darned thing. The previous attempts were defective in the alignment department, both vertically and horizontally. They were built starting with the centre diamonds and working outwards. For me diamonds are notoriously tricky to get right. This time I'm using a different method building the four turnouts and joining them all together and filling in with the diamond parts. This goes against all the received wisdom so hopefully it won't all go belly up! This is the first putting together of two opposing leads for the first time. The bottom rails will be removed and the top ones will be replaced with longer rails to join up. I'm quite pleased with the 'manganese cast' pieces. Failure in this department was one of the principal problems with previous efforts. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Brinkly Posted January 2, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 2, 2012 That's a jolly nice bit of track work there chap! Regards, Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Hello Dave,I like it. Excellent bit trackwork I reckon. First thing I noticed was the rusty check rails, you do see it on layouts but not often enough, well observed. I also admired the fit of your point blades, nice and snug to the stock rails and just the right look about them. Some of mine resemble a dogs breakfast I have to say. My early experiences were much the same as you describe yours, fighting with code 100 (alright for O scale)and those silly looking point blades they use on some rtr track - they're still using them. I havn't done much of that stickaloadofchairstowoodensleepers type of construction, most of my work has been using copperclad fabricating my own fb railfixings from Plastuct and the like, at least where its not buried in the street - I do quite a bit of that. I work mainly in HO (when I'm not off on some flight of fancy) so the 4mm stuff from C&L etc is of little use. Oh yes before I go thats a nice fine and neat rail gap in the foreground of one of your pics - pic 1. Don't I just hate those gaps that the old cutting discs leave. Enjoy your trackbuilding, Regards, Brian. Hi Brian You say here that you have fabricated FB railfixings from plastruct and the like, I would be interested in what you did as I am just starting building my own track using copperclad and FB rail, and I am too tight to buy stuff if I can make it cheaper. Thanks Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Harrap Posted January 7, 2012 Author Share Posted January 7, 2012 Hello Andy, just spotted your post. Yes I do make up my own (cosmetic) simulated rail fixings from Plastruct 0.3 and 0.5mm stip, not least as I work mainly in HO nothing much commercially is readily available. Mostly I do copperclad construction, attached are a couple of pics showing what the finished product looks like - see if you like it. The copperclad (the glassfibre type) is heavily distressed by scraping with a razor saw to simulate wood grain to such an extent that the copper is completely removed in and around the middle of the sleeper to create the insulation gap. So much neater than those awful cutwithasawbladeorcuttingdisc things you often see. The other two pics show how I actually fit the pieces. An overly long 0.5mm strip is placed alongside the base of the rail (with super glue) and later I go along gluing on all the other, also overly long other pieces. I hope the pics make this clear. When all is nicely set the excess lengths are trimmed off. All much quicker and easier than you might think. Paint and ballast to taste. I would stress that this is just what I do to make my track look like I want it to look like - not a how to on how to make representations of any particular Prototype fixing. Whatever you decide to do, whatever you find works for you I wish you all the best with your trackmaking, it's great fun. If I can be of any futher help, please get in touch. Regards, Brian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Great, thanks for that Brian, very helpful, I am not looking for rivet counting detail just an impression of some sort of rail fixing, and great tip on distressing the copperclad to look like timber will be giving that a go as well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HMS Ark Royal V Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Hi Everyone This is my first post That's a jolly nice bit of track work there chap! I completely agree Im trying to build a 00-sf scissors crossover, but im not sure how to design it on templot - any suggestions Thanks Chris Edited to correct my rubbish spelling Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Chris, I don't want to dampen your enthusiasm but your question about 00-SF scissors crossovers and Templot doesn't belong in Brian's thread - it will take it off topic. Either search through the other Templot oriented topics in this section that are more general and ask the question there, start a new topic in this section or take a look at Martin's Templot Club site http://85a.co.uk/forum/ Welcome aboard, by the way! Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Hi Everyone This is my first post I completely agree Im trying to build a 00-sf scissors crossover, but im not sure how to design it on templot - any suggestions Thanks Chris Edited to correct my rubbish spelling Chris Pete is right in that Templot Club is the correct place to ask this question. I have had Templot for 3 or 4 years, I can create simple formations. But when it comes to making slips from crossovers and varying the length of rails etc I am lost. I have built a few scissors crossovers from Templot templates, by overlaying a trailing crossover on to a facing crossover within Templot. I then was able to remove some of the rails in the program. Then once the plan was printed used Copydex to tidy up the plan further. There are many experienced track builders who draw these up by hand. I have built quite a few turnouts so not a novice builder, also I use plans/templates as guides. So that once I have set the V's (in this instance) every other rail is set in place using gauges and straight edges. Providing all the rails that should line up with each other do, the correct gauge is kept at all times as is the flangeway and check rail gaps. it will work fine. Just think of it as 2 left and 2 right hand turnouts with the center of a scissors crossing in the middle. Where it does become hard is where some of the turnouts are curved. Good luck with the project, its an intersting formation to build and should be buildable without too much trouble providing you have built the odd turnout before. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold martin_wynne Posted January 14, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 14, 2012 I'm trying to build a 00-SF scissors crossover, but im not sure how to design it on Templot - any suggestions Hi Chris, The basic Templot procedure to create an outline scissors crossover is: 1. start with a turnout of the required V-crossing angle, and TS track spacing centres. 2. do > turnout road > crossover 3. put the peg on TXP (CTRL-5) 4. do > snap to peg 5. tools > make mirror on peg 6. tools > make simple crossover 7. do > snap to peg 8. tools > make mirror on peg 9. store & background That works starting with a straight or curved turnout, to create a straight or curved scissors, and gets you all the essential rail alignments. After which you can create all the partial templates and shoved timbers needed for the final design. If you start with a standard turnout the above procedure will most likely give you a type 1 scissors, with the V-crossings for the diamond in the turnout curves. However, it is much easier to construct a type 2 scissors, with the V-crossings for the diamond in extended crossing entry-straights on the turnouts. That produces a regular diamond with all its crossings of the same angle. To do that, start by extending the entry-straight on the first turnout. You can do that by mouse action in later Templot versions, which makes it much easier to see what you are doing and keep an eye on the radius. There is a bit of Jing video showing that mouse action in use at: http://screencast.com/t/q8zBFC9z and some notes about it on Old RMweb at: http://www.rmweb.co....=398910#p398910 regards, Martin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted January 14, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 14, 2012 But when it comes to making slips from crossovers and varying the length of rails etc I am lost. there is a very good video on the templot site showing how to make a slip, I got mine done first time and have made notes for next. They are at work so if needed I'll post here on Monday. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 there is a very good video on the templot site showing how to make a slip, I got mine done first time and have made notes for next. They are at work so if needed I'll post here on Monday. Thanks for the offer, next time I need one I will go through the tutorial again. You never know the penny might drop Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tender Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 there is a very good video on the templot site showing how to make a slip, I got mine done first time and have made notes for next. They are at work so if needed I'll post here on Monday. I have a diamond crossing on my layout design that needs converting to a slip so any additional notes to the video would be most welcome. Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNERGE Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Hiya The entire point kits are available now. Made to order but I don't think they are on colins site yet http://colincraig4mm.co.uk/ Don't forget I'd plates too! Cheers Jim Fantastic modelling. For those doing up to date layouts <g> note the new style of point id plate.. Edit.. A few notes on this job. Everything is new except the pulley and point drive rod. The 336 drive lug is new as is the 238/1 lost motion drive. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
darren01 Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Hi Some smashing track work here, this is the first go at building my own track ,did take me a few go's a doing the vee's but got there in the end . Darren Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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