Burkitt Posted July 14, 2011 Author Share Posted July 14, 2011 Thanks Bob, you just beat me to say the same thing. I'll add that the Kato Portram does have two separate powered bogies, so one should be enough for at least a four car train. Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobD Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 It might be possible to use a Tomytec TM05 chassis with a bit cut off each end. It would be necessary to check the dimensions, but it is theoretically very close for size. I have been playing with some 1959 tube stock and have been looking at the TM05 as a solution. Having said that, I do like Pauls solution as the motor bogie takes up very little room. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burkitt Posted July 14, 2011 Author Share Posted July 14, 2011 The TM05 or TM07 both look like they'd fit, though you'd fill the entire interior of the car. However they seem to be out of stock at all the suppliers I can find online, while Portrams are readily available from Gaugemaster among others. Gaugemaster also list the Portram chassis as available for about half the price of the complete vehicle, though it is not currently in stock. Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burkitt Posted August 27, 2011 Author Share Posted August 27, 2011 Following several more coats of paint and lots of sanding I thought I'd post another couple of pics to show how the 95 stock is getting on. The rough surface of the printed plastic seems to have been mostly smoothed out by the paint and sanding. Luckily the details have not got lost under the paint, despite being only 0.1mm deep. The ends still look a bit rougher, but since the front will be painted red getting the white perfect is not so important as for the sides. Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGN Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 Burkitt - This is amazing stuff. I'm VERY interested in the same process for producing some models fo otherwise unobtainable locomotive types (and I suspect i may have some of the same things in mind as Southernboy). Have I understood correctly here though - you have a CAD package which enables you to produce computerised 3-D image files; and you then send these image files to a company called Shapeways who turn them out as models of whatever it is you have drawn in the CAD package? If so ... that's incredibly useful! Could you post full contact details for these Shapeways people?? And when you've got the stock finished, I trust you're planning to write a piece on it for either the N Gauge Journal or Grahame's "Nspirations" magazine. This is, after all, a TRULY "Nspirational" piece of work you're doing! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burkitt Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 Thanks PGN, Your understanding of the process is quite correct. I designed the model using Sketchup, a free CAD program available from Google, which can be downloaded from http://sketchup.google.com/ . It is very easy to learn, and with some practice can be used to create complex models like the tube train and Enviro 400 bus , but does have some limitations in making very complex curved shapes. The complete model is then exported from Sketchup in Collada format (.dae). The model is then converted to the STL format which is used for 3D printing using a program called Meshlab http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/. I then use Netfabb http://www.netfabb.com/ to get rid of any errors which would stop the model being printable, and scale it down from full size to N. Finally it can be uploaded to Shapeways http://www.shapeways.com/ for printing. There are a variety of materials available for printing, with different levels of detail possible, qualities of surface finish and cost, all of which are listed on the material selector page http://www.shapeways.com/materials/. For the 95 stock I am using Frosted Ultra Detail, which can take details down to 0.1mm and has a very smooth surface for a printed model. As you say, I think that 3D printing will be the "next big thing" in railway modelling. The level of detail possible and quality of finish has improved rapidly over the past few years and looks like it will keep on getting better. Also, my understanding is that the current prices are largely determined by the cost of using the machines for the time taken to print the model, rather than raw material costs, so as the technology matures prices should hopefully fall considerably. With regards to writing up the project for publication, I'm not actually a member of the N gauge society, but I'd be happy to write an article if anyone asks. Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGN Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 Thank you again for that wonderfully clear explanation. I'm going to have to take a bit of time getting my head round that, but I'm sure I'll manage. For me it's not the ability to create complex curves that is the thing, but the ability to create one-off (or two or three-off) models of prototypes that aren't in huge demand and so wouldn't interest the mainstream manufacturers. My mind's already running along the lines of a LSWR A12 "Jubilee" 0-4-2, printed in silver for weight and running on a Dapol 14xx chassis. With any luck, the relatively simple lines of pre-grouping steam locomotives will make them idea candidates for learning how to do CAD ... well, that's what I'm trying to persuade myself to believe, anyway! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
delamaize Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Hello everyone, I ordered one of the driving coaches. I am an american living in germany, and I make it a habit to get at least one piece of equipment from each country I visit. For Britan, I choose this. I am planning on doing a full consist, but to keep my wife happy, I am only going to oder one a month. My plan is to power it with the Tomytec TM05 or TM06 chassis. I am aware that I will loose the interior and underbody details, but I am planing on salvaging as much as I can from the included under body and add it to the power chassis. Another option I am going to look at is actually adapting the included under body to accept the TM05/06 chassis componants. I will post progress here. One question I did have, where would be a good source for wheels and axels for the unpowered coaches here in europe? Thanks, Delamaize Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burkitt Posted September 14, 2011 Author Share Posted September 14, 2011 Delamaize, I'll be interested to see the TM05/TM06 chassis fitted to the driving car, if you could post your progress here. It would be good to know there is a cheaper power option than the Portram motors. For wheels I'm using the Parkside Dundas 5.1mm sold disc type http://www.parksided...DAS_WHEELS.html, I'm sure they will post overseas. I don't know whether any of the European manufacturers produce any suitable wheels - they need to be a bit smaller than for most N scale rolling stock - but something designed for very low flat cars, roll-on-roll-off lorry transporters, or trams may be the right size. Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardTPM Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Ironically Parkside first produced those for me back in 1990 when I was doing the Jubilee Line promotional model tube trains! They did 5.1mm dia. before, but only with curly spokes! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
delamaize Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Delamaize, I'll be interested to see the TM05/TM06 chassis fitted to the driving car, if you could post your progress here. It would be good to know there is a cheaper power option than the Portram motors. For wheels I'm using the Parkside Dundas 5.1mm sold disc type http://www.parksided...DAS_WHEELS.html, I'm sure they will post overseas. I don't know whether any of the European manufacturers produce any suitable wheels - they need to be a bit smaller than for most N scale rolling stock - but something designed for very low flat cars, roll-on-roll-off lorry transporters, or trams may be the right size. Paul Paul, Thanks for the link to the wheel manufacture. One question I have; are these wheel sets sold like the american prototype where one is consitered 2 wheels and an axel, usually assembled? Or the wheel individual, and I have to provide my own axels. I will have to do some mesurements on some of my American stuff, but I am thinking that replacement metal American wheels from a company called "Atlas" may work also. EDIT: I was able to find the diameter of said atlas wheels on their website. They mesusure out to 5.23mm. I have some of these wheels in my parts bin, I will check them against the unpowered coach when I order it. Link to the Atlas wheels on thier site: https://secure.atlas...=9022133&eq== Link to the Atlas wheels on on of my perfered retailers site: http://www.modeltrai...p/atl-22020.htm the biggest issue I can see at this point is going to be the overall axel leignth from point to point as compaired to the parkside wheels. thanks, Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burkitt Posted September 14, 2011 Author Share Posted September 14, 2011 Mike, you are correct, each wheel set consists of two wheels attached to the axle. Parkside Dundas also sell the brass bearing cups (third item on this page http://www.parksidedundas.co.uk/acatalog/PARKSIDE_DUNDAS__ACCESSORIES_.html ) which the axles ride in. Atlas very likely sell suitable wheels for the tube cars. Having had a look for European manufacturers earlier today, I think it is possible that the wheels of the Arnold "Rollende Landstraße/Rolling Road" ( http://www.ontracks.co.uk/index.php?page=product&prodID=28635&catID=408) would be about the right size, but I cannot find them available as spares. Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
delamaize Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 Hello Guys! I may have found another powering option for the 1995 stock. http://www.ebay.com/...=item1c1f007e16 Not sure who the manufacture is, but I have yet to get a bad product from "Plaza Japan." I am still waiting for my driving coach, once I receive it, I will assess if this chassis might provide a usable option. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 I'll second delamaize's suggestion, looking at the chassis is has two independent power bogies which would make adjusting the distance between them so much easier! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardTPM Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 That's an interesting chassis, not one I've seen before. It looks like the bogie sideframe detail (which stops the Kato 'shorty' being usable - I know, I've tried!) doesn't play any significant role in the pick-up or structure. At the very least it should be possible to trim them down in height to clear the low floor/chassis of a tube train. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burkitt Posted October 4, 2011 Author Share Posted October 4, 2011 Delamaize, many thanks for posting that chassis. It looks very promising for powering N scale tube stock, and considerably cheaper than the Portrams too. Bernard, you mention that the Kato "Shorty" chassis is not useable. I had been considering using it for another project - can you confirm that it is not possible to remove the sideframes? Two 1995 stock trailer cars have also been delivered from Shapeways. The quality of the cleaning of the model by Shapeways seems to have improved considerably since the first DM, there is none of the yellow wax and the plastic looks almost clear. I have added much more detail to the underframes for the new vehicles, though this is difficult to see without any paint on. Two more updated DMs are also on order, so I will be able to put together a slightly shortened four car train. Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardTPM Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 The problem with the Kato shorty is that the sideframes hold the pick-up bearings in place. Whilst it is possible to cut away some of the detail, because of the gaps in the moulded detail around the axlebox/spring units any residual frame that can actually do the job of holding the bearings in place has to leave in place the area above the axleboxes, just where get in the way in tube stock. It may be possible to design an alternative bogie frame where the axleboxes are supported from below, but because the strips go up through slots it is still quite tight at the critical area i.e. around the underframe/lower body area. Those other bogies should have no such problem as they appear to have inside bearings. That makes the widest point the wheel faces (or rather the swing of the wheel faces). That saves around 4mm or more in width over the Kato chassis with the plastic sideframes in place. The 'shorty' is fine for the Tamper I did (and I really must revise that so it's a straightforward fit) as the bogies are completely exposed, rather than half under a floor as it the case with tube trains. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kris Posted October 5, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 5, 2011 Those bodies do look good. Does the warping come out of the underframe? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burkitt Posted October 5, 2011 Author Share Posted October 5, 2011 Many thanks for your detailed reply Bernard. Kris, the underframes are fairly flexible as they are basically thin floors, with all the strength in the body. Once the two parts are put together the body holds the underframe completely straight. Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burkitt Posted October 10, 2011 Author Share Posted October 10, 2011 Having sprayed and sanded coats of white paint to the point that I am happy with the surface of the 95 stock driving motor, I have now started adding the other colours. There don't seem to be any exact colours available as enamels, so I'm using the closest matches from the Humbrol and Revell ranges. The blue is done, but a few more coats of red are needed, then the grey front and rear panels, roof, and black details. I have ordered a complete four car train of a later, slightly improved design, so this DM is serving as a testbed for finishing and painting methods. Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Revolution Ben Posted October 10, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 10, 2011 Paul That's looking really nice. As there are no "accurate" colours available, I'd be tempted to try using suitable Halford's car spray paints. There are plenty of strong blues and reds - and they given a very smooth finish! cheers Ben A. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burkitt Posted October 11, 2011 Author Share Posted October 11, 2011 Thanks Ben. I'll probably use spray paint for the four car train, as you say it does produce a smoother finish. Do you know if the Halfords sprays are compatible with enamel undercoats? If not I'll either have to get Halfords undercoats too or go for enamel sprays. Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Revolution Ben Posted October 11, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 11, 2011 Hi Paul, These days I tend to use Halford's primers (grey and white) for almost everything since they are easy to use and give a very smooth finish. I've not tried their topcoats on enamels, but I believe they are acrylic based so should be OK. Easy to test on an offcut of plastic I guess! cheers Ben A. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burkitt Posted October 11, 2011 Author Share Posted October 11, 2011 Thanks again Ben. One final question, how well does the Halfords primer sand? The 3D printed parts have a slightly "stepped" surface and need quite a bit of spraying and sanding to get a get them smooth. Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Revolution Ben Posted October 11, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 11, 2011 Hi Paul In my experience the Halford's primers sand no better or worse than any other primer... cheers Ben A. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.